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Just scroll down the page for the individual tires. Looks like they have the weights on each page now. Wish they had one page with all widths , size and weights. Thatd be easiestQuote:
Originally Posted by Ted Striker
https://bike.michelin.com/en/product...rock-r2-enduro
Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
Thanks for input everyone - I’m not beholden to maxxis but its hard enough to understand differences in their line up that throwing in all the multitude of other brands and tire options quickly becomes a bit overwhelming.
Nope - but realizing putting an Ardent front might lead in that direction - that idea is out.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Yep - when she moved to the trance she immediately commented on the perceived “sluggishness”. Conversation lead to tires and tradeoffs. Predictable is good but she just doesn’t ride at a speed or with enough bike angulation to require or even engage the side knobs on more aggressive tire profiles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
She doesn’t seem to have issue with flats or ripping sidewalls like I do so regular EXO is probably going to be fine - but EXO+ is only 50grams extra so might be whatever is available.Quote:
Originally Posted by funkendrenchman
Even though I’ve never actually ridden either I’m liking the Dissector/Rekon suggestion. Seems like a compromise that could work well for her - keep the grip up front, bit faster rolling in the rear, not so different as to unbalance traction, both more designed for our dry conditions, both save weight and roll faster than current tire.
Based on what you're saying, another combo (non-Maxxis) could be something like a Hans Dampf / Nobby Nic (or Rock Razor). Their tires are fucking light, usually like 50-100g lighter than similar Maxxis. If she used a lot of body position, I'd never recommend a HD up front (it drifts very easily, but very predictably). Ditto for their rear tires. Order from ze Germans to get them cheap.
+1 on hans dampf Nobby nic combo. I put that on my wife's bike for many years. Fast, grip, and good damping. Expensive but it's only money
My new bike came with a DHR II 3C EXO that appears to be leaking like a sieve. I had assumed that I had torn this light tire, but soapy water reveals that there are small leaks all over the sidewalls and near the beads.
I'm currently running regular Stan's in there. Is it worth trying a different sealant (like Stan's Race) that might do better at sealing things up, or is this tire defective?
On another note, I picked up some Continental tires for cheap (Der Baron/Trail King) that I'm running on my hardtail. My past experience with Continental was that they were quite leaky when tubeless, but I followed their instructional video (https://youtu.be/1HfULR0PnZE) this time, which suggests rubbing the entire inside of the tire with sealant prior to mounting. They are now holding air better than any other tubeless tire I've tried.
I would like to hear peep's experiences with Stan's Race as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
I've heard Stan's Race is strong stuff, overkill and making tire changes (breaking the seal) extremely difficult. However I'm hearing on road tubeless Stan's Race may be more of a thing due to the high pressures. My experience with Road tubeless shows that regular Stan's works ok up to about 80PSI (I like about 90 on 28s) but anything over (I suppose depending on the size of the hole) blows through.
I suppose for both mtb and road, different mixes of Regular and Race may be the solution...or adding glitter?
Continental sealant for many years - no complaints. Even sealed up my wife's shitty stock Nobby Nics which wept sealant through the casing like mad.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1500_.jpg
Put me in the anti-stan's camp as well. Too ammonia-y. I've had good luck with orange seal.
I have usedd orange which IME worked pretty much the same as stan'sQuote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
the rubbing fluid inside the tire ^^ sounds interesting
my aggressor leaked fluid thru the sidewalls and lost a little air, so I got a new DHRII for Moab, it seems to hold air better but I still see a little fluid bleeding out and after a week at Moab all the fluid leaks attract the red dust ... something new for me
all 10 of us were setup tubeless, nobody got a flat or had any breakdowns which suprised me
I just went from Dissector/Dissector to Dissector/Rekon back to Dissector/Dissector. Ignore my previous suggestion and stick with Dissectors on both ends. The Rekon just don't have enough grip and the Dissector actually rolls pretty well for being a grippy 3C tire.Quote:
Originally Posted by dcpnz
X2 or 3, or whatever we're on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Striker
Interesting. I had noticed this on mine too. Same tire.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
I may try Conti sealant. Just ordered some Mountain Kings for wife's new (to her) bike and have to mount them up. Conti obviously recommends their own sealant, but if people think it's better than Stans, maybe I'll just switch mine over too.
IMO the big question is how much air do you lose ?
I used stans in Nevegals back in the day and that tire would lose 10lbs over night every night
I'm getting the weeping but I'm not losing much if any air,
I didnt really have to add air in a week of hard riding
if you don't really lose much air I wouldn't worry so much
Good Q. I'll do an overnight test. But I want to say I'll lose 4-5 PSI in the garage if I go a couple days between rides.
A little weeping through the sidewalls is OK when the tire is new but should stop after they set up. Weeping near the bead (or losing air through the valve hole) is usually a sign that the tire/rim fit isn't tight enough and you may need another wrap of rim tape. I stick with regular Stan's.
I had the same experience with a Conti. It's on my spare/loaner bike now. I'm going to try that. Getting tired of pumping it up and injecting stans.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
I don't lose any pressure on my Maxxis. I ran Panaracer's on my old bike for years and never had any sidewall seepage. I don't think for any tire meant to be tubeless should sidewall seepage to be considered normal.
Wild Rock'R2's don't lose much air over time.
Just sayin'...
:D
tubeless tires used to weigh 200-ish grams more than the same tire in a non-tubeless versions because there was more rubber in the sidewalls so there is a weight cost to a tubeless tire
but i don't know if there are even many non-tubeless tires out there ?
my leaky Nevegals were non tubeless, very fast very light but man they leaked
10 psi in about 8 hours (pumped it up to 30 in the morning, was at 20 went I went to ride after work).Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
GTFO with this "Nevegal" talk - those tires are fucking USELESS.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
:D
Without the nevegal we would all be on XC tires. Know your roots.
I would pinch-flat those fuckers just by looking at them askance. Thought originally it was me... but no, it was the Nevegals. :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
[QUOTE=skaredshtles;5770398]GTFO with this "Nevegal" talk - those tires are fucking USELESS.
Yabut 12 years ago nevegals were the shit, light fast rolling good traction, Nevegals won an MBA shoot out, i rode them against buddies bikes and i would be rolling up on them hitting the brakes or hitting my buddy
Tires have got a lot better and now Nevegals suck
context eh
[QUOTE=XXX-er;5770433]Nope. They sucked in 2010 when they came stock on my Giant Reign. I demo'd a Reign in Moab and took it down Porc Rim - I got THREE FUCKING SNAKEBITES within the 1st mile of the "lunch rock" overlook. WTF. I got a flat almost every time I rode when I got my Reign here in town, and that promptly ended when I ditched those worthless pieces of shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
As always, though, YMMV. :D
How much air were you running ^^ and have you considered going on a diet?
i was a real asshole i would claim you are a hack
yes I did porcupine last week and i was amazed nobody got hurt and no flats