so sad to hear that......Quote:
Originally Posted by uppernotmaster
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so sad to hear that......Quote:
Originally Posted by uppernotmaster
While this thread has my attention, here's a shot of Joe, who worked for me one day....we brushed out 8 cottonwoods for WM (waste Mgt) prfepping for craning the sticks last Tuesday. This is his first ride on my new tool (toy?!), the "Wraptor", which is a powered ascender. This old man loves it's 100 feet per minute effortless ride into the treetops. A great energy saver it is..let me get more work done for sure.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8443/7...e1d9f461_o.jpg
You, sir, are the king of stoke in this thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbtree
Appreciate the info update on newer saws. Do you port your own saws?
cool story in Santa Cruz Sentinel
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Attachment 120830
can't embed videos - I'm too dumb
No sir. I've had four or five different builders massage at least 10 saws over the last 10 years. My youtube site shows some of them in action.....rbtree.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
also, some sexy advertising here:
http://youtu.be/_k1lAf_V5Uk
Paul, the designer, set his pole dancing wife and three of her friends up with Wraptors, and skimpy outfits for a fun ride and video......
So, umm....what is the QUIETEST that you can get a gasser saw to be, and how?
Would like to get a 355, say, as quiet or quieter than a 35cc home number (I would be willing to give up some power)
Anyone ever make a home silencer?
rideit.....I go the opposite way. My saw are LOUD. Why do you want quiet saws? For stealth side country stash cutting? If so, all you need is a small saw as you're only cutting 1-4" material. Get a toy saw and go to work.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Great job ride - now we have BATFE spooks lurking.
Why don't you just blow up trees with IEDs?
...and since this thread is many years old - my opinion on Huskies has turned 180.
Heh, probably the best small-engine promo ever...except for the music, but that can be turned down. :yourock:Quote:
Originally Posted by rbtree
Hah, no Jer, not really for covert ops. We will be working in an area near a popular trail making a new lolipop, and would rather work without too many curious distractions.
I have too much on my plate with sanctioned trail these days....
rideit, you could do it like the exotic lumber poachers do in some protected forests. Make an exhaust manifold which will accept a flexible tube/hose, and run the exhaust into a bucket of water. It will no doubt lower your horse power, and guys with pricey ported saws would cringe, but it is supposed to be pretty quiet.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
I was thinking of adapting one of my spark arrested 2 stroke dirt bike silencers to my Husky, mostly for stealth trail work and river cleaning behind peoples houses on a local kayak run. The hose exhaust trick would work really well on a river, as long as forest service people don't catch you venting 2 stroke fumes into a water environment.
Hah, Jethro, ya beat me to that.....
Here in the land of big trees, the PNWet, an oft overlooked tree is the big leaf maple, the largest maple species in the world. A genetically figured big leaf maple can have wood that is valued as highly as ANY exotic wood known to man, as it is used for musical instruments. The figure called quilt is the most prized, for its 3 dimensional bubble like look. It can be seen on many super cool electric guitars. A 2.5 board foot piece of the highest grade can go for $100 or more!. The maple thieves use that exact technique that you described.
http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/hardw...aple_wood.html
Holy fuck, the woods on that site give me wood. I need some of that for clocks n' such....
Now you know where and how. Happy cutting.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
any good recs on packs for carrying chainsaw, fuel and bar oil? I know of the Dakine Builders pack....
Never used one, but googling fireline+packs+chainsaw brings up some solutions:Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnjam
http://www.wildlandwarehouse.com/wwc..._Packs_C68.cfm. <-scroll down.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TRU...ACK-TRUE-8PYJ6
I was a little disappointed that Mystery Ranch doesn't make one.
back in the old fogey days on the trail crew I used to drag around a stoopid contraption made out of an old frame pack with a wooden sleeve for the bar and a place to strap on a coupla Dolmars. Can't recommend it.....
so glad I borrowed a splitter...
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/a...w/DSC07708.jpg
processed about 6 cords in the last 3 weeks
thanks for the pack rec's....thinking I might go with my old meat pack frame and see if I can get the saw to fit on there with my other gear too.
Any good recommendations on a good saw to cut brush with (mainly buck/alderbrush) ski area thicket. I currently have a little 14" bar Homelite 3314, which has been OK, but not reliable in starting. Chain keeps falling off, etc. My buddies have Huskys and Stihls, but not sure which models.
Bungee cords are your friend.Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnjam
There are a few recommendations in this thread. Reader's Digest version: Get a Stihl or Husky depending on which local dealer is best, get a pro saw if you can afford it but a weekend warrior model will suffice, and you probably want a smaller one like a Stihl 261 or a Husky 339. Homelites suck bad, but you should learn to tune your saw and adjust/file your chain.Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnjam
Just bought a Stihl 250, nice tool.
Gas or electric? I used an electric splitter to split all this winters wood for the local ski lodge and it worked pretty good
it runs off the gas generator and is cheaper/simpler than having another engine to mess with on a gas powered splitter and it was easier to bring in by chopper than a gas powered splitter
i have owned a stihl 026 for the past 12 years excellent saw absolutely no problems.
gas splitters are the only way to go. i picked up a 15 ton splitter at princess auto a couple of years ago, the first few times i used it were some of the happiest moments of my life.
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firewood sculpture
www.woodheat.org is a good site for newbies
Holy shit mike, that is freakin AWESOME!
If you're going to be using the saw for more than just an hour or 2 a day, and will be hike through the forest with it, I would recommend getting a pro saw. They are much more expensive and have more power (yes read Louder) but they are a pound or 2 lighter than the home/medium duty saws, for example 11 lbs for a Stihl 362 (pro model) vs a 13lbs for a less powerful 391 (midrange saw) that pound difference may not sound like a lot until you're holding it above your head for several hours. I am told Husqvarna's pro models are just as durable as stihl's while being even lighter however I don't have much if any experience with that brand.
But if spending $700-800 on a saw still sounds crazy, the Stihl 291 is a great durable saw that will last forever if take care of.
As for packs and covers, TrueNorth Makes a pack for carrying saw or you could just use a cloth chain scabbard
http://www.firecache.com/prodinfo.asp?number=763-92001
http://www.nationalfirefighter.com/p...oducts_id=1506
Sedro Woolley man killed with chainsaw
A Sedro Woolley man has been arrested, accused of attacking another man with a chainsaw and killing him.
Monday, Skagit County Sheriff's deputies found the body of a 52-year-old man inside his home on Blank Road.
He suffered chainsaw wounds to the head, detectives said.
Tuesday morning, the 34-year-old suspect, who lived on the property with the victim, was arrested.
Detectives said the suspect and victim were likely engaged in a dispute prior to the incident.
Skagit County Sheriff's deputies continue to investigate.
I just bought an old Stihl 020 AVP top handle model, probably from the 70s, for clearing moto and mtn bike trails. It has a 14" bar and no kickback protection, so it is pretty compact. $53 on Ebay. I thoroughly cleaned it and took it apart, but did not take the head off since it feels like it has a lot of compression, and the cylinder looks good through the exhaust port. After I reassembled it I shot a squirt of premix down the carb and it fired right up. The problem is I cannot get it to idle with the choke off, and if I open the choke it is like full throttle. Even with full choke it wants to rev to the moon. I am thinking air leak, but I cannot find one. If there carb issues with a saw this old, I would expect blocked passages in the carb, but the problem seems to be too much air/fuel. Any advice? I work on my two stroke KTM's, RMK, and Husky and skil saws, but I have never experienced carb tuning like this saw has.
Just recently came to be the owner of a brand new Stihl MS 362 25" bar. Is she a good one?
a good saw
Any Thoughts on selling price both here and in the real world?
MSRP with a 25" bar is $699.00
Be hella careful with a top handle saw they Fuck up a lot of peopleQuote:
Originally Posted by Jethro
Not to worry, I can't get the little bugger to run properly. I took it mostly apart (left the head on) and cleaned everything. I reassembled it, and I cannot get it to idle. It goes to a full scream with no throttle and full choke. Symptomatic of an air leak, but I cannot seem to find it. If I cannot get it running properly I might search for a newer model, but the top handle arborist saws are really expensive. I am aware of the dangers of a saw like this though. thanks for the heads up.Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyg
Likely the carb needs adjustment - work the idle screw until it idles, then:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jethro
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...-Chainsaw-help
What Bob said.
If you can't fix it take it to a shop. That saw sounds worthy of some professional help.
I have a top handle one made by 'echo' it's a decent little little saw... Takes a bit to warm up as the muffler also has a cat in it but it does the job, has a 3 or 5 year warranty has a chain brake and is a fraction of the cost.
It's definitely not as nice as the sthil but it's not like it's running all day.
I split my muffle removed the cat and tuned accordingly and it runs way better
The 362 is a nice saw. On the smaller side of Stihl's pro saws. People seem to think the 390 (mid grade) is an upgrade from the 362, but it's not.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaHeel
What kind of condition is it in? If it's not nearly new or nearly dead you'd be looking at:
TGR - $350
IRL = $400
Trade in - $300
Did he use a Sthil or a Husky?Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWbrit
Could have been either.Quote:
Originally Posted by irul&ublo
If that had been a poulan, this would probably be aggravated assault. A homelite might have knocked it down to disorderly conduct.