::: :::Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
They bring me a little PTSD. I assume they do the same for you...
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::: :::Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
They bring me a little PTSD. I assume they do the same for you...
I’m looking for a Rocky Mountain Shock Pivot Cup extractor, or a viable work around. Could even swing by a shop that has one in the SLC vacinity?
Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
I am using this one, they also make them in clear and blue.
I have the Park Tool suspension bearing press kit. It includes cups for all bearing sizes. In a pinch you can do it with some ¼-20 all thread, a couple nuts, a socket and a washer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Canada1
Thanks! I’ll walk him through how to do it with the all thread. He is too reliant on shop tools!Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
The Alt-Alt bearing press kit is shockingly good for the price. The shear number of sizes of both solid plugs and open cylinders makes it really easy to find the perfect configuration for a bike. I find myself reaching for it over some fancy Wheels Mfg presses since it's so complete. The only downside to it is that it doesn't address the need for blind pullers in some locations.
I couldn't resist. You can never have too many hex tools....
Attachment 419639
I was surprised with the nice tool pouch that was included.
Do you think the 8 will stand up to cranking a pedal loose?
Goddamnit Dee that's the exact tool I didn't know I needed.
Edit. I talked myself off the edge once I saw the 50 dollar price. But those would be quite nice for occasional situations.
It’s burly enough, just a bit short for leverage.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Attachment 419657
How tightly are you guys putting on pedals? I've always just put them on with a regular length wrench, to or sometimes a 3-way if they take a 6mm. In nearly 30 years of working on bikes I've never had one loosen up on its own. I know the torque spec is high, but I'm not sure why. Enlighten me.
Pedals are reverse threaded to the direction of your crank rotation. That’s so they won’t work loose, but it also means that they naturally tighten over time. Getting them loose to remove them can be a thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
As long as they are installed nice and tight they’ll just keep getting tighter. That said, I’ve seen them put on too loose on a mtn bike or two, and the vibrations have let them back out till thread was showing. Terrifying to find. Not on my bike but I reminder finding that on a friend’s that I noticed on a ride.
I just get them to snug, then give a little bit pressure more. I'm sure what I do is less than the torque setting is, but they've never worked loose since the reverse thread. I ride flat pedals, so fucking hate having to hold onto a crank arm and yard on a wrench, sometimes slipping and hitting pedal pins.
I've seen a pedal back-out on the trail for some random intermediate rider , it fucked the threads up when it fell off
So I threaded the pedal in from the back of the crank arm to straighten the threads which then allowed me to thread the pedal in from the front side
Dry pedals, rock strikes, inserts deforming from round, galvanic bonding, owner tightening the wrong way with a 12’ pipe.
The problem is never going in, it’s coming out.
For Cranks and pedals, I like to use a PBSwiss socket on my long Snapon ⅜ ratchet.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Attachment 419669
Thats a PBSwiss hex key for comparison. Haven't met a combination that wont easily remove. For the rare pedal that has flats and no hex in the shaft, I use a Pedros pedal wrench.
Attachment 419670
I've actually pulled pedals that where properly tightend right out of crank arms before, but those where some shitty E-bike Shimano cranks from their first gen and seemed to be made of butter instead of metal.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
On older cranks, I like to use my Park Pedal taps to clean out the threads. A thread chaser would be better, but I dont know anyone that makes those in the 9/16-20 L/R threads pedals use.
Attachment 419671
ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use anti seize on pedal threads!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
For AL to AL, the standard grey AL based anti-seize is correct. For any TI Componets, the proper stuff is the Copper based stuff also sold as "high temp". For metal into Carbon applications such as some stems, etc, a Teflon Anti-Seize is best. I pretty much use the Teflon based stuff for all of my stuff these days, its really good. Also Anti-Sieze is some messy shit thats tough to clean off (by design) so I like to use a syringe to apply it.
Attachment 419672
No kidding. How many times have you had to deal with a pedal that was absolutely CRANKED on cause someone thought they were taking it off?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Over the top to the back to remove. Over the top to the back man.
I hope thats not what your wife says... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
I was just out on the trail when I helped some random couple and i didnt even get my superman cape dirty
My tool of choice for pedals is a Pedros T handle pro. They don't make them anymore and they look like this (not my photo) - they are quite nice if you ever run across any NOS, but the identifying words rub off quickly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
Attachment 419673
I've been a pretty big fan of some of the older Pedro's stuff. It just seems that the newer stuff and especially Park's newer stuff just isn't as good of quality anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
I like my Beta t-handles a lot. At some point I need to pick up a ball end set, but they are hard to find for a reasonable price.
You guys convinced me to get a set of the Wera hex keys. They are damn nice. I might get some tape and color code the Betas to match.
Attachment 419674
I'd use heat shrink.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
Same. Never had to do anything crazy to remove them either, but I mostly work on my bikes which are never in a disaster state. I think some folks in this thread should be working on F1 cars instead of bikes. Untapped potential. This stuff doesn't have to be complicated unless you want it to be.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
I legit enjoy having a "what to buy" source should I feel compelled to get the nicest tool possible for bike work, but holy fuck there is some Patrick Bateman level shit in here. I'm half expecting to see a recommended 10 step process for putting on nitrile gloves. "I first apply a dry release agent..."
Does anyone know where my missing 2mm T handle is? Yes, I’ve checked the bottom of the sock drawer
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Of course you would!Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
That would be pretty sweet. If you can find the right color...
And I agree on Pedro's quality. Used to be quite good. I don't buy Pedro's tool now. Buy my old ones, like cone wrenches, chain breaker, chain whip, cassette nuts, T handles, etc have held up really well. Their screwdrivers, however, kinda suck (even the older ones.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
Clearly it's with my Bondhus 5mm and 7/32. When you find them can you send them along?
And I have a couple extra random 2mm T handles to send in return...
Whoa whoa whoa. 10 steps? We wouldn't want to rush something like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by North
Nobody in the industry makes a pedal chase, so you need to make your own....Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
Find a trashed set of pedals that have a good strong hardened steel spindle with wrench flats.
Strip the all the pedal stuff, and make a chase out of the threads on the end of the spindle. Cut a few perpendicular slots across the threads, and you have a good thread chase.
I made some years ago when I had to make a chase from a crank puller.
But where did those chasers go?
I must have lent them to someone in the days before my tool sign out list was created. (its just a dry erase board saying Frank has my spare Digital Lezyne shock pump)
I will make a new set! Photos to come.
FYI I have the Hozan pedal taps. Their Japanese steal is so good, and they have a nice alignment head to make sure your die is lined up before your cutting teeth engage. I wish I had a vendor/discount to more of Hozans tools.
Attachment 419688
Gunder inspired photo ;)
Timely pedal talk here. I am the owner of a left (NDS) GX crank with a Canfield Mountain pedal spindle with rounded 8mm hex fitting. Tried hammering torx bits, Wera hex+ key. Recently drilled with a 9/16th bit and attempted to use an Irwin straight flute bolt extractor. Bent it, although this was foreseeable as it was way too small diameter.
I'm looking to try again, this time with bigger traditional bolt extractors. Not sure if any readily available extractors are better than any others. I have been using tri-flo as a penetrating oil because that's what I have. Worth using actual penetrating oil?
I really want to salvage this crankset to use on my gravel commuter. Any ideas?
I should make some pedal thread chasers... just need to find a good sacrificial pair at some point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Those Hozan taps look really nice.
Ive always found that I have had the best luck using heat with any stuck bolt (provided its not in / near a composite part). Get it really warm with a blow torch, then any extraction method you use, will at least have a fighting chance.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigHerm
How much of the spindle is showing? I tend to be fairly low tech on this stuff, and my inclination would be to grind the spindle flat enough on each side to use a 24" adjustable crescent wrench on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigHerm
I can borrow my lady's torch, that's something I hadn't considered. All metal in the area.
All of the spindle is there, I just pulled the platform pedal off. That is a great idea though. I could file two flat spots and use my forearm length crescent. That sounds more likely to remove than some extractor digging into the fitting side.
Thanks, I am cautiously optimistic.
Left hand drill bit is my go to for stuck bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigHerm
If my mind is working correctly the Left hand crank (NDS) is left thread, so from the back side you would spin the axle counter clockwise to remove it.
A left hand drill bit spinning and cutting counterclockwise should catch/dig into the metal and magically unthread the the axle from the crank.
Ace Hardware sells individual Irwin Left Hand bits. Cost is reasonable for the quality. Small bits $9 to big bits $18.
I have a few bits for typical bike M4-M6 bolts.
I'm with him on the left-hand bits. I live in New England and used to do a lot of work on my own cars, so I've got a variety of stuck -fastener tools. If you can get a good angle at the bolt, the reverse-thread drilling usually works pretty well, especially with internal fasteners (allen and torx) that encourage the drill bit to stay in the right spot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app
Thanks again for the tips. Was able to get it out using a big left hand bit, specifically an Irwin EX4 that requires a 1/4" predrilled hole. I also filed down some flat spots for the crescent but was unsuccessful using that alone.
I cleaned and chased the threads with a good pedal and all appears fine with the crank threads.
If I ever find the guy that stripped the hex hole... oh wait 🤦♂️
Congrats!Quote:
Originally Posted by BigHerm
I too am a fan of Left hand bits, and have a full index of them.
Attachment 419721
However, I find that by themselves I have less than a 25% success rate unless the faster is fairly loose and just has an F'd head. My typical method is heat first, then drill with the correct size Left hand bit, then use a screw extractor.
Attachment 419722
I have several different types of screw extractors, however, I seem to have the most success with the screw extraction pliers, when there is something to grab, When there isn't, I then like to use the Eazypower Bladed screw extractor bits. They just seem to grab better than the various spiral styles.
I've been wanting to fire my mechanic for years, but nobody else works as cheap as he does, and he doesn't make me bring the bike (or truck) to him.Quote:
Originally Posted by BigHerm
Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app
My next project is now to remove the left hand bit from the damaged spindle. No vice so I am trying to hold the ground flat spots with an 11mm box wrench and the extractor with my crescent. May try to locate some vice grips for the spindle...
I really like Rennsteig Double Edge extractors. They bite really hard, and you can go either direction with them. I like this feature because with a stripped head sometimes you can get it to bite and tighten the bolt a bit, and then spin it the other way to remove it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
I have the Size 1 for M5 and M6, and a Size 2 for M8 and M10.
Really high quality tools, German engineering. It has a hardened tip and allows you to hammer it into your bolt without the fear of breaking it.
Believe it or not you can order them to your Home Depot store for +/-$13 each. I like to only order the bike size ones I need.
Attachment 419732
Attachment 419733