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Just wondering - have you tried an older Pike with a 2019+ Debonair shaft installed? I put one in a 2016 Pike and found the fork to feel really good, on par with more modern alternatives.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
In which other ways are the new Pikes "a lot" better? I would think that the minor tweaks to the chassis and damper would only be incremental improvements compared to the new air spring.
IMHO pegboard with tools is for a bike shop, where you're going to using those tools -- and only those tools -- all day long. Unless you have enough space to make your workbench a dedicated bike shop bench, I wouldn't put any tools on pegboard. That takes up a lot of wall space that can be used for other storage.Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
I have one drawer in my rollaway cabinet that holds all the dedicated bike tools, like cassette tools, chain whip, cone wrenches -- the stuff that does not really have a use for anything other than on a bike. Other drawers are sorted by what they hold: flathead screwdrivers, philips, standard wrenches, metric wrenches, etc.... there's a lot of non-bike-specific tools that are used on bikes, but also used for cars, household, etc. I wouldn't want to pull apart a metric set of wrenches just to segregate the bike-specific sizes -- I keep all the metric tools together.
Pegboards suck. If you really want to hang stuff, do nails into plywood.
But really, once I'm working on something, all the tools are just scattered on the bench. Storing them on the wall is less convenient and takes up more space. All of my stuff goes in drawers.
I haven't tried an upgraded pike, but yeah, the biggest difference is definitely the debonair spring. Newer dampers are noticeably better too though.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
I'm with Toast on this one. I have a pegboard but it's barely used. I have some stuff on there like a screwdriver rack that holds 25 screwdrivers, and some bulky items like a park headset press, and a few daily household tools like a utility knife, but mostly is unused. Right now the biggest things hanging on it are a 24" kids specialized frame and fork, about 3-4 different disc brake setups, a set of 10 year old ultegra shifter/brakes, a bunch of clamps, and a dartboard.
Scralph: In terms of setup I have a U shape one like this:
On one side a pretty bomber workbench about 8' long that also coverts to a waxing station with a wax shaving catcher for skis. On the workbench is a 4 drawer Kolbalt tool chest with nothing in it but bike tools. On top of that I keep my pedros portable tool box that has all the tools in it I need to travel with. Also on top is a truing stand, and on one side a vice. This is where the pegboard is.
On the opposite side I have a mechanics craftsman rolling tool chest - one of the 4 foot high ones. General tools mostly, plus all my old framing stuff, but also a whole drawer for drivers and bits, and another for bike specific tools like a tensionometer and headset setter, stuff like that.
On the third side it's all metal shelves. Not all tools, but a lot of it is, including hand power tools. Also have about 20 shoeboxes on the shelves, and each is full of spares and parts of a different bike component - extra brakes in one, crank parts in another, seatposts, shifters, cassettes, bottom brackets etc etc. - they each get their own box. Also a bunch of those plastic boxes with tons of little compartments full of different bike small parts.
In the middle is the bike workstand.
Works really well for me. Biggest problem is that, as Toast mentioned above, I just scatter tools all over the place while I work. My shop friends tend to be really good at putting tools back in their place. I am the opposite of that. Wrench, leave shit everywhere, pick it back up when done. So I like a lot of surfaces to put stuff on.
Space is currently not a problem in my extra-deep 1-car garage that we don't need for parking a car. I've got two 6' workbenches side by side (one nice, one ghetto, but I only have extra-bright lighting above the nice one) and a decent amount of wall space.
I bought 3 sections of 16" x 32" horizontal steel pegboard from amazon - "Wall Control" brand which is slotted and also has conventional holes. So I can mix and match various hangers, shelves, hooks etc. I am a fan of the Japanese 5s philosophy and probably once the pegboard is set up with a solid workflow I'll do sharpie outlines so it's very clear what tools go where and which ones are "missing" aka in use aka on top of my 20 ft2 of workbench surface somewhere.
I also have a ton of shelving space where I plan to use open 10" wide bins for spare parts and stuff, but it's in a different part of my garage so the idea is to grab whatever parts are needed and bring them over to the benches for the project of the day.
Right now I'm kind of thinking commonly used hand tools on the pegboards and specialty tools, drill bits, sockets, etc in the drawers. I would love to be able to hang my drill/driver on the pegboard since that one gets used so much.
2/3nd on plywood wall w nails and shelves as you see fit.
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I use a small peg board for the 10 or so tools I'm always reaching for - cable cutters, BB tools, crank puller, cassette tool, etc. I recently picked up a large roller tool cabinet for everything else.
A couple random shop storage tips that I find handy - I use a magnetic knife strip on the wall right in front of my bench to hold L shaped allen wrenches and torx bits. Just grab one and stick it back on when you're done.
https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Powe...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I also picked up a small parts organizer/drawer to keep the countless small bikes parts organized - ferrules, end caps, tubeless valves, bolts, etc. etc. This has routine bike work much easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-101...n%2C181&sr=1-2
Its remarkable how many tiny bike parts you accumulate with multiple bikes.
Fuck Amazon.Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio
How does everyone feel about progressive coil springs?
Cane Creek just launched them for trail riding. I have a coil shock for my yeti which didn't work amazingly (due to linear nature etc) but if the ramp in the spring works it could be better. I had also heard that progressive springs don't really work on mtbs for whatever reason.
https://www.vitalmtb.com/news/press-...ine-Shock,3261
Works on my moto and my truck. Why wouldn't it work on a bicycle?
Fine on more linear suspension designs, less fine if the mechanism is too progressive for it.
The MRP progressive spring feels great on my Transition Patrol (a fairly linear bike).Quote:
Originally Posted by nortonwhis
That sounds like 3/3 positive which is incredibly weird for TGR!
Maybe it was variable rate springs that didn't work. I vaguely remember discussion that some kind of spring didn't work like they thought it would.
maybe certain suspension needs a certain spring also it looks to me like all the current yetis (except for the the 165 ) are designed for an airshock ?
Did you put it on a DHX2 or the MRP Hazzard?Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
MRP Hazzard replacing stock DPX2Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
I haven't really ridden it enough to give a full review but I haven't had a bottom out yet. I also haven't done anything really stupid that should result in a bottom out, but as far as I can tell, the progressive spring is doing it's job.
It's massively better over small bumps and square edge hits. That was noticeable immediately. It's a bit worse pedaling and obviously weighs a fuckton.
MRP and DVO are apparently both making coils that will fit shorter-travel trunnion frames now... makes me *really* tempted to get one for my '18 Trance.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
The DPX2 on it, like all Fox suspension I've had, has been completely underwhelming. Had a CC DB Inline coil on my old Reign and that shock had *really* nice performance.
Both (MRP & DVO) seem to come with a type of "climb switch" as well, which should be nice for the pedaling. Does the Hazzard on your Patrol have that switch?
Thanks. I have an 11-6 on my Sentinel, and was sort of fishing for info on how it might feel vs. a conventional coil. I find the 11-6 to be great over small bumps, especially very fast ones. It takes the edge off big hits due to the bumper but I can definitely feel them when they happen, and it doesn't take huge jumps to reach that point. But in contrast, the DPX2 with the largest token resists getting to that bottom-out more, but once I get there, it's a hard "clack". I feel the DPX2 is a bit more wallow-y at the sag point (31%) even with a lot of LSC (only 4 clicks from closed). The most surprising thing I think is that the 11-6 actually pedals better, probably due to running a lower sag. And yes, it weighs a fuckton and a half. I'm halfway tempted to try a progressive coil on a lighter weight base shock (like DHX2 or Hazzard) just because I feel fairly confident that I don't NEED Push to tune it for me (even though it does feel spot on).Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
One more question for the experts, since I don't want to post on the dumpster fire torque wrench thread.
If you assume your torque wrench is slightly inaccurate, how much should you undershoot the torque specifications by to ensure you don't overtorque? I assume that you want to under torque, since over torquing can increase wear on bearings/pivots and make it harder to disassemble. What I've been doing is match the torque rating up to like 3nm. Up to 10nm, I undershoot by 0.5. Between 10-15, I undershoot by 1nm. Up to 45, I undershoot by 5nm. If it matters, I'm using a Pro Tools (Shimano) mini torque wrench for 1-15nm, and a Park one for 10-45nm. I suspect the Pro Tools one is inaccurate due to finding bearing binding and wear on linkages after following the rating exactly.
Yeah, the Hazzard has the climb switch. It definitely firms things up... too much for Front Range climbing IMO. I want the suspension to be a little active for climbing techy trails. If I ever find myself climbing a jeep road or something I'll for sure lock it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
The climb switch on the Hazzard is pretty similar to going all the way closed on the DPX2 3-position switch. It'd be nice to have something in the middle.
Also, worth noting I haven't dicked with the LSC on the Hazzard at all yet. It's very likely I could get it to pedal better by doing that.
Torque wrenches can be high or low. The harbor freight wrench I bought was dead on until it stopped working completely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Our shop has a calibrator that I check my wrenches on occasionally. I have no idea where else would have one that would check it for you, but finding a local resource for this would be perfect.
Seth
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You're gonna need to take that question over to MTBR.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Well call me cra-cra but I believe that America really did land on the moon and that a torque wrench will be accurate
PM PauldotcomQuote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
I guess I deserved that.
Last I checked, it was crickets over there.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
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They are all home calibrating their torque wrenches.
Anyone routinely true their rotors? I have experienced very little reward for the effort in this pursuit.
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Keep trying. It is super easy with a 6 bolt rotor. Crescent wrench is the cheap tool of choice.
You have a rotor that keeps going out of true? That seems like an indicator of some other problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Nope. 15-ish years on disc brakes and have never trued a rotor.
Like? I have a rotor that I have trued a couple of times. Seems like it lasts for a while and then after a long downhill it'll start to rub again. Or maybe it just wasn't that true to begin with and it only shows when brakes are really hot?Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Yeah, mostly an indicator that your brakes are getting super hot. Might be worth sizing up to a bigger rotor. Could also mean your rotor is worn down and getting a bit thin. Could just mean that you have a shitty rotor.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
I find a lot of rotors need a little tweak when they're new, which can usually be accomplished just by bending the rotor a bit with my fingers. It's pretty rare that I need to true a rotor after that (unless I smack it on something).
So I went to swap tires last night and figured out that both my front and rear rims are dented. I have gone through many rear rims, but denting a front rim is rarer.
I am debating whether going carbon is a bad idea. I can likely build up a set of We Are Ones (which seem to have a good track record and a lifetime warranty) for about the cost of 4 or 5 alloy wheel builds. So assuming I don't need to pay to replace any carbon rims over time, I break even after a season or 2, depending how many alloy rims I would have gone through in that same time.
I like the idea of carbon because it stays true and doesn't dent, so I won't have wobbly wheels or issues with tubeless tires over the life of the wheels. The downside is that they crack.
So here's the question - for someone who typically ends up denting rear alloy rims, is going carbon (even overbuilt ones with a good lifetime warranty) a bad idea?
You're braking too much, pussy :fm:Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
I dent any aluminum rim that I ride. I have spent a lot of time on carbon rims, and I've never broken one.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
That said, I think denting aluminum rims isn't a big deal at all. Does the tire still seat and hold air? If so, then I give zero shits about a dent.
You guys might want to consider putting the rubber part on the rocks. I think that works better.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Yeah, I mostly agree, except that dents can make seating a tire a pain in the ass. Often they're go eventually but with some effort and a compressor (which I don't have at home) or C02. Maybe that's not enough to warrant the cost of replacing rims, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I can deal with a dented rear rim. But looking down at a front wheel with a hop will drive me nuts.
Good to hear you've had luck with carbon rims.
A little pancake compressor costs about the same as an aluminum rim. Just sayin.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
I unmounted a set of DH tires with CushCore last night. Fuck me. Definitely felt a bit manlier after that. Thank god for trash cans, Pedros levers and leather gloves.