Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

^^ That's a sweet truck man. The 1st Gen Tacoma's are really capable off-road, and awfully tough. I'd sure as hell keep it as long as it moves. Which will probably be a long time, even beating on it.

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Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ncskier

I posted in the Landcruiser thread about picking up a new to me mint 2003 Tacoma Long bed, regular cab, 4x4, 4cylinder. After spending the past 25 years avoiding working on vehicles I have to admit its been fun tinkering with general maintenance stuff. It sat for about 6 years so first was a new battery. Then this past weekend I drained the old oil and replaced with some nice fresh dino oil and Napa gold filter.
Any thoughts on switching to a high mileage blend or full synthetic?
It has 166k on the motor and nothing leaks and nothing burns apparently. It runs like a top. The oil filter was a pain in the ass to remove.
Last night I decided to change spark plugs with some factory Denso from the dealer. They are expensive at $10 a pop, however the prior owner had some POS Autolite ones that were way past their due date.
I had to follow a tutorial about removing a resonance box for the air box, but once that was out of the way it was smooth sailing. I did put antiseize on the threads and dielectric on the coil packs for good measure, buttoned it back up and couldn't believe how quiet and smooth it was at idle. I suspect based on the condition of the plugs that they change 1&4 but left 2&3 due to them being under the air intake tube. Regardless, its done now and running so quietly its hard to believe its a 15 year old motor. Good job Toyota.
My buddy owns an independent shop so next is some fresh fluids in the T-Case, Differentials and Gear box. I don't want to tackle those without a lift and experience.
I scored some Yokohama Geolander M&T+ for $120 each from Tire Rack on clearance and I have new matte grey wheels coming 16x8 with -10mm backspace to give the wheel wells and UCA's some more space for the Old Man Emu lift i ordered. New coilovers and new rear shocks and springs, should add some more clearance and life to the Taco.
Once external stuff starts going on I'll snaps some pics.
I have to admit compared to my 2017 Diesel Super Duty, this truck is very fun and more like our Polaris Ranger in a lot of ways. Looking around the almost spartan engine bay is refreshing.
I have some decisions to make like ripping out the badly beat up rhino lining and possible paint job to OD Green or Desert Tan. Also adding a snorkle and some armor. But that will be phase 2.
I keep tinkering with "forever cars" and I thought my 2015 JK 4 door would be the one, but that didn't work out due to the stellar quality of Fiat and shitty dealer network which destroyed it.
I am thinking of keeping this mighty Taco for the long haul. I have less then 5k in it so far and Alias shared the carfax with me and its always been a southern truck. Not a stitch of rust anywhere.
I should add- I did spend lots of time cleaning the interior since it sat for 6 years under a carport with cigarette ashes in the ash tray. Seemed like every hot day it would reek again. I didn't check the ashtray until this past weekend and realized thats why I couldn't get the smell out. Now after soaking it in white vinegar and leaving vinegar inside the cab for a few days along with an ionizing bomb for the vents, It smells 100% better.

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I would stick with conventional oil at this point. Old mechanics say never go from dino to synthetic, especially at 100k plus miles. People claim if you take acetone and wipe down the head liner it greatly removes cig smell from interior. Check to see if you have a cabin filter that can be replaced.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ncskier

I should add- I did spend lots of time cleaning the interior since it sat for 6 years under a carport with cigarette ashes in the ash tray. Seemed like every hot day it would reek again. I didn't check the ashtray until this past weekend and realized thats why I couldn't get the smell out. Now after soaking it in white vinegar and leaving vinegar inside the cab for a few days along with an ionizing bomb for the vents, It smells 100% better.

---

The amount of cigarette smell that the upholstery & foam soaks up is insane.
Friend tried to clean his project van up. First used some ozone service but the car reeked like an ashtray after few weeks. Took off the upholstery and washed it, soaked the foam in a bin with washing powder...dark brown water came out that smelled like dead Malboro Man. He ended up replacing them altogether with some serious scrubbing of the headliners and dashboard etc.. Mileage might vary, depending how many packs a day the former owner has smoked...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fatnslow

I would stick with conventional oil at this point. Old mechanics say never go from dino to synthetic, especially at 100k plus miles. People claim if you take acetone and wipe down the head liner it greatly removes cig smell from interior. Check to see if you have a cabin filter that can be replaced.

---

No cabin air filter in my 2003. AFAIK, the box didn't get added until 05, and an actual filter didn't come from the factory until 06. I had/have 2 choice in my old 85 and 03, and that is either 'fresh' or recirculate.

Wrench fest on 540i continued with a bunch of small items. Fixed the busted drivers side seat recline, electric head rest, passenger side head rest. Seats are now fully functional as designed. And installed a new Pioneer stereo. Got tired of only getting 2 radio stations cause the fm range was for Japanese market.

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On to the cruiser. Resealed the ac system today. Was completely empty, which is good or bad? Cause I don't want to release that crap in the atmosphere, but since it was empty, guess it already released. Ok, well now the system is sealed. Will get it vacuum tested and charged tomorrow.
Fun times. Lots of seals. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b378128d1f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d93f524d9f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...480fb3ed30.jpg

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So one of the guide pins on my rear brake calipers is stripped (hex top of bolt).. Should I simply replace the entire caliper or try to work the bolt out some way? ( I don't have a hoist so I'm working at it from the outside of the wheel well, as opposed to being underneath.)

^^^ It's brakes, so ultimately, you have to feel good about them.
Do what will make you feel best about your brakes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Thaleia

So one of the guide pins on my rear brake calipers is stripped (hex top of bolt).. Should I simply replace the entire caliper or try to work the bolt out some way? ( I don't have a hoist so I'm working at it from the outside of the wheel well, as opposed to being underneath.)

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Why would you replace a caliper because of a stopped hex head ? Just go buy a new pin.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fatnslow

Why would you replace a caliper because of a stopped hex head ? Just go buy a new pin.

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This. Get busy w/some vice grips or drill it and use an easy out. You may want to take the carrier (bracket) off first to get access if you're drilling.

If the threads are stripped you may be able to buy an oversized "rescue" pin. Dorman sells them for some vehicles.

Oh and use a shitload of PB Blaster -- obviously the brake hardware is pretty well stuck on this vehicle.

I am going to have to start playing in here. I run the Ops department of a badass hill and we break shit in exotic and impressive ways, often in extremely tricky spots to get to.

I'll start taking pics.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by highangle

^^^ It's brakes, so ultimately, you have to feel good about them.
Do what will make you feel best about your brakes.

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Yep

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fatnslow

Why would you replace a caliper because of a stopped hex head ? Just go buy a new pin.

---

The top of the guide pin bolt is stripped, not the thread part - in other words a wrench or socket won't move it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Obstruction

This. Get busy w/some vice grips or drill it and use an easy out. You may want to take the carrier (bracket) off first to get access if you're drilling.

If the threads are stripped you may be able to buy an oversized "rescue" pin. Dorman sells them for some vehicles.

Oh and use a shitload of PB Blaster -- obviously the brake hardware is pretty well stuck on this vehicle.

---

PB Blaster for sure, bought two cans today and will start soaking everything a day or two in advance. Never used an easy out before - given that the guide pin is seized I imagine it's going to be a pita, will likely remove the caliper assembly to make it more manageable. Or buy a new caliper..

Take a look on YouTube on removing a stripped hex caliper guide pin. If you have a small pipe wrench it might do the trick.

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Every time I work on the Heep, I wish every oil filter was this easy.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...282e6d50cb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...672c8c9031.jpg

My least favorite part of apartment living is no garage. I need to do a pretty simple straight forward repair - ABS sensor rust jacking throwing off the sensor at slow speeds (was a GM recall) - but have no way to do it myself

^^ I sometimes wrench at a friend's house who has a garage and plenty of space. But it's kinda a pita.

Today I replaced front tie downs with real recovery hardware. Thankful for my neighbor's long breaker bar!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2456d09302.jpg

I have what I like to call "the special touch." Every project I undertake tends to require twice the time it's supposed to, big or small. While I'm not an accomplished mechanic, I've pretty much done everything short of a motor rebuild at this point and it just doesn't get any slower than me.

A few weeks ago, I added a piggy-back chip to my 1997 7.3L pickup. A seemingly easy project, all one has to do is pull the PCM, sand the terminals, slide the chip on to the board, reinstall PCM, then install the control knob. Internet promised a 30 minute job. Took me an hour and half--the PCM wouldn't come out to save my life and I was loathe to force it. Threading the wire to the knob proved to be Hellen Keller in dildo factory, and then I couldn't decide where to actually drill/place the controls.

Moving on, I bought a very simple headlight relay-kit for the same truck since the headlights didn't do fuck-all. Doesn't get much easier than this: Remove headlight connections, replace with pre-wired loom/harness/relay kit, connect grounds, connect to battery, connect to headlight wiring using the prewired connector. Even the dumb-dicks on Amazon said it took them less than 10 minutes. Took me 45--bit broke while drilling a ground, couldn't find a suitable ground screw, had to remove a battery to get to route the wires, battery terminal bolt was corroded. Amazing.

Going to be doing some "bigger" projects on the Ford shortly--front leaf springs and all four shocks. While I've done these several times before, I'm planning on the better part of a day. FML.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bodywhomper

Today I replaced front tie downs with real recovery hardware. Thankful for my neighbor's long breaker bar!

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Looks familiar.

http://i.imgur.com/8oruW1r.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by unitofstuff

Looks familiar

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Yep :)

I rattle canned mine instead of the powder coat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater

I have what I like to call "the special touch." Every project I undertake tends to require twice the time it's supposed to, big or small. While I'm not an accomplished mechanic, I've pretty much done everything short of a motor rebuild at this point and it just doesn't get any slower than me.

A few weeks ago, I added a piggy-back chip to my 1997 7.3L pickup. A seemingly easy project, all one has to do is pull the PCM, sand the terminals, slide the chip on to the board, reinstall PCM, then install the control knob. Internet promised a 30 minute job. Took me an hour and half--the PCM wouldn't come out to save my life and I was loathe to force it. Threading the wire to the knob proved to be Hellen Keller in dildo factory, and then I couldn't decide where to actually drill/place the controls.

Moving on, I bought a very simple headlight relay-kit for the same truck since the headlights didn't do fuck-all. Doesn't get much easier than this: Remove headlight connections, replace with pre-wired loom/harness/relay kit, connect grounds, connect to battery, connect to headlight wiring using the prewired connector. Even the dumb-dicks on Amazon said it took them less than 10 minutes. Took me 45--bit broke while drilling a ground, couldn't find a suitable ground screw, had to remove a battery to get to route the wires, battery terminal bolt was corroded. Amazing.

Going to be doing some "bigger" projects on the Ford shortly--front leaf springs and all four shocks. While I've done these several times before, I'm planning on the better part of a day. FML.

---

Dude you and me both. I think rebuilding the front end of my LC took 2 solid days and then it still sat for 3 weeks half taken apart due to broken/missing/fubar'd/out of stock parts needing repair/replacement.

Put sumo shocks on the new sprinter rig. Easy, fast. No more sag in the back and way less sway. May need to put on the fox shox next.

Still can't bring myself to install the snorkel.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by detrusor

Put sumo shocks on the new sprinter rig. Easy, fast. No more sag in the back and way less sway. May need to put on the fox shox next.

Still can't bring myself to install the snorkel.

---

Jong question: don't spring affect sag and not shocks?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dromontana

so, like, the shocks provide damping. And then the springs, well that's mostly used to manage ride height

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As in, shocks don't affect sag....

Gas and ride-leveling shocks are also a thing. No idea if that's what is on the van.


I hear you guys on taking longer than it probably should to get work done. That transmission filter and flush I did the other weekend took four hours and that was with a lift. But everything that comes off gets cleaned, every surface is scraped and prepped, and every bolt nut and bolt is torqued.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bodywhomper

Yep :)

I rattle canned mine instead of the powder coat.

---

I have a bad track record of painting, plus I was only able to get them right before heading off to HIH7. Everyone knows red makes you faster too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by unitofstuff

I have a bad track record of painting, plus I was only able to get them right before heading off to HIH7. Everyone knows red makes you faster too.

---

I admit, my first thought was, "get the red ones."

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this space reserved for what could be an epic labor Day weekend. For my 2003 Taco 4x4 I have ordered the following and should all be here in the next few days.
Inner Tie Rods
Outer Tie Rods
Lower Ball Joints
Old Man Emu 881 Coils and Struts with 5mm trim packer. Should net out 2.5"- 2.75" of lift although it will probably be higher then current due to original struts having 166k miles on them
JBA Upper Control arms
Rear Dakar 2.5" lift leaf springs
Old Man Emu Shocks
Brake proportioning valve bracket
Extended brake lines
New greasable springs shackles
Longer exhaust hangers.
Plus I have 4 new level 8 matte gray 16x8 0" offset wheel already mounted withe some geolander MT+ tires in 265x75x16 sitting in my garage with new lug nuts
I figured if i am busting up ball joints on the front end, why bother putting the old stuff back on plus it has to be aligned anyways so new parts seem like a good idea. My plan is too work slow and do the front end first then move on to the rear depending on how ambitious I am plus whether or not it turns into a cluster. I may enlist my 17 year old nephew as a gopher regardless.

Wrenchin again. This time on the wife's car. Bimmer wagon needed new control arms and brakes. So.....
Off we go!
4 new control arms and two new brake discs.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9c36e48e25.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6dbb60aeae.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...556a7bd4a6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...254bd1f900.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f19882d1ee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...376a8d5f98.jpg

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Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ncskier

I posted in the Landcruiser thread about picking up a new to me mint 2003 Tacoma Long bed, regular cab, 4x4, 4cylinder. After spending the past 25 years avoiding working on vehicles I have to admit its been fun tinkering with general maintenance stuff. It sat for about 6 years so first was a new battery. Then this past weekend I drained the old oil and replaced with some nice fresh dino oil and Napa gold filter.
Any thoughts on switching to a high mileage blend or full synthetic?
It has 166k on the motor and nothing leaks and nothing burns apparently. It runs like a top. The oil filter was a pain in the ass to remove.
Last night I decided to change spark plugs with some factory Denso from the dealer. They are expensive at $10 a pop, however the prior owner had some POS Autolite ones that were way past their due date.
I had to follow a tutorial about removing a resonance box for the air box, but once that was out of the way it was smooth sailing. I did put antiseize on the threads and dielectric on the coil packs for good measure, buttoned it back up and couldn't believe how quiet and smooth it was at idle. I suspect based on the condition of the plugs that they change 1&4 but left 2&3 due to them being under the air intake tube. Regardless, its done now and running so quietly its hard to believe its a 15 year old motor. Good job Toyota.
My buddy owns an independent shop so next is some fresh fluids in the T-Case, Differentials and Gear box. I don't want to tackle those without a lift and experience.
I scored some Yokohama Geolander M&T+ for $120 each from Tire Rack on clearance and I have new matte grey wheels coming 16x8 with -10mm backspace to give the wheel wells and UCA's some more space for the Old Man Emu lift i ordered. New coilovers and new rear shocks and springs, should add some more clearance and life to the Taco.
Once external stuff starts going on I'll snaps some pics.
I have to admit compared to my 2017 Diesel Super Duty, this truck is very fun and more like our Polaris Ranger in a lot of ways. Looking around the almost spartan engine bay is refreshing.
I have some decisions to make like ripping out the badly beat up rhino lining and possible paint job to OD Green or Desert Tan. Also adding a snorkle and some armor. But that will be phase 2.
I keep tinkering with "forever cars" and I thought my 2015 JK 4 door would be the one, but that didn't work out due to the stellar quality of Fiat and shitty dealer network which destroyed it.
I am thinking of keeping this mighty Taco for the long haul. I have less then 5k in it so far and Alias shared the carfax with me and its always been a southern truck. Not a stitch of rust anywhere.
I should add- I did spend lots of time cleaning the interior since it sat for 6 years under a carport with cigarette ashes in the ash tray. Seemed like every hot day it would reek again. I didn't check the ashtray until this past weekend and realized thats why I couldn't get the smell out. Now after soaking it in white vinegar and leaving vinegar inside the cab for a few days along with an ionizing bomb for the vents, It smells 100% better.

---

Ok bumping my own post.
Starting this past tuesday and with a pile of parts from amazon, Wheelers off road, low range off road and a local dealership, I proceeded to get my ass kicked for a few hours each night.
For those who don't want all the details, I was successful. Full Old Man Emu from ARB is now installed.
I wound up doing full Dakar leaf packs, new nitro shocks, brake proportioning valve relocation bracket and exhaust hanger. That was the rest.
To be honest it was not too bad. Following the wealth of online tutorials I did one corner at a time slow and steady. A ratchet strap helped get the axle back in place and the old hardware came off pretty easy. Thank you NC DOT for not owning salt trucks.
The front strut required a little more work and while I had the steering knuckle loose I did the lower ball joints, outer and inner tie rods and coil overs from Old Man Emu.
Funny how the drivers side took so long, but renewed Sunday morning with cooler weather and knowledge I knocked out the passenger side in about 3 hours.
Dropped it off a buddies shop last night for an alignment and some upper control arms.
I rented pullers and all in all it went smooth.
Pics to follow when I get it back but its a beast. 15 year old suspension was sagging and now its firm and tall. Really tall.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ncskier

Ok bumping my own post.
Starting this past tuesday and with a pile of parts from amazon, Wheelers off road, low range off road and a local dealership, I proceeded to get my ass kicked for a few hours each night.
For those who don't want all the details, I was successful. Full Old Man Emu from ARB is now installed.
I wound up doing full Dakar leaf packs, new nitro shocks, brake proportioning valve relocation bracket and exhaust hanger. That was the rest.
To be honest it was not too bad. Following the wealth of online tutorials I did one corner at a time slow and steady. A ratchet strap helped get the axle back in place and the old hardware came off pretty easy. Thank you NC DOT for not owning salt trucks.
The front strut required a little more work and while I had the steering knuckle loose I did the lower ball joints, outer and inner tie rods and coil overs from Old Man Emu.
Funny how the drivers side took so long, but renewed Sunday morning with cooler weather and knowledge I knocked out the passenger side in about 3 hours.
Dropped it off a buddies shop last night for an alignment and some upper control arms.
I rented pullers and all in all it went smooth.
Pics to follow when I get it back but its a beast. 15 year old suspension was sagging and now its firm and tall. Really tall.

---

Digging this build.

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Started work on newly acquired 05 Prius w/ 1/4 million miles. Worlds nosiest brakes were result of pads being worn to metal, glazing where they weren't and some insanely bent dust shields. Guess life on the farm is not kind to the undercarriage of yer basic hybrid. Not sure if these bitches had ever been changed. (Hybrids don't use friction brakes much). Used two old files, some vise grips and a c-clamp to straighten out the dust shields. The rotor and pad swap was routine.
Attachment 211543
Drove it from southern Maine to MA afterwards and the Brakes were nice and quiet. Did the drum brakes in the rear next. Been a long time since I've screwed with drum brakes, I hate drum brakes. Ended up doing wheel cylinders too. Now I've got to get them bled because the Prius braking system relies primarily on engine braking and uses a funky actuator that requires special tools, software and sauce that only the dealer has.

Then I bought a new smart key online (car only came with one) and had to do an hours worth of voodoo to program the thing.

Only needs an oil change, new tires and plates before I turn it over to my kid who'll park It in Boston and use it as acommuter mobile. May God have mercy on its soul.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ncskier

Ok bumping my own post.
Starting this past tuesday and with a pile of parts from amazon, Wheelers off road, low range off road and a local dealership, I proceeded to get my ass kicked for a few hours each night.
For those who don't want all the details, I was successful. Full Old Man Emu from ARB is now installed.
I wound up doing full Dakar leaf packs, new nitro shocks, brake proportioning valve relocation bracket and exhaust hanger. That was the rest.
To be honest it was not too bad. Following the wealth of online tutorials I did one corner at a time slow and steady. A ratchet strap helped get the axle back in place and the old hardware came off pretty easy. Thank you NC DOT for not owning salt trucks.
The front strut required a little more work and while I had the steering knuckle loose I did the lower ball joints, outer and inner tie rods and coil overs from Old Man Emu.
Funny how the drivers side took so long, but renewed Sunday morning with cooler weather and knowledge I knocked out the passenger side in about 3 hours.
Dropped it off a buddies shop last night for an alignment and some upper control arms.
I rented pullers and all in all it went smooth.
Pics to follow when I get it back but its a beast. 15 year old suspension was sagging and now its firm and tall. Really tall.

---

Sweet sweet success. I always feel like my car looks tougher/faster/etc after I finish work on it, even if you can't see any difference.

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Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ncskier

Ok bumping my own post.
Starting this past tuesday and with a pile of parts from amazon, Wheelers off road, low range off road and a local dealership, I proceeded to get my ass kicked for a few hours each night.
For those who don't want all the details, I was successful. Full Old Man Emu from ARB is now installed.
I wound up doing full Dakar leaf packs, new nitro shocks, brake proportioning valve relocation bracket and exhaust hanger. That was the rest.
To be honest it was not too bad. Following the wealth of online tutorials I did one corner at a time slow and steady. A ratchet strap helped get the axle back in place and the old hardware came off pretty easy. Thank you NC DOT for not owning salt trucks.
The front strut required a little more work and while I had the steering knuckle loose I did the lower ball joints, outer and inner tie rods and coil overs from Old Man Emu.
Funny how the drivers side took so long, but renewed Sunday morning with cooler weather and knowledge I knocked out the passenger side in about 3 hours.
Dropped it off a buddies shop last night for an alignment and some upper control arms.
I rented pullers and all in all it went smooth.
Pics to follow when I get it back but its a beast. 15 year old suspension was sagging and now its firm and tall. Really tall.

---

Love it. I need pics.

Plenty of Toyota dorks here but I've found that generally, there is little to be done on the power train side of the mod world. That is to say, they don't care about air intakes nor exhaust, and fancy plugs don't get you anywhere. It's almost like they're built so tight that there's little room for improvement. So in regard to your oil question, I'd stick to a good synthetic like Mobile 1, Schaefer's or whatever and Toyota oil filters from the dealer or Amazon.

As you've discovered, suspension can be improved greatly, as can interior accessories. You're going to be blown away how much better that thing rides compared to stock after alignment.

Ih8mud.com is both a ridiculous resource and a dangerous drug.

Decent rebate on five quarts of Mobil 1 motor oil.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mazderati

Decent rebate on five quarts of Mobil 1 motor oil.

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If you need Mobile 1 Walmart is under $25 for 5 qt jug everyday.

And maybe half that with the rebate.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater

Love it. I need pics.

Plenty of Toyota dorks here but I've found that generally, there is little to be done on the power train side of the mod world. That is to say, they don't care about air intakes nor exhaust, and fancy plugs don't get you anywhere. It's almost like they're built so tight that there's little room for improvement. So in regard to your oil question, I'd stick to a good synthetic like Mobile 1, Schaefer's or whatever and Toyota oil filters from the dealer or Amazon.

As you've discovered, suspension can be improved greatly, as can interior accessories. You're going to be blown away how much better that thing rides compared to stock after alignment.

Ih8mud.com is both a ridiculous resource and a dangerous drug.

---

Yes, i don't plan on any drivetrain mods. I did clean the throttle body last week and installed all new plugs earlier. The thing now idles so smooth.
I don't really care about interior mods either. Although discerning eyes will notice the faux max 5 camo seatcovers I installed, $49 on ebay. The original seat fabric was in great shape, but I figured why trash them now when it goes into farm/hunting duty.
I also had to replace the interior dash lighting and put good old replacement bulbs from Autozone. All in all I have under $2000 in mods. The tires I picked up on clearance for $120 each and the OME suspension was around $1100 or so. I do have a set of JBA offroad upper control arms ready to go in as well.
Thats my 2017 superduty in the background of the first picture and its like a luxury spaceship inside. I like the spartan tacoma interior with roll up windows and manual everything. I want to keep it simple on this one.

Ok pics-
BEFORE- completely stock with no upgrades
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c53193a6b9.jpg
AFTER- all new old man emu suspension, wheels and tires
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c66812554e.jpg


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Looks good with the lift.

Fuck yea

That little fucker will go anywhere. Nice job.