Ah yes, I misread - I thought you bought a DHF, put if on the front of your bike, liked it, and now needed to get a rear tire. Not that you already had another DHF sitting around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
Printable View
Ah yes, I misread - I thought you bought a DHF, put if on the front of your bike, liked it, and now needed to get a rear tire. Not that you already had another DHF sitting around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
Thanks for the offer and advice, I will hang tight until the fall and just buy one. If my DHR wears out before then, I'll try an Ardent. I've only had one in the front, was just OK...Quote:
Originally Posted by joetron
Does anyone have a direct Butcher/Slaughter to DHF/SS comparison yet?
Just curious.
Run it in the normal / same direction front and rear. Otherwise braking performance suffers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
Might be worth looking at the Aggressor. Faster than a DHRII (although not as fast as an SS), but more traction / less skittery than the SS. Haven't really ridden it in much moondust, but I'd think it'd do fine. Only place I didn't really like it was in mud.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted
splitting hairs comping treads. casing comparisons matter a little more with these.Quote:
Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn
Specialized is evil.
Maxxis less so.
Like Toast said.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
Ran DHF front and rear (same direction) on mine and my wife's bikes for about the last year. Just switched to DHRII in the rear for both d/t worn out old rubber. Not noticing much difference. Just throw that bastard on there and enjoy it.
I have used DHF 2.5s a lot in the past and tried Butchers 2.3s for some of last summer. Volume is pretty much the same. Butcher tread is slightly less deep and didn't quite get the same bite when leaned-over. Control casing is thinner than a Maxxis EXO, Grid a little tougher than EXO. Set up tubeless just as easily as Maxxis. I'd run a Butcher Grid in the rear again if it was a much cheaper option than a Minion EXO.Quote:
Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn
Yup. I wanted to replace the SS with Aggressor, but those tires are like unicorn tears right now, so I went with DHR2Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
thanks guys
spec are much heavier, I'd stick to maxxis just because of that, the rest seems to be like said splitting hairs
Thanks! Just bought one on jenson.com for $50, free shipping. Worth a try.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Aggressor is fantastic as a rear tire, kinda like an open channel Ikon with full knob height.Quote:
Originally Posted by joetron
My understanding as well is that the new GRID is stronger (and makes sense that its a little heavier) than EXO. Old GRID definitely was not but it was a lot lighter. Interesting about Maxxis 2.5 = Spec 2.3. Do others find this as well? My usual trail/shuttle combo is DHF/DHR2 EXO 2.3s but looking for something with more volume and stronger in the rear than EXO for 29". Is Spec Buthcher GRID the answer?Quote:
Originally Posted by LC
Pretty well documented how small maxis runs.Quote:
Originally Posted by robnow
In the past, yes, but i thought that changed in the last couple seasons?!?Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
my dhf 2.5 is much narrower than the conti mk 2.4 it replacedQuote:
Originally Posted by robnow
Does your dhf have ac/dc lettering or bubble lettering, and is it a 3c compound/folding w EXO?Quote:
Originally Posted by mfa81
I don't think the DHF's have changed, but newer tires (i.e. DHR II, HR II, etc.) are more closely in line with other companies. That's why, for example, a 2.4 DHR II is the same width as a 2.5 DHF.
Copy, I had the older DHF with AC/DC lettering and even though it was a 2.5 it was obviously skinny. I just wondered if the newer version were closer to 2.5 than the older version. Seems like if width is a concern the DHR II is the way to go. Thanks Toast.
If you want a wider tire, a DHR II won't actually help you; it's the same width as the old 2.5's but Maxxis just relabeled it as a 2.4 (which is closer to what it actually is), and that's the biggest size they make. If you want a tire with a similar tread pattern to the DHRII but with a bit more width / volume, check out the Bontrager G5. Rides pretty similarly, but slightly bigger.
Thanks for the insight.
For all the Gwin Fanboys who are looking for a Minion with a different name:http://www.pinkbike.com/news/onza-aa...look-2016.html
Bump. Mrs jm2e just tore her third DHR II sidewall in as many months. Any thoughts on whether I need to search for something more durable? Or maybe just switch to DHF or SS? She's kind of a ripper, but a featherweight so hard to imagine she puts a bigger hurting on tires than a bunch of mags.
Personally, I've been on Butchers for a couple years. Just a bit heavier and less grippy. Not destroying them as fast, but I'm kind of a pussy.
treads don't rip, casing designs rip. "DHR2" is a tread design.
which DHR 2 casing was it?
Exo.
I actually thought all the folding bead minions were Exo and the only differences were tread density/stickiness.
But, I admittedly get overwhelmed and impatient with any tire company that has tons of layers of ambiguous tire options. Which is why I so often turn to my more learned internet friends.
I'm a huge fan of the DHF and R for riding in New England, but riding in Santa Cruz I don't think it would be the best tire combo for me. Out there I rode on the butcher/slaughter and it was pretty sweet. Probably faster or in my case just more efficient as I'm not into speed. Dirt doesn't cushion like the powdah.
Been riding DHR/DHF in wide trail version since last August on 42mm internal rims. Grippy as fuck. Just for the hell of it I trimmed all the center knobs on the dhr to try and make a DIY wide trail minion SS. May be awesome or may suck balls.
Get one with a doubledown casing. The Exo just has some sidewall reinforcements. The Doubledown is a full two ply tire, but it's not as heavy as a DH casing (Doubledown is 2x120tpi, DH is 2x60tpi), and it still gets a folding bead.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Look at weights. That will tell you more than reading a bunch of casing marketing gobbledeegook. But no just because you tore ONE version of a DHR2 doesn't mean that DHR2s are week. The first molds they ever made were DH tires fer cryin out loud.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Kind of, but not entirely. Look at casing thickness in the sidewall and between the tread as well as weight, but some casings just seem stronger than others regardless. Being the geek I am, I've been measuring thicknesses of my last few rear tyres before mounting:Quote:
Originally Posted by kidwoo
Maxxis DHR2 EXO, 27.5x2.4: 920g, 1.03mm sidewall, 1.52mm between tread
Specialized Butcher Grid 27.5x2.4: 930g, 1.25mm sidewall, 2.15mm between tread
Michelin Wild Rock'R2 Gum-X 27.5x2.35: 1100g, 1.28mm sidewall, 2.55mm between tread
WTB Trail Boss Tough/Fast 27.5x2.4: 1060g, 1.75mm sidewall, 2.40mm between tread
I rode a lot of DHF and DHR2 EXOs in the past and would usually put 2-3 holes between the tread blocks in the life of each tyre (mostly pinch-flats I'm pretty sure). The Butcher Grid was the only rear tyre I didn't put holes in at all, but the Grid's rubber compound wore out quicker than I'd like; still I'd maybe get one again cheap on eBay in the future (people take them off new bikes and sell them very cheap); The Purgatory Grid's casing is way thinner than the Butcher Grid by the way. The Wild Rock'R2 is my current rear, significantly heavier than the DHR2 and also thicker at the tread but I've still put two holes in it so far. The Trail Boss will be mounted soon and I have high hopes for it based on the numbers and how it feels in-hand, but it's going to suck if the trails get sloppy. Old Schwalbe Snakeskins wore out too fast for me on the rear and I don't really like their treads for the rear so I haven't tried or measured any of their Super Gravity casings. If there's an Aggressor or DHR2 DoubleDown 2.4 coming I'll try it sometime. E13s look good but cost about double any other option in Europe.
My everyday riding is very rough and rocky (natural walking tracks 90% of the time) but I've only had one sidewall tear in the past 5 years, and that was with a lightweight Schwalbe so I don't think much about sidewall durability. Thicker sidewalls do just feel a bit more solid on the trail though.
Feel like the new play is DD rear Exo front, no? Cut the weight where you're less likely to be throwing your weight down.
Considering the 2.6 Forekaster/rekon for a F/r combo on i35's
Yep. I'm sticking with Snakeskin Magic Marys on he front (a little lighter casing than EXO). Only ever had one puncture and I like the weight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Dunfee
Friends who ride more aggressively than me go for reinforced or even DH on the front but I've never felt the need.
Yes pretty much entirely.Quote:
Originally Posted by LC
There's more to durability than thickness. Dense material is dense. It doesn't need to be thick. Half an inch of silicone is still weaker than a 1/8" of Kevlar (and guess which weighs more)
I've ridden (and torn) every one of those tires in your list. I still stand by what I said.
I was also a test rider for maxxis when they started all these new casings. The problem with them is that not all EXO tires are the same and not not all DD tires are the same. It's absurd. They vary the amount of material between EXOs to EXOs, and DDs to DDs as well. There are some EXO tires that are tougher than some DD tires for example. They should be clubbed over the head for this. But that's why weights tell you more than their supposed hierarchy of casing toughness. Every single tire made by any reputable company is trying to get somewhere on the spectrum between the lightest tough tire and the toughest light tire. Truth be told they're still screwing around with different ways to do this. If they had the most bomber system all tires would use it and they'd just vary subtle things about the design for their target use.
Anyway......that's my experience-based system. Seems to work.
Can't read the whole thread (won't)
What's the consensus on 29er rubber for all mountain riding. Have an ardent and a minion right now.
Not hard on tires, like the width and grip but would love some lower weight and rolls g resistance.
2.5 DHF and 2.3 Maxxis Aggressor on 30i rims. Pretty sure they're both DD. I tend to ride a lot of rocks so like the sidewall protection.
I just jumped on the Plus-Minus program and bought a 27.5x2.6 Butcher Grid for the front on my Commencal Meta V4. It barely clears the arch on my non-Boost Pike. I'm looking forward to trying it out. Hopefully it's solidly grippy without feeling too blunt in fast corners.
Previous tire was a Michelin Wild Rock'r 2, which was awesome but heavy. The new one is about 140 g lighter.
FWIW my DIY Wide Trail Minion SS is fucking tits. Rolls super fast now, but all handling seems to be the same. No loss of braking power, still hooks up in the corners, climbs like a champ. I think on wet roots it would be pretty hairy, but the speed savings on loose/hardpack are well worth it.
Pretty much why I asked. Sounds like It'll always be a bit of a crap shoot.Quote:
Originally Posted by kidwoo