Many times I wonder if this thread should be changed to “Ask Dee Hubbs”
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Many times I wonder if this thread should be changed to “Ask Dee Hubbs”
And also Toast
Dee Hubbs has actual information. I mostly bring opinionated bloviation that has a vague relation to reality.
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And this is why I respect you.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I’d give Dee props but his opinions on sock height continue to be disturbingly incorrect.
you want your sock color to match you bike
Yea, him too, even if it is opinion it almost always useful and relevant.Quote:
Originally Posted by rudy
Is there a good way to tell just looking if a used bike my buddy bought was set up tubeless? It's not so old that everything isn't tubeless ready, but it's certainly old enough that the sealant would have dried up and not be weeping through anywhere. Is there a smell test?
Push the valve core through?
Then smell. Obviously
First test, is the valve core removable? No = tube
Remove or loosen the valve lock ring and push the valve into the rim. If it hisses air it’s Tubeless.
I think >75% of my tubes in the past 15 years have had removable cores so I think test one is only a pretty quick rough elimination test. And I always just bought whatever tube was the cheapest, I wasn’t seeking them out.
Even if it passes, there’s a pretty good chance it could still be a tube.
Yeah, I was going to say, several years ago I bought a complete bike that supposedly was going to come set up tubeless. I pulled the valve cores out, squirted sealant in, then at some point later when changing tires realized I'd filled tubes with sealant.
Ok, thanks. Will it seal again if there's no sealant, though?
I have an old Yeti 575, size M (I think it's 2008? the first year of the hyrdoformed frame?), it was my regular bike until 3 years ago. It's in good shape for a bike that old because I was riding it regularly, got it tuned up regularly, with parts replaced when needed, etc, and while I am a hack I am a cautious hack so didn't wreck badly very often.
What's a good price for it? Not a "best I could get" price but more a "sell quickly, sell to a maggot for their kid, etc" price. It would make a good starter bike for someone just starting out or for a growing teen, and I realized that my original ideas for using it just aren't happening, and I'd like the garage space back.
I had a similar vintage Ibis Mojo SL that I'd ridden up til about 2017. It was in ok but not great shape as I'd ridden it a ton. Sold it during peak covid bike shortage for $800 and got a solid 20 replies in the first day after posting on CL.
First guy who emailed showed up and bought it without haggling. I had been thinking price it reasonable for quick sale, expecting some haggling. It probably would have still sold easily had I listed it for $1k given the market back then.
It is obviously much different now. If the bike is in good shape and looks good, I'd ask $600 and maybe expect $500. But it could still take a while.
Seems like right now you have to wait for the right buyer to come along. In 2022 I sold the Mojo 3 that replaced that SL. It took a couple months and I had to drop the price multiple times. Finally a guy came along who wanted it for his GF who was looking to get into MTB. They got a great deal on a good bike for her.
I recently sold my wife 2013 trance 29 with full xt for $600 and it took a while. I think $500 is probably top dollar for a 2008.
Some cheapies will use an old tube, and simple cut the valve stem portion out, to use it as a tubeless valve. Just sayin'.
I plead the 5th if anyone asks if I've done this.
<p>
I had two pairs of the iconic Shimano me702 shoes...the wider pair fit me well...an amazing all round shoe for epic long rides and riding lifts and everything in between. Based on reviews I bought a pair of Fox Union Boa shoes as a replacement but they just arrived and damn they are waaay too soft in the midsole to work well as an all round shoe. Maybe they changed for 2025? Any recommendations for a stiffish shoe that has a sole that can scramble up rocks etc? Velcro sucks since it wears out eventually but I'm fine with boa if the dials are located correctly. </p>
I had ME-7s as well and picked up some GE-9s last year after Andrew Strempke was quoted in a Bikepacking.com article on the AZ Trail Race saying they were his favorite shoes for hike-a-bike. They are excellent. Much, much better for walking than the ME-7 (I would always get heel lift) and still pretty stiff for pedaling. There's a Pinkbike review if you want to read more.
Thanks. I rejected the GE9 because they went to a Velcro strap. While I understand the use of Velcro in cheaper shoes it just wears out and stops sticking effectively. Velcro works great for the front of the shoe since those straps tend to be set and forget. Upon further inspection the front section of the fox midsole is somewhat stiff so they may be fine. 46 works in most shoes for me but these are really long, might have to exchange for a 45.
I really liked the neoprene gaiter on the me7 since I trail build a lot. At least the ge9 has that too.
Have a RS Lyrik Ultimate on my Hightower. not overly loving the feel, needs a lot of pressure to not bottom out it seems. i'm going to grab some tokens and mess around with that first before i abandon it completely ( i'm a bit of a Fox hound). any other tuning advice? anyone want to trade for a fox 36??
Definitely add a token if you're struggling with bottoming out too easily. I find the Lyrik to be nicely linear (it's my favorite stock airspring), but I'm 165 without gear. I find the TrailHead app's pressure recommendations to be a good starting point, but the rebound speed is a bit slow. I run 2-3 clicks faster rebound than what the app says for all my RS gear. I start with the comp settings in the middle, and work my way open from there. Most of my forks are at -1 HSC from middle and -2 LSC, but add a click of HSC when doing bigger jumps, and add 1-2 clicks LSC when riding really steep slower stuff and I want the front end to stand up more.