Ask the experts

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by toast2266

I adjust the caliper every time. But I don't swap the wheels back and forth that often. Loosen bolts, squeeze lever, lightly tighten bolts. Assuming it still rubs, loosen one bolt and manually align caliper by eye. Repeat until no rub. Assuming the 2 wheels aren't massively different and the rotors on both wheels are straight-ish, that's usually a 45 second process.

---

This is pretty much what I do, except it normally takes about 5-10 minutes of fiddling and swearing to get it right. Maybe I'll get better with practice.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HAB

Do you have an adapter bumping up to a larger rotor size? If it's the style where you have two long bolts that go through both the caliper and adapter, the bolt heads don't sit flat against the caliper and make it much more prone to moving when you tighten it. The four bolt style ones are way better.

---

I think this may be the source of my problem. There are 2 long bolts that go through an adapter and 2 thick washers between the caliper and fork, and the bolt head is not flat against the caliper, so the caliper shifts an unpredictable amount when I tighten the bolt. I got the bike (Specialized Crux) used, but I'm 99% sure this is the stock setup (with 160mm rotor).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

I prefer to shim rotors and shim cassettes so they can be swapped without adjustment.
Find the wheel that has the rotor the furthest outboard, and shim the other wheels to match. Centerlock rotors shims come in 0.25mm. For 6 rotors bolt I just use the "2 hole, no turn safety washers" as shims.

---

I'm going to try this. It seems like only the front rotor on one wheel needs to be shimmed to make it work.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by EWG

Well, I disagree a bit. I know folks who have ridden creaking BBs for years and years with no downside - other than the fact that no one will ride with them anymore and the fact that they are now completely insane...

---

I resemble this remark... (In my defense, I have an early gen Ripley, so I can barely hear the creaking BB over the creaking eccentrics.)

Fork question.

I just bought one of the last Orbea Occams in stock to make myself feel better about my fooked up wrist. Orbea usually offers a bunch of component options but since their supply chains are flailing anything but the stock configurations have been unavailable for a while. That means I didn't get to upgrade the fork to a 150mm FOX36 with GRIP2 damper and instead will be getting a 140mm FOX34 with the Fit4 damper.

That's the exact fork I'm currently running on my Primer and I have no qualms with it. It's also my first modern fork and my first modern bike so I have 0 reference points and nothing to compare it to. There seems to be a lot of hate for the FIT4 damper and its lack of adjustability but for me it's worked well enough, I very rarely use the 3-position adjustment switch unless I'm climbing miles of dirt road and haven't played much with other settings. I basically set the sag, played with rebound and bit, and that was the end of my tinkering.

For the Occam every review I've read has been with the beefier fork to keep with the trend of bigger is better. It's a $200 upgrade when available and doesn't change the geometry much (HTA and STA slackened by 0.5 degrees) so it seems like a no brainer. The problem right now is the availability of the 36 and the added cost since Fox has updated the 34 with a GRIP2 damper and I doubt I'll be able to sell the FIT4 version with a cut steerer for much more than $600.

I'm probably 175-180 lbs kitted and feel like I ride fairly aggressively (usually in the top 10-15% of Stravassholes on local segments, whatever that means) but realistically I know that I'm not a badass. I don't huck things, I don't ride park, I'm getting older and more scared of things, and I like going uphill and suffering for long periods of time as much as like bombing downhill. My happy place right now would be a 25+ miles adventure ride with lots of vert, some HAB, and some technical stuff at low speed on the down (for Wasatch people my go-to rides are things like Solitude/Honeycomb/Days/Catherine/Beartrap and when I ride PC I'm happier on Black Forest/Moose House than on Silver Queen). I don't have much time to travel with the bike so 95% of my riding will be in the Wasatch and I'll probably never make it to Squamish.

So, how much happier would I be with a 36 and longer travel? Increased stiffness might be nice but without ever feeling that the 34 is a flexy noodle I wonder how apparent it will be for the type of riding I do. Better adjustability may be lost on me, I don't see myself running a DH segment 5 times back to back to see how each click of HSC affects the handling. Longer travel could be useful for the rare times I get into really rowdy stuff but I think I could achieve that cheaply with a longer airshaft in the 34. I'm not married to FOX either, should I look at the RS Pike? Those 35 mm stanchions might be a happy middle ground between the FOX options... Or should I just ride the stock fork and stop blowing money ??

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Boissal

Fork question.

I just bought one of the last Orbea Occams in stock to make myself feel better about my fooked up wrist. Orbea usually offers a bunch of component options but since their supply chains are flailing anything but the stock configurations have been unavailable for a while. That means I didn't get to upgrade the fork to a 150mm FOX36 with GRIP2 damper and instead will be getting a 140mm FOX34 with the Fit4 damper.
... Or should I just ride the stock fork and stop blowing money ??

---

Sell the fork to mallwalker and get the one you want

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Boissal

Or should I just ride the stock fork and stop blowing money ??

---

Probably this.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Boissal

Longer travel could be useful for the rare times I get into really rowdy stuff but I think I could achieve that cheaply with a longer airshaft in the 34.

---

Probably not advisable to extend the travel on the 34. The lack of stiffness will start to get more noticeable.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Boissal

I'm not married to FOX either, should I look at the RS Pike? Those 35 mm stanchions might be a happy middle ground between the FOX options...

---

Not worth spending more to go from a 34 to a Pike, IMO. That's a lateral move. I am contractually obligated to point out (OK, not really) that the Manitou Mezzer is as stiff as a Fox 38 but weighs the same as a Fox 36, has the dual-positive chamber IRT system that kicks the shit out of token-based systems, doesn't require you to buy new air shafts to change the travel, includes an integrated fender, and is currently on sale for $200 off: https://hayesbicycle.com/products/me...32139567759405

Maggot Mezzer reviews: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ave-experience

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by abraham

Sell the fork to mallwalker and get the one you want

---

Bwah!

Have they sorted out the QC issues with the Mezzer yet? It looks really interesting, and the price is great, but there's a ton of posts on the MTBR fanboy thread by dissenters saying they received theirs with dry seals and no oil in it. I know the bushing issue was apparently fixed a few months ago.

First off, congrats on the new rig. The Occam was on my short list (I eventually went with a Ripmo, like half the world)
I'm a fan of the Fox Grip 2. I put a new 38 on my Ripmo. IMO it's far better than the Pike or Lyrik and worlds better than the Fit4 34. Definitely worth the upgrade $.
The problem is finding one. Everyone's had inventory issues but Fox's have been insane. I've heard end of August is best case scenario.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by abraham

Sell the fork to mallwalker and get the one you want

---

I'm working on that...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dantheman

Not worth spending more to go from a 34 to a Pike, IMO. That's a lateral move. I am contractually obligated to point out (OK, not really) that the Manitou Mezzer is as stiff as a Fox 38 but weighs the same as a Fox 36, has the dual-positive chamber IRT system that kicks the shit out of token-based systems, doesn't require you to buy new air shafts to change the travel, includes an integrated fender, and is currently on sale for $200 off: https://hayesbicycle.com/products/me...32139567759405

Maggot Mezzer reviews: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ave-experience

---

Damn, haven't thought of a Manitou fork since I was 12 years old, they were ubiquitous in France back then...
So the Mezzer is a beefier and better performing FOX36 at the same weight and $300 cheaper? Well shit. Thought on going to a 51mm offset vs a 44? Yet another thing I'd never notice?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roxtar

First off, congrats on the new rig. The Occam was on my short list (I eventually went with a Ripmo, like half the world)
I'm a fan of the Fox Grip 2. I put a new 38 on my Ripmo. IMO it's far better than the Pike or Lyrik and worlds better than the Fit4 34. Definitely worth the upgrade $.
The problem is finding one. Everyone's had inventory issues but Fox's have been insane. I've heard end of August is best case scenario.

---

Thanks, I test rode one earlier and really liked it even with the NX build and fried brakes the demo bikes tend to have. Made my Primer feel weirdly short and a bit clumsy on the down and it climbed better. Then I built one for Ms Boissal and was super impressed with the design and quality. I found one with not-so-great custom colors for 20% off and couldn't pass on it.
Re: 36, I found one in stock for $920 shipped which made me look into it pretty seriously. I have bigger bike envy despite not needing it. It's all going to boil down to how dentisty I feel and how much I can sell my current ride for...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Andeh

Have they sorted out the QC issues with the Mezzer yet? It looks really interesting, and the price is great, but there's a ton of posts on the MTBR fanboy thread by dissenters saying they received theirs with dry seals and no oil in it. I know the bushing issue was apparently fixed a few months ago.

---

No issues with the Mezzer I received in March, and no reports in that thread I linked to but the sample size is small. I am not officially affiliated with Manitou/Hayes in any way, but I do personally know the heads of Manitou and Hayes' bicycle division and I feel very confident saying that if you receive a fork with QC issues they'll take care of you, especially if you buy it direct from them.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Boissal

Damn, haven't thought of a Manitou fork since I was 12 years old, they were ubiquitous in France back then...
So the Mezzer is a beefier and better performing FOX36 at the same weight and $300 cheaper? Well shit. Thought on going to a 51mm offset vs a 44? Yet another thing I'd never notice?

---

The new Manitou stuff is legit. The head of Hayes' bike division last job was head of R&D at Fox and he's 100% committed to making the best shit out there.

44 mm offset in 29" doesn't seem to be available on the current sale. Interweb tests I've read where people who have ridden the same fork with different offsets on the same bike back-to-back all seem to say that they don't notice a difference.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dantheman

The new Manitou stuff is legit. The head of Hayes' bike division last job was head of R&D at Fox and he's 100% committed to making the best shit out there.

44 mm offset in 29" doesn't seem to be available on the current sale. Interweb tests I've read where people who have ridden the same fork with different offsets on the same bike back-to-back all seem to say that they don't notice a difference.

---

That's what I'm reading too. Considering how non-analytical I am I have no doubt it will make 0 difference for me. That's actually my main concern about the Mezzer, I don't know that I'm capable of setting it up properly, it seems to be the ideal fork for people who are really good at hunting for and feeling small differences in bike behavior. I also wonder if it's too much fork for what I need, several reviews mention that it really shines for heavier riders or people who really charge but it can feel harsh for mere mortals.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Boissal

That's actually my main concern about the Mezzer, I don't know that I'm capable of setting it up properly, it seems to be the ideal fork for people who are really good at hunting for and feeling small differences in bike behavior.

---

That's a legit concern, though I'd argue it applies equally to any Fox GRIP2 fork since they also have lots of adjustables.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Boissal

I also wonder if it's too much fork for what I need, several reviews mention that it really shines for heavier riders or people who really charge but it can feel harsh for mere mortals.

---

Meh, I wouldn't worry there too much, especially if you're seriously considering a 36.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Muggydude

Anybody have a good suggestion for half finger, non-padded gloves? I have padded ones, but they make my hands numb compared to no gloves. I want gloves though for crash protection, chewed my hands up a few times


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

---

Anyone?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Muggydude

Anyone?

---

Can't help for half-fingers but if you're OK with full finger I highly recommend the Free the Powder MTB gloves. Cheap, comfy, indestructible.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Muggydude

Anyone?

---

I use these.

https://www.giro.com/p/zero-cs-road-...100000026.html

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Muggydude

Anyone?

---

Hands up are pretty sweet.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Muggydude

Anyone?

---

I am highly anti half finger gloves. Sorry.

Briefly back to the Shimano RD clutch topic: shifting was meh today so I thought I'd take a look. It was... Ugly. This bike has 1100mi on it, new in April. I've only ever washed it with a hose, and it rarely rains here.

Being curious, I took it all the way apart, exposing the sprag internals for your edification. I managed to clean but not lose any of the tiny roller bearings. If you go that route, it appears that the main cylinder is directional (i.e. it only goes onto the inner hub part one way). The Shimano manual says not to grease the inside, but I found reference to the use of light oil there so I added a few drops.

Reassembly was easy, and the blob of grease I obtained from my LBS should last several more services.

In other news, the chain still hasn't reached .5 on the checker, so I'm impressed by its durability. The Rock n Roll blue I've been using must be ok, even though it pretty much falls off after 20 mi. I've been carrying a tiny bottle and reapplying on longer rides. After this der service and a good cleaning, I've switched to EP Ultra, which has been really good on my road bikes. Maybe it will last longer, or maybe it will just get filthy.Attachment 335402Attachment 335403

I’ll echo some mild frustration with the Shimano clutch after switching to 12 speed XT this season. I’ve been cleaning/regreasing it was every couple hundred miles which isn’t a big deal but you can’t neglect this.

I have a couple 11 speed GX derailleurs with clutches that work perfectly after thousands of miles - never had to touch it - just sayin’.

That’s my only complaint about the XT 12 speed but it’s definitely a significant one.

Chain wear on the XT 12 speed is definitely impressive. Almost no stretch after about 700 miles.

I’m very curious why SRAM can make a zero maintenance clutch derailleur and Shimano’s need to be fucked with regularly.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

I've never had a Shimano clutch look like the one above - only had to open them up if something broke inside (only 2, so not big sample group). Are you all seeing them look that contaminated often?

Is there a way to make the SRAM type 3 (12-speed) clutch stronger?

^ El Chup, you’re at the whim of the SRAM manufacturing on how tight the clutch is. They come off the line in various stages of stiffness. If it’s really loose I’d have your shop warranty it.
As for Shimano 12s clutches, in my small sample size, the ones I opened, most of them that look that bad.

Do you ^^ get a sort of red rust in the Shimano clutch ? IME red rust was pretty common in the spragg clutches used in all kinds of printers, we would replace the clutch if we had the part with us or just clean & regrease to get it going if we didn't have a part

So the clutch in my 11spd shimano is fine after 2 or 3yrs, is it just the 12spds that fail ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Boissal

Can't help for half-fingers but if you're OK with full finger I highly recommend the Free the Powder MTB gloves. Cheap, comfy, indestructible.

---

Cut to 3/4


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

That’s actually my plans ordered FTP gloves and will cut the fingers


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums