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Too lazy to search but I know y'all have linked videos. Fall a bunch of trees for firewood(only heat source) but was out 4wheeling this weekend and had to cut out a bunch of trees which was mostly easy with relief cuts etc but came on a 15in dia leaner that was tied into maybe 5-6 other trees. I had a strategy to cut it out but one guy was nervous. Only dealt with this once or twice before. Advice from the collective?
Hard to tell without seeing it. Got a picture? Leaners should make a person nervous.
Tough to say without seeing it, but my strategy is usually to make a cut to relieve tension somewhere that feels safe. Ideally somewhere where I can stand behind a tree so if the leaner pops in an unexpected direction, I'm semi protected. But I usually end up making quite a few cuts - start low and work my way up the tree.Quote:
Originally Posted by lifelinksplit
Borrowed my neighbors shitty Husqvarna 445 to trim a few tree limbs.
Fawk I need to just purchase my own MS250 Sthil.
Was the chain sharp?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
They are both piss ant saws with the edge going to the Husqi for power.
If you are going out to buy your own the best thing to think of is which saw is carried by the closest saw shop, not big box, and buy that one. You might need some service and parts.
Also, all this talk of “leaners” on this thread has me thinking:
1. Ya’ll, be careful out there. Don’t be a Jerry.
2. Go buy some wedges.
3. If it’s a residential situation involving structures, just hire someone with the right equipment, knowledge, and bonding.
I was raised by 4 generations of timber fallers, have two saws sitting in the garage, and cut all my own firewood, but guess who has an appointment coming up with the arborist to take care of the birch tree hanging over the neighbors house?
PS. A while back there was a picture of a broken tree about halfway up. That’s called a widow maker. Don’t let it live up to its namesake.
Thanks for the replies guys. I wasnt trying to minimize the concern over the leaner. It makes me nervous as hell esp since I had cut a few that day that had some energy built up when I cut them. I had planned on using a winch line to help mitigate where the tree went. As well as what was mentioned i.e. starting low and working up as it allowed. It was a mess and I really didnt want to gave to deal with it which I luckily didnt have to.
I have a Husky 350 and 372XP. Shouldn't be a problem for the 445. The 445 is more saw than the 350. I cut up 30"diam maple storm casualty no problem with the 350. Though if it was oak I would have brought the 372 to the fight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm Hood
One observation. I wasn't able to get my chain sharpened for this so I bought a Stihl chain from the local hardware store. It didn't cut well at all. Not sure if Stihl is dumbing down these chains but went to another store carrying the same chain in Husky and after the swap it cut better. Normally buy the Oregon shop cut chain but I have to say for the smaller saw and 18" bar Husky chain works as well or better than the Oregon.
On sale now for $299 at Sthil dealers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Sorry for calling it a piss ant. Those saws are a good size to serve a lot of needs.
Having the right chain on is so important. I like saws big enough to run full-skip chisel, because the cut well. However, I only get away with it because I have access to a chain grinder. Putting that chain on a littler saw though won’t cut for shit.
A lot of the Stihl in the package chains are full comp and round file because it’s better for little saws and hand sharpening.
https://www.husqvarna.com/uk/forest/...in-a-few-tips/
On the whole block and pickup technique, I have never seen a professional faller or arborist do it, so it might just not be the right way to do it.
Does using regular (vs high test) fuck up a Stihl? If so I never knew. I guess you get ethanol in regular that you don't get in higher octane.
Guy who looked at mine for service told me mine was toast. It is running and cutting ok. He told me give it a minute and it will die. It's about 2 years old. Not too many hours I guess.
No offense taken. The 350 is a consumer saw and really easy to handle. The 445 Rancher is very similar. I prefer to buck and limb a softer wood tree with the smaller saw even if I do lose a bit of time on the big sections as I find I'm putting down the big 372 more often. It depends on the wood though, as the smaller saw struggles through oak and hornbeam.
I always use premium in my saws during cutting season. I'm not big on cutting in winter so I store them with the Husky gas in a can stuff over the winter. If I need to use them in winter I just run more thru. It's not cheap but cheaper than paying for a carb rebuild in the spring.Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvey44
I just bought a ms250 to replace a 445 that needs a new carb and ignition work that I don’t have time for right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm Hood
Both are piss ants -> but that’s the point. A lightweight saw saves a lot of energy when you are in smaller wood or clearing brush. I don’t mind bending over a little more when it means lugging around 10bs less saw.
Absolutely try to run ethanol free premium gas in all your 2stroke engines.
Ethanol really lowers the engine hours.
Truth.Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm Hood
Ethanol free makes a gigantic difference. It comes higher octane where I am that regular UL, but I don’t think small engines recognize a benefit. They sure do from avoiding ethanol blends.
I think Stihl recommends 89 octane minimum. I have fairly easy access to ethanol free 91 octane, so I always buy that and add Sta-bil to it. I haven't had any issues keeping it up to at least a year.Quote:
Originally Posted by mooseknuckle
I used to drain tanks and run dry in the winter, but I quit doing that with the ethanol free, stabilized gas. Anyone see any need for draining with good fuel?
Same here. Though I try, with mixed results, to remember to drain the saw and run it dry during the winter.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Wasn’t aware of minimum recommended octane.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
I only use stabil at the end of the season to tide over mixed fuel I’m not going to readily use in 3-4 months. Try to run them dry, but don’t think it really matters if winterized with stabil or similar.
Knock on wood - have had zero carb problems since exclusively using non-ethanol gas in tractor and saws/small engine equipment. Going on 5+ years with the above protocol and no problems after a series of disappointments leading up to that as a result of my laziness in not seeking out the right gas.
My local Stihl dealer - they tend to serve the loggers and arborists around - was keen on using Stihl's pre-mix fuel if the saw is to sit. It ain't cheap, but they recommended it over the saw sitting dry. Is it legit? Dunno yet.
My two saws just had their chains sharpened, so I'm anxious to get back out and finish felling some small trees on the property. I'll get some 2-stroke power tools stoke soon.
http://bcforestsafe.org/training/fal.../training.html the BC fallers training vids are probably your best source of how-to in clear concise English ( buddy doesnt even say eh) no crackerese or depending on god to keep you safe
if you read the free manual that come with your saw it tells you to use 89 octane premium, if you need to run premium in a vehical that will cost you alot per year but in a lawnmower/ saw/ snowblower its a VERY small amount of money per year to run premium, as opposed to getting a carb rebuilt so I run premium always.
If I didnt use the 10 0r 20 liters of fuel in the jerry can its now winter I ain't gona use it instead of storing it I thro it in an empty truck dilute with RUG the truck don't care if there is some premix oil, so I turn my fuel over very often
all the Sthil are orange & grey, all the husky are plain orange, all the Jonsered are red, all the models from one maker look exfuckingzactly the same and the numbers don't mean shit to someone who doesnt know saws so a homeowner saw looks just like an industrial grade saw, if you want a goer that will rip and last forever go industrial and IME I need google to figure it out if a saw is a goer or a dog, often the model #'s people quote are not the goers
For winter storage I would spalsh a litte stabil in the tank run it a bit and dump out the excess
For better or worst, I’m still using av fuel in my small carburetor engines: generator, blower, saws, weedwacker. The saws and the genie get some use in the wet season. I’ve left mixed av fuel in a saw all winter and it fired right up and ran well afterwards. Other that the bottled pre-mix, it’s the only good source of non-ethanol fuel around. I don’t feel great that it’s leaded fuel, but...
I read on the can of bottled premix that it is stabil for 2 years after opening the can. Another reason to pay for it.
The reliability of all my small engines has increased significantly thanks to that stuff.
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I prefer to leave the saw with a full tank of non ethanol stabilized fuel. Otherwise condensation could get inQuote:
Originally Posted by Bobcat Sig
Timberridge did you try taking the rakers down on the still chain?
B-cat, 100% on the fuel-in-a-can stuff for overwintering. A carburetor is a terrible thing to waste.Quote:
Originally Posted by cat in january
CIJ, I did not...but good idea. I'll lay the Stihl and Husky chain side by side and see if I can tell the difference.
I recently picked up an Atlas 80V electric from Harbor Freight, they had it bundled with a lawnmower and I needed one anyway so got them both. So far it's been pretty useful but the chain it came with sucked (big surprise). I picked up a new bar and chain and it has been great for cleaning up downed stuff and small trees around my property. The lawnmower is pretty nice too, RWD for the win ;) Battery life is decent, the thing is pretty light so it's easy to handle for a dumbass like me and I don't have to deal with any of these ethanol gas problems anymore that have ruined every small engine I've had in the last 10 years.