PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

seriously, just mount around the old holes.

i do like the use of a transparency to spot hole conflicts.

I'm a bit surprised that the attack and griffon front holes are exactly the same distance from boot center.

I had a similar conflict with the front two holes of a Pivot toe toe piece overlapping with existing holes. I used some threaded inserts to make up the majority of the space and had some epoxy and fiberglass fill a small crescent on one side. They were fine for years until I pulled the bindings off this winter. I clamped the skis down and used my drill press to keep the bit from wandering into the old hole. I chucked the bit real short so it didn't flex

You can find larger outer diameter inserts online which will totally cover the old hole. Or for the hassle you can just mount back a cm

Anyone have a paper template for a Marker titanium 1200? Getting my neighbor into skiing and he picked up some Mantras at the ski swap. They're no longer indemnified, but they look like they're in good shape.

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Originally Posted by Flyoverland Captive

I'd go back a cm; you will not notice it skiing. Seriously.

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x2
...sorry, doubling down on the advice not suggesting -2!

I go hole edge to hole edge 1cm when needed (not center to center)

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Originally Posted by 1000-oaks

My local old-school harware store happened to have them (I bought all they had), but they are rare for sure. I'll post when I find an online source. Brass should work fine too, just gotta make sure they're #12AB. #12A has fewer threads per inch and isn't close enough to ski binding threads.

Stainless is easier to find, but would be a lot tougher to cut and grind down, and probably wouldn't tap if your new hole overlaps the old. (It's too hard compared to the ski material, and would push the tap sideways and cut an oval hole.)

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Would something like this work? Not marketed as AB screws but it says #12 and in the specs thread type is Coarse? I'm giving myself a headache delving deep into the world of fasteners.

Edit: I'm a moron and forgot to attach the link. These are what I'm talking about. https://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman...Screws/3646288

When using an insert, you should probably go with whatever thread it is and match head shapes of the binding screw. Sometimes that might mean sanding it down on a belt sander or a grinder

I'm fine with flattening the tips of those sheet metal screws but I guess I'm looking for screw thread advice. Would something like what I posted work if I knocked down the points to match to profile of a binding screw?

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Originally Posted by DJSapp

Anyone have a paper template for a Marker titanium 1200? Getting my neighbor into skiing and he picked up some Mantras at the ski swap. They're no longer indemnified, but they look like they're in good shape.

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This should do it, unless they have goofy piston BS.

Attachment 199909

^^+1. I used that template recently on an M20 series with great success.

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Originally Posted by John_B

Would something like this work? Not marketed as AB screws but it says #12 and in the specs thread type is Coarse? I'm giving myself a headache delving deep into the world of fasteners.

Edit: I'm a moron and forgot to attach the link. These are what I'm talking about. https://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman...Screws/3646288

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Hard to know what coarse-threaded means in terms of thread per inch... There are type AB sheet metal screws which closely match binding screws (#12-14) and there are type A ones which don't match as well (#12-11).
I have no idea what the ones you linked are. And I also very much regret falling in the rabbit hole that is fastener sizing...

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Originally Posted by Boissal

And I also very much regret falling in the rabbit hole that is fastener sizing...

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Yeah, there is an unbelievable amount of information out there.

Is it safe to go ahead and mount bindings without my boots in hand? My boots are at my house in North Carolina and I'm down here at my house in Florida. My Line Supernatural 108 skis and Rossi Axial 3 bindings arrive Saturday so I hope to mount them up before we drive up to NC in 1.5 weeks to hopefully ski (if the temps drop back down).

I know how to find the centerline and I have 2 sets of 2 different paper templates from 2 different websites and I've cross-checked them and scaling is spot on and both show the exact same hole locations. My Nordica Cruise 110 boots are 28.5 with a sole length of 325. I don't have them in front of me to double check if the center mark on the boot is exactly centered. Does anyone know if Nordica is good about this?

I have a lot more free time here than I will when I arrive to NC so I'd prefer to do it here and then adjust bindings up there but I also don't want to screw up my mount. You think it's ok if I do everything by the numbers or do I really need to wait until I have the boots to check the reference line?

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Red7

Is it safe to go ahead and mount bindings without my boots in hand? My boots are at my house in North Carolina and I'm down here at my house in Florida. My Line Supernatural 108 skis and Rossi Axial 3 bindings arrive Saturday so I hope to mount them up before we drive up to NC in 1.5 weeks to hopefully ski (if the temps drop back down).

I know how to find the centerline and I have 2 sets of 2 different paper templates from 2 different websites and I've cross-checked them and scaling is spot on and both show the exact same hole locations. My Nordica Cruise 110 boots are 28.5 with a sole length of 325. I don't have them in front of me to double check if the center mark on the boot is exactly centered. Does anyone know if Nordica is good about this?

I have a lot more free time here than I will when I arrive to NC so I'd prefer to do it here and then adjust bindings up there but I also don't want to screw up my mount. You think it's ok if I do everything by the numbers or do I really need to wait until I have the boots to check the reference line?

Thanks!

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You can mount them without the boots as long as you know the BSL. And you do. You need to adjust the bindings to the boots before skiing, obviously

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Originally Posted by Jethro

You can mount them without the boots as long as you know the BSL. And you do. You need to adjust the bindings to the boots before skiing, obviously

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Awesome! Can anyone confirm if the BSL centerline is indeed centered on Nordica Cruise 110 boots? If so I'm good to go as I did a dry run with my paper templates and they are dead on with what I've confirmed on multiple websites to be my 325 sole length. Now I just need to pick up a 6 pack for this weekend's mounting.

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Originally Posted by Red7

Awesome! Can anyone confirm if the BSL centerline is indeed centered on Nordica Cruise 110 boots? If so I'm good to go as I did a dry run with my paper templates and they are dead on with what I've confirmed on multiple websites to be my 325 sole length. Now I just need to pick up a 6 pack for this weekend's mounting.

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I'm confused. Even if the center mark is mis-centered, wouldn't you go with true boot center anyway? So why care if Nordica pooched it.

Good point. Not sure what I was thinking. Skis were delivered and I'm heading home. Thanks!

I just finished drilling the holes in my Line Supernaturals and it went really well for the first time except for one screw up. Layout wise all 16 of the holes are absolutely spot on as I kept checking everything throughout with Vernier calipers. However, on my 15th hole I guess the drill bit heated up enough to soften the adhesive on the tape I had wrapped around the bit and I went a little too deep leaving a bulge in the base below that hole. It didn't blow through thankfully.

What's the best way of fixing this? I thought about just gently hammering the bulge back in but didn't know if I should heat it up somehow (iron?). Should I use something specific to fill that hole that will bond well with the base material and wood to make that hole sound again?

All and all I'm stoked with how easy the install was and learned my lesson to either spend for the proper bits or get a couple of these 3.5mm bits as the first 14 holes (and 16th) went smooth until the bit got hot.

Thanks!

If you hot wax them that dimple will probably dissappear, you could put some kind of filler in the bottom of that hole with some glue before putting the screw in

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

If you hot wax them that dimple will probably dissappear, you could put some kind of filler in the bottom of that hole with some glue before putting the screw in

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I got the dimple to flatten out by using a flat piece of metal and a hammer. You can hardly even tell.

What do you suggest for a filler, epoxy? Wood filler?

Also, I asked on a forum (can't remember if it was here or epicski) if I should use a 3.5 or 4.1mm bit and was told by 2 people that the Line Supernatural 108 doesn't have wood so 3.5 is the one and I don't need to tap it. However, when drilling I noticed a very thin piece of metal and researching more, I confirmed that it's mostly wood but does have a thin titanial metal matrix. It's very thin but do I still need to bump up to a 4.1 bit and do I need to get a tap. Looks like 5/32" is extremely close to 4.1mm. Should I use the 4.1 the full 9.5mm depth or just go thru the metal which is close to the surface since it's all wood below that? Is a tap necessary with such a thin layer of metal?

Thanks guys!

In light of the metal layer, I would use a 4.1 x 9.5 bit and definitely tap, unless you like volcanoes. The ski should have markings that indicate the appropriate bit size.

As has been stated earlier, the $17 stepped bits are worth every penny.

Others may disagree, but if you're using that deep hole, I'd just fill it with wood glue and insert screw (Titebond III is great). And that's after tapping of course.

Yeah that's the strange thing, this ski has no markings on it for proper bit size but given the metal I'll go 4.1 and tap it. I thought I read manufacturers were now required to put that info on the skis. They do say made in China and the centerline marking is off by about 2mm so good thing I didn't trust that.

the hole is still very usable so you just want to take up space at the bottom with glue or epoxy or whatever you used to mount the rest of the screws and some dowel or wood shavings or whatever, the thing you wana be careful of is putting too much filler in the hole and pushing the base out again

Tape markers or even real drill collars always slip at some point

Anyone have mount issues with Dynastar Cham 108 2.0s? I'm now 4 days on them with 1 topsheet delam + broken ski on day 3 and another topsheet delam on day 4 after warranty replacement.

Mission accomplished. Bindings are mounted and even with my one screw up they turned out virtually perfect. I will never have a shop do it ever again (can't imagine someone getting the holes more perfectly aligned even with a jig) but I will invest in the correct bit and tap for next time. I tapped them with the screws and it worked fine but I had to use a good bit of down force and work slowly with the drill to keep the holes from volcanoing. They turned out great but it was nerve-racking without the proper tools. The screws bit really nicely so those bindings aren't going anywhere. Thanks for the help!