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super fun LB session last night at sunset. knee to waist high, clean, long waves. Had a couple rides from the lineup all the way to the beach.
Can really feel the ease of paddling after working on my arm strength on the 6 3 the past 2 weeks. Hoping for some little peaks tonight that I can take that board out on, but if not will prob be another LB evening.
nice to see your stoke coming along jtran. ride anything and everything you can.
tiny here. maybe monday. road cycling and skiing till then.........
rog
tiny.
Last night was my first chance to get in the water all week, so I took it. 3.4@11 from 300 and 1.2@12 from 200 was just not enough to get any of the spots really working with the tide dropping out. Well, there is one spot I think would have been pretty good, but theat was a little too deep into shark country, and too far away from my fellow man, to venture into alone. So, I did what I do and climbed down a wet, muddy, crumbling sand stone cliff so I could stretch on the beach. Sure glad that rope has been around this winter, as the last cut back is basically a leap of faith. Surf had a few peaks that were maybe stomach high, but the suck on the reef pretty much made it too weird to ride. But I got a few at least. Even made a decent top turn or two. But basically, there was no surf, but as I rinsed off my suit laying on my back in a tide pool looking at the sky, I was pretty happy to get a day in the ocean. Outlook is pretty bleak up here.
:smile:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
teeny weeny here south coast maine. pretty tho with nice temps. skiing north is/has been fab, and the road bike is seeing some miles. monday looks to offer up a bump in the thigh/waist+ range. probably head ogt way to maximize the energy and catch the morning 2 hour before till low.
mt washington ski tomorrow:biggrin:
rogblog
Tiny, no surf for me past few days. Thanks for the small surf and nothing to do, I sold a board on craigslist yesterday, have 2 more posted and cleaning up a few more to post those for sale. Pray for surf so I don't sell all my boards
late report. surfed 3 sessions in a 24 hour period between monday and tuesday am in york. waist to head high with good juice due to some shifted sand from all of the big storms this winter. york has a new attitude and i'm digging it, big time.:)
monday afternoon had me cutting my workshift 3 hours short as the wind had switched and bouy jumped up to 7 feet. what a pleasant surprise. all 3 sessions just had one other guy out. unreal. don't know what the fuck is going on round here. maybe all the maine surfers went on vaca together.
loving the new board. seems to work well no matter what bump comes in of any size. definitely digging it quad vs thruster. actually rode the nose on it through an inside section yesterday am before stepping back with a nice lil floater to finish it off. my gf was like, "what tha?":D
more fun surf coming saturday-wednesday. gonna be waterlogged after that stretch........
rog
Surf here has been meager at best. Chest high or so. The winds yesterday were blowing hard north, so I found a point that was channeling them well. Crowd was thin so I decided to give it a go. Jumped offer top o the point like I have done so many times before. Not sure exactly what happened but the wave I jumped over seem to have caught me and pulle me down a hole and slammed my left leg hard against the reef. My leash must have gotten wrapped as it snappe even though my board was in my hands. This morning my right arm is sore as well. Can't squat. Bending it hurts too much. Fuck my quad hurts. Been surfing for 26 years and nothin like that has ever happened. Just goes to show you the ocean is king.
The really fucked thing about it was the waves were decent cleaned lined up chest higher that I was picking off. Got three and headed to the beach knowing it was worse than I had hoped. Feels a bit better this morning but las night was rough.
Out for a few days at least.
that sux. sounds like a slot wave? have underestimated that place, and other SC points N of dav a few times myself, water acts strangely so close to cliffs...very powerful. coming off a painful rib bruising myself, sustained in a deep water rinse cycle on a reef where I got all twisted up.
nice combo of long period swells showing in my favorite sandy coves the last two evenings.
last night was crossed up from the wind swell, but there were super steep OH drops into smooth inside water where the wave went from head to waist to knee through the foam zone all the way to shore. love me some big and shifty spring conditions like that, you can really line up some unique sections that bend and warp, especially if there are nearby pockets/structure/headlands to further confuse things and make it so you don't have to sit in the wind.
monday night caught the peak of this latest NW groundswell at a creek mouth cove with lots of wind protection. whole beach is probably 200 yards wide, not a ton of room here, 6-7 people is too many. saw two cars/surfers leaving, not surprising since most surf the tide push here and it was just starting to ebb. there was still plenty of water and I ended up with the place to myself. worked some hollow chest-high lefts into the mouth, they were short but turnable and easy to end with a big stomp down. normally the rights off the same peak are the ticket but they are so fast and I had my hands full just making them let alone surfing them...
looks like an interesting weekend ahead for swell...
sorry to hear that ottime, that sucks. heal up.
had some knee/waist high choppy windswell last night. with a larger SW coming in over the weekend decided to go out to paddle in the chop and try to catch anything that came through on the 6 3. Had a couple ok rides, and one real good left that is probably my best wave on the 6 3 to date. Have enough speed on that board as a quad to get around a section. No real "turns" to speak of, but felt really good to make a fun bottom turn, head back up the face, then dig the rail in as I got around the section.
Been really thinking about picking up a fish for this summer. Really enjoying the feel and turning on the shorter board, as well as the speed on the face. Any suggestions on length for me? I'm 5 8 155ish. Go shorter on the fish than a normal shortboard, but how much shorter?
^^^^2-5". You could go even shorter, but that gets you as far as 5'10". Unless you have silly money to spend, I'd see what is out there. If you buy a board cheap, you call sell it cheap at a small loss, or rental fee. The fish and fish like world is pretty diverse.
PP. Say about five miles north of the slot. Can't really understand what happened where I was, but there is now way I could get slammed this hard on the bottom coming off that point jump in. It is pretty deep out there. Maybe in the slot proper whilst riding. Anyway, I was jumping in where I knew there rocks, and shallow, but it was pretty weird how I got so slammed. I under estimated the wave coming through, should have climbed back up, let it pass and have an easy jump in between sets. But it did not drive me forward into rocks, but rather may a hole in the water. Oh, well.
Quad contusion from my e-research. Mild to Moderate. Strolled the son several miles today, so I don't think there is any fracture. Icing it now and resting while he naps. Hope I can be in the water by Friday, because things do look potentially fun this weekend.
PP you at Rodeo? Plenty of options up around the city as you describe it. Always though a lot of the potential breaks were under utilized. Sure, Rockaway draws a small crows, but so many empty coves up there.
Vibes dude, heal up quick....Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
Any equipment damage?
Looks like something on tap for this weekend. SSW broken up by some W and maybe some NW. This might keep me from Mammoth.
Injuries suck, heal up ottime. I had a weird situation like that in mainland mex trying to jump into the lineup. Still can't really explain how it happened but my shoulder got driven directly into the rocks as soon as I jumped on my board. Maybe it was the famous 'undertoe' that grabbed me
Only surfed once this week but it was the best session in a while. Caught a few waves in the shorebreak with my daughter and then paddled my son into his first wave ever, 2 years old and already a soul surfer. Unfortunately, not sure how but had a setback with my knee and no surf for this guy. I'm actually thinking about tapping out and going under the knife, fark.
Absolutely none, which is odd, because I thought I felt my board get raked across the rocks as well. As I said, it never left my hands, so you can kind of feel the bang. No ding, spiderwebs, stress, not even a scratch. Which is good, because I can heal, but my board would need fixing.Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerWhore7
Probably a good call...Quote:
Originally Posted by Long duc dong
...word is this storm will fizzle and crossed up sunny beach breaks in OC sounds way better. Please report back.
Swell is pumping here in SC. No camera w me today but the Lane is well overhead. Ocean surface is glass. A little S lump, and tide, but plenty of surf. Bet spots up the coast are going today. It's like a spring powder day. Might give the leg a go later on some mello waves. Teh suc this leg thing. Auntie is in town to watch the boy. Swell is good. Leg is bum. Git sum.
Drove by same spot last night and holy sheet was indicators going off. Gonna give the leg a try today. Just not sure if I'll head north into the swell, or south into the shadow.
I just read this thread all the way through. Super cool to read as the seasons ebb and flow over the years. So much info to absorb, I feel like a sponge trying to suck it all up.
In the end this surfing thing feels like a curse. As of the last couple of years i have been trying to pull my head out of the frozen dangerous world of skiing and try to get one of these real jobs i keep hearing about. Ended up moving to maui and now all i can think about is being in the water! Salt water blasting the sinus, hot sun further cooking my back to new deeper shades of brown. Going back to alaska in three weeks is going to be harsh...
What is a daily experience worth sitting at a key board under florescent lights?
/1st world problems
My humble contribution to this trove of knowledge.
This is a life long local. He said this wave is very rare to break. This is is first time on it. Said it was 'heavy'. Looks super human to me.
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Body boarders like to get rad too
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About to be bombed
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Mini barrel
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Love this guys head bob
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Honolua in background
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Waiting, waiting...
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Shark bait
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So what are the pros and cons of wind surfing versus kite boarding?
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Got to watch this pro film shoot at Ho'okipa yesterday
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Wife ass shot and daughter loving the beach life!
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These guys look to be shredding pretty hard!
Kites use ropes and you need to manage those. I do t wind anything but my friends who do say the kite is easier. But the sail works better in bigger waves as the wave will block the wind once you are in (generally an onshore) and allow you to really surf.
Just hot out of the lane and leg is good. So stoked I went out. Surf is decent but not epic. Chest to a few feet OH. Occasional slot wave and indicators would get good, especially on the bigger sets. Did not get a ton but am confident about my leg. Actually would stick around to surf tomorrow if the nw was not picking up. Will go ski instead.
Good weekend in Orange County.
Got at nice 3 hour session in from 3-6 on Friday. I bit of windbump, but less than expected. As the tide rose and the swell filled in it went from shoulder high to slightly overhead, with pretty good shape. The smaller ones were actually a bit better, so I sat inside and picked off the shoulder high tweeners. It cleaned up as the afternoon went on.
Saturday I went to Uppers/Cottons. I surfed from 3-6, and it was better than Newport, a bit overhead with good shape. The lefts at Barbedwires were lining up well, going for 80 to 100 yards, although you had to wait a bit. Cottons was pumping, several feet overhead and clean, but super crowded which was why I opted for b-wires. I eventually shifted to southern Cottons and picked off a few rights, before paddling back to barbedwires. The shoulder high ones at b-wires were lining up, and the overhead sets were often closing out, but occasionally a head high+ set would line up for a 100 yard left. Those were worth waiting for. The wind really did not seem to bother it at all, it's amazing how you feel the wsw on the walk down but it does not damage the surf too much. Was going to try an evening session in Newport tonight, but got too lazy, that and my back/shoulders are thrashed from the last two days. There are 3-hour session, and then there are the 3-hour sessions where it feels like you are paddling the whole time. Despite some lulls, the last two days were the latter.
Hope everyone else got the goods this weekend.
saturday and this am small york. thigh high+. micro mini driver fun with clean conditions. had one right this am that was a session maker. almost didn't bother to go out at all due to the high tide and short period. worked out. beautiful day today. could be a small but active week round here.
glad to see you back out ott^^^
rog
19.4'@12....if this wind dies, then I might try taping my knee up and winning one for the gipper. I have a weak spot for big windswells
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Don't forget that thing is raw. As in all the 11,10,9,8,7,6,5 and 4 second aspect of a swell generating right on top of you. I'm hoping things settle down up here by Wed as the next groundswell arrives. It could be good wind swell in the AM with off shores and decent groundswell in the PM with cross shores.
Carpathian, nice pics of maui,,,, was that Slaughterhouse bch on the west of Honolua?
I'm not a windsurfer, but when I've been in the waves, I feel far more comfortable attached to a kite than I can imagine
what it would be like to manage a board/mast/boom/sail when things go to hell,,,,
with a kite flying over head you can put it in "neutral" and let the shitstorm subside and then regroup, collect your board and
get back to riding, downside of riding waves with kites if you drop it in the waves, you're likely going to be tearing up 1 to 2k
of gear.
Lanes is one of those places that I've wanted to try since I've been coming to Maui, I can spend hours just sitting on the bluff
watching the waves, but I've yet to brave the reef ledge launch and the urchins to get to the break,nice wave but not so
user friendly.
so, from here, surfing is addicting, but surf+wind is crack, Thanks for your photos,savor your beach time!