The chainsaw thread...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by claymond

Heh that shits so frustrating. On the idle, is there possibly an air leak anywhere on the intake side? Does it ever over rev at high rpm for no reason? Ie, not cuz you're running out of gas.

Clutch issues, idk. If you're replacing the clutch and clutch drum and not trying to run the saw when the chain is bound or stuck, or really cutting in a way that's super choppy/skipping, I don't know. Hell, even if you are abusive, three clutches in a winter isnt right. A crank issue causing clutches to fail seems reasonable, but I haven't ever had a chronic clutch issue like that

---

It does sporadicly over rev and also doesnt seem to hold a low idle tune well at all. Haven't checked for a intake side air leak, but if it is a crank issue, wouldn't that also maybe cause an intake air leak as the bottom end is part of the intake on 2 stroke? I'm new to small 2 stroke engines, but if there's is an issue with the crank bearing, could that cause an air leak/sporadic over rev? The collective is a great resource, but does anyone have an opinion on other decent saw forums?

^ try https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php

And https://www.arboristsite.com/community/

There’s also the FB group “chainsaw repair, mods, and all things chainsaw!”

The eating clutches is an interesting problem,

isnt the clutch on a Husky on the outside of the chain ?

whereas on a Sthil the clutch runs on theinside of the chain ?

something to think about

some of you might consider that a chainsaw is a super hi-performance engine

what a chain saw is not

is a lawnmower engine with handles

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BeardedClam

It does sporadicly over rev and also doesnt seem to hold a low idle tune well at all. Haven't checked for a intake side air leak, but if it is a crank issue, wouldn't that also maybe cause an intake air leak as the bottom end is part of the intake on 2 stroke? I'm new to small 2 stroke engines, but if there's is an issue with the crank bearing, could that cause an air leak/sporadic over rev? The collective is a great resource, but does anyone have an opinion on other decent saw forums?

---

I guess that's maybe possible, but I find it very hard to believe it would run at all if a crank shaft bearing was so shot air was coming past both the seal and the bearing. I also don't think a crank bearing bad enough to cause a wobble that breaks clutches wouldn't have seized long ago. But I'm not a Stihl master mechanic, at all. Look at those forums Meadow Skipper posted for potential reasons the clutch is breaking and try to fix that, then deal with the tuning issues is my advice. Good luck man

Not my saw and I do not know the seller, but anybody looking for a 090AV? This is in western Nevada county, CA. They’ve had it listed for at least a few weeks.

https://goldcountry.craigslist.org/t...108436725.html

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bodywhomper

Not my saw and I do not know the seller, but anybody looking for a 090AV? This is in western Nevada county, CA. They’ve had it listed for at least a few weeks.

https://goldcountry.craigslist.org/t...108436725.html

---

:eek:

Ha! At least with that saw, you know there's no plastic parts.

thats a big fucking saw ^^ to handle & I notice there is no anti kick back mechanism and buddy wants 1200$

Yeah. I had the same reaction. I’ve wondered if that’s a reasonable price.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bodywhomper

Yeah. I had the same reaction. I’ve wondered if that’s a reasonable price.

---

An MS661 goes goes for about $1500CAD new. A magnum 880 (120CC) goes for north of $2000. And this for saw tech that is not 40+years old, and is almost half the weight.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BeardedClam

Question for the tuners...

I've got a pretty well used 440 thats come into my possession recently. Saw runs good when it wants to run, but keeps breaking clutches, went through 3 this winter. I don't feel like i'm really slamming it into and out of use, but who knows.

It was pretty beat when i got it, and have since put a new cylinder/piston(heavy scoring on the old) as well as a new carb and accutrements. Right not the LI is maybe 1/2-3/4 a turn out, but the IA is all the way in, and seems to need to be there to keep the chain from spinning. I'm new to small motors, as well as carbed motors. Is that right? Between the clutch and carb problem, im wondering if theres possibly a bottom end issue. Could a bad crank bearing be the cause?

---

Something is majorly wrong. I've been an arborist/tree climber/ residential logger for 46 years. Cluches almost never break, let alone wear out. Clutch springs will occasionally fail, but not often.

Things to check:

Bearing between clutch drum and crankshaft end--make sure it isn't worn out. Look for wobble in the clutch drum. None to minimal is good. Excessive, replace. Cheap part, good to replace. At the least, pack it with a bit of grease. This bearing only gets wear when a saw is idling. When the clutch engages, all parts turn as a unit.

How you use the saw. Don't force it in a cut. Only cut at full throttle. If the chain binds, let off the throttle immediately so as not to smoke the clutch.

A bad crank bearing would most likely have blown out the seal and caused an air leak, which would mean the saw wouldn't idle and run smoothly, and the carb settings wouldn't be where they should be. So, that could be your problem. Pull the muffler, to check for any signs of new scoring on the exhaust side of the piston and the intake side of the cylinder. An air leak can cause a lean condition and make a mess of a piston in no time. hope it ain't happening, but if it is, usually the cylinder will be fine. Any transferred aluminum from the piston can be removed with muiatic acid.

If the crank bearing is so bad that it's the cause of your clutch problems, the saw may be toast. Bottom end repair is neither easy or cheap.

Good luck!

Guys, go to youtube.com/rbtree to see my treework videos... There's some way technical rigging for life support on my last vid...and my "2002 Tree Work" one got me and Wesspur's Dave Stice kinda famous.... a tad....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BCMtnHound

An MS661 goes goes for about $1500CAD new. A magnum 880 (120CC) goes for north of $2000. And this for saw tech that is not 40+years old, and is almost half the weight.

---

When I googled just now, I saw an arboristsite.com thread debating on cost where the asking price was $4500. I can’t tell if people are buying these as a collector piece or for use. There was another chat forum where peeps were bumming that there were only 3 left in NZ.

It seems like it’d be a good saw for milling.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

:eek:

---

That 090 looks to have been rode hard and put away wet! I've never owned one, and the only time I've run one was at a logging show. It was piped, race ported and running on alcy. 24 in bar, and race chain!! Prolly pulling 30 hp. Stock is 9. Wheee!!! But, I've also run Rotax Robert's Predator... two man unlimited hotsaw and the fastest of the lot. 407 pounds! Robert's fastest cut has been 0.7 seconds in 30" cottonwood!!

I have two Husqvarna 3120's. One is mated to a stumpgrinder that will go anywhere. Pain to use, but I can charge close to $200/hr to use it. The other was woods ported way back in 2002, and is probably pulling about 13 horsepower.

a couple of fallers who were smaller guys ( like 5'8" ) have told me they run smaller saws that are ported so they get more power while lifting less weight

I’m sure that 090 would do well with some modifications.

I’m considering doing a muffler mod on my ms241. Just need to figure the best/simple way.

I modded the muffler on my ms361 and it was super simple. People on arboristsite had worked it out to a simple formula that included location and size of new hole and the spark arrestor sku to buy that perfectly fits over the hole. I have not seen anything spelled out as clearly for the ms241.

I hope you are a large strong person, its 10lbs heavier than the largest saws on the market right now which is a LOT of weight to lug around, its got no anti-kickback mechanism, old tech, older everything, probably burns more fuel than a modern saw anything breaks where do you get the part ... good luck with all that

why do you want to modify your 241 ?

I ain’t buying that 090. I was just sharing the listing in case somebody here would be interested. It still seems like it’d work out well attached to a mill.

The ms241... my interest in modding the muffler is to get more power. Especially if it’s a simple mod. It’s my go-to saw when I’m on my little property felling, thinning and clearing out small trees; especially if I’m doing it for many hours. I get worn out much quicker doing that same work with my ms361.

I have plenty of use for the ms361, too; currently, bucking and noodling. My little property is wood heavy for its size.

Chainsaws make terrible mills, but if a 90cc saw is sitting in the shop lonely, then it could a fun toy with a beam/cant cutter or alaskan mill. But kerf and other cutting efficiencies really highlight the benefits of small portable bandsaw mill.

I can't help but think that old carbureted iron workhorse would make an excellent go-cart project.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BCMtnHound

I can't help but think that old carbureted iron workhorse would make an excellent go-cart project.

---

Fuck yeah!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bodywhomper

I’m sure that 090 would do well with some modifications.

I’m considering doing a muffler mod on my ms241. Just need to figure the best/simple way.

I modded the muffler on my ms361 and it was super simple. People on arboristsite had worked it out to a simple formula that included location and size of new hole and the spark arrestor sku to buy that perfectly fits over the hole. I have not seen anything spelled out as clearly for the ms241.

---

Just add a port..on the side. If there's room, you can buy a deflector for a Husky... I think most any---346---357..372.... Two screws, fits right on.. if you're in fire country, add some screen material. I don't bother, as I work in the Puget Sound lowlands.... for that saw, a 1/2" id hole should be good....keep the existing port, or just enlarge it. That works for most Stihl's, which, by the way, are horribly constricted.. at least since about 2000. Heck, even a 460's single port is a tiny 3/8 to 7/16..all to satisfy the EPA. Now, my woods ported 3120 has twin front firing 1" tubes. Hate the location, can damn near catch dry bark on fire, and does create bad fumes, especially for butt cuts or milling.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BCMtnHound

Chainsaws make terrible mills, but if a 90cc saw is sitting in the shop lonely, then it could a fun toy with a beam/cant cutter or alaskan mill. But kerf and other cutting efficiencies really highlight the benefits of small portable bandsaw mill.

---

True, but they work. My friend, that crafted my awesome cherry live edge fireplace mantle, and a huge kitchen countertop extension, out of black locust, has boatloads of slabs that he's milled. He has an alaskan that will mill up to about 5', and powers it with an 088. You use what you got. And he has it going on! He worked for Seattle Tree Preservation for years, and had an endless supply of woods! I've milled two birches with a borrowed 42" mill. Nice stuff! Here's a link to the images. You'll see a few bowls that my wood turner has given me. as I've supplied him with raw material for years... I have more, but those images are only on my phone....

https://www.flickr.com/photos/rbtree...57713364548216

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b0&oe=5ED44944

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rbtree

Just add a port..on the side. If there's room, you can buy a deflector for a Husky... I think most any---346---357..372.... Two screws, fits right on.. if you're in fire country, add some screen material. I don't bother, as I work in the Puget Sound lowlands.... for that saw, a 1/2" id hole should be good....keep the existing port, or just enlarge it. That works for most Stihl's, which, by the way, are horribly constricted.. at least since about 2000. Heck, even a 460's single port is a tiny 3/8 to 7/16..all to satisfy the EPA. Now, my woods ported 3120 has twin front firing 1" tubes. Hate the location, can damn near catch dry bark on fire, and does create bad fumes, especially for butt cuts or milling.

---

Thanks! That’s exactly what I did for my ms361 (husky deflector with spark screen - Cali foothills). I’ll have to double check, but I’m pretty sure there’s room on the muffler.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BCMtnHound

Chainsaws make terrible mills, but if a 90cc saw is sitting in the shop lonely, then it could a fun toy with a beam/cant cutter or alaskan mill. But kerf and other cutting efficiencies really highlight the benefits of small portable bandsaw mill.
.

---

a chain sawmill eats a lot of wood in the process

up here people will buy a bandsaw mill if they actualy have a need and maybe they got standing timber, they mill the lumber they need and sell the bandsaw mill so someone else can repeat the process, a buddy of mine got all the beams for her post n beam addition like that, some of those stems may have been on crown land ;)

I spoke to two contract portable millers in my area when our utility was dropping over 20 large pine trees in our property because of pine beetle deaths. They both had bandsaw mills, which was their preference to use, but both had AK milling set-ups, too. I think their ak mills get use when it’s too difficult to use their bigger mills.