Cool. Im going shorter
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Cool. Im going shorter
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Great, now I’m on the hunt for some gently used 167.5mm Sweetwings.
I wonder if they"d make some custom 164.7's? Shouldnt cost much. Review says i need the same length on both bikes too
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I’m gonna pioneer the trend of different lengths for each leg, as everyone has a leg that is slightly longer than the other. You heard it here first.
Super tech. Makes complete sense
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Things Leonard Zinn would say...Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
I'm pretty sure I had a beater around-town bike that had different length crank arms, not sure I noticed a difference. Then again, I usually maxed out around 12mph on that thing because the brakes weren't really capable of a sudden stop from faster speeds.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
I snickered.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
I'm going to give 165mm a try. I have really short legs and while my pedal strikes have gotten much fewer on my megatower, they are really violent when i do catch them now. It's not that I've missed a ratchet stroke, it's that I've had my outside pedal down and am coming back to neutral and there is something I need to avoid or slipped a pedal in the air type stuff.
The stuff about cadence was particularly interesting.Quote:
Originally Posted by shirk
Was it?
Very cool thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Ha!Quote:
Originally Posted by buttahflake
Another data point, I am 6'3" 36" legs ~81cm saddle height. I ran 180s for years then got a couple bikes stock with 170s. The short cranks feel better descending and I quickly go used to the climbing. I now have 170s on my FS and cargo bikes, 172.5 on the cross bike and 175 on the hardtail. All work fine. I still pedal strike all the time on the FS (transition sentinel so it is long and low).
Yes, hard science that disproves cadence dogma is "interesting."Quote:
Originally Posted by buttahflake
DT swiss ring nut anyone else had beef getting it out?
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I like that crank length video. Good find.
Clamp the tool in the vice, use the wheel as a huge steering wheel to twist it out. That’s the only way to break it free. A “little” bit of heat helps loosen it up. Don’t overcook it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossymcg
Can anyone recommend some reading on frame geometry? Out of sheer idleness I was reading that it's a bad idea to but drop bars on any old mtb, because the reach is often long. Just curious what's bad about this, which has spiraled into a general curiosity on the impact of various aspects of frame geometry.
You can put drop bars on your old MTN bike. Just get a super tall and short stem to put the drops in the right position for you.
Just go to the bike shop and dig in the boxes of old stems and bars and find a combo that fits.
Mall walker is bringing up a great topic
my 30+ yr old mtn bike has a long stem in the 100mm range so would you not still want a long stem ?
the last old parts bins at the LBS I rummaged thru was full of 100mm long stems
I use normal bars with goofy looking but effective barends on my old touring/ mtnbike
You want a short and tall stem to put drop bars on a mtn bike, because riding on the hoods puts your hands much farther forward.
Or use a trekking bar if you want more hand positions and can keep your mtn bar controls too.
Geeking out should start and end with Sheldon brown
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html
He’s an encyclopedia.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
This guy made it work.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
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