Ask the experts

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Originally Posted by wendigo

what i got:

cranks: raceface aeffect
chainring: 36t narrow/wide cinch
bb: 73mm
chain: sram pc-1170
casette: sram xg1150 10-42 11sp
rd: sram rival 1

what i want:
put on a front derailleur for something like a 52/36 or 34 - basically change this gravel bike ('19 kona sutra ltd) to a gravel & road bike, the geometry works for her for long rides, not racing but 1x leaves something to be desired when out for a 50+ mile road ride.
have different tires etc, but would like more road worthy gearing and i would prefer to not have to change out the whole drivetrain every time we go on a bike packing tour

good god the matrices of which 'standards' work together is a nightmare. any reasonable way to do this?

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Before you go buy a whole 2x group, which as suggested is pretty much what you'll need to do, does the frame even have a configuration that would allow a FD? You'll need cable stops, a seat tube that's round and unobstructed in that area and a certain angle range between the chain stay and seat tube. And clearance to the rear tire for all that shit to fit.

Those all used to be a given on all bikes, but something designed as a 1x might not have them all.

Another option could be a 10-52 cogset with a mtb shifter/derailleur, and keep it 1x.

What's a good cheap bike computer for displaying HR, Speed, wattage, etc. I have a nice Garmin watch for the fancy stuff if I need it, but looking at my wrist when I'm doing intervals is getting old...
I was looking at the iGPSPORT BSC200, seems to be ok and have some basic navigation..

Is there any advantage from ordering directly with fox suspension vs larger online shop? $ame.

Anyone have good/ bad/ other things to say about Hope bottom brackets? Ideally if you're in a wet climate, PNW, BC etc.

I've been having rust issues in wet weather with RF and Shimano, looking for something better sealed. I'm used to paying $30-50 for these other guys, I guess because they are disposable.... before I drop 4x my usual outlay are the Hopes worth it? Or is the whole British weather thing just a gimmick.

Would be on 24mm Shimano spindles, if that matters.

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Originally Posted by Meconium

Is there any advantage from ordering directly with fox suspension vs larger online shop? $ame.

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If the $ is the same, I'd probably order from Fox.
Might make warranty issues easier if they have a record of the transaction.

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Originally Posted by dannynoonan

Anyone have good/ bad/ other things to say about Hope bottom brackets? Ideally if you're in a wet climate, PNW, BC etc.

I've been having rust issues in wet weather with RF and Shimano, looking for something better sealed. I'm used to paying $30-50 for these other guys, I guess because they are disposable.... before I drop 4x my usual outlay are the Hopes worth it? Or is the whole British weather thing just a gimmick.

Would be on 24mm Shimano spindles, if that matters.

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If I'm going to go $$$ on a BB (which I generally do-it's one place where there is a real quality difference between $ & $$$) I'd go with the known best; Chris King or Enduro XD-15 (or Enduro TorqTite if pressfit).

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Originally Posted by toast2266

I'd be willing to buy it, but the price I'd pay would only be slightly over the value of the parts. The frame is essentially worthless. The location of the repair makes me think it probably got damaged in a crash. It's not a super critical area (i.e. if it breaks, you're probably not gonna die), so I'd ride it. Finding out more info about the repair would be nice, but the ad makes it sound like the repair was from a prior owner, so you might not be able to get much info.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

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$2k seems about right then?
$500 used fork
$250 used shock
$250 drivetrain
$250 brakes
$150 used dropper
$500 wheels
etc.

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Originally Posted by grskier

$2k seems about right then?
$500 used fork 3 year old 36 - $300
$250 used shock 3 year old Fox performance - Free to good home
$250 drivetrain 3 year old XT - $250
$250 brakes 3 year old XT - $100
$150 used dropper 3 year old OneUp - $75
$500 wheels 3 year old OEM Rovals - $100
etc.

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Sorry, I'm seeing closer to $1000 in today's market

Shopping new tires for my commuter. Will I die if I run non-TLR road tires tubeless? Rims are tubeless compatible (and currently set up so) and I won't be running silly high pressures.

Also, due to some stock issues I'm considering ordering a 32c for the front and a 30c for rear. Feels weird to run two sizes of road tires but ultimately it's just an OCD issue, right?

Upgrading the groms 24÷ Cannondale Cujo , want to put a front shock on it. Looks like a 26in Manitou Markhour seems to be frequently recommended. Any concerns in adding one of these? It will obv slacken the head angle a bit which is good and the STA which isn't as ideal , but anything else to think about or any better options?

Also changing the crappy 8 speed mech, chain,shifter and and cassette. 11 speed 11-42t w a deore shifter I have sitting around looks good. Any chainline concerns here or should be good to go w an 8 to 11 swap.

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Originally Posted by Roxtar

Sorry, I'm seeing closer to $1000 in today's market

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Agreed

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Road tubeless seems way pickier then MTB, I wouldn’t risk it unless you’re running under 30psi.

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Originally Posted by Dantheman

Shopping new tires for my commuter. Will I die if I run non-TLR road tires tubeless? Rims are tubeless compatible (and currently set up so) and I won't be running silly high pressures.

Also, due to some stock issues I'm considering ordering a 32c for the front and a 30c for rear. Feels weird to run two sizes of road tires but ultimately it's just an OCD issue, right?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dantheman

Shopping new tires for my commuter. Will I die if I run non-TLR road tires tubeless? Rims are tubeless compatible (and currently set up so) and I won't be running silly high pressures.

Also, due to some stock issues I'm considering ordering a 32c for the front and a 30c for rear. Feels weird to run two sizes of road tires but ultimately it's just an OCD issue, right?

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My new road bike came with two different size tires: 25c on the front for aero, 28c on the back for lower rolling resistance. (They’re DT Swiss wheels, aero by Swiss Side and that’s what Swiss Side says is fastest.)

Everything I’ve seen about road tubeless says you’re going to die if you try to do it with a non-tubeless tire. The main concern seems to be the bead holding and/or sealing well enough. Even a small burp on a road tire is going to have a huge effect on pressure.

Interested to hear if anyone has actual experience though. Won’t be trying it myself.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dantheman

Shopping new tires for my commuter. Will I die if I run non-TLR road tires tubeless?

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Worst case? yeah maybe

Last couple of non tubeless road tires I saw someone try to set up both leaked all the air out really quickly and I kind of wouldn't fully trust them to stay on the rim all the time.

If you haven't even bought the tires yet why would you not buy tubeless tires? There are plenty of tubeless 32mm tires out there.

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Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong

My new road bike came with two different size tires: 25c on the front for aero, 28c on the back for lower rolling resistance. (They’re DT Swiss wheels, aero by Swiss Side and that’s what Swiss Side says is fastest.)

Everything I’ve seen about road tubeless says you’re going to die if you try to do it with a non-tubeless tire. The main concern seems to be the bead holding and/or sealing well enough. Even a small burp on a road tire is going to have a huge effect on pressure.

Interested to hear if anyone has actual experience though. Won’t be trying it myself.

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With some 15yr old shimano rims I forget the tire brand but I couldn't even get tubeless tires on the rims, so IME you want to have real tubeless ready tires and rims, I would say a wheel package you know has worked to run tubeless

I sent the tires back to CRC and they got lost, SO a big fucking waste of time & money

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dantheman

Shopping new tires for my commuter. Will I die if I run non-TLR road tires tubeless? Rims are tubeless compatible (and currently set up so) and I won't be running silly high pressures.

Also, due to some stock issues I'm considering ordering a 32c for the front and a 30c for rear. Feels weird to run two sizes of road tires but ultimately it's just an OCD issue, right?

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100% do not run a non-tubeless road tire without a tube.


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I had an old roadie I knew who would say “never try to save money on a front tire”.

Even for someone good on a bike, a catastrophic flat on your front tire going 30mph isn’t a good situation. I’d say futzing with road tubeless would make me not trust the bike as even if it’s holding air it just wasn’t designed to work without a tube.

Find some road tubeless tires on clearance if needed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dantheman

Shopping new tires for my commuter. Will I die if I run non-TLR road tires tubeless? Rims are tubeless compatible (and currently set up so) and I won't be running silly high pressures.

Also, due to some stock issues I'm considering ordering a 32c for the front and a 30c for rear. Feels weird to run two sizes of road tires but ultimately it's just an OCD issue, right?

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I had tubeless tires on my tubeless rim road wheels (700x25) and went back to tubes, they would hold air for a few days at high pressure then go flat. I imagine it would be worse with non tubeless tires.
On my gravel bike (700x38) I'm running tubeless at moderate pressure and it works well, I'm not sure if there's a magic pressure range or size range or what.

What Joe said, never ever.
I’ve been running Conti gp5000 28 TL’s for years now on my road bike. 58psi and never worry about them. Never going back to tubes

All that said two different widths is not an issue at all. For future reference.

Not Shimano spec, but I have been very satisfied with Wheels MFG BB (GXP). Replaceable bearings when they do finally get cooked. Made in USA. Has survived much longer than Canfield GXP BB. More on the dusty side here, but has seen a couple mud races.

What about running tubeless gravel/cross tires on wheels that pre-date tubeless (Easton EA70 ca. 2010), tubeless? Will need tubeless rim tape obviously, but will I die?

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Originally Posted by bean

What about running tubeless gravel/cross tires on wheels that pre-date tubeless (Easton EA70 ca. 2010), tubeless? Will need tubeless rim tape obviously, but will I die?

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I’m always cautious about running a Tubeless setup on non-Tubeless rims, especially road rims.
The major difference with tubeless and non-tubeless rim is that the rim profile has a flat perpendicular shelf next the sidewall. This self is very close to the circumference of the tire bead. It allows for the tire to raise up and push up onto the shelf, and keeps the tire on the rim in a case of a blow out.
If the rim does not have this shelf, you risk blowing the tire off the rim in a deflation incident.
Attachment 495394

I've blown quite a few mountain tires off the rim back before tubeless rims were standardized. No fucking way I'd risk that on a road bike.

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I have retro fit MTNbike tires for tubeless but this is not that, so as oposed to trying to do a retro fit on old rims you really want to buy a working road or gravel tubeless setup or at least something you know will work

the Shimano road rim I tried to do tubeless on was completely flat across that ^^ center channel so without the dropped center channel for the beed to drop in during instal it was fucking near impossible to get the tire on the rim.

I wanked about with it for awhile broke a couple of those plastic tire levers and then figured if this blows out on the road no way I will get the tire off/ on and I gave up