The chainsaw thread...

Chain oil comes in heavy/ medium/ light, what you need usually is depending on the air temperature

I chase all the sawdust out of the bar with the pointy end of this sthil sharpening guage also works to poke the sawdust out of the holes

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/ch...ls/depthgauge/

its all just scheduled maintenance, figure out what you gots do to keep thing running well

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

those ^^ are both good industrial grade Sthil saws eh

So a dirty airfilter can alter the fuel-air ratio and make the saw run badly (rich I think ?) I have never touched the Carb and the saw has always runs the same, air filters on the 261 are not expensive so I have 2, at the end of every 6 hr day I swap out the dirty airfilter, vacuum it/ wash under the tap/ dry gently on top of an idling italian espresso maker, the air filters stay clean & seem to last forever using that service method

also a good time to clean cooling fins, vacum all the sawdust from under the engine covers, sharpen chain, clean bar groove, maybe flip the bar

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I'll try to clean my older air filter better and see how it looks when im done. Id like to have two usable filters on hand. Thanks!

I bought the ms361 used and abused, and I brought it back to life. I modded the muffler on it a few years ago, which requires a retune of the carb. It's a noticeable improvement with the mod. It's a common mod for that saw.

Last fall, it had some issues. I disassembled and cleaned the carb as part of the diagnostic. i also messed with the carb settings. In the end, the issue ended up being on the ignition side. When i put the saw down last fall, it was running way too rich at open throttle. So today, i spent a little time adjusting it. I have a hard time hearing that 4-stroke/blubber sound in the audio recordings available for tuning saws. Someday, ill get somebody to help me with the tune or I'll take it to a shop to tune on a tachometer.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using TGR Forums mobile app

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Originally Posted by Jethro

Any tips on keeping the oiling ports on the bar unplugged? I try to sharpen before fine shavings/dust is coming out. It’s gotten to the point that I pretty much pull the bar every sharpening to clear the holes out. On one bar I drilled them out to a larger diameter, but I’m not sure if it made a difference. I’ve thought about thinning my bar oil. Saw is a Husqvarna 55 circa 1997 and it homeowner/firewood duty. I used to use it for clearing creeks for kayaking in a previous life

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Like XXX-er, I wondered about the weight of the oil and air temp. That hasn’t been a problem with my 55, but I do my heaviest cutting (firewood) in warmer weather, just use generic bar oil from a gallon jug. When I was clearing trails at the ski area, I’d notice the bar oil got kind of thick and slow-running on colder days - I’d let the saw idle for a bit to warm it up.

Stihl states their medium chain oil goes from -5C to +10C. Either above or below they recommend the next grade of viscosity. No recent experience with husky products but the googles say below 0C use their winter weight oil.

Thanks for the info on the various viscosity oils. I’ve been using some random bar oil that was in my shed when I bought my place. It could be the issue

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Originally Posted by Bronco

I have the Milwaukee chainsaw and other 18v tools. The problem is that the batteries that run the drill, impact driver, etc are compatible but their batteries last just a few minutes in the chainsaw. The chainsaw battery is much larger and heavier than the normal batteries and would be unwieldy on a smaller tool designed for one hand operation.

I have a small tree clearing project and the battery will drop and limb one 50' fir tree before needing a charge. I'm dropping and limbing a bunch and will buck them up with my MS460. Kind of nice to use the little guy as much as I have, saves my back and energy for playing.

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I've had the opposite experience. I use the little ones all the time and they last a long time. Do you sharpen your chain?

Also, Milwaukee cordless tools today have more balz than their older plug in equals. Especially a chainsaw...you have a lot of voltage drop with the average hardware store extension cord.

I’ve bought into the Stihl battery system for full-time professional use building and maintaining trails, and clearing ski runs. I’m very impressed with the capability of the MSA 200 C-BQ chainsaw
https://en.stihl.ca/STIHL-Products/S...adegeraet.aspx
and for all but the most demanding use it’s a pleasure (low weight, quiet, no fumes, quick start) to use.
I just picked up a HTA 85 pole pruner
https://en.stihl.ca/STIHL-Products/S...adegeraet.aspx
which extends to a full and functional 12’.
I’m already convinced these are the the future, and while not quite as capable as our trusty MS261s, for 2020 they’ve released a higher capacity saw and battery and the performance gap is rapidly shrinking.

Husky 372XP started and and ran fine in the fall. I got lazy and put it away last fall with pump mix in it. Had ethanol in it probably so I'm thinking carb got gummed up? I normally use the expensive 95 octane ethanol-free gas in a can before putting away.

Drained the gas, added fresh and gave it a start this weekend. It starts but then just dies in 3 seconds.

Before I bring it to repair shop, any ideas on simple things to try?

Mix up some fresh gas with seafoam and you might get lucky.

Seafoam...


https://seafoamsales.com/uploads/201...Carburetor.pdf

Ok, will try this. Thanks.

Carb kit if seafoam does not work?

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

Chain oil comes in heavy/ medium/ light, what you need usually is depending on the air temperature

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If I'm bucking a lot of wood I'll start off with medium and then fill with heavy until I shut down for day and then fill with medium so next start is with med.

16 in. 56-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Electric Chainsaw. Anyone wih firsthand knowledge on these suckers. I just plan to do small jobs (less than 6".) Seems a lot less of hassle than firing up a gas chainsaw during the down months.Attachment 326065

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Originally Posted by mock1

16 in. 56-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Electric Chainsaw. Anyone wih firsthand knowledge on these suckers. I just plan to do small jobs (less than 6".) Seems a lot less of hassle than firing up a gas chainsaw during the down months.Attachment 326065

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I have one and it works great! I've done much more then 6" with it. I have other EGO products so I have like 4 batteries but I cut a ton of wood on one battery.

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Originally Posted by mock1

16 in. 56-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Electric Chainsaw. Anyone wih firsthand knowledge on these suckers. I just plan to do small jobs (less than 6".) Seems a lot less of hassle than firing up a gas chainsaw during the down months.Attachment 326065

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My friend had one and it just died last week. He got it last fall. Used it for mtn bike trail work. He's looking at a Milwaukee now. Granted, he did use it a fair amount so ymmv.

Half a year ^^ I expect a saw to last decades

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Originally Posted by VTeton

I have one and it works great! I've done much more then 6" with it. I have other EGO products so I have like 4 batteries but I cut a ton of wood on one battery.

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thanks.

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

Half a year ^^ I expect a saw to last decades

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Plus, I think I would miss the smell of 2 stroke exhaust.

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

Half a year ^^ I expect a saw to last decades

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Yeah, I haven't followed up to see if it's a warranty deal or not, but he wasn't happy with it anyway.

Question for the tuners...

I've got a pretty well used 440 thats come into my possession recently. Saw runs good when it wants to run, but keeps breaking clutches, went through 3 this winter. I don't feel like i'm really slamming it into and out of use, but who knows.

It was pretty beat when i got it, and have since put a new cylinder/piston(heavy scoring on the old) as well as a new carb and accutrements. Right not the LI is maybe 1/2-3/4 a turn out, but the IA is all the way in, and seems to need to be there to keep the chain from spinning. I'm new to small motors, as well as carbed motors. Is that right? Between the clutch and carb problem, im wondering if theres possibly a bottom end issue. Could a bad crank bearing be the cause?

Heh that shits so frustrating. On the idle, is there possibly an air leak anywhere on the intake side? Does it ever over rev at high rpm for no reason? Ie, not cuz you're running out of gas.

Clutch issues, idk. If you're replacing the clutch and clutch drum and not trying to run the saw when the chain is bound or stuck, or really cutting in a way that's super choppy/skipping, I don't know. Hell, even if you are abusive, three clutches in a winter isnt right. A crank issue causing clutches to fail seems reasonable, but I haven't ever had a chronic clutch issue like that

Heh.

https://craftsman-brand-production.s...CSL621D1_1.jpg

https://www.craftsman.com/products/v...hainsaw-lopper

^If they create one that looks like a T-Rex, I'm in.

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Originally Posted by gretch6364

I picked up a stihl farm boss for $20. Need to get in to the shop and tuned up.

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Uh, 20$? Wow.

Try Go Rentals. Red Canyon.
Best small engine shop around.