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commuter oriented ebike with fenders and racks like a trek allant? most models are on sale right now but also still not cheapQuote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
or a kona rove, those are also on sale. steel, has mounts for whatever you want to put on it
https://www.konaworld.com/products/rove
get one while they last/kona still exists
Thanks for the beta, those Konas look good, same for the Diamondback. Mother's day gift here we come!
I've been looking at something like a Specialized Sirrus X for my sometimes bike riding wife. She likes the idea, doesn't love the occasional spill on a mtb, and I don't think will love the aggressive body position of a road/gravel bike.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
That's what I just got actually, a Sirrus X3. Huge discount for the limited sizes left, got it for $700 instead of $1200. I would have gotten an X4 to stay in the Shimano ecosystem but they come with FutureShock and Ms Boissal absolutely hates the feeling of it when she rides my gravel bike.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
My commuter is a Kona Dew. 1x10 (clutched), hydro discs, 650b tires (47mm). Aluminum frame. Super fun/zippy bike that I've taken on some gravel and green (somewhat rocky) singletrack.
Modified with shorter stem/wider/taller bars and knobbier tires (conti terra trail) for my gravelly commute. Converted to tubeless, 30 PSI gives some decent tire suspension.
Fender and rack mounts, two bottle mounts, top tube bag mount. So many mounts.
Looks like 13 speed wireless coming from Shimano
I really hope it stays on the roadie side.Quote:
Originally Posted by buttahflake
They apply for thousands of pattens, and the media pick on a few stores and really run with the story.Quote:
Originally Posted by buttahflake
Google "Shimano Patent"
1000 articles come up. The headlines read:
Shimano will come out with a gearbox transmission.
Shimano patent wireless brakes
Shimano patent applied for ABS braking
Shimano Files Patent for Direct-Mount Rear Derailleur with
Shimano's new patent suggests a rear mech is in the works with increased ground clearance and improved wide ratio compatibility.
Shimano's latest patent filings, electronic dropper posts
Shimano has filed a patent for an ABS braking system for bike
Shimano patent is entitled “Drive unit for human-powered vehicle and battery holding device of human-powered vehicle"
The patent is set to expire in September of 2019, so could Shimano be working on a drivetrain that jumps 2 gears past SRAM Eagle?
Shimano power meter SPD-SL pedals patent revealed
A Shimano patent aims to make mountain biking more comfortable and efficient with AI and machine learning.
Shimano Patent Narrow-Wide Chainring that allows shifting in 2x and 3x systems
Operating Device [Battery-less, Wireless Shifter] by Shimano
Yeah, I don’t care either way. I like SRAM, just putting it out there.
I’m pretty darn happy with Eagle… I just can’t get onboard with wireless stuff for most of my riding. I do a lot of Bikepacking and long rides and the benefits don’t outweigh the potential for a really tough situation. If I wasn’t regularly more than 30 miles from a car I’d feel differently. Transmission would be fine on the “big bike”.
XO1 Eagle - hard to fault it. The 10-52 cassette is dumb but 10-50 is a solid setup.
XT - fine but the RD is overly soft
XTR - the current pick
Quote:
Originally Posted by buttahflake
I’m replacing the damper shaft on a 2023 super deluxe coil (to reduce stroke from 62.5 to 60, and replace bearing eyelet with a standard eyelet).
Reinstall requires removing the bleed screw and a nylon compression ball (behind the screw) from the seal head.
Rockshox service manual says to use a 1.5mm guide pin to push out the compression ball.
The compression ball is stuck. Any thoughts on how to remove it?
I thought I was the only who doesn’t like the 52. Too big a jump. Hope the 10-50s will continue to be available.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
It's funny, I'm running a Shimano drivetrain now and I'm constantly annoyed by the too-small jumps in the first 3 gears. I think I'm just used to Sram.Quote:
Originally Posted by beaterdit
I find the smaller gaps make it more of a usable gear instead of a bail-out.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
with shimano, I use more of the cassette as well.
It's mostly just that sram's gearing works out nicely for the climbs that I ride the most. Shimano's 3rd gear is a little too easy for a steady ~8% grade. 4th gear is about the same on shimano and sram, but it's a little more work than I usually want to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
On climbs that are more varied and steeper, I like Shimano's spacing better.
My climbing is so bad all I care about is 30/51Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I have some camping trips this summer that I want to bring the nice bikes on. Need to lock 3 bikes to the tongue of our popup camper well enough to go on a hike. I need to pull them out and measure but I think I probably need 6-10ft of chain, I can take front wheels off for a shorter loop.
I can get 10ft of abus 10ks 3/8 chain for like $80 is that beefy enough or do I really need to go to a 1/2” chain? What about padlocks or is a ulock enough?
I’m not claiming expertise here, just random thoughts. The difference between 3/8” and 1/2” chain is probably bolt cutters vs angle grinder, but any pro thief who wants your shit is going to have a cordless grinder anyways. And such a tool can defeat almost anything. So in my view you are probably looking at a deterrent that is practical enough for you that a rookie will find it not worth the time and move on.
I personally have tried to use heavy chain on nice bikes while traveling and then the issue is that you have to buy fabric wrapped chain (or wrap it yourself) so that you don’t damage any bikes, and it’s also a huge pain to handle. The lock shackle you need to clear two loops of 1/2” chain may end up being the weak link too.
Given all of that, I have gone away with all of my heavy shit and just gone with multiple segments of 3/8” cable and multiple open shackle combo locks in the name of practicality. Multiple to add time and visual noise. I think my Honda generator is the one thing I carry that gets 1/2” cable, because while it’s worth less than the bikes it’s got more utility to meth addicts and easier to sell. Again, open shackle lock on that too. Presumably if you can afford multiple nice bikes and a camper you also have a good HO or renters insurance policy, a high limit credit card, and a cash emergency fund to cover random bullshit losses that happen on road trips.
Just thread the chain through an old inner tube.Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
Whenever possible, I prefer to walk 100 feet into the woods and lock bikes to a tree. A determined thief will get through any chain / cable / lock. Better to just lock the bikes somewhere out of sight. In sketchier, non forested area, I'll lock bikes inside the camper (not that the camper is particularly secure - it just gets the bikes out of sight).
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Camper is a tent trailer so no security there. It looks like a 3/8 abus is pretty handheld bolt cutter resistant but a hydraulic cutter or angle grinder wins against most anything. I think a solid chain is still worth the upgrade from the shitty cables I have and the abus ones come with a cover.
This is what I use for 2 bikes on a 1up rack. Restaurants. Grocery stores. Trailheads. Overnight at hotels. If I have more bikes, I’d rather get a second chain than a longer chain. It gets unwieldy. I think a 1/2” chain would be too heavy and cumbersome at this length.
Is it infallible? No.
Do I have insurance? Yep.
ABUS Hardened Steel 10KS 6 Foot x 3/8" Thick Square Security Chain
https://a.co/d/5K9wn1g
Then look for a lock that the Lockpickinglawyer doesn’t single out as totally sucking. Like, don’t get a MasterLock. And don’t get something smaller than the chain or you’re paying too much for the chain. Budget $25-40 for a solid lock. Double-Triple that if you just want to buy a bomber lock and don’t have patience for the padlock rabbit hole.
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The Fox Float DPS rear shock on my 2020 Occam started leaking oil on my ride yesterday. I bought the bike used and I doubt the shock has ever been serviced. I’m 50/50 on whether I’m going to keep the bike, since I feel it’s slightly too big.
What’s the move? Send the shock in for service and then sell the bike? Upgrade the shock and keep it?
Are you running it back to your safety chain loops or just wrapping it around the bikes and some part of the 1up? If back to the chain loops, is the 6' long enough to make it through bike wheels and back, or just the frames?Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
The 6’ chain is just long enough to loop through 2 front triangles and the rack. I’ve got a 2’ chain I use if we’re bringing a 3rd bike, and another 6’ chain if we’re bringing 4 bikes.
The 1up is locked to the hitch with their hitch lock. I’ve got one of the 1up wheel locks per bike (used to have 2 per but that’s another story).
Yes, the 1up can be disassembled piece by piece with a socket set. But I weigh the likelihood of defeat against what works for us and consider both the long term cost of replacing and the short term possibility of trip disruption. I’m not going to the great hubs of bike theft like college campuses, NYC, and international bike races.
I’ve said it before, there is no perfect bike theft system. Just ask Neko Mullaly. You’re doing your due diligence and hoping it’s enough to avoid trip disruption. Locks are not a substitute for insurance.
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