Ask the experts

Does the TGR expert community have any insight on best / easiest ways to purge excess negative pressure in a Zeb beyond what Copilot offered up?

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If you’re experiencing issues with negative air pressure in your Zeb Select fork, there are a few steps you can take to address it:

Equalize Positive and Negative Air Pressures:
- DebonAir+ forks, including the Zeb Select, benefit from equalizing positive and negative air pressures. This ensures accurate pressurization of the air spring.

Here’s what you can do:
- Compress the fork through at least 50% of its travel five times. This helps balance the air pressures.
- Pressurize the air spring to the recommended starting pressure once more.
Remove the pump after setting the pressure12.

Check for Grease or Blockages:
- Sometimes excess grease or blockages in the air spring can cause issues. If you’re comfortable with tools, consider the following:
-- Remove the air spring assembly.
-- Clean it thoroughly to ensure there’s no excess grease or debris.
-- Reassemble and re-grease as needed33.

Inspect Seals and Bushings:
- While you’re at it, inspect the seals and bushings. Damaged or worn seals can affect performance.
- Consider replacing them with fresh ones if necessary33.
Consider Upgrading Seals:
- If you’re disassembling the fork, you might want to upgrade the seals. Green SKF seals are known for their durability and performance.
- Fresh crush washers for the lower bolts are also a good idea33.

Remember to follow proper procedures and safety precautions when working on your fork. If these steps don’t resolve the issue, it’s advisable to consult a professional bike mechanic or contact the manufacturer for further assistance

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Had a road ride on the mtb and it felt great. But I appreciate and respect the input I get when I post questions here so I'll go with the road bike. It's off the trainer and working good so all is well, thanks all who chimed in.

EDIT race day is rain all day!

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Originally Posted by Huskier

1) Cost savings of building your own wheel vs frustration factor: Worth it?

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Wheel building is a passion project. It's a fun hobby. It's bragging rights. It's the single most satisfying thing you can do wrenching on bikes.
In the early days of cheap chinese carbon hoops you could build a DT350 hub onto Nextie rims and spend $600 bucks for front and rear, and the name brand carbonz were going to cost you 3-5x as much. Now all the wheel parts are more expensive if doing your own build, while name brand hoops are more "affordable" and come with sick warranties.
For some folks building wheels is rewarding and they won't shut up about it.
For some folks, buying a $1500 wheelset is rewarding and they won't shut up about it.
It's just different.
If you're buying a used carbon wheelset, ask yourself how much the hubs are worth. Because that's what you're left with when the rim inevitably cracks. You won't die, but you will be dying inside when you realize the original owner you bought them from a year ago won't help facilitate a warranty return for you.

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Originally Posted by jm2e

Wheel building is a passion project. It's a fun hobby.

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With some help from this thread, I’ve built 4 now. I’d do it again. They’ve worked perfectly, but if something was amiss, I’d prolly know why, since I was there tightening every nipple. Lots of wheel building YouTubes too.

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Originally Posted by jm2e

Wheel building is a passion project. It's a fun hobby. It's bragging rights. It's the single most satisfying thing you can do wrenching on bikes.
In the early days of cheap chinese carbon hoops you could build a DT350 hub onto Nextie rims and spend $600 bucks for front and rear, and the name brand carbonz were going to cost you 3-5x as much. Now all the wheel parts are more expensive if doing your own build, while name brand hoops are more "affordable" and come with sick warranties.
For some folks building wheels is rewarding and they won't shut up about it.
For some folks, buying a $1500 wheelset is rewarding and they won't shut up about it.
It's just different.
If you're buying a used carbon wheelset, ask yourself how much the hubs are worth. Because that's what you're left with when the rim inevitably cracks. You won't die, but you will be dying inside when you realize the original owner you bought them from a year ago won't help facilitate a warranty return for you.

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Yeah, for most people wheelbuilding is something to do when you want something specific/oddball that just isn’t commercially available. Weird hub you really want to use, strange sizes, etc.

Different if you have done it a bunch of times, have special tools, and can do it quickly with good tension…but most people will spend a lot more time building it. Many will also end up paying a shop for a final tension and true…

My last wheel build was 26” rims to a Bendix kickback hub…. Not buying that setup new.

How steep is Utah NICA race? 30t/46t cut it for junior high?

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Originally Posted by Meconium

How steep is Utah NICA race? 30t/46t cut it for junior high?

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Dilemma is 104 bcd, hg and 11 speed derailleur. Supposedly I could sacrifice an extra micro spine 29" and go 12 speed but I'm a few inches away from the 27.5 jump to 29er. Supposedly I guess I could put a 52t hg cassette and Shimano 12speed derailleur with 11 speed shifter, correct?

Wheel size is relevant as is the strength of the kid. 30x46 on a 26” is going to be easier than 30x50 on a 29.

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Originally Posted by Meconium

Dilemma is 104 bcd, hg and 11 speed derailleur. Supposedly I could sacrifice an extra micro spine 29" and go 12 speed but I'm a few inches away from the 27.5 jump to 29er. Supposedly I guess I could put a 52t hg cassette and Shimano 12speed derailleur with 11 speed shifter, correct?

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Originally Posted by Meconium

How steep is Utah NICA race? 30t/46t cut it for junior high?

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I've ridden most of the Nica courses in Utah, most of the climbs are going to be relatively short and not super steep. The Snow Basin probably has the steepest climbing in it off the start line
https://www.trailforks.com/route/jhs...e-course-2263/

, but most of it is going to be like this: https://www.trailforks.com/route/pow...-uhscl-course/

That said, you can go pre ride some trail with them and see how they feel about it.

Apologies if there is already a thread about this, couldn't find one.

This season is likely to include much more bike park riding than ever for me, and I might enter some enduro races as well. Any recommendations for chest/back armor for these two use cases? It seems like the two main categories of torso protection these days are under-the-jersey garments with pads built in, and moto-style roost guards. Any reason I should go with one over the other? Any particular recs for a skinny boi (5'9" 135lbs)? Thanks!

Hah you know what’s funny it seems like there are more guys our size (I’m 5’ 8” 140 lbs) here in Sprocket Rockets than TGR as a whole … maybe I’ll start doing gear swap threads in Sprocket Rockets [emoji2957][emoji2957][emoji2957]

That’s pretty funny. Chking in at 5’8 150

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Originally Posted by Toddball

Apologies if there is already a thread about this, couldn't find one.

This season is likely to include much more bike park riding than ever for me, and I might enter some enduro races as well. Any recommendations for chest/back armor for these two use cases? It seems like the two main categories of torso protection these days are under-the-jersey garments with pads built in, and moto-style roost guards. Any reason I should go with one over the other? Any particular recs for a skinny boi (5'9" 135lbs)? Thanks!

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I find the pads-built-in pressure suit type of thing to be really hot. The protection is great, and they definitely saved me in some falls, but I stopped wearing them because they're pretty miserable to wear.

Anyone know how to get the main pivot axle out on a GG Gnarvana? It looks like that wedge piece was supposed to come out with the bolt, but mine stayed in place.

Edit: Seems like the c clip that’s behind the wedge might be fucked?

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Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio

Hah you know what’s funny it seems like there are more guys our size (I’m 5’ 8” 140 lbs) here in Sprocket Rockets than TGR as a whole … maybe I’ll start doing gear swap threads in Sprocket Rockets [emoji2957][emoji2957][emoji2957]

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Originally Posted by mcski

That’s pretty funny. Chking in at 5’8 150

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5'7" 145 haha. I'm a freak with a 33" inseam though. Good for biking I guess but bad for buying pants and shorts!

5’10” 145 here…


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

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Originally Posted by Toddball

Apologies if there is already a thread about this, couldn't find one.

This season is likely to include much more bike park riding than ever for me, and I might enter some enduro races as well. Any recommendations for chest/back armor for these two use cases? It seems like the two main categories of torso protection these days are under-the-jersey garments with pads built in, and moto-style roost guards. Any reason I should go with one over the other? Any particular recs for a skinny boi (5'9" 135lbs)? Thanks!

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This is one I'm looking at for Enduro rides: https://ixs.com/us/mtb/mtb-equipment...otective-black

It looks pretty ventilated and on the pedal up I'll just undo one of the side straps to let it breathe a bit better.

When riding bike park I prefer the full pressure suit since it has more protection and heat isn't as much of a problem since there's a lift.

3 rides in one of my new Formula Cura 4 calipers began leaking, causing oil everywhere and loss of the front brake. I pulled it apart and checked the lines, re-bled, and was able to determine there is leakage around the edges of the pistons when I push the lever.

a) this is clearly a warranty issue right? Or could I have done something to cause this?

b) any experience with Formula’s USA customer service?

c) how hard would it be to just replace the piston seals myself? They’re like 15 dollars online but I don’t see instructions anywhere. Would I just gently push out the pistons and pop in the new seals or is there more to it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by meepmoop24

This is one I'm looking at for Enduro rides: https://ixs.com/us/mtb/mtb-equipment...otective-black

It looks pretty ventilated and on the pedal up I'll just undo one of the side straps to let it breathe a bit better.

When riding bike park I prefer the full pressure suit since it has more protection and heat isn't as much of a problem since there's a lift.

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Similar size to you and went through this last spring (no racing, but big days in bike park also involving some pedalling plus shuttle and pedal days in places like Finale).

In the end I got this, and after a season of use I would again: https://www.pocsports.com/collection...41481183690904

I found it to have much more padding/impact absorption than the roost guards, which seem(ed) to be more about penetration protection. I have no issue wearing it on days where I might be pedalling 5-800 m vert myself on top of lift or shuttle ascents, but I don't wear it on days where I'm only pedalling (which for me often means climbing 1000+ vert metres in one hit).

Side zip makes it super easy to get on and off, and and actually works quite well for ventilation too if you take your jersey off.

5'9" 155 pounds here, lol

I have a somewhat specific bib question for any connoisseur out there: does anyone know of modern bibs that are as similar as possible to the old classic Verge Elite Euro ones? I have a branded pair from the shop I used to work at that are literally perfect for me in every way, but they've had over a decade of heavy use and I can't help but think of how nasty they must be at this point. They're perfect fitting (I'm 6'2, 185, size XL), the fabric is super soft and light, good chammy, nice and cool, good leg grippers, and no nipple chaffing. I can spend all day in them and it's not an issue at all, whereas other bibs I have tried I can't wait to get them off.

I use these almost exclusively for mountain biking with shorts over the top so emphasis is on comfort not aerodynamics or abrasion resistance. I tried some cheaper urban cycling apparel ones and they are total ball crushers whenever I stand up, and I have to basically be a contortionist if I want to pee with them on. So mainly looking for something with really soft stretchy fabric ideally not over $150. Verge sells the newer Strike ones without requiring custom orders but I have no idea how similar those are to my old beloved ones. Was also looking at the Rapha core cargo or Castelli unimited cargo since they're both on sale right now and the pockets could be nice. Anyway open to recs even if you aren't able to answer my very specific comparison question...

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Originally Posted by Abies

3 rides in one of my new Formula Cura 4 calipers began leaking, causing oil everywhere and loss of the front brake. I pulled it apart and checked the lines, re-bled, and was able to determine there is leakage around the edges of the pistons when I push the lever.

a) this is clearly a warranty issue right? Or could I have done something to cause this?

b) any experience with Formula’s USA customer service?

c) how hard would it be to just replace the piston seals myself? They’re like 15 dollars online but I don’t see instructions anywhere. Would I just gently push out the pistons and pop in the new seals or is there more to it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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So actually it turns out the leak may be from the hose connection to the caliper and the fluid leaking from the pistons is only visible because they push too far out when I test it without pads. I did notice that the hose was coming in to the caliper at a pretty severe angle when I installed the brake and corrected it later. Ordered a new hose and hoping that fixes it. I will say Formula responded to my email 8 hours later so that’s a good sign.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by Wes Mantooth

I have a somewhat specific bib question for any connoisseur out there: does anyone know of modern bibs that are as similar as possible to the old classic Verge Elite Euro ones? I have a branded pair from the shop I used to work at that are literally perfect for me in every way, but they've had over a decade of heavy use and I can't help but think of how nasty they must be at this point. They're perfect fitting (I'm 6'2, 185, size XL), the fabric is super soft and light, good chammy, nice and cool, good leg grippers, and no nipple chaffing. I can spend all day in them and it's not an issue at all, whereas other bibs I have tried I can't wait to get them off.

I use these almost exclusively for mountain biking with shorts over the top so emphasis is on comfort not aerodynamics or abrasion resistance. I tried some cheaper urban cycling apparel ones and they are total ball crushers whenever I stand up, and I have to basically be a contortionist if I want to pee with them on. So mainly looking for something with really soft stretchy fabric ideally not over $150. Verge sells the newer Strike ones without requiring custom orders but I have no idea how similar those are to my old beloved ones. Was also looking at the Rapha core cargo or Castelli unimited cargo since they're both on sale right now and the pockets could be nice. Anyway open to recs even if you aren't able to answer my very specific comparison question...

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I was told to size bibs so the straps pull on my shoulders when I stand up but feel right when I lean forward as in a riding position

Something else i recently noticed, bibs not cut low enough at the front, they should be low enough at the front so I can piss over the top cuz I don't wana take my jersey off to get the straps down everytime I wana take a leak, my Castelli bibs are really low, my Kraft less so I think you wana look out for this cuz I have seen some that are too high IMO so look out for that

I try mine on in person, I woudn't buy bibs on line

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

I was told to size bibs so the straps pull on my shoulders when I stand up but feel right when I lean forward as in a riding position

Something else i recently noticed, bibs not cut low enough at the front, they should be low enough at the front so I can piss over the top cuz I don't wana take my jersey off to get the straps down everytime I wana take a leak, my Castelli bibs are really low, my Kraft less so I think you wana look out for this cuz I have seen some that are too high IMO so look out for that

I try mine on in person, I woudn't buy bibs on line

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Yeah I know that's the correct sizing, but I like them to be comfortable standing up too since bike days often involve more than just riding. Skinny wise I'm a M or L, but I usually go XL in bibs for height reasons. And yes being able to pee without taking my shirt off is a must

I checked some local shops and the selection was pretty weak, otherwise def agree trying them on solves all of these concerns

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Originally Posted by skaredshtles

Well done, man... well done indeed. :D

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Results are in. The mud won. https://imgur.com/a/LI1jlr7