Ask the experts

Does anyone know how different the lever shape is between GRX 820 vs GRX 810 (12 vs 11 speed). I have a bike with GRX 810 and I'm considering swapping to 12 speed. I'm thinking that I'd only need a right shift lever and I could avoid swapping brakes and the left lever. My cassette and chain likely need to be replaced sometime this year (Shimano 11-42) and I have a Shimano XT Cassette sitting without a home currently. Wouldn't be a lot of extra money.

I'm wondering if the difference in lever shape would be annoying. Visually they look pretty similar online at least.

IDK about the lever, but your 11s HG freehub body won't accept the 12s XT cassette ( MS).

Yeah that was on my radar. It's a DT and I think I have one floating around in toolbox... or can pick one up fairly cheap as it's 3 pawl.

The levers are the expensive part. The left brake lever is $250, which just makes the proposition feel a little less appealing. I am also realizing I'd need a new front chainring as well... as the Shimano 12 speed stuff is its own tooth profile. It does pretty quickly get to a point where the most logical thing is to sell the complete bike used and buy what you want.

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Originally Posted by climberevan

IDK about the lever, but your 11s HG freehub body won't accept the 12s XT cassette ( MS).

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IME, you don’t ‘need’ a new chainring, first try running your existing chainring with a SRAM Eagle chain link. (Usually the Shimano link is the only thing that interferes with the tooth profile).
YMMV.

There are some off color next carbon cranksets on sale right now. Anyone know if the color is decals and paint I could remove with a heat gun?

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Originally Posted by Canada1

There are some off color next carbon cranksets on sale right now. Anyone know if the color is decals and paint I could remove with a heat gun?

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The logo on mine is printed / painted.

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Originally Posted by Canada1

There are some off color next carbon cranksets on sale right now. Anyone know if the color is decals and paint I could remove with a heat gun?

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Cover them with a new decal:
https://www.slikgraphics.com/shop/cr...ank-decal-kit/

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

Cover them with a new decal:
https://www.slikgraphics.com/shop/cr...ank-decal-kit/

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You guys are awesome!! Thanks

Hydro brake newbie here with an air question after doing some recent work trying to understand the inner working a bit better... My rear brake goes soft when hanging vertically (bars up), I'm guessing this is air moving into the lever assembly? Then when back on the ground I can pump up the brakes to get them working again, this moves the air into the rest of the system?

New bike was leaking mineral oil out of the lever olive/barb connection; I fixed that (I think) it looked almost like the olive was in front/on top of the barb so I cut the cable and put a new pair in... Did a lever bleed, this got out a bunch of air bubbles but it still goes soft, I should probably just do a full bleed but was thinking about the system and wondering if a lever bleed works better when the lever is soft or when the system is pumped up...

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Originally Posted by metalltrilogy

Hydro brake newbie here with an air question after doing some recent work trying to understand the inner working a bit better... My rear brake goes soft when hanging vertically (bars up), I'm guessing this is air moving into the lever assembly? Then when back on the ground I can pump up the brakes to get them working again, this moves the air into the rest of the system?

New bike was leaking mineral oil out of the lever olive/barb connection; I fixed that (I think) it looked almost like the olive was in front/on top of the barb so I cut the cable and put a new pair in... Did a lever bleed, this got out a bunch of air bubbles but it still goes soft, I should probably just do a full bleed but was thinking about the system and wondering if a lever bleed works better when the lever is soft or when the system is pumped up...

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Tough to say exactly where the air is. Most likely in the lever. The air might be getting pushed into the reservoir when you pump the brakes up. Regardless, the solution is a full bleed.

Well, I picked up a Revel Rail 27 frame yesterday for $350. Guess I need to build it up.
Was kind of thinking a mullet build. I'm old and set in my XC ways, so it's going to be more of a screw around bike for me, so fun>crushing DH CRs. (And if I don't like it can repurpose a 29" fork for something else)
So what's the best bang-for-the buck firesale endo-y 29" 160mm fork out there now?
Seems like you can grab anything from $350-600.
I'm pretty light (160lbs) /not going to go huge so it seems like the Zeb/Fox 38 are weight wasted for me.
Mazzer for $500?
The Zocchi Z1 coil or regular seems like the best bang for the buck?

You all know my answer
Mezzer, but get the Pro for $660. Well worth the extra buck-n-a-half

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sfotex

Well, I picked up a Revel Rail 27 frame yesterday for $350. Guess I need to build it up.
Was kind of thinking a mullet build. I'm old and set in my XC ways, so it's going to be more of a screw around bike for me, so fun>crushing DH CRs. (And if I don't like it can repurpose a 29" fork for something else)
So what's the best bang-for-the buck firesale endo-y 29" 160mm fork out there now?
Seems like you can grab anything from $350-600.
I'm pretty light (160lbs) /not going to go huge so it seems like the Zeb/Fox 38 are weight wasted for me.
Mazzer for $500?
The Zocchi Z1 coil or regular seems like the best bang for the buck?

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I've got a used-but-in-good-shape Fox 36 Factory that I'd sell for $350+ship. Currently set at 150mm, but you could get a 160 air shaft for cheap. It's orange, and therefore fast. It's either a model year 22 or 23 (can't remember, and I don't think Fox really changed anything between those years).

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Originally Posted by metalltrilogy

. Did a lever bleed, this got out a bunch of air bubbles but it still goes soft, I should probably just do a full bleed but was thinking about the system and wondering if a lever bleed works better when the lever is soft or when the system is pumped up...

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If you had done a full bleed when you already had the bike in the stand, all the tools out, your hands dripping with brake fluid which soon will be dripping on the floor again

you wouldn't be asking these questions or even thinking about it

but don't overthink it

Doubling Down (no pun intended) on my Maxxis Aggressor questions from the New Tires thread.

Do these run large or small?
Would you recommend 2.3 or 2.5WT for a rear trailbike tire? (Matching to 2.6 Hellkat up front)

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

If you had done a full bleed when you already had the bike in the stand, all the tools out, your hands dripping with brake fluid which soon will be dripping on the floor again

you wouldn't be asking these questions or even thinking about it

but don't overthink it

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Yeah a full bleed fixed it, thought I ran outa time on the first round but having done it it was quick and easy. This has been a great intro to hydraulic brake maintenance if nothing else. Seems to be holding pressure and oil now, hopefully be able to get out this weekend!

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Originally Posted by Roxtar

Doubling Down (no pun intended) on my Maxxis Aggressor questions from the New Tires thread.

Do these run large or small?
Would you recommend 2.3 or 2.5WT for a rear trailbike tire? (Matching to 2.6 Hellkat up front)

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I'd say they run true to size for a Maxxis (meaning that a 2.3 aggressor is comparable to a 2.3 DHR2). Last time I measured one (which was a while ago), a 2.3 Aggressor measured about 56-57mm at the widest points of the knobs. Casing was a bit smaller than that.

I think with a 2.6 hellkat up front, you'd probably want the 2.5 aggressor unless you were looking for a substantially smaller rear tire.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sfotex

Well, I picked up a Revel Rail 27 frame yesterday for $350. Guess I need to build it up.
Was kind of thinking a mullet build. I'm old and set in my XC ways, so it's going to be more of a screw around bike for me, so fun>crushing DH CRs. (And if I don't like it can repurpose a 29" fork for something else)
So what's the best bang-for-the buck firesale endo-y 29" 160mm fork out there now?
Seems like you can grab anything from $350-600.
I'm pretty light (160lbs) /not going to go huge so it seems like the Zeb/Fox 38 are weight wasted for me.
Mazzer for $500?
The Zocchi Z1 coil or regular seems like the best bang for the buck?

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That's a silly good score. I would take Toast up on his offer, but if that doesn't work a Lyrik would also work well as they're pretty bang/buck for the mid level models. Coming from XC background you're probably not gonna be adjusting rebound clicks between DH laps (speaking from experience here)

Mezzer - you should be able to find one for $500.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by metalltrilogy

Yeah a full bleed fixed it, thought I ran outa time on the first round but having done it it was quick and easy. This has been a great intro to hydraulic brake maintenance if nothing else. Seems to be holding pressure and oil now, hopefully be able to get out this weekend!

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I ain't gona say I told you so

IME when I did a half ass job the customer is pissed when it broke again, the corporation is pissed cuz my stats look bad, it net took almost twice as long taking into consideration travel and general wanking around

but people seem to be into the half-ass

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Originally Posted by VTskibum

That's a silly good score. I would take Toast up on his offer, but if that doesn't work a Lyrik would also work well as they're pretty bang/buck for the mid level models. Coming from XC background you're probably not gonna be adjusting rebound clicks between DH laps (speaking from experience here)

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Found a used Zeb down the street from me for $200 so I grabbed it for now.

Does anyone have a 27.5 boost rear wheel they want to get rid of/trade for a 29" wheel/tires/etc.?

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Originally Posted by sfotex

Found a used Zeb down the street from me for $200 so I grabbed it for now.

Does anyone have a 27.5 boost rear wheel they want to get rid of/trade for a 29" wheel/tires/etc.?

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Jesus man, with those deals could you keep an eye out for a 29" carbon wheel set for me?

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Originally Posted by John_B

Jesus man, with those deals could you keep an eye out for a 29" carbon wheel set for me?

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https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/75142500

??

^^^ No way that's legit.

Broke a plastic flat pedal in half today, maybe I should go aluminum. Go to not stupid price pedals for big (size 13) feet?