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I just use a piece of aluminum rod, I think 3/4" diameter, and work my way around with that and a hammer. Works just fine as long as you take a little care to keep the cup straight-ish and not let it get cocked too far. It's not rocket surgery. I've used the real Park tool plenty back when I was working in a shop, it's a little more idiot proof but you really don't need one.
Cool, I'll give that a shot. I don't see needing to remove another headset any time soon, and if I do it will be because it's wrecked anyway. I also don't anticipate ever needing this headset again.
I considered toast's LBS suggestion, but word on the street is that shops are swamped and way backed up with service orders so I'm disinclined to walk in looking for an on-the-spot favor.
FWIW, there's probably someone on pinkbike who'd be psyched to get a cheap reach adjust headset for their older DH bike with a dual crown and straight steerer, if you feel like trying to get some beer money out of it.
I've done it with a hammer and a large flathead (a flat punch would be better but I didn't have one). Main thing is to go back and forth on opposite sides so the cup stays straight in the tube.
Recouping some money would definitely be nice. I figured this was going to cost me $30-40, but it looks like it's actually going to be $80-90.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
I've removed a couple headsets with an old handlebar or a wooden block and have reused them. As mentioned, just take it slow and easy.
Hey, I’ll be in SLC tomorrow afternoon. If you want I could bring the Park tool.
Crankarm length. Anyone playing with that? I have 175mm cranks and between pedal strikes and the fact that my seatpost is slammed as low as it will go and the seat is still probably 1-2 mm too high I'm considering going down to 170mm. What's that going to feel like pedaling? Absolutely no difference? Complete knee explosion? Am I even going to notice a 5mm difference?
I feel like I finally got a pretty decent stroke on the bike but it took a lot of effort to get there and changing anything in the system might throw off that delicate balance...
I notice the difference, and prefer 175. Bothers some more than others, you'll just have to try it and see.
I appreciate the offer, but I need to get the new headset first.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Any thoughts on this Brand X headset: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod130957
I've had great luck with Brand X droppers. Even if I pay for rush shipping it's still half the cost of a Cane Creek 40. It's going on 60 lb kid's DJ, so the abuse factor is low. The specs list the lower cup as EC49/39.8, but that 0.2 mm can't matter, right?
I notice the difference and prefer 170's. The slightly smaller circle just feels a little more normal to me, but mostly I like having more pedal clearance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
I've experimented with 165, 170, 175, and 180. I ran 165's on my DH bike for years, but they kinda suck for real pedaling. 180's feel long, with a goofy big pedaling circle. Good for singlespeed mashing though.
But this, like any fit / bio-mechanical issue, is largely going to be personal preference.
I was in the same boat with the slammed dropper a bit too high.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Fixed with low stack saddle (Silverado) and thin ski boot insoles without arch under shoe insole.
I'd go for the Brand X, but I've never really had issues with any sealed bearing headsets I've owned.
Same here. I'd give it a try.Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
I almost bought a Brand X one a few weeks ago, then found what I needed from FSA on Amazon for a few $ more. Perhaps worth a search there too.
Already running a Silverado and a 2nd thin insole (good thing the Shimano shoes are super high volume). Changing the length of the crank arms seems like the last alternative before going to a shorter dropper which would be super annoying...Quote:
Originally Posted by Meconium
I'm going to get rid of the bike by the end of the season and can probably live with it for another 1000 miles or so but the new ride I'm looking at comes with no-cost options for varying crank-arm lengths. Guess I'll have to try and test-ride 2 different versions and see if I even notice a difference. If not I'll happily go with shorter arms and a bit more clearance.
I'm 6' tall with a 32" inseam, and 170s are my preferred length for a bike that I'm going to actually pedal on, mostly because the slightly smaller circle feels more natural. YMMV.
Brand X incoming. I actually had emailed FSA's customer service because their site kinda blows and doesn't list SHIS norms for a lot of their headsets. Their rep said my only option was to buy this complete headset (https://www.fsaproshop.com/FSA_PRODU...bit-Headset_24) but only use the upper cup, and then buy this (https://www.fsaproshop.com/FSA_PRODU...A-DX-Headset_4) lower cup separately, which puts the total price into borderline CK/CC110 territory. Yeah, no.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
I've been looking at whether I can reduce the height on Mrs C's dropper by about 5-10mm, as her post is fully in the frame (to the collar of the dropper post) and the saddle is still a touch high. Already went to a lower profile saddle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
The OneUp dropper shim supposedly works on other brands' posts too, so long as they are similar - her post is a Brand X Ascend II external, which I believe is identical to the PNW Cascade. I'm going to order that shim and see if I can make it work. The shim comes premarked so you can trim it to reduce the drop from a max of 50mm, down to whatever you want.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
You can also cut a few millimeters off of your frame on the seat mast:Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Attachment 334268
I noticed a lot less pedal strikes when I went to 170Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
I'd rather reduce the dropper travel than cut the seat mast. It's on an Ibis Ripley (so carbon), and the seat mast has a shoulder like in that pic above - and the seat clamp is an odd curved clamp, not straight across like most are.
My new $400 Reverb was 9mm to tall. I changed the saddle and reduced my saddle to rail height by 5mm, trimmed my carbon frame by 3mm put a bontex board under my insole and shimmed my cleats.
Scary! And probably safe but I'm super hesitant to cut into the frame...Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
What saddle did you go with? I managed to snap the nose of my Silverado doing who knows what and now it catches me in the dong at the most inopportune moment. If there's something out there that has even less stack I'll try it as a replacement.
I mean, if you're cutting a seat tube shorter, you're presumably doing it because you need to get your dropper post lower, and therefore you've got a shitload of post insertion, and not a massively long run of exposed seatpost to increase your leverage. It's probably fine as long as you do it cleanly and don't damage the remaining structure when you do the cut.
I'd imagine that it blows your resale value to shit though.
I definitely felt a difference going from 175mm to 170mm cranks on my old trail bike. Personally, I prefer the feel of 175mm cranks while pedaling but I got used to the 170 cranks in short order and I loved the fact I could pedal like an idiot on it without worrying too much about pedal strikes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
So if I have a choice I'll choose to have 170 cranks on trail/enduro bikes hands down, every time. Currently running 175s on my XC bike because it feels more efficient and that's what it came with.