Never seen one of these before. I guess it would work if all you want is a hard-shell tent for sleeping on the go. No fuss no muss.
https://helena.craigslist.org/rvd/d/...827498514.html
Printable View
Never seen one of these before. I guess it would work if all you want is a hard-shell tent for sleeping on the go. No fuss no muss.
https://helena.craigslist.org/rvd/d/...827498514.html
Touched on this before. 1989 Sun Lite trailer gut. Figuring out wiring now. Basically want option for 12v from 7pin to bus bar to power all lights/fan and charge jackery deal OR 12v from jackery to power all lights/fan. There has to be some easy way to have both power sources available and you can switch between them.
https://youtu.be/Hu_4EgnBvYI?si=KfG3FixnzxGS2aFD
https://imgur.com/a/Qu8BBUG
Someone bought a truck without reverse.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5fbf7d6a07.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hows he gonna back up ta hook up?
anyone know where i could get an appraisal done for a van conversion in the st johnsbury vt area? bank wants verification of valuation.
St J? are there needles involved?
possibly!
Anybody get any idea how to come up with a valuation for this thing? Bank would like one if I m gonna use it for collateral, Insurance would like one if I wanna insure it beyond the state minimums. It has enough unique features to make it impossible to find equivalent comps. The appraisers I have talked to so far have not been willing to take on the job because of that. If I cannot figure it out, then the same problem will inevitably come up again when I try to sell it in a few years. Open to ideas.
who did the conversion? they should be able to put together a profressional invoice/valuation for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by m2711c
Yeah, see, thats part of the problem. The van is a cut away a chassis, the coach was then added by another manufacturer and then the van was shipped to Quigley for the 4 x 4. The forest service put Mattracks and a massive webasto engine coolant block heater / coach heat radiator on it and then the current owner did multiple iterations and upgrades over the years so nothing was put in at the same time. Im able to get a valuation on the cutaway truck part fairly easily. Its all the shit thats been added and the piecemeal way that its been added thats creating The problem in coming up with a fair value. That and the lack of comps
$79,000 for a high milage unicorn seems a little steep but love is blind. Bottom line is it is worth whatever someone will pay for it and a formal appraisal is unlikely
My son and I headed west last week with plane tickets, a RV rental through Outdoorsy, and a couple Ikon passes. We hit WP, Steamboat, ABasin and Copper. Managed to stop at Strawberry and Indian Hot Springs.
The majority of RVs on Outdoorsy have been winterized, so it was great to find that there are a ton of new rec centers with hot tub and shower.
This was my first RV experience. Driving it was no prob, the Transit platform had plenty of power and handled decently. One downside IMO is the noise at highway speeds. Next time I'll try a van, preferably with two sleeping levels.
Coming from VT, it was really nice to have a few bluebird days.
Overall, super fun, would do it again. Tons of places to park, G Lot at WP, Rabbit Ears, trailhead off Dillon Dam, etc.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...94eb67e0_k.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e6db724f_k.jpg
Whoa, big triple in the Bear Claw.
any Loveland mags want to check this out?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1515...40aB7S9Ucbxw6v
Wow.
OK maybe someone has the answer to this:
I've got a 12v cigarette plug wired into the project camper from the hot on the trucks 7pin connector. When the vehicle is at idle I get 50w max which is enough to charge a Grecell t1000 battery pack. Does the wattage go up when the vehicle is rocking down the highway vs idle and running in the driveway? There really isn't an easy way for me to test this.
I don’t know much about alternator voltage regulation and whether the 7-way output is typically on a regulated or unregulated supply - but your voltage and current are probably mainly limited by the gauge of the wiring through the tow vehicle’s 7-way harness and the trailer umbilical cord.
On my F250 I can pull about 60W as well through the 12V supply on the 7-way to charge my LiFe3PO4 trailer battery.
Did you install a fuse block on your 12V distribution bus?
You could test using a carefully placed brick to idle up to 2300 or so. When I last tested this I was very disappointed with the charge rate from my trucks 7pin. This was a long time ago though, and the specifics are lost to me now. I use a DC/DC converter in the van and it would charge at 40 amps. The big second alt charges around 120 amps at or so at idle, and about 170 amps at highway speed. Not sure if this helps
Can you imagine rolling into WC's parking lot with a Nash RV?Quote:
Originally Posted by BFD
dreaming about it right now as a matter of fact.
Hahah I hadn’t clicked the link yet and thought you guys were talking about a Northwood Nash travel trailer from LaGrande Oregon, not this Dick Tracy Cougar seducing machine (okay might take some work to get it to that level)!
The wire from the plug into the trailer is like 10ga, but then everything steps down to 12 or 14 within the trailer anyway. No idea what it is from the truck batt/alt back to the 7 pin socket. I told client he may need a special DC to DC charger installed (he just got a brand new truck) and a special heavy wire run to his 7 pin in order for this to actually charge the battery.
My understanding from some research is that this 7 pin with aux power has been around for a long time and was invented when people were running regular car batteries in campers (like this one had) and the low amperage 12v was just enough to maintain the battery in travel. Now with most everyone using Lithiums (with built in controllers on the battery) it doesn't maintain. It can either do nothing or actually charge depending on the available amps?
Anyway, I have relieved myself of the project and client seems very happy. It was a great all winter long project that paid well, but looking forward to having my shop back.
That being said I would probably start another one next week if given the opportunity.
The modern voltage regulator adjusts the voltage based on the vehicle battery. With a long wire run (and connectors) there's a voltage drop and this means the trailer house batteries will never fully charge while on the road. That's where a DC to DC charger comes in. It steps up the voltage based on the house batteries. The charger should be as close as practical to the house batteries.