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Got it. Given that scenario, I’d pass on the 429. The Mach 4 from Pivot is sweet and would feel very fast compared to a Ripley but also like a lot less bike.
I curious about the new ASR sounds like it’s a little more plush than some options when it’s fully open but has a three position remote. I saw a lot of broken ASR’s back in the day so I’m a little worried there.
SB120 would likely feel like a more polished Ripley.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jtlange
How much should it cost to have a LBS box and ship a bike cross country?
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Shipping will probably be somewhere between $125 and $200-ish, depending on the size of the box and how much insurance you put on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Skistack
I'd expect a shop to charge around $100 to pack the bike. Getting everything padded and secure in the box is a bit of an art form.
the DIY is ratehr than have to get rid of all the cardboard a bikestore will usually give away boxes for free so call one and ask
You gotta take the front wheel and pedals off, turn the bars 90 degrees, lower the seat
This ^^ is how most bikes are shipped from the factory
pad the bike and frontwheel with cardboard/ pipe insulation,
don't let any parts rattle around in the box
I've flown to/from Yurp no damage using the free box, it might have been a kona box
I dont have a cassette tool. Are there any ghetto ways to install a new XD cassette, onto a new XD hub/wheel?
Otherwise ill just try and bring it to the LBS by work to see if they can do it for me for a couple bucks... but they try and upsell everything and have a really poor attitude towards budget first customers like myself so id like to avoid them if possible.
buy the tool ? I've macgyvered a chain whip with an old chain, also I have used a screwdriver or chisel and hammer to persuade the threaded lock ring I didn't have the tool for, my dad taught me that hack
Just buy the tool. It's $10. (Although you'll need a chain whip to get the cassette back off again).Quote:
Originally Posted by californiagrown
Ok, BoomerQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Otoh I never went to dentist school
How much would you expect your local bike shop to charge you to build up an ebike from parts, assuming the internal routing was a hassle? I just got hammered, and should have asked how much it'd cost before, but didn't expect that it'd be anywhere near this bad. I feel burned but since I do about 99% of my own wrenching now, I don't know what's current rate for this sort of scope.
Backstory: got a Levo last year, tried to install Hayes brakes. Rear hose was too thick to fit through the plastic guide tubes. Buddy who owns the shop (the same one I just took it to) told me to just rip out the guide tube and run the hose inside with a foam sleeve. A couple weeks ago, I got a new mid-power ebike, stripped the brand new parts and pulled all my good stuff off the Levo. I wanted to put the new takeoffs on the Levo so I can sell it. I was unable to re-install the original plastic tubing using a normal Park Internal Routing tool because it got hung up in all holes/bends. I knew that reinstalling it (and the new brake) would require dropping the motor. I could have done it myself, but figured I'd save myself the headache and give some revenue to the local shop.
I would estimate $200 or so.
Andeh - if you're in the Bay Area, I'd say $500-750 for that job. Less if further away.
I guess I might not have understood, like, a complete buildup, and not just straightening out the routing?
Thanks for feedback. Yeah, I'm in the Bay Area. I was thinking around $250 but haven't paid shop labor in years, so $480 was a huge sticker shock. I talked to my buddy at the shop today and he said shops over the hill charge $500 just to swap out a motor, $700+ for a full build-up. (I'm assuming out of warranty, because my warranty work was $0.)
My wife said it's my own fault for not asking how much beforehand, and she's not wrong. I just didn't realize how far off my idea of shop labor rates was.
I had them install brakes, dropper, & drivetrain after fixing the f-d rear brake routing, but didn't figure that they'd be a huge time sink (since their routing was intact, the chain was already cut, brakes were already trimmed & front was bled), but clearly the moral of this story is I made incorrect assumptions on hourly rates and amount of time required.
I did a frame swap when I broke my cargo e-bike frame and it took a lot longer than a normal build so I’m not surprising at that price.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
they must have had an hourly rate to justify the bill ?
so with what the LBS could charge if you are thinking of buying an E- bike on line or wtf consider if you have a problem it could really cost you
If the shop sold you the bike they will probably eat the labor to keep it running thru the warranty
but there is no way for a shop to to recover warranty $$$ from Shimano SO if you bought it somwhere else,
an LBS who doesnt owe you anything wanking about with the motor could cost 400+
I seen it happen
For dropping a motor, magyvering some routing bs, running lines, installing motor, drivetrain, dropper and brakes, with cables/housing(unless you provided them with new cable/housing - which kinda sucks for a mechanic b/c we’re gonna double check that length anyways / trust nothing) and getting it rideable and dialed, $480 sounds pretty reasonable for NorCal.
If you talk to the shop owner about bikes like you talk about them here, he probably gave your bike to their top guy(who hopefully gets paid somewhere near a liveable wage for your area) and gave him the “this guy is an engineer or something, rides a lot, and likes his shit dialed, so do it right and don’t fuck it up.” speech. This is what $480 should represent.
Of course, if they gave to some grom who hacked at it for 5 hours and it rides shitty….then you got hammered.
Did they itemize labor on the receipt? That’d be interesting to see.
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A true cheap ass would go NX recognizing that the next move when that wears out is to drop down to 11s Shimano which is good and cheaper than most 12s options.Quote:
Originally Posted by snowaddict91
I've been on a spur for 3 yrs now. Awesome bike. Handles everything well except large hucks and high speed chunder.
That's a fair point. After giving it some more thought I've written the NX build off for now as the wheelset isn't great and I'd rather step up from the performance fork/shock. A local shop might have a line on a GX build for me, if not I may just wait it out for a deal in the used market. I don't really "need" to buy a second bike right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by evdog
The new Epic Evo is what started this current lust for a short travel rig, then I stumbled on the Spur sale.Quote:
Originally Posted by sfotex
Trek Top Fuel could be an option, we have a Trek store in town.
I think the Tallboy and Ripley AF both are just close enough to my 150 bike that I can't justify having both.
Hey CG, if you use RockShox forks the tool is also useful for your fork as well. Specifically for changing tokens or air spring.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
With component prices at an all time low I'm just considering putting back some parts in anticipation of building up a 'downcountry' type bike.
Spur, Tallboy, Ripley, etc. I'm keeping my eye out for a sale/used deal
XT kit for $600
I have a nice set of carbon wheel already.
I found this Fox 34 SC for $530 :
https://www.bikesonline.com/fox-34-f...ork-29~8451668
120mm travel/44 rake
I'm pretty light and don't go big, so SC seems like an ok tradeoff to me.
Is this worth salting away at this price? They seem to be $800+ everywhere else.
Not really sure that's the best plan of attack in this buyer's market. I'm seeing some ridiculous deals on really nicely speced used bikes.
You may be buying parts you won't need.
Example: I recently found a used bike on PB for my son.
2023 Evil Following.
Full XT drivetrain and brakes, Factory 34 Grip2, I9 wheels.
A one year old $8K build for $3200.
I offered $2500 + split shipping. He jumped at it.
I've been watching the market out here, but it seems like everything is a medium or XL that is reasonably priced. Lots of used bikes priced about the same as what new ones are going for. Might have to start digging around outside the SLC area..Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
Maybe I need to just lowball them and move on if I get "I know whats I got"
Locally? You're probably right, however PB has a trove of all sizes.