Printable View
And wait til said DoucHe Bro Brah gets a KOM on it then run the segment with a drone at 65 mph. Dude will self-combust in rage...Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
There are endless segments in the Wasatch that are 15 seconds or less and are being fiercely contested. Given that there are people out there who run their GPS sampling at 15 or even 30 seconds intervals I'd say times are accurate within a +/- 500% margin. Totally worth losing sleep and getting banned from bike shops over!
but name names.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
***** ***** is a Douche Segment
Oh, definitely. Even if strava pulls the segment after a week or two, it's worth it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
I'm getting a new fork for my kid's DJ. The current fork is a 1.125" straight steerer, new fork is tapered, so I need to remove the current headset and install a new one. Two questions:
1. What headset do I need? The bike has a full 1.5" head tube (and an eccentric headset, so I can't just replace the lower cup). Looking through Jenson's inventory it's clear as mud which one I need.
2. I've successfully installed one headset before, which was easy as pie. I've never removed an old one. Is it worth it to buy a Park RT-2? Or, just cut some slots in a piece of conduit?
I think you need to look at the frame’s spec sheet or manual to find the upper and lower cup sizes. For example, EC 42 / EC 49, etc.
Hopefully the head tube is wide enough to accommodate the lower cup needed for a tapered steer tube.
What frame?
A standard 1.5 headtube is 49mm SHIS. So you'd want a 49mm EC lower cup, 49mm ZS upper.
Fitting the tapered steerer will be no problem, it's a full 1.5" head tube (like GG used to use on their alloy frames). This is the frame, though their website is a bit light on nitty gritty specs like this: https://www.flowkidsbikes.com/produc...-complete-bike
I had assumed all 1.5" head tubes had the same ID/OD dimensions, is that not the case?
49mm is the standard nominal ID for a 1.5 straight headtube. There are a couple other sizes that normally get used for tapered headtubes, it does look like that's a straight 49mm. You'll need an external bearing lower cup for a tapered steerer in that, upper can obviously stay internal.
OK, so assuming it's 49 mm ID upper/lower, what headset do I need? Nothing fancy, just a basic FSA or whatever.
Cane Creek has the best info to figure out headsets:
http://canecreek.com/wp-content/uplo...his-poster.pdf
Every single part of this conversation is cracking me up. Guys killing to be king of their little world. Meanwhile, there are so many folks in the wider world who will just destroy them.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I can understand good natured fighting within your riding crew or community but the fire these dudes have for their fake electronic records are always funny as shit to me. Reminds me of the guys busted for doping in Cat 2 races.
Priorities.
If someone devoted as much time and effort as these guys do to biking to being the best softball player in town that person would be committed to an asylum. Why is it ok for biking or triathlon?
Don’t get me wrong, I’m asking as a guy who literally has 20 bikes in his garage, plus another 2 or 3 in parts. I mean, I’m into cycling too, but there’s a limit...
To be fair, around here, the guys consistently getting top ten Strava times on everything are crushing everyone in meatspace, too.
Question regarding bike painting- I recently picked up a sweet used singlespeed with a custom steel fork - thing is, the fork is red/fading pink. While I have no issue rocking the pink fork, I’d like to eventually paint it black. Is it as simple as getting a rattle can of black paint and having at ‘er or should I wet paint? Do I need to sand it down first, apply primer?
Any advice on DIY painting of a fork? (Bear in mind I may be one of the least handy guys on this thread).
Cheers,
Coach
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I don't get it either. I don't really race much anymore, but when I did, it was only nominally to see how I'd actually do compared to others in my class. I knew where I stacked up, and I more or less knew where I'd place at any given race.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
But it was always fun to see how much the legit fast guys would beat me by. Seeing how I compared to some national level pro meant I could extrapolate that and figure out how I'd compare to world cup guys (answer: I would lose. By a lot.)
Being proud that you're "local fast" is one thing. Thinking it actually means something is pretty fucking dumb though.
Kinda depends how good you want it to look. Rattle can is fine if your standards are low.Quote:
Originally Posted by coach
That story about the guy being banned from bike shops and deleting a trail once he isn’t the leader is fucking amazing.... what a tool. How painful would it be to live life like that?? Honestly I think those people are just tortured souls as every moment must be some type of pain #existenceispain
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Daddy/mommy issues
This stuff is pretty awesome: https://spraybike.us/Quote:
Originally Posted by coach
Their marketing department is run by hipster squids, but the product is legit.
I vaguely recall a story in the local paper years ago when we still lived in CO. Some lady, a non-racer weekend roadie started just crushing local commute segments. A couple curious folks discovered it was due to her blowing someone in the parking lot at the Amgen facility to get herself some EPO.
Ya think she might need some herb?
Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
Wait, wut? Can she keep a secret?
So, for a "standard" straight 1.5" HT and a "standard" tapered steerer I need a ZS49/28.6 upper and a EC49/40 lower? Does a ZS49/40 lower exist?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Yep. And no, ZS49/40 isn't a thing. Not enough room for the bearing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Cool, thanks.
Back to removing the current headset--buy the Park RT-2 or just DIY one?
Cutting slots in a conduit works, although not nearly as well as a real remover since the conduit metal isn't very springy, so it doesn't do a good job of expanding once in the head tube. But if this is the only headset you foresee removing anytime soon, it's fine. I've also removed them just with a punch and going slowly so as to avoid rocking the cup in the frame. That method is more likely to damage the cup being removed though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Or bring the frame with fork removed to a shop. It's a 15 second process to knock the cup out with the rt-2. They might not even charge you.