Lol.Attachment 278847
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Lol.Attachment 278847
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So the beater sienna minivan power doors stopped working. Both sides, all of a sudden. Not key fob, switches or door handles. I didn’t have time to chase it down but there are only 2 locations that ALL power goes to from all those devices to doors. The turn off switch on the dash and the body ecu. If body ecu was bad other things wouldn’t work either. I basically dropped it off and said please check this switch first. Get call “ after 6 hours of chasing things we found out it was the switch”.
Fuck me
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I keep telling the wife we oughta switch them to manual for awhile so the servo's last longer. it'll be the kids first good lesson on using a meter since the oldest insists on "shutting" the door all the time.
There are lots of discussions and stickies in the sienna forums related to the various malfunctions of the sliding doors. Just recently, the motor crapped out on ours (passenger side only). I snipped and removed most of the cable.
Yeah but both simultaneously is a very short list of problems.
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AgreeQuote:
Originally Posted by detrusor
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When you look at your surroundings and know that you have too many projects going on. And can't even see all the projects.
Ack.
Those mesh bbs wheels are for sale by the way, in case any BMW driving Utah dentists need some wheels... I have snow tires in the right size as well...Attachment 279063
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On a 100-series? I access the oil filter from above.Quote:
Originally Posted by basinbeater
The hundo has a little access plate on the skid plate to get to the filter. 2 bolts and it comes off, there is the filter. Both the Lexus and the cruiser have had the filter in the same place. Driver's side under engine. Access through skid plate.
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Well, there ya go. I guess I can’t remember. It’s been a while on mine. I remember the plate that you can take off because it’s missing on mine.
Mine now has a low mileage tundra engine. I need to decide on synthetic or Dino oil. Thoughts? The older engine was only run on synthetic m1.
I would only run synthetic. Bought on sale.
Outside of cost I can't think of any reason to use Dino oil. And even that's a wash because you can extend the OCI with synthetic.
Swapping tires on the wife's Kia (shut up) yesterday, get the four summer wheels on, torque them down and go to put on the plastic hubcaps.. that need to go on before the lug nuts. When did they start designing them like this?! I'm sure it's some ultra strong plastic from the future but it seemed really odd to me that there's a layer of plastic under the lug that holds the wheels on.
Totally ignorant here, is synthetic that much better than Dino? I understand the time savings of doing changes less frequently. Would consider changing all cars to synthetic. My other 2 cars are over 100k also. I’m not planning to replace them anytime soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Tortoise
I always run myToyota V8 on synthetic. I just use mobile 1. Every Toyota I have ever had was perfectly happy with 5w30 mobile one, from Costco, or Wal Mart, or O'Reilly's or wherever. It's all good man.
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New shoes on the 540. Meaty treads! Went with a staggered setup. 235/45/17 up front and 255/40/17 in the back. Firestone Indy 500 tires are supposed to be the shit., And cheap too. Freshly powder coated style 32 wheels.
Finished up the suspension install on this car. I've been driving around Billy h&r combo up front but stock boge and w sport spring in the back for few days now. Getting the rear done finally makes the car handle like it should. Much more sporty drive now than before with the sticky rubber and stiffer setup.
Outta my way commuters.Attachment 279281Attachment 279282Attachment 279283Attachment 279284Attachment 279285Attachment 279287
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Holy shit those tires look sticky.
I don't think it's a night and day difference since plenty of engines have lasted forever running regular oil. If you're going to change your oil out ever 5k miles then you'd be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Synthetic lasts longer, my VW has 10k mile oil change intervals. And people have doubled that and the oil testing showed lots of life left in the oil.
Where it really shines is at the temperature extremes. It often gets to -30C where I live and synthetic flows much better at those temperatures. And it's less likely to fall apart at high temps so if you're towing or you have a turbo I'd go synthetic
If you have a turbo synthetic for it's ability to handle higher heat compared to traditional oil. Lot's of anecdotal evidence from the last 20 years staying 10 k oil change intervals isn't a good idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
An older car that was designed to run on Dino may start consuming oil or leaking if you switch to synthetic.
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That's true, and it means you should fix the leaks. And use synthetic, then you have happy long life motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by 4matic
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Fix the leaks??!!! If I fixed the leaks, I'd have no idea when she was out of oil. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4cc12faaac.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by basinbeater
AbcdefghAttachment 279385
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This is what I have always followed. My Saab guy whom I truly trust switch me off synthetic in a higher mileage 9-5Quote:
Originally Posted by 4matic
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Some of the good high mileage synthetics have additives to seal up minor leaks. When my cars pass 100k I like to switch to the Catsrol Edge High Mileage formula. Does it do any good? I don't know but it makes me feel better.
Bob is the oil guy is your friend.
I was hoping to not dive into another forum (bob the oil guy).