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Ok, so just starting to build up a bike - and questions arise.
Unpacked a OneUp V2 and saw that the bottom «trigger» is not in line with the rest.
Is this supposed to be like this? A quick search shows pictures of posts where everything lines up.
Pulled it apart, but not able to put it back together in line
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3f1229c057.jpg
It's fine. Mine are like that too. Makes no functional difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by sf
Thanks a lotQuote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Anyone run the Maven brakes yet? I was gonna put TRP DH Evos on my new enduro build, but those Mavens look pretty good.
Broke a chain pedaling up a slight incline out of the saddle, the link snapped. No signs of wear, wasn’t doing anything rad, chain is a couplefew years old and sometimes stored in a damp environment.
Do you guys have a protocol for chain wear besides replacing it when it gets stretched out/ won’t index correctly? My back is not fond of what happened so TIA.
95% of the time, broken chains are due to a damaged link / rivet. Sometimes the damage is from a run in with trail debris, sometimes it's from a bad shift, and sometimes it's from a bad install / repair. But it's *usually* not from wear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Self Jupiter
I use a park go-no-go chain checker and replace when its at .75
sometimes shit just breaks
Modern chains are so much better than the good 'ol days when knee-to-stem was a regular occurrence. I agree that wear was likely not the culprit, but it should be noted that 11s, and especially 12s, drivetrains require that the chain be replaced at < .5% wear, and you really should use a checker that has 3 teeth like the Park CC-4. This will ensure that you can get a few chains out of a cassette/ring before you have to replace everything.
Thanks guys, feels like I didn’t really drop the ball as far as I can tell. I think it was debris. Retrofitted shimano 1x9 on a 2001 Bianchi Grizzly, second chain since I converted it off the top of my head.
Bringing the bike on a road trip next week and looking for a recommendation on locks. I have a Kuat rack with built in lock but looking for something stronger....
A really really really heavy chain.
I’m guessing there are other options but the kryptonite New York has been around for a while and feels solid.
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowday
Kyrptonite motorcycle lock. Bring the bike inside at night unless you are sleeping in the vehicle.Quote:
Originally Posted by snowday
Note: The motorcycle chain style lock is longer than the bicycle lock. The added length is bueno. And yes, that's what she said.
You can also get freaky with airtags, but I have no idea other than air tags exist.
Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
I ordered a set, should be here on Monday. I’ll get some short rides on ‘em next week and let ya know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
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My preference is to get a length of tie down chain. They're hardened steel, and a 15 or 20' length is $70 or so, which still leaves another $70 for a hefty padlock (comparing to the kryptonite price). The kryptonite is gonna be harder to cut, but the extra length of the chain is really useful for locking multiple bikes, running it through fancy carbon wheels, and locking it to something secure. I threaded mine through some old inner tubes so it doesn't scratch bikes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
What kind of black magic do you use when figuring out which dropper size for a new frame up build? I have a new to me Madonna V2.2 frame and I would like to get a dropper ordered. I know max insertion is 225mm for the frame. No idea how I can measure my needed max extension without sitting on the bike and riding it with another dropper already in it. I'm using the link below as a guide. I'm gonna go all in and get an AXS post. Wireless brakes are many years out from actually being a thing probably, but I am so over shifter cables and dropper cables.
https://www.pnwcomponents.com/blogs/...surement-steps
Direct for QBP I assume? Jenson for instance doesn't say when they would ship if ordered.Quote:
Originally Posted by joetron
Measure bottom bracket to rails on another bike with the same saddle to get bb to saddle rail distance. Subtract the seat tube length for dropper extension.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
;Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
The local shop got in several sets for the launch. It's winter, so no actually testing them. My takeaways from playing with a set: The lever feel is familiar and firm, the caliper is massive, the pads out the bottom seem annoying, and seeing through to align the caliper is a little harder without good light. The real question with these is are they too much power, is that a thing?? I will have to ride them before making a judgment.
Longtime Code RSC user, have a set of TRPs on the Dreadnought with Freedom Coast levers.
Pewag 10mm w/ Viro lock:Quote:
Originally Posted by snowday
I have the 8' length hard mounted to my truck bed for tailgate pad use. Pretty much indestructible with anything less than a cut-off wheel, and that takes a very loud 5 minutes.
https://lifting.com/pewag-security-chain-038-kit-3.html
Love the video showing a man hanging off a 4' bolt cutter without putting a scratch on the chain.
The only problem with tie down chain is the case hardening is less than security chain since they're designed for strength, not theft-deterrence. A typical tie-down chain hardness is mid 40s Rc and is susceptible to bolt cutters. The Pewag I described above is 62Rc.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
A little more involved than that. The first part is correct, get that BB:Seat rail measurement and subtract the dropper extension. However, you may still have an issue if the dropper insertion length is more than the frame's seatpost max insertion length. IOW you might not be able to fully stuff the post into the seat tube. This bit me with my wife's Hightower.Quote:
Originally Posted by carlh
For that you need the frame's max seatpost insertion length and a basic schematic of the dropper, showing the inserted length (below the nut) and the exposed length (below nut to rail).
Definitely. The tie down chains are a cheap(er) option that's easy to come by. They're a lot better than a cable or a regular chain, but they certainly don't hold up like a real security chain.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
The real solution, of course, is to not leave expensive bikes anywhere where they're exposed to theft. I'll lock a bike to my car/ truck while I run into somewhere for lunch or a post ride beer where I can keep half an eye on it. But I'd never leave my bike locked to my vehicle overnight in a city, regardless of what lock I'm using.
Cycle Gear motorcycle chain lock. I've recommended it several times here. Cheap, easily available at any Cycle Gear store (a motorcycle accessory store).
https://www.cyclegear.com/accessorie...sku_id=1124058
Yup. Bikes always come into the motel room overnight.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
When dispersed camping I have a 3/4" thick shackle welded to the camper frame right outside the bed. Everything gets chained to that overnight. Not much chance of sleeping through cut-off wheel usage.
Wow, that's a great price for 10mm square chain.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
I paid $40 for the same one in 2016. I keep it in my truck as a backup for extra bikes or less secure situations. Never overnight outside, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
I also have a heavy-duty Abus shrouded chain lock that’s a little easier to use so it’s the one I keep wrapped around my rack for daily use.