Anyone else get some today...?

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Originally Posted by Hugh Conway

Now this would have been a bit unnerving:
http://www.santacruzsentinel.com/ci_...ce=most_viewed


still safer than shitacruz though

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Safer? Are you referring to in water dangers or just the general douchebaggery that is around town?

Similar sighting at Franklin point back in October. The sharks are out there for sure. Still safer than driving to work.

Surf looks decent for the start of the weekend. Trying decide between deteriorating surf and firm snow for Mon/Tues. the little guy is gone for the week. Too bad my car won't make it to where the snow is good right now. Stormy surf is a coming.

Doing ding repair while it's flat, fixing my rail where that goon drove his board into my board. I hate fixing rails. Almost as much as I hate goons that drive their board into my rail.


Edit: I also hate when I take short cuts and think 2 layers of glass will fill up the rail instead of using Qcell to form the rail, now I'm laying glass upon glass like a fucking rookie. Should be able to take a hammer to this ding repair after done

Use Cavacil if it is not too deep. It is heavy, but it works into shape like puddy. You can lighten it with a little Qcell. I only use just glass if the thing is pretty much just flush.

And flat? I surfed head high to two feet OH, clean, vertical, punchy waves. And the new swell started filling in toward the end of my session. Long period 6 foot swells. Loooooong period. I could not really get purchase on the bombs on the 6'0". Besides, tide was a bit of an issue. But man, far from flat. It was thumping this morning.

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I only use just glass if the thing is pretty much just flush

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That's how I thought it was gonna work out, it wasn't a huge deal but my judgement was slightly off. It's looking really good right now and I'm going to make it perfect with some more sanding and then a hot coat to finish it up.

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And the new swell started filling in toward the end of my session. Long period 6 foot swells. Loooooong period.

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20 sec+? That shuts down a lot of places around here. We're usually about 20-24 hours behind you guys on the NW's, so hopefully tomorrow.

More like 19s, but the fire runners might have been longer. They were haulin ass when they hit the reef. Some fun duck diving out there today. Headed back in the morning

get it ott!!!

lookin like chest/head here tomorrow, windy, but the right direction for york. gonna take it easy fer sure. have fun!

rog

Shoulda posted these earlier, from two weeks ago at N. Maroubra when it was cranking. I have no business being out in swell this big but i'm super amazed by guys who do. The first guy is Blake Thornton, not sure about the second.

http://www.michaelvaligorephotograph...g%20wave-L.jpg

http://www.michaelvaligorephotograph...a%20wave-L.jpg

Looks warm. Would love some of that.

Well, Saturday was superb. Wind came up by early Sunday. Surfed my favored point with just a few. Again on Monday with a colder wind, my buddy and one other. While a crazy warble ran through it, they still offered 75 yards or more of head high wall to work.

Now I'm in the cabin waiting for the snow to fall. While we have a nice beefy swell moving in tonight, the storm is going to be right on it. Sure, you could maybe find a spot that was able to work the 25 plus knot onshore, but I doubt it. Betting by noon I'll be making some powder turn instead of surfing in sewage run off.

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Originally Posted by Ottime

Looks warm. Would love some of that.

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You aren't kidding. Even Socal has been colder than usual this winter, mid-50's as opposed to high 50's. Thank god O'Neills tend to be on the warmer side, or I would be suffering.

Surfed Newport yesterday, the jetty on 32nd. I was not expecting much, and had to talk myself into going out. It turned out much better than expected, waist to chest high lefts off the jetty wrapping in. Most would section quickly, but some of them lined up well, all the way to the sand. I love it when those Newp. jetties act like points! There were only a couple of us taking turns, so plenty of waves to be had despite some lulls. Surfed from 300-530, and though it was a bit bumpy the wind did not destroy it. Another one of those great but unexpected sessions, a day when you get really rewarded for paddling out. With a limited crowd there are plenty of waves to be had, sometimes these sessions are better than when it's pumping and the wolves are all out.

The wind this morning is making me not really regret being in the office. Hopefully this stuff will (finally) light up Mt. Baldy.

A bit messy yesterday, the 2-3ft was more fun than i was expecting. CW is calling for 8ft swells here this weekend but wind is all wrong.

1st day back out since the back went nuts on me. been skiing the last 3 days and that's been good. surf this am york was perfect lil waist with stomach high sets and clean. no one out all morning, just me per usual. crazy.

nice long open faced rights. 1st pop up was a bit touchy as i didn't know how my back would feel in 41 degree water. no problems. was def taking off less/no-hands just to be safe.nice to be back in action.

looks like we get into quite an active pattern with ohead surf for the late weekend and beyond.

rog

Couple screen shots from today's session

http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...5&d=1361486641
http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...6&d=1361486672
http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...7&d=1361486690
http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...8&d=1361486712
backside turn
http://stk.tetongravity.com/forums/a...9&d=1361487493

nice piggity. any good footage you're going to share?

almost pulled the trigger on a board on whiskey militia this morning, Surftech Anderson Mollusc at like 60 percent off. 6 2 or 6 4 were available.

If it comes up again, thinking 6 4 would be a good next step from the 7 6 funboard I've been riding most of the winter? Dims: http://surf.surftech.com/featured-bo...erson/mollusc/

Piggity. You are supposed to surf out if the tube, not in to it.

Looks glassy.

Snow has been good to stellar.

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Piggity. You are supposed to surf out if the tube, not in to it.

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Seriously? Fuck, I thought going in the front door and punching through the back was what people called a doggy door. There goes my signature move


J, 6'4"x22"x2.63" will have some good float for a short board. See if u can try a similar board before buying it. I'm not sure about posting any POV, it's even worse footage than skiing. And we all know how great that can be

Hey. If no one else is doing your move then it is ground breaking revolutionary shit. Keep at it.

nice pics pigs!!!

lil noreast swell running this am. walked the dog down at 7am and twas only knee/thigh. went back home and let the swell fill in. surfed from 845-945 in sold waist/chest with some head sets. north wind was adding some texture, but the 5'8" leashless kechele was eating the shit up. such a smooth board. had a couple of absolute screaming rights to floater finishes:)

next week gets interesting. snow what? :D

rog

Went out last night for first post-work session since November or so. Finally, some light until 615!

The super short period made paddling around pretty tough, especially to my 1-2 session per week arms. Tons of water moving around. Good to be out anyhow, waves were still stomach high + or so.

Heading out for another post-work this evening assuming winds don't pick up like yesterday. Waves still coming through in Carlsbad as of my ride to work this morning.

Thinking about heading out in the next hour or so. Some light offshores right now so letting the tide drop a little bit for some optimum perfectness.

J, was thinking about your question and thought of a few questions I shoulda asked before replying. Have you tried any other boards similar to that size? How are you doing on that 7'6"? What's driving the move down in size? Are you looking at that board because it's cheap or because you fondled it and love it? What about that 6'10"?

The drop down in size to a 6'4" will be a pretty big difference for paddle power and stability. Sometimes a shorter board ='s lack of paddle power on bigger days and can make for paddling in place against the current or being late on the drop and pitched into the flats, I have first hand experience in that area. The offset here is the better duck diving ability of a shorter board when done properly. If you have not ridden similar dimensions then try out a similar board and get a feel for what you want before dropping some cash. You might even be able to demo that board if you look around town

busy family weekend. very nice, but was definitely ready to get in the water as soon as everyone left. glad i did.

head+ and just one guy out in york. he stayed out 20 minutes into my sesh then i had over a mile o beach all to myself in nice clean conditions while snow was puking from the sky. we got a good 8" of snow starting at 9am this morning and it just keeps on coming. love snowstorm surfing solid waves. usually i set up the 5'8 as a thruster when it's approaching head high, but was too lazy to switch and had a blast with it as a quad. nice, fast, and loose! had some great long top to bottom rights and lefts.

was supposed to head north and tour with friends tomorrow and tuesday, but there's no way in hell i'm leaving this swell. should be head to a coupla feet ohead through wednesday and up to head through friday with good winds more often than not. with just 2 of us out on a sunday, i shouldn't see a soul all week! perfect waves and no people ftw!!!:D

hope you got out today pigman!!!

rog

great morning. head to a coupla feet ohead on the sets, clean, sunny. super fun 2 hours out there. suit's drying for the afternoon sesh.
the wave i came in on was one of the better ones in awhile. set wave all the way to the stairs. super cruisy and sweepy.

rog

Hey rog, do you have enough snow on mt aggir to make turns? Always thought it would be fun to surf all morning and get a lap or two in the afternoon. I used to hike and bike around there and I recall some nicely spaced old growth and small cliff bands.

I got back from 5 days of storm lift riding and bluebird touring on Saturday night. Surf was pumping Sunday morning, but I could do not much more than nap and Han with the family. Maybe sunset tonight.

Newport had perfect offshores yesterday....and it was 1-2.

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Originally Posted by Ottime

Hey rog, do you have enough snow on mt aggir to make turns? Always thought it would be fun to surf all morning and get a lap or two in the afternoon. I used to hike and bike around there and I recall some nicely spaced old growth and small cliff bands.

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plenty of snow. been good skiing up there since late december. a few thaws knocked it down some. the mtn is 6 miles from my door and being one mile from the surf it's very easy to do both, or do double sessions of both:) i prefer surfing and skiing mt washington in the same day with a mid day mtb ride thrown in for good measure. trifecta!!!

aggy last week on the skinny sticks makin turns in the sw glades. lot's of stuff out there

http://distilleryimage4.instagram.co...0a1f9d75_7.jpg

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I got back from 5 days of storm lift riding and bluebird touring on Saturday night. Surf was pumping Sunday morning, but I could do not much more than nap and Han with the family. Maybe sunset tonight.

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sounds nice.:)

rog

Brought out my newbie friend for his last couple sessions before heading back to VT. Perfect offshores in the morning with some small, fun LB waves. Took a break, and went out again in the afternoon. Conditions really deteriorated and was pretty closed out. He got up on the whitewater several times throughout the day, and a couple green waves, so all in all great session.

67 air temp helped things too. Probably in for a post-work session today if the wind doesn't pick up. This morning looked really swamped.