Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

With the exception of the small green bottles, propane tanks must be stored outside the vehicle. I once filled up a 25 pounder in winter when the bottle was cold then put it inside the heated van for the trip home and and the pressure relief valve went off filling the van with gas. Luckily nothing electrical set it off or I wouldn't be writing this today

Thanks guys for the input. And agree Apex, outside storage or adequate venting will be reviewed.

Thinking of switching to induction but need to calculate whether our power can run it. Anyone know how to calculate that shit?

I was researching capacity recently and found this video. Based on comments and # of views, I think it is all good info.

https://youtu.be/zTi_NQzUZvc?si=1OHW_z8p-0xssc-X

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Originally Posted by Name Redacted

Thinking of switching to induction but need to calculate whether our power can run it. Anyone know how to calculate that shit?

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Maybe even just run a hot pot since all i ever do is boil water it seems like. If im using flame, it is on the grill.

And we seem to have a small propane leak somewhere.

Most induction ranges need 40-50a at 250v same as a normal electric range.

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Originally Posted by Name Redacted

Maybe even just run a hot pot since all i ever do is boil water it seems like. If im using flame, it is on the grill.

And we seem to have a small propane leak somewhere.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Iowagriz

I was researching capacity recently and found this video. Based on comments and # of views, I think it is all good info.

https://youtu.be/zTi_NQzUZvc?si=1OHW_z8p-0xssc-X

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That's a nice video for "101 level" getting introduced. It took him a while to get into efficiency losses from inverters, but the way he presented it was sensible. However, the biggest glaring issue I noticed is avoiding getting into discharge rate and wiring. He should have at least mentioned that these are major caveats to get into in a followup video, because in some cases you might run the simple math and think that a single battery can cover your needs, when in reality two batteries in parallel may be needed to keep the discharge current within specs.

1) The rated Amp-hours capacity of deep cycle batteries are given at a 20 hour discharge rate, meaning for example that a 6V Golf Cart flooded lead acid battery may be presented as a "230 Ah capacity" but that's only when it's discharged over a 20 hour period. The simple assumption is, well if I draw 230A then I can get 1 hour of capacity, right? No, because lead acid deep cycle batteries get less and less efficient at higher discharge rates. You need to look at the battery spec sheet's capacity at the discharge rates you are planning on using! And in fact you can't sustainably draw anywhere close to 200A from a golf cart battery!

2) Different battery chemistries have different safe discharge currents, you need to look at the battery spec sheet to be sure. If a battery spec sheet says it can be discharged at 100 A for up to 1 hour, well then that's 100A * nominal voltage (let's use 12.5V to keep it simple) = 1,250 W peak current. That's before efficiency losses converting up to 120VAC, if we use 90% inverter efficiency then we discover that this hypothetical battery can really only provide 1100W at 120VAC, which might be enough for a 900W coffee maker but not a 1500W kettle or an 1800W induction cooktop. More batteries would be needed to add to the available peak current when running in parallel. I also didn't factor in wiring losses ...

3) Most factory built RVs have DC wiring from the battery to handle 50-60A of current max, back to the DC distribution bus and AC-DC power converter. To get more current from the battery bank to an inverter that will power a hungry appliance, you are talking about adding fat wiring based on the wire's rated ampacity to handle the peak loads with some margin of safety. This is why you usually see large inverters located as close to the battery as possible, because AC wires only need to carry 1/10th the current that DC wires do.

These are all pretty major caveats that guy needs to hint at toward the end of his video: discharge rate and wiring!

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Originally Posted by carlh

Most induction ranges need 40-50a at 250v same as a normal electric range.

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There are portable induction tops that are 1200-1800W @ 120VAC.

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Originally Posted by Name Redacted

Maybe even just run a hot pot since all i ever do is boil water it seems like. If im using flame, it is on the grill.

And we seem to have a small propane leak somewhere.

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I have no direct experience but if just trying to power a single small induction cooktop then it should be doable based on what I've covered above. To do it with less hassle/cost one probably would want an inverter to a dedicated AC outlet as opposed to running a pass-through inverter that powers the entire AC breaker panel. What kind of RV rig are we talking about here? And are you thinking to DIY or have a shop do it?

Thanks for the additional context and info. My summer goal is to get this all down on paper, as well as experiment on trips with my van. I'm not worried about current needs, but want to learn and improve the system if possible.

200w solar
2 AGM batteries (haven't crawled under to get actual specs)
1000w inverter
LED lights on interior
Water pump
Gas Furnace and elec fan
Electric roof fan
Tv (not often used)
Charging of phones and Bluetooth speaker

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Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio

That's a nice video for "101 level" getting introduced. It took him a while to get into efficiency losses from inverters, but the way he presented it was sensible. However, the biggest glaring issue I noticed is avoiding getting into discharge rate and wiring. He should have at least mentioned that these are major caveats to get into in a followup video, because in some cases you might run the simple math and think that a single battery can cover your needs, when in reality two batteries in parallel may be needed to keep the discharge current within specs.

1) The rated Amp-hours capacity of deep cycle batteries are given at a 20 hour discharge rate, meaning for example that a 6V Golf Cart flooded lead acid battery may be presented as a "230 Ah capacity" but that's only when it's discharged over a 20 hour period. The simple assumption is, well if I draw 230A then I can get 1 hour of capacity, right? No, because lead acid deep cycle batteries get less and less efficient at higher discharge rates. You need to look at the battery spec sheet's capacity at the discharge rates you are planning on using! And in fact you can't sustainably draw anywhere close to 200A from a golf cart battery!

2) Different battery chemistries have different safe discharge currents, you need to look at the battery spec sheet to be sure. If a battery spec sheet says it can be discharged at 100 A for up to 1 hour, well then that's 100A * nominal voltage (let's use 12.5V to keep it simple) = 1,250 W peak current. That's before efficiency losses converting up to 120VAC, if we use 90% inverter efficiency then we discover that this hypothetical battery can really only provide 1100W at 120VAC, which might be enough for a 900W coffee maker but not a 1500W kettle or an 1800W induction cooktop. More batteries would be needed to add to the available peak current when running in parallel. I also didn't factor in wiring losses ...

3) Most factory built RVs have DC wiring from the battery to handle 50-60A of current max, back to the DC distribution bus and AC-DC power converter. To get more current from the battery bank to an inverter that will power a hungry appliance, you are talking about adding fat wiring based on the wire's rated ampacity to handle the peak loads with some margin of safety. This is why you usually see large inverters located as close to the battery as possible, because AC wires only need to carry 1/10th the current that DC wires do.

These are all pretty major caveats that guy needs to hint at toward the end of his video: discharge rate and wiring!



There are portable induction tops that are 1200-1800W @ 120VAC.



I have no direct experience but if just trying to power a single small induction cooktop then it should be doable based on what I've covered above. To do it with less hassle/cost one probably would want an inverter to a dedicated AC outlet as opposed to running a pass-through inverter that powers the entire AC breaker panel. What kind of RV rig are we talking about here? And are you thinking to DIY or have a shop do it?

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Thanks for writing that, it's very informative.

My van is wired as you describe to power the single induction cooktop that came w it from Winnebago. I have only used the cooktop a few times, but we use our 1500w kettle all the time and it works very well.

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Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio

I have not yet tried running the Volcanno off my 1 gallon / 4 lbs cylinder. I’d probably suggest a 2 gallon cylinder if you don’t want to refill often. Snow Dog, what size pail are you using to keep your cylinder upright? 5 gallon cylinders fit perfectly in milk crates, I have no idea what size bucket/pail for 2 gallon cylinders, and if they are anywhere as stable as the milk crate!

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I think it's a 3 gallon pail but a fat 2 gallon would work too. There's no standard shape for a 10# (or 5#) propane tank. I use milk crates for the 20# tanks.

I have a counter top induction so the gf can try out induction (we have a gas cooktop). It's great for heating water and soups. It plugs into the usual 15A circuit but at full power will trip the breaker.

Attachment 491001
Nice spot on the ID/MT border tonight.

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Originally Posted by singlecross

Attachment 491001
Nice spot on the ID/MT border tonight.

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Sweet

How is the Mrs. doing?

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Originally Posted by Vt-Freeheel

Sweet

How is the Mrs. doing?

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Thanks for asking… Weight bearing as tolerated. Walking with a knee brace and a cane. Just dropped her and The Kid at the Spokane airport after a 8 day PNW college tour trip. Red eye to Boston and an appointment at Mass General midweek.

I’m back to Bridger with Kid 2 flying in for a couple days of skiing and then solo down to Colorado before pointing the rig East.

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Originally Posted by singlecross

Thanks for asking… Weight bearing as tolerated. Walking with a knee brace and a cane. Just dropped her and The Kid at the Spokane airport after a 8 day PNW college tour trip. Red eye to Boston and an appointment at Mass General midweek.

I’m back to Bridger with Kid 2 flying in for a couple days of skiing and then solo down to Colorado before pointing the rig East.

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Stop by in Utah ;)

Mrs Singlecross is in our thoughts, hope all is well & she has a quick recovery!

Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by singlecross

Attachment 491001
Nice spot on the ID/MT border tonight.

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Wow, my camper is exactly the same. Great set up eh?
What truck do you have?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio

That's a nice video for "101 level" getting introduced. It took him a while to get into efficiency losses from inverters, but the way he presented it was sensible. However, the biggest glaring issue I noticed is avoiding getting into discharge rate and wiring. He should have at least mentioned that these are major caveats to get into in a followup video, because in some cases you might run the simple math and think that a single battery can cover your needs, when in reality two batteries in parallel may be needed to keep the discharge current within specs.

1) The rated Amp-hours capacity of deep cycle batteries are given at a 20 hour discharge rate, meaning for example that a 6V Golf Cart flooded lead acid battery may be presented as a "230 Ah capacity" but that's only when it's discharged over a 20 hour period. The simple assumption is, well if I draw 230A then I can get 1 hour of capacity, right? No, because lead acid deep cycle batteries get less and less efficient at higher discharge rates. You need to look at the battery spec sheet's capacity at the discharge rates you are planning on using! And in fact you can't sustainably draw anywhere close to 200A from a golf cart battery!

2) Different battery chemistries have different safe discharge currents, you need to look at the battery spec sheet to be sure. If a battery spec sheet says it can be discharged at 100 A for up to 1 hour, well then that's 100A * nominal voltage (let's use 12.5V to keep it simple) = 1,250 W peak current. That's before efficiency losses converting up to 120VAC, if we use 90% inverter efficiency then we discover that this hypothetical battery can really only provide 1100W at 120VAC, which might be enough for a 900W coffee maker but not a 1500W kettle or an 1800W induction cooktop. More batteries would be needed to add to the available peak current when running in parallel. I also didn't factor in wiring losses ...

3) Most factory built RVs have DC wiring from the battery to handle 50-60A of current max, back to the DC distribution bus and AC-DC power converter. To get more current from the battery bank to an inverter that will power a hungry appliance, you are talking about adding fat wiring based on the wire's rated ampacity to handle the peak loads with some margin of safety. This is why you usually see large inverters located as close to the battery as possible, because AC wires only need to carry 1/10th the current that DC wires do.

These are all pretty major caveats that guy needs to hint at toward the end of his video: discharge rate and wiring!



There are portable induction tops that are 1200-1800W @ 120VAC.



I have no direct experience but if just trying to power a single small induction cooktop then it should be doable based on what I've covered above. To do it with less hassle/cost one probably would want an inverter to a dedicated AC outlet as opposed to running a pass-through inverter that powers the entire AC breaker panel. What kind of RV rig are we talking about here? And are you thinking to DIY or have a shop do it?

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I have two 135Ah lithium batteries, a 175 solar panel, Redarc TVMS Rogue/Manager 30 system, and wiring connected to the alternator to charge everything while driving.

I assume I will need an inverter. I am not an electrician, but willing to try, or just pay someone to do it.

Also, like I said, a hot pot might be sufficient because we boil water more than anything with the cooktop now.

https://www.costco.com/.product.100982895.html


Jackery Explorer 1500 + 2 100W SolarSaga Panels $1300


Not sure if this is a good deal or not. The sale ends 3/22/24

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Originally Posted by garyfromterrace

Wow, my camper is exactly the same. Great set up eh?
What truck do you have?

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Yes, we have been enjoying the Lance. This 8 week trip has been great for making a list of things that we’d like to tinker with for better winter/ski use.

Truck is a 2006 F-250 5.4L gasser with an extra leaf and airbags in the rear.

Attachment 491076

It seems like no matter how much you spend all on these rvs, they all seem to need some additional work to make them ready for ski/winter camping. What are the things on your list?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by singlecross

Thanks for asking… Weight bearing as tolerated. Walking with a knee brace and a cane. Just dropped her and The Kid at the Spokane airport after a 8 day PNW college tour trip. Red eye to Boston and an appointment at Mass General midweek.

I’m back to Bridger with Kid 2 flying in for a couple days of skiing and then solo down to Colorado before pointing the rig East.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by tgapp

Stop by in Utah ;)

Mrs Singlecross is in our thoughts, hope all is well & she has a quick recovery!

Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

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/\/\/\ Truth.

PT soft ... Then PT hard!


A pleasure skiing and hanging out with you two.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner

https://www.costco.com/.product.100982895.html


Jackery Explorer 1500 + 2 100W SolarSaga Panels $1300


Not sure if this is a good deal or not. The sale ends 3/22/24

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That is a really good deal.

I may pick this up for my island. I currently have a much smaller Jackery and solar panel that works great, but this would be a big upgrade in power.

Thanks for posting.


Sent from my island using TGR Forums

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Name Redacted

Looking for suggestions for an enclosed ski box to mount to the rear of our scout camper. Needs to sit above the tail lights, which puts it pretty high up, but really want something fully enclosed so skis can just be stored in their long term.

Considered hitch racks but there's nothing fully enclosed. But if there was, Might be interested in that.

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Not sure on the scout dimensions, but we had this mounted to our arctic fox for a while. Will see if I can find any pics. I can't do boxes that don't have racks inside. Shit banging around drives me insane.

https://i0.wp.com/avataroffroad.com/...10%2C758&ssl=1

^^^Sweet!

My buddy says it's 87F in Death Valley today, was thinking of going down in a week or 2 to catch perhaps a superbloom, but that's too effin hot for me.

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Originally Posted by Stuntmonkey

Not sure on the scout dimensions, but we had this mounted to our arctic fox for a while. Will see if I can find any pics. I can't do boxes that don't have racks inside. Shit banging around drives me insane.

https://i0.wp.com/avataroffroad.com/...10%2C758&ssl=1

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That's like #vanlife version of Man Cave. That's awesome.