Wife declined.
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I do the maintenance schedule ^^ every day of operation
but I'm pretty sure STOP is to run the saw until it doesnt run then fuck around with the screws on the carb and then post on TGR " Fucking husky/ sthil/ your saw of choice, how come this fucking thing doesnt run ? "
and I've seen guys who should know better show up with a saw and a bunch of parts from the saw store to start rebuilding the saw on the tailgate
I found a dakine builder's pack on-line so i'm excited about that
Chain tensioner might be worn out.
Bar nuts might be worn.
Nose sprocket could be worn or the whole bar.
Hopefully something simple. Good luck at it.
Make sure the hole in the bar that takes the oil into the groove isn’t plugged.
To close stuff up: I cleaned the thing super well and found impacted sawdust on the back of the bar.
Chipped that off, brushed out the sprocket chamber, picked out all the little pockets of goo.
Reassembled with a slightly saggy chain, it worked great this afternoon.
Gotta love it when a good cleaning makes stuff work again!!
Anybody heard/used the new stihl hexa saw chain? I gotta an earful about it today at a shop. Supposedly, one of the Calfire units may start carrying them because of cutting chains and durability. Interesting looking files.
dp
This isn’t really about chainsaws, it’s just a light-hearted moment with a chainsaw in it.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Wildfire/co..._this_happens/
Oh dang
Picked up a used Greenworks 80v 18" bar saw at a thrift store with battery + charger for $100, things bigger than I need for a truck saw, but the deal was right!
Not a huge electric fanboi but thats ^^ where I could see owning an electric, for a truck its going to be cleaner & no storage of fuel issues
I read some online beta about that Sthil Hexa chain, its a different profile of chain & file, apparently its a tinny bit faster, might be smoother , I have 3 conventional chains/ files/ filing jigs ( will they work?) so I probably wouldn't be jumping ship to Hexa right away if I was still cutting wood and its a Sthil product so it will be interesting to see if other users adopt Hexa
Some advanced user feedback I found :
" I bought a Hexa kit a few weeks ago. It was 2 X 66dl 063 Hexa chains, a file and a handle in a box.
Yes, to sharpen it you will need the hexagonal file.
My initial thoughts were that it's easy to sharpen and that would probably be its selling point, but after letting 2 other people try it I'm not so sure now.
Cutting speed is faster on small saws because it cuts a smaller kerf. I have used it on a 390 and a 361 and it was faster. Using it on a dolmar 7900 it cuts the same speed as RS. If you have customers that use 3/8 on a 261 they will probably like it.
The biggest difference for me is that it cuts smoother. RS chain, in the hardwoods I cut, chatters a lot when new and when sharpened to the recommended angles. To avoid it I file with a 10 degree down and have the side plate at 80 degrees otherwise I end up with numb hands by lunchtime.
Hexa doesn't do this anywhere near as bad as RS. It's not quite as smooth as RSL but close.
I cut with it all day yesterday just blocking firewood and it's working well. I'm about to start clearing a fence line today and will be cutting for the next 4 or 5 days to finish the job so I'll report back after that. It's a good mix of small saplings and trees up to 25 inches or so plus whatever larger stuff has fallen down so should be a reasonable test. I have a loop of Hexa, 1 RSLF and a RS chain I got yesterday so I'll swap between them and see if there's much difference. "
except it leaks bar oil like a sieve.
I was gona add "Except for the leaking chain oiler " even a premium saw will leak
my Sthil came with a spare chain/ hat/ plastic case and those cases are great for transporting the saw in a vehical or wherever, my 261 is sitting in a spare bedroom kinda mostly sealed
Well, six years with the Milwaukee and this came up. Truly a piss poor design imo, but apparently I was over torquing the bar, so maybe on me a little. I guess I prefer chainsaw bolts to be tight [emoji16]
It's only this plastic cover that will hold the bolts in now, so I think she's toast. Was thinking of a Jerry fix, but not worth it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2882ff04a6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...44a4901b2c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a9491791ec.jpg
^ wow. doesn't seem like it should reasonably possible to over-torque. i'm sure not using a torque wrench on my bars
what did milwaukee say, maybe will do something for ya - pro form or discount code or something?
you're right - not worth it to jerry rig.
somewhere in the last 80 threads i made the statement " buy right and you only buy once "
edit: if those 2 bolts were welded to the same anchor plate that would not have happened, bad design and good reason to spend the $$$ on a better saw
This was 1st gen and I'm hearing it's been fixed with a piece of metal in there somewhere. Speaking with my arborist friend same issue happened with some Stihl models also. Apparently there are torque specs for bars, but yeah who the hell would do that... especially in the field.
I am going to reach out to the Milwaukee Rep. They have a lot of wiggle room to make things good whether it be batteries or something else.
Call that 1800sawdust. I bet they take care of you. They really don’t give a shit about the warranty stuff, they want happy customers. I’ve had great luck with them. Grinders, skill saw, drill, impact, all beat to shit and replaced. Grease gun I had to pay the max fee to get it fixed and it was like $100. Worth it.
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Interesting oak hazard tree. Took a while to come up with a plan on this onehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...367ff6dc4f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...58ff956455.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fc563b2411.jpg
^ :eek:
Well played.
Yikes, not a lot of wood holding that
Is "run like hell when she starts to go" really a plan? :)
Still shot from the video I took today dropping a huge widow maker.
Attachment 497616
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I'm looking for a battery saw to cut lots of firewood. Power, battery life and short charge time are my main criteria, as well as being modular so I can eventually get a mower or other tools. After some reading of this thread and other research, these are on the list:
-Greenworks GS181
-Ego Power+ CS 1800
-Ego Power+ CS 2005
-Greenworks Pro 8V
-Echo DCS 5000
What else should I be looking at?
^ I’m in the Milwaukee system (drills, string trimmer, various etc.) and I’ve got their pole saw. I haven’t used their regular chain saw, but based on the performance of the pole saw and the other Milwaukee tools I have and the variety they have available I’d look at their 20” saw.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/2827-22
there are all kinds of compro's on-line for gas vs electric chainsaws and i think they will all say if you want to cut a LOT of fire wood go gas
so pro gas industrial grade saw hopfully from your good local dealer
locally my sthil dealer is a real saw shop so they are awesume, but my surviving husky dealer sucks so i'm into Sthil but i could have gone either way before the good Huskey dealer shut down
there was one compro i think from that wranglestar dude where he said this electric saw doesn't cut much, vibrates and chatters while this gas sthil cuts smoothly so I would look at > battery life
I have the 16" Milwaukee, and I like it a lot. It's nice to not need ear protection, and it's handy for normal small saw type tasks. I use it for trail work pretty often.
That said, I would never take it to cut firewood or to cut any decent sized trees. The battery (12ah) is maybe the equivalent of half a tank of gas in my 455, and a truckload of firewood usually takes me about 2.5 tanks. And despite whatever stats Milwaukee will invent about torque and cutting speed, the gas saw cuts significantly faster. Cutting up a truck's worth of firewood would require like $1000 worth of batteries and would take at least 50% longer than with the gas saw. I'm sure the 20" Milwaukee with its dual batteries lasts a bit longer and cuts a bit faster, but I'm still entirely skeptical that it'll keep up with a run of the mill gas saw when doing a lot of cutting. Also worth noting that the milwaukee is almost 20 lbs, which is quite a bit heavier than pretty much any gas saw.
From a quick look at the Egos and Echos on that list, they all look to be less capable than the Milwaukees. Less power, significantly smaller batteries, etc. If you're looking to make a few cuts here and there on mostly small trees, they'll probably work fine. But if you're looking to cut a few cords of wood in a somewhat efficient fashion, just get a gas saw.
so what IS the point of the battery saws, a small 1 acre lot ?
I basically never use my small gas saw anymore - the electric has fully replaced it.
Either I'm doing something that doesn't require a ton of cutting (trail work, trail maintenance, small backyard tasks), in which case I'm using the small electric, or I'm cutting firewood (or maybe cutting a large tree off a trail) in which case I use the bigger gas saw. It's a good 2 saw quiver.
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well what are you cutting, are you cutting a ski run or line cutting, or running a saw for 6 hrs or wanking about on your small property ?
I was just drinking beer with jake the line cutting surveyor who still has 35km of line to cut, so they run a 362 maybe get 3 tanks and call er a days
This is good for me to hear. Not necessarily what I want to hear, but kinda what I suspected. Some reviews out there, and certainly the marketing hype make it sound like prosumer level battery saws and cut a trucks worth of wood, but sounds like that's not really the case in real life. Since bucking cords of woods is mostly what I want, I'll probably just get a gasser.
Yeah for firewood cutting I'd go gas every time. I love my dual 18v Makita saw for homeowner and light trail clearing use, though. I cut through a 24" downed tree on 2 sets of batteries once. (2 full cuts to remove a section.)