I was asking for help with the tear...Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Printable View
I was asking for help with the tear...Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...78f03003a4.jpg
I put a sizable tear in the thin BD momix skins. To fix it I stripped the glue around the area, sewed with dental floss, and aqua sealed it. Then reapplied some glue. I bet you could get away with stripping the glue then applying one of those gear aid tenacious tape gore Tex patches then a thin layer of aqua seal and re applying skin glue over the area. The dental floss is good but leaves a slightly noticeable lump.
I thought that was an EC 1st decent. Like the thumb photo, I was fooled by the internet.
IME fixing literaly hundreds of drysuits which always had to be 100% dry, in 5 yrs I never sewed anything just patch with AQS by gluing on a piece of nylon or gortex to overlap the repair
I've seen the dental floss thing before, it works but usually what will happen is the holes enlarge so the skin pulls to one side
if your skin ripped while just taking it off the ski, if the hardware fucked up from just being walked on, your skins are not fine
if the glue fucks up well that happens so just replace it
if the glue fucks up and there is no way to fix it that is not fine
I don't really think much of the latest designs
So a bit more gap.than I thought there would be. Around 3mm per side in the waist but more near the tip. Still ok to use , or just stop being cheap and get new skins?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...da3d7c134a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7c0d20a10f.jpg
Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk
You will probably be OK but I think it would depend on where you ski
I didnt have full coverage at Rogers pass which is steep and was back sliding into tree wells, I went back the next year with W2W skins and my error was obvious
i still got & use that setup with those skins but now I know the limitations of the setup
I'm sure you'll be fine, what's the worst that can happen?
Ha. I remember you telling that story here years ago. I think that's where my concern subconsciously comes from.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
This is a heavy as fuck travel / hybrid setup , so odds of skinning anything too steep with it are slim. Icy high traffic tracks are possible though. I just would prefer to keep from backsliding into tree wells .
It's like the "should you eat it" thread. Just use them. You'll be fine.
Sidehilling on firm/icy stuff is going to suck with that. If you can keep your skins flat on the snow, you'll be fine. Only you know your use case. I'd probably be fine with that for a winter only setup, but not a chance for spring use.
He's from philly, he got this jawn.
My emergency skins that sit in the top box for when I forget my skins are about 90mm. I used them on 109 skis. Forget side hilling. Go straight up. This is the way.
I used a 98mm skin on my DWT (112mm) for a season, developed really really good skinning technique, I have since moved to a 110mm skin but the lessons learned were invaluable. So it is doable 98 to 104 you really shouldn't have any problems in my viewQuote:
Originally Posted by Duffman
Youse bet. (That is until I slide back into a tree well and end up with Embiid knee )Quote:
Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark
" dribs and drabs of snow here are 15cm " said the parks guy at the rogers pass-sign in, we would come back after a weekend time-out in Banff and there is 1/2 a meter of new snow so the up-track gets set pretty steep but if it hasnt snowed the existing skin track can be pretty slick but OTOH no snow for a couple weeks and we could ski all kinds of places that might normaly be too dangerous
I got the Dynafit Stoke & Denali with the lazer cut pomoca's and a lotus 120 with W2W cut G3's, they have all been reglued with gold label, I am a big proponenet of the dentists learning to re-glue
I think how soft a ski is has some effect on how well it grips the snow
I've noticed a trend that people will often sell a ski without the binding but with the skin that was cut for it
I've got several pairs of skins that I'm looking to reglue (Pomoca, BD, & G3). I'm debating between using BD Gold Label glue and a can of Pomoca glue. The Pomoca glue can with a foam roller looks like the easiest to apply, but I'm more interested in which will perform better over a longer period of time. Thanks for any input.
Sent from my SM-N970U using TGR Forums mobile app
BD Gold Label is the gold standard. I’d heard something about European skin glue not being as good because of regulation, but that could just be right wing conspiracy nonsense.Quote:
Originally Posted by TNThor
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
The local ski store had tubes of Pomoca that had been on the shelf for many years
the tube did say it could be a problem for pregnant women in California
Since I was neither pregnant or in California I tried a tube of the Pomoca product
it didnt seem any better or worse than Gold label
Quote:
Originally Posted by TNThor
As someone who has reglued around 200 pairs of skins, I can tell you there's is no performance difference between any of the tubes of glue. And you need less than you think.
1 tube will easily reglue 3 skins. 1 can of Pomoca glue will do 7-8 skins.
A heat gun a two putty knives (one for removal and one for application) as well as some method to secure the skin to a work surface are all you need
Question for Sargentdrufus
Have you reglued any Montana glueless skins?
Removal with a heat gun and scrapper seems iffy with my sample piece as does reglue. Tried gold label glue and pomoca sheet.
Both seem to peel off. Internet search claims backing won't hold glue.
Thanks in advance.
Curious how long your Montana's lasted?Quote:
Originally Posted by wra
yeah my experiance with a tube of gold label on glueless was a large 15$ ball of goldlabel and a wasting a couple of hrsQuote:
Originally Posted by wra
I really would like to know how the Sarg does it ??
I wonder if using less glue is better for the problems with the glue hydrolizing ???
the thing is you don't get much experience on this stuff
Attachment 491406
Hey! I bought some new Pomoca pinks. I almost sorta thought about some Contour hybrids, but snapped outa my drunken stupor. I got a zillion miles out of my BD ultralights, after 3-4 regluings.
I love the color.
I really would like to know how the Sarg does it ??
OK I know what happened in recently in another skin gluing post the Sarge posted that glue would not stick to another brand of glueless skin he hadnt tried regluing until very recently
I do not know which thread or which skins but mayb you wana check
I think I tried once to do a pair of Montanas and realize about 10 seconds it there was no chance. Heat gun would have destroyed them and the force required to remove the glue otherwise with scraping would also not be good for the skin. So I gave them back and said sorry, you are gonna want to buy new stuff. Gecko glueless it doesnt work Montana glueless cant reglue. Contour hybrid you can reglue but it is a PITA but I do it for people for $75. My regular reglue service is $50 per pair. Over the last 5 years I have probably done upward of 500 pair.
well there you go right from the pro ^^ hey Sarge how many skins or pairs of skins do you do with 1 tube of gold label
I have always used a tube for a pair but i think you stretch a tube out more ?
it’s almost as if they made the tubes the size that you would need to reglue one pair of skins…..
how weird
And then what would the averag end loser do with the rest of the tube which is why i have always just used the whole tube for a set of skin altho some people just open a tube smear a litte and don't heat the glue even tho it sez hot glue and that apparently still works
But the Sarge has reglued a LOT of skins so he could use a tube for a couple of pairs of skins or even more and i'm pretty sure he does not use a whole tbe tube for a set of skins
SO I'm curious how much he uses and why also curious if a thinner app of glue would not become hydrolized so work better ??
We're you able to reglue the Contour Hybrids with regular glue (ie BD or Pomoca)? I'd be curious to hear what was a PITA about this, as I've been interested in regluing a pair of these!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sargentdrufus
It just takes longer and is harder to get the hybrid glue off all the way vs. the way it is with regular glue. But I've done plenty of them you can very much remove it and replace with regular skin glueQuote:
Originally Posted by lazyasian
Skin question for the pros - I've got some contour hybrids that I have generally really liked, but for some reason (long storage maybe? I got them used and they had the issue) in some relatively small areas the glue has come loose and stuck to other parts of the skin. So now I've got a few small areas with no glue, and others where the glue is stuck in thicker globs. They work fine at the moment, and the problem doens't seem to be getting worse, but if it could be an issue I'd like to get in front of it. Worse trying to fix it, or just leave it be? And if I want to fix it, what's the best method?
If they are sticking and nothing's coming off on your skis just leave itQuote:
Originally Posted by waxloaf
That’s easy enough! Thanks man
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I said it in the glue thread. If you want to restore glueless skins just toss them in the washing machine on a delicate cycle with detergent and oxy powder. It works incredibly well. I did a 23 transition traverse with no failures. They are really nice for quick transitions and quick rips. I now wash them like my base layers and socks... about every 10 tours.
Just adding to the collective wisdom that I had better than expected success in fixing old gloppy glue by directly ironing the glue.
I’ve tried the paper bag method in the past with mixed results and picking bits of paper out of the skin. I cut out the middle layer and just did two slow full passes ~thirty seconds per pass then let cool overnight.
So far decent results after a few tours in wet and hot conditions. If new skins are 100%, I find a full reglue brings things back to 80%, this 5 minute procedure seemed to get things back to 65%. I’ve found the paper back method to be more like <50% return to original condition. If it matters it was pomoca glue.
IME ironing glue that is glopping and Transfering to base didn't really last that long so i supose you could keep doing it as needed or bite the bullet and reglue outside when the weather is good
btw DONOT iron your glue using news paper instead of a paper bag cuz it will create a fucking mess
Get a respirator with VOC blocking filters for your next reglue and save your brain
I guess Im glad I didnt have much brain to start with, have done probably a couple hundred reglues over the past 5 seasons, never once used a respirator. Also why the paper bag on until it cools? the idea is to remove the top layer of glue that has gone funky, pull the bag off and let it cool naked as it were, and youll have better longer lasting results. Manufactures already put way more glue than is needed (Pomoca being the lone exception, though fresh skins from anyone are too sticky for my liking anyway including Pomoca). Further wall to wall glue on the length of the skin is unnecessary as well. On my personal skins I go wall to wall on about a 6 inch long section at the tip and then I run about 1.5 - 2 inch wide strips at the edge only down to about a 4 inch long section at the tail that is wall to wall again. Never had attachment or snow creep. Problems. And Ive used all the glues, BD, contour, coltex, Pomoca, ski trab. For my customers I go wall to wall the whole length but it is way less glue than the manufacturer uses, 1 tube of BD contains enough glue to adequate cover 4 skins assuming ~100-108 width and about 180 - 185cm skinsQuote:
Originally Posted by kamtron
Ok so you use a tube to do 2 pair or 4 skins per tube, I use a tube for a pair of skins, do you think a thinner app of skin glue holds up better to getting sticky/ funky ?
I think some of these guys have been reading an old post where some dirt bag only had an iron so thats how he removed the old glue or got the pin needles off
Yes thinner layer is better IME.