Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

It's not current, but it's my latest--

OOPS! God Damnit--
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Rip it apart. Go to the junk yard for parts. The frame is straight. The drivetrain is fucking new for crying out loud.
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Add some bondo. Sand it. Just make it straight for fucks sake.
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Drop it off at a paint shop. "Just make it orange again."
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Reupholster things that can be done for the cheap. Buys some sheep skin because Fuck those seats.
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Install new carpet. Add some speakers. You're going to sleep and fuck back here, right?
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And BAM-- Move to Montana. Ski a bit.
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God fucking damnit. Are you kidding me?
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Of course I didn't install a roll cage. What, do you think I didn't learn my lesson the first time?
Of course I didn't buy collision insurance-- if I wreck it, I'll just fix it myself. I'm sure as shit not going to total it again. Been down that road.

Fuck me. Fuck this truck. Luck doesn't come in threes. If I crash this thing again, it'll fucking kill me. That's its goal.

Nice truck! How you've survived two rollovers without a bar in one of these, I'm not sure.

Holy shit that was a great TR. Glad you're alive!

Badass truck. Stop crashing it hehe.

Nap time is a good time to watch American ninja warriors and work on interior. One sport seat just about done. Cleaned up the mounting brackets and painted black. Drying out in the front yard.
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Originally Posted by basinbeater

So did you make it to work? Or you still walkin home cause it died on you in the middle a nowhere?

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Man, is it nice to just roll around with no tick tick tick.
Having everything apart, I could see areas of old rust and pitting on all those pieces, I'm sure it's from extended sitting some time in the past. Mechanics at work say the lifters will take up like .020...so I'm sure between all those wear surfaces: the cam, the lifters, the pushrods and various parts of the rockers there must have been more than that 020 of wear. Sounds tight enough now.



Now I can listen to the radio again. Yesss!
4 stiff ass leaf springs....this thing rides like my old hardtail Harley.

Mrs. C.'s Xterra has been showing a little vibration noticeable at higher speeds -- 60-80 mph or so. Had the tires rebalanced, no change. That's not typically a speed where I've noticed tire imbalance; seems like that's more of a 40-60 mph range.

From the internet (Xterra forums and the like), driveshaft U-joints have been an issue on the Xterra and Frontier, with some dying fairly early on -- like 40K miles. Mrs. C.'s Xterra has 125K miles, so seems like a reasonable guess. Ordered the 3 U-joints for the driveshafts from Rock Auto. Xterra uses two U-joints on the front driveshaft (traditional design), and only one on the rear driveshaft (at the slip yoke on the transfer case end), with the differential end using a weird integrated thing that apparently isn't serviceable.

Pulled the front driveshaft yesterday, and it's on the workbench. One of the U-joints feels a little stiff, but neither is that bad. Picking up a U-joint press tool from Autozone loaner tools today, and will get the U-joints swapped out this week. I've replaced them before by pounding them out with sockets and a hammer, but that's a PITA, so am going to try the proper tool this time.

There's not much space on work with on the Xterra driveshaft bolts. Can't fit a ratcheting wrench or a socket + ratchet; you have to use a open end or box wrench. Nissan cranked those things on there tight. Pro tip for maximum leverage: slip the end of a trailer ball wrench over the box end wrench, add 18" of breaker bar leverage. Bolts loosened right up, no heat or penetrating oil needed.

One of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpowe.../dp/B000CQOIV4

as a diagnostic aid, with the rear driveshaft out you could now take it for a run in front-wheel-drive and see if you still have the shakes.

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Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy

as a diagnostic aid, with the rear driveshaft out you could now take it for a run in front-wheel-drive and see if you still have the shakes.

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Front driveshaft is out currently. Did take it for a drive, and the shakes seem to be gone, so hopefully the issue is one of the front driveshaft U-joints.

ugh...solid hubs and turning the front on the highway for no reason...lame.

Can you get manual hubs for that truck? I put warns on a T100 to save all that highway wear and tear and maybe smooth things out a bit. It was a good upgrade imo.

Don't know if manual hubs are available for conversion, but this style (no lockout hubs, everything spins all the time) is universal today, on "real" 4WDs (i.e. transfer case + low range, not AWD).

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Don't know if manual hubs are available for conversion, but this style (no lockout hubs, everything spins all the time) is universal today, on "real" 4WDs (i.e. transfer case + low range, not AWD).

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https://m.summitracing.com/parts/wrn...w/model/xterra

Most second and fourth (current) Ram HD trucks and Ford Super Duty trucks use a front axle disconnect or auto hub system to keep the front end from turning all the time.

^^ yeah, this. Pretty sure that Nissan isn't turning the entire front drive system in 2wd simply because the hubs themselves don't disengage. Disconnecting the axle shaft from the diff (via solenoid hooked to 4x4 switch) would allow the diff, the prop shaft and the pinions to not turn. Sure, the U's at the hubs turn, whereas they do not with hubs that disengage, but you're not pushing the entire 4x4 system around in N. EDIT: Sorry, Chup, I'm just wrong on this as it relates to that Nissan. Looks like it is in fact spinning the whole front driveline in 2wd. Probably not odd these days, I'm getting old.

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Originally Posted by reckless toboggan

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/wrn...w/model/xterra

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Only for the first generation, which is up to 2004, and still used the old automatic locking hub system. Mrs C has a 2010.

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Don't know if manual hubs are available for conversion, but this style (no lockout hubs, everything spins all the time) is universal today, on "real" 4WDs (i.e. transfer case + low range, not AWD).

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Interesting that this is so common these days. I haven't shopped a car in 9 years and haven't worked on one any newer in as much time. Even if you could, my advice, for other reasons is: DO NOT PUT MANUAL LOCKING HUBS ON THE WIFE'S 4X4.

So if it's your front driveline that's vibrating, that's because it's turning and wearing out. If you don't want it to turn and wear out, you could likely add a manual hub.

If your rig isn't turning the front driveline at highway speed, front u-joints aren't likely the source of your bad vibes.

I guess we're all getting old. My old goes like this: I hate the idea of wearing out a second drivetrain (the front) that I'm not using. I think all these auto hubs and center axle d/c systems are needlessly complex and mainly built so bankers don't have to get their loafers slushy.
Then again, if all you have to do is a set of u joints in 100K+ miles, who cares.

If that was my wifey-rig, I might just pull the front shaft for the whole summer and put it back on in the fall with the snow tires and the storm windows and raking leaves and all that fall shit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Don't know if manual hubs are available for conversion, but this style (no lockout hubs, everything spins all the time) is universal today, on "real" 4WDs (i.e. transfer case + low range, not AWD).

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It's pretty amazing how things have come full circle from those old full time np203 4x4 pickups to selectable hubs and all the way back to spinning everything again.

I know you can buy manual hub conversion kits for full size pickups giving you 2wd low. It fully disengages the front drive train when not in use. But it's $2k. And if you're getting 150k before needing maintenance you have to decide if it's worth the hassle and cost of taking apart your entire drive train.

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Ripped the step-sides and front wind fairing thing off my new F150 the other day. Pretty simple wrenching but took some elbow grease and lots of dirt in the face. Truck looks so much better without that shit.

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Originally Posted by shredgnar

Ripped the step-sides and front wind fairing thing off my new F150 the other day. Pretty simple wrenching but took some elbow grease and lots of dirt in the face. Truck looks so much better without that shit.

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been thinking about pull the step sides on my Tundra....kids need em a bit still though.

Replace them with some beefy rock sliders that have a step platform built in.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy

If your rig isn't turning the front driveline at highway speed, front u-joints aren't likely the source of your bad vibes.

<snip>

Then again, if all you have to do is a set of u joints in 100K+ miles, who cares.

If that was my wifey-rig, I might just pull the front shaft for the whole summer and put it back on in the fall with the snow tires and the storm windows and raking leaves and all that fall shit.

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On this 2010 Xterra, like all 2nd gen Xterras, the front driveshaft spins all the time, whether in 2WD or 4WD. Removing it seemed to eliminate the 60-80mph vibrations. I haven't pulled the old U-joints out yet; Autozone didn't have the loaner tool in stock last night.

A set of U-joints every 125K miles is the kind of cost and repair I find acceptable, vs. a $$$$ lockout hub conversion (hubs, wheel bearings that will require regreasing rather than OEM sealed unit bearings, new stub ends, etc., etc....)

The wifey rig gets used offroad occasionally, so the 4WD needs to work during summer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by basinbeater

Replace them with some beefy rock sliders that have a step platform built in.

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Maybe after I put a lift on it. I'm still tall enough to get a cheek on the seat without a step and it's fun to watch everyone else struggle.

Yeah, I see now that later xtrerra isn't going to take a simple hub unbolt-and-bolt-the-warns-in deal like my toyota did.

Im huDge-> Clogged fuel line on the mower. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6d24729ee9.jpg

look at those huge meats. What size lift?

adventure under the truck, so I get a flat out on the highway I pull over and GF sez there is a bear on the other side of the road, honk the horn he doesnt seem to care and wasn't moving so I just changed the tire with GF keeping an eye on the bear.

Fortunately I had felt the truck sway/seen the TPM light go on so I managed to get stopped fast enough to not destroy the tire so I got it fixed for 25$

Those spare tires that are carried up under the bed never get checked, so mine had never been used in 7 years, it only had 25 lbs in it ... check your spare folks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy

look at those huge meats. What size lift?

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2 4x4's

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

check your spare folks

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Sage advice.

Also, if the spare (or any tire) is more than 7 years old, it should be replaced. You can figure out the age by looking at the last 4 digits of the DOT code (listed in week of the year followed by the year, ie 5110 would be the 51st week of 2010) The date portion is only on one side of the tire, so annoying it's not on both sides)

Also, if any dryrot is seen on either sidewall or in the tread, it is considered a safety issue and should be replaced. Most tire separations are from dryrot, and end up as those peeled off chunks of tread littering the side of the road.

^^^ This reminds me. I really need to get around to replacing the ancient spare on my truck. I've never used it, and I think it's original... It's a 2000 truck.

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

^^^ This reminds me. I really need to get around to replacing the ancient spare on my truck. I've never used it, and I think it's original... It's a 2000 truck.

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I'm bet you could get away with just checking the spare.

Putting 80 psi in a 17 year old tire is kind of scary.

Oh yeah... The end is getting closer, few more little things, and this thing will be ready to go. Taking it to the pool tonight.. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1110a17b09.jpg
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New tires weekend before last. Used the opportunity to clean the insides of the wheels and wheel wells. Brake, power steering, and transmission fluid (with filter) flushes this past weekend.

Have the coolant and thermostat for a coolant flush but may go ahead and get the timing belt changed which requires draining anyway. Car only has 27k miles but is 18 years old at this point so the peace of mind a new belt provides is starting to outweigh the thought of a plastic-clip-breaking-no-fucks-given-greasy-fingerprints garage putting their hands on it.

Pics please.

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E34 540i/6spd gonna get some love today if the springs arrive. New koni sports and h&r springs, with new mounts, spring pads, bump stops. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...76d267cdc1.jpg

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Back at it.
3 of 4 on. Got late. Gonna do the last one tomorrow.
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Done. Rides nice sporty, and controlled, and smooth. Koni and h&r is a great combo. I have konis on the Porsche as well, and they are great. Good stance too...
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That's some fancy hardware.

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I posted in the Landcruiser thread about picking up a new to me mint 2003 Tacoma Long bed, regular cab, 4x4, 4cylinder. After spending the past 25 years avoiding working on vehicles I have to admit its been fun tinkering with general maintenance stuff. It sat for about 6 years so first was a new battery. Then this past weekend I drained the old oil and replaced with some nice fresh dino oil and Napa gold filter.
Any thoughts on switching to a high mileage blend or full synthetic?
It has 166k on the motor and nothing leaks and nothing burns apparently. It runs like a top. The oil filter was a pain in the ass to remove.
Last night I decided to change spark plugs with some factory Denso from the dealer. They are expensive at $10 a pop, however the prior owner had some POS Autolite ones that were way past their due date.
I had to follow a tutorial about removing a resonance box for the air box, but once that was out of the way it was smooth sailing. I did put antiseize on the threads and dielectric on the coil packs for good measure, buttoned it back up and couldn't believe how quiet and smooth it was at idle. I suspect based on the condition of the plugs that they change 1&4 but left 2&3 due to them being under the air intake tube. Regardless, its done now and running so quietly its hard to believe its a 15 year old motor. Good job Toyota.
My buddy owns an independent shop so next is some fresh fluids in the T-Case, Differentials and Gear box. I don't want to tackle those without a lift and experience.
I scored some Yokohama Geolander M&T+ for $120 each from Tire Rack on clearance and I have new matte grey wheels coming 16x8 with -10mm backspace to give the wheel wells and UCA's some more space for the Old Man Emu lift i ordered. New coilovers and new rear shocks and springs, should add some more clearance and life to the Taco.
Once external stuff starts going on I'll snaps some pics.
I have to admit compared to my 2017 Diesel Super Duty, this truck is very fun and more like our Polaris Ranger in a lot of ways. Looking around the almost spartan engine bay is refreshing.
I have some decisions to make like ripping out the badly beat up rhino lining and possible paint job to OD Green or Desert Tan. Also adding a snorkle and some armor. But that will be phase 2.
I keep tinkering with "forever cars" and I thought my 2015 JK 4 door would be the one, but that didn't work out due to the stellar quality of Fiat and shitty dealer network which destroyed it.
I am thinking of keeping this mighty Taco for the long haul. I have less then 5k in it so far and Alias shared the carfax with me and its always been a southern truck. Not a stitch of rust anywhere.
I should add- I did spend lots of time cleaning the interior since it sat for 6 years under a carport with cigarette ashes in the ash tray. Seemed like every hot day it would reek again. I didn't check the ashtray until this past weekend and realized thats why I couldn't get the smell out. Now after soaking it in white vinegar and leaving vinegar inside the cab for a few days along with an ionizing bomb for the vents, It smells 100% better.