http://shop.coronatoolsusa.com/ss-60...back.html.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by permnation
Sure a rock bar works better for heavy prying, but a heavy duty shovel works a lot of the time. These handle heavy abuse.
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http://shop.coronatoolsusa.com/ss-60...back.html.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by permnation
Sure a rock bar works better for heavy prying, but a heavy duty shovel works a lot of the time. These handle heavy abuse.
I've gone through a couple rechargeable-battery weed whackers but ultimately decided they just lacked the power I like. They are good if you have a small urban lawn, but they really won't tackle anything serious. I switched to an electric weed whacker (using a 100 foot extension cord) for around the house, and a gas powered Stihl for the real heavy shit on the perimeter (we have 10 acres). Kind of sucks to have two weed whackers but the gas one is way overkill for trimming around the house.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaSucks
Quote:
Originally Posted by permnation
Fiskars makes a pretty decent all-metal spade shovel like that for a good deal cheaper. We beat the living shit out of the one we got this season and it held up great. Will be picking up some square head versions for next season for sure. Every wood handled one we bought no matter how nice is in pieces now fwiw.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoWork
Damn $24 at Target that's a fkn steak for these. A go getter homeowner type will likely never break one.
http://www.target.com/p/fiskars-174-...w&gclsrc=aw.ds
I have ignored the Fiskars thinking it had a similar handle to their axes. I didn't realize it's all steel! Thanks for the heads-up.Quote:
Originally Posted by DoWork
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leavenworth Skier
I disagree. I grew up with all John Deere on our farm. The older and bigger equipment is quality (like a 1960's era 4020), new CUT's are barely Deere (under 50 HP ish are pure Yanmar), which isn't bad in and off itself, but you're paying for the green paint more than anything else. Also stay away from the 3XXX E series, aluminum rear ends that are not very durable.Quote:
Originally Posted by steepconcrete
And, to seal the deal, John Deere is litigating all over the place and claiming you don't really own your equipment because of their bullshit EULA software license. They're fighting "right to repair" legislation left and right. So, fuck Deere.
I just bought a 2000 Kubota 4310 a couple weeks ago, after MONTHS of research and shopping around all over the country. I have no brand loyalty, I wanted the best deal on the most reliable tractor I could find - I considered every manufacturer that is sold in the states. A few things that I think I discovered:Quote:
Originally Posted by Leavenworth Skier
1. Buy bigger than you think you need.
2. If you aren't going to do your own maintenance you should probably get a brand that has a dealer nearby.
3. Kubota is some of the best bang for the buck and has better reliability than others IMHO.
4. If you truly compare apples to apples finding a good used deal is WAY cheaper than buying new. Dealer was quoting me 23k for a 37 HP new with rebates and such, a 47 HP was 28k (both standard models, no bells and whistles). I got a 43 HP deluxe model (yeah it's used and old, but tractors last forever if you take care of them) with 1700 hours (which isn't much) for 10k, I paid another 1100 to have it shipped from Iowa. Already have about 8 hours on it and it's great. And I saved a fuck load of money.
5. Texas seems to have the best pricing on used tractors (for reference, a super clean tractor that I was considering was going for 13k in Texas, here in Utah the exact same model with almost identical hours that came with an implement worth about $500 is listed for 26K). You'll also get something with next to no rust if you go Texas. I went for the one in Iowa because it was such a good deal.
6. Get on Tractorbynet and learn stuff, look at equipment on tractorhouse.com too.
Tier IV final currently. But yeah, what he said. Older tractors don't have the DPF and EGR crap going on. Between Tier III and Tier IV tractor prices jumped across the board 4-5K (new) just because of the new emissions stuff. Now, I'm a pretty big tree hugger, but when it comes down to it, my 17 year old tractor uses less fuel than the new stuff and is far simpler and cheaper to run. With mixed use I'm using on average 0.6 gallons per hour (no typo, it's crazy efficient). Am I polluting more. Yes, most likely. In the grand scheme of things I pick my battles though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Zander
And now, I can do all kinds of cool shit with this snowblower I picked up:
Attachment 206143
Also awesome: I can borrow neighbors' 3ph implements. Sunk two wood posts with the rear auger, piece of cake.
Attachment 206144
Fuck that, I came to this thread to see if anyone has used an electrical trimmer and BOOM iceman delivers.Quote:
Originally Posted by RootSkier
I may break my gas powered in half so it fits in the garbage can. Yeah, that's it. It needs to fit in the garbage can, I need to destroy it because of that.....yes yes yes.
Don't know what kind of gas trimmers you guys are using, but my 26cc 45 stihl 'wacker just had its first plug change. A new spool head last year, and it gets fed premium fuel. 3 or 4 pulls of the cord and it's a beast for the home lot, easily takes on the encroaching woods at the cabin. Light enough not to need a harness but power enough to make short work of thimbleberry and maple suckers up to .5cm. Bought it new in '08.
I got a woodsman pal as a bday gift. Pretty stoked. Has made quicker work of new blackberry patch and incense cedar saplings.
I should have remembered this earlier in the thread.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGdbbEZVHqw
I got a gas trimmer that came with the house , run fresh premium, put fuel stabilizer in all the motors every fall and everything runs fine, duno what you dentists are doing but maybe you should just hire garden ersQuote:
Originally Posted by muted
Shovel-fu!Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman
My wife got me a Husky riding lawn mower and boy does that little bastard get it done. We have a fairly sizeable lawn but also a strip of irrigated wild grass that serves as a fire buffer to the Sea of sage around us. Said strip rolls over a rib from the mountain above and creates some seriously gnar steepness. If lawn mowing was a sport, this is the x games and that orange midget handles it in spades. Pretty impressive.
Some day I'll buy a Kubota. We need a loader for snow removal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater
Whoawhoawhoawhoa... a tractor got bought and you didn't make the call?
What the fuck, man? I'm glad you're happy with it but that's fucked up. I hope she's somewhere standing with her nose in a corner right now, sheeeeesh!
Oh no..Quote:
Originally Posted by DoWork
Everybody just relax. Let's not forget there's about a ~ $17K difference between a Kubota with loader and my little lawn carrot.Quote:
Originally Posted by DoWork
By "someday," I mean when my strategy of complaining about snow pile berms results in my wife "suggesting" we need something to deal with it. She's already got the plow truck stuck twice when I was out of town, so I figure one or two more episodes and she'll tell me to deal with it. And I will.
I think you should get a bulldozer.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater
Glad you are happy with yours, but your story is only relevant to you, you know that?Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
agreed, I submit to you.......Quote:
Originally Posted by Leavenworth Skier
Attachment 210862
comes with the optional "wife protection package", dealer installed
You can move the whole road if needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkgt
yes of course but the question is what did you fuck up that you can't get a string trimmer to run ... its not rocket biologyQuote:
Originally Posted by muted
(Erasing my pissy response)Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Anyways, enough bickering about my lack of manliness, let's keep this focused on bulldozers.
I used to have a neighbor who was a HD mechanic, he was given the task at a trucking yard of maintaining a big rack of small engines and every single one of them was fucked. He figured out that what happened was people would grab a pump or a generator or whatever, if it didn't start just put it back on the rack and find one that would start except pretty soon nothing would start
he got em all running and instituted a policy that ALL fuel used in his motors shall have fuel conditioner added to the fuel because maybe an engine gets used or maybe it sits there for a year before some one trys to start it SO all his small engine problems went away by using fuel conditioner
I always got time to properly fuel my motors but I ain't got time to work on them
buldozer for yard work ... compensating for something eh?
Either that or it is just really fun to rip giant holes in the ground.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Sprinkler Question: I have all those Rainbird 5000 popups in a new house I moved into and they all shoot a stream out 10-12ft and then spray a one foot wide path from there - creating a bunch of brown donuts in my yard.
Is it the nozzle? When I adjust the screw, it just lowers the radius, which means I will start getting larger brown donuts.
Can't find any advice on the web, but rainbird advertises a "curtain" of spray from the head to the end of the stream...why am I not getting this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirbumpsalot
HAARP!
Standing opposite of the spray. Front screw adjust the radius/ distance of the spray pattern. back screw adjust the swing. I think the stop is on the left so twist it to the stop then adjust the screw to move the stop point.
You can also replace the little "plate" with the groove in it that the water sprays through to get different patterns/distances/water volumes. See a local irrigation store; I got a few dozen sets free from a place near me.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...556d2ec49a.png
Btw, 5000's should throw more than 10-12'. Their website says 25-50'. Are you on city water or a well?
Wrong thread
City water....perhaps this is my problem...low pressure? I will open a unit and see if the nozzle/filter is clogged first and then check the water coming in to the property. Saw a neighbors sprinklers this morning and they are spraying uniformly over a similar distance 10-15 feet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyoverland Captive
Thanks
I'm on city water too; it turns out the valve on the water meter is only 3/4", so it severely restricts my water flow in periods of high demand (i.e. watering the lawn). Weak pressure means the sprinkler heads don't spray evenly.
Get a cheap pressure gauge (I got an Orbit gauge at Lowes for $10). Put it on a hose bib, and note the pressure. Now turn on your sprinklers; does the pressure drop? In my case, it goes from 30 to zero instantly. I need to add a booster pump to get everything to work properly.
If you do have low pressure, and can't correct it, you'll need low-pressure nozzles.
Thanks for the tips. I have a couple nozzle trees coming from HD to test. If that works I will buy more. Will gauge the system too and see psi reading. Maybe I will spring for a new popup and see if that helps. Lord only knows how old the ones installed are. Yard has many different types and baured garden hoses and valves everywhere. Previous owners hacked it all together.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyoverland Captive
Are the sprinklers on their own zone, or does other shit come on at the same time? The guy who designed my system had bubblers, drippers, and pop-ups (14!) all on one zone. Took me a long time to get it down to 7 pop-ups on their own zone. Major improvement.
There are 9 zones and I have yet to sit down and plot out whats on what yet, but it appears that each zone with the rainbird 5000's can have 4-6 on at a time and the problem doesn't differ on the zones where that is the only thing on and if there are other items (sprayers, drippers, etc)
Tarps. I'm getting tired of dragging poly tarps (usually with slash) and leaving strands of ripstop plastic on the property. Also, the plastic seems to breakdown pretty quick in the sun covering things usually covered for wet weather. Are canvas tarps a solution? What kind?
This has been my favorite (nonchainsaw) tool lately. Been using it currently for casual scotch broom hacking along my neighborhood road. Catching them right before they bloom.
Attachment 231828
Sent from my SPH-L710 using TGR Forums mobile app
Bump
We want to hardscape immediately adjacent to our structures for wildfire safety. Anybody care to share techniques?
We get a lot of wind events that will deposit leaves and needles against the structures. I’d like to be able to easily rake away/collect this detritus without raking away or spreading the hardscape material. My experience is that gravel may not work well for this application. My research so far is also steering me away from landscape fabric (and has reminded me about my own frustrations dealing with old fabric).
Thought and prayers?
Cheers
Gravel and a blower?