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I haven't personally had any issues, but I've heard lots of stories about people's flights and connections getting changed and their bags taking a completely different path to their destination. I haven't heard of anyone doing the empty bag trick up here, but that's funny. Biggest complaint most people have about the YK airport is that the Javaroma is never openQuote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Last year due to delays we missed our direct flight from CDG->SLC and rebooked through Logan. More delays meant we had 40 mins for our next connection with baggage claims and customs. Literally just had to throw our bags and bikes at the Delta people because our plane was already boarding across the airport. When we got home we got one bag and no bikes. Bikes were actually on our plane but never made it out baggage claim. My bag was located two weeks later in Detroit WTF. At least I got it back.
Any hacks for shortening prebled Shimano brakes with minimal work? I have the cheap cutter tool and barb pusher from Amazon that VTSkibum linked above (also have 11 blade scalpels from work). Can I leave the lever on the bar and /or do i need to do anything more special than detach the hose with an 8mm spanner, keep it elevated above the caliper , cut it , put new olive on and push new barb in, reattach? Does it need a lever bleed after ?
I’ve done that same procedure many times with just a lever bleed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffman
When I shorten prebled Shimano brake hoses, I like to extend the pads out a little bit farther (pull lever with wheel/disc out of the way), trim the hose and reinstall it, then push the pistons back into their bores. Reinstall wheel, pump brakes at lever, see if firm.
Maybe half the time I don't need to do a lever bleed. The other half... quick lever bleed.
^ this is the way. I’ll also remind y’all that if we had a dedicated Brakes thread, this advice wouldn’t need to be reposted (it’s been posted a lot). But let’s carry on with an ask the experts thread that throws everything into a blender.
This is how I do new brakes, somewhere in the 4 digits at point. Remove the lever from the bar and disconnect the hose with the hose connection facing up and carefully prop them up that way. Cut your hoses to length without allowing them to fling oil out after the cut. Put a drop or two of brake fluid in the end of the lever and reconnect. Wipe off the overflow and you are set, this works with all brands assuming it had a good factory bleed.
What are people wearing for winter pants? I went down today, pretty mild, but my Fox rangers (? Semi waterproof softshell deal) just completely exploded. Five different holes, crotch now goes to my knees, they look like they went through the garbage disposal. Looking for recs on something tougher and reasonably waterproof with room to run kneepads underneath and at least decent pockets.
They're expensive, but I love my NF DP4 pants for cold and wet weather riding. They have DWR coating and are thick enuff for decent warmth, and they are burly as fuck. Fit, pockets and build quality are top notch
Specialized trail pants are really good and work down to 30 degrees or so. Anything colder than that and I'm wearing my NF Destroyers.
I really like my Club Ride Fat Jacks. They are lighter weight which makes them perfect for shoulder season use. I also like that they, like most CR stuff, are perfect apres ride-wear.
CR has also come out with a few new models.
I can't find this anywhere... but which Park Tool spoke wrench do I need for the thicker aluminum I-9 spokes?
The NF "lightweight trail pants" are also pretty nice, and worth a look if you ever think you'll want pants in the summer. I pedaled three Tiger laps in them this summer, and shuttled in them yesterday when it was 40F out. Haven't tried the DP4s yet though.
Should be the black one, SW-0.Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
3.23mm, or "0" or "15 gauge" nipple size, or Park Tool "Black"Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
Thanks guys!
What’s the best value on brakes going right now? I’ve been on Shimanos forever but I think my previous gen XT four pistons are giving up the ghost. Prefer mineral oil generally because I’m clumsy and do my own bleeding but open to whatever. My default is just to pick up a set of the deore 4 pistons and call it good.
I just got a set of TRP Slate T4s that seem pretty decent. Feel is pretty similar to Deore/SLX, for a little cheaper ($120/side TRP vs $160/side SLX). They're on a rigid bike with XC tires though, so maybe not a great basis for comparison.Quote:
Originally Posted by Abies
Thanks for all the suggestions.Quote:
Originally Posted by mildbill.
I should have mentioned i'm in nor cal and was dealing with very fine, dusty conditions coincidental with my drivetrain binding issues.
We got about 1" of rain, 2 days of mud and a week of dust-free [insert bro-speak term for quality surface conditions].
After 2x thorough cleaning following the muddy days and now no longer riding with a fine coat of dust on the bike at all times, things seem to be running quite smoothly. Off to the queso thread for me I guess.
Or was it all psychosomatic and i was sick of the dust and stoked now?
Gotta say I've been in the mineral oil boat 'cause I'm clumsy camp too, but the Sram Bleeding Edge system is pretty slick and keeps the mess down.Quote:
Originally Posted by Abies
If you're looking for true budget, can't go wrong with non-series Shimano brakes like the MT520. Put some Galfer pads in them and they can hang with the best. If you don't need 4-piston, the Formula Curas are a good option. I've been running them on my hardtail, and they're just a simple, well made brake that works well. On the higher end, I still think Hayes Dominion A4s reign supreme, unless you really like the feel of Shimano/Sram. Dominions are DOT tho, and I do find that the pistons require more cleaning than other brakes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Abies
I think budget to me means 200 dollars for both ends would be sweet, not including rotors, but I’d go up to 300 if there’s a good case for it. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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Pretty sure anything below that level will be a big drop from your XTs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Abies
Maybe used XT or SLX?
To be fair when I wrote that I hadn’t really done much research lol, I just figured I could find something good on mega sale right now. 200+ an end feels steep to me thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
I think it’s my calipers that are cooked (leaky pistons) so does anyone know if it’s fine to mate my XT M8000 series levers to current gen Shimano calipers?
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Magura Trail brakes are pretty cheap and quite good. They are the ones with 2 piston rear and 4 piston front.