Are 11spd Shimano rear derailleurs compatible with a 50T cassette?
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Are 11spd Shimano rear derailleurs compatible with a 50T cassette?
Doe sit down the noise riding right off the bat, or take a little bit to settle in and then appear. Pulleys could spin smoothly static on the bench, but if they are dry they can cause grief under repeated load. Pop seals and add grease...
Could be clutch related? When you’re at 6/12 pedal stroke the suspension will rebound a little then squat back down as you get into the powerful part of the pedal stroke and pull the chain and axle forward. If the clutch is binding it might create some resistance through that transition.
Also, the 50t is gonna fatigue that derailleur a little sooner than later. I’d advise a Shimano 11-46 cassette. It’s faster to walk than spin a 28/50.
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Yes
Does it bind at the top of the stroke for both the left and right crank?
Yes
Does the thunkthunking happen both while pedaling forward and back pedaling?
Yes
Is the chain meshing smoothly onto both the cassette and chainring?
Yes, but NOT to the pulleys - dry chain post-ride and they are making a ton of racket
Is it smooth under load in the stand (hold the brake a bit and pedal)?
Tough to say - feels like some pulsation
Do you have another bike that you can swap parts from to try a process of elimination?
No
Are 11spd Shimano rear derailleurs compatible with a 50T cassette?
Count me as one of the ones pushing it - but I've run this exact same setup for about 3 seasons problem free - the ONLY difference recently has been going from SLX to XT rear mech due to damage during a trip.
Doe sit down the noise riding right off the bat, or take a little bit to settle in and then appear. Pulleys could spin smoothly static on the bench, but if they are dry they can cause grief under repeated load. Pop seals and add grease...
Noise takes time to settle in - binding seems to be right off the bat. Will add grease.
Could be clutch related? When you’re at 6/12 pedal stroke the suspension will rebound a little then squat back down as you get into the powerful part of the pedal stroke and pull the chain and axle forward. If the clutch is binding it might create some resistance through that transition.
Will test by climbing with shock open - theoretically more bob would make this worse, right?
It’s faster to walk than spin a 28/50.
Fair point, but sometimes when I can't bear the thought of the steep road climb out of my neighborhood to the trails, that 28/50 is the only thing getting me out riding.
Also, try with the clutch turned off.
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I need to do some clutch maintenance on my rear derailleur and having a hard time finding the recommended Shimano's internal hub grease. Are there any trustworthy alternatives?
So yesterday I went to head out, figured i'd flip the clutch off for the climb out of the neighborhood - clutch switch is gone. Plot thickens. I did not have time to investigate if it has sheared off / fallen out / etc...
That said, whether the shock (Super Deluxe ultimate) was locked out or not, the bidning seemed present. Definitely seemed worse later in the ride.
Try searching for ‘Shimano Shadow RD+’ grease. (Part # Y04121000)
That’s the grease they now recommend for the clutch, so may be why you can’t find the internal hub grease.
And it’s a Calcium Sulfonate grease (not lithium), with synthetic and mineral oils, and unspecified additives:
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/complian...08-ENG-GHS.pdf
the grease we used was in all kinds of spragg & spring clutches was #23 which must be like the viscosity of an oil or sft ?
from what i can google its a clay based grease apparently they can handle the heat
I don't know if it was all that special or more likely we used it cuz ever one already carried it
https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-e...n-to-use-them/
probaby ^^ more than you want too know about grease
Sweet bag is packed, thanks for the advice all. Now new questions about bike travel: Is it normal to have to deflate tires to get them in the sleeves? 29" 2.5 Assegai and 2.3 DHR2. That was a workout until I deflated and got them in.
Also, I have this sag in the middle of the bag and it seems like it leaves the handlebars a little exposed. Anyone every rig up a foam block to keep that part stiff?
Attachment 474050
I don't have that bag, but deflate tires to fit. Keep a little air so sealant doesn't leak out. I also air fork/shock down. Don't want any TSA hassle.
I wouldn't worry about the sag in the bag, TSA and throwers are going to do way worse. I wrap my handlebars in bubble wrap and use pipe insolation on carbon frame:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BnZxPg8B...RlODBiNWFlZA==
Make sure under 50 lbs if you want it to count as a normal checked bag.
I have the same bag and have flown it to Yurp 4x now. I've never managed to get my wheels in there without having to almost completely deflate the tires. And even then it's a bit of a tight squeeze, I feel like I flex the shit out of the rim as I wrestle it in place. Same tire size, 2.3 Specialized = 2.5 Maxis. You asked about rotors upthread, I've been removing mine cause it's easy (centerlock) and I hate having to true the fuckers when I'm all jetlagged and just want to go spin around a bit. I've never bothered with airing out the suspension, given how they treat luggage at the airport I'd be worried some baggage handler will bottom out my suspension hard enough to fuck something up (see below for more on that).
Re: sag behind the fork stirrer (I assume that's where the dip is), same thing happens with mine. I have a bunch of semi-rigid foam pieces I put over all the spots that could possibly take a hit, they help protect the bike and fill the bag a bit more. I also use pipe insulation as 406 suggested, it's cheap and light and can save a carbon tube from a sharp impact.
The 50 lbs limit is easy to hit with an enduro pig. I usually pull pedals and cassette, easy weight savings. Extra weight might not be an issue at check-in but the baggage handlers HATE oversized stuff and if it's also overweight they'll treat it like absolute shit.
The first time I flew with the bike I was looking out of the terminal window as we were boarding and watched a dude throw the bag from the top of a luggage cart onto the tarmac then drag it sideways to the plane. Fucking degen, the bag has wheels and is easier to handle than most suitcases. I ended up with a nice abrasion on the side of the bag that went almost all the way through but no issues with the bike. I'd definitely recommend taking up as much empty space as possible with foam, people are very creative when it comes to beating on oversize luggage.
I think a bent rotor is a bit of a one off shipping injury
pre covid we flew to Moab and sent all the bikes down in the 15 passenger covered in shipping blankets, the only way to fly
48.5 in an Evoc bag? Damn, when I fly with my enduro bike, it’s usually around 60# with just a few basics thrown in there.
The weight of the bag is a real consideration. I use a CRC one, which is def not as nice as the pimp EVOC, but it's lighter. I can get my not light Ripley and my shoes in there and be at 49.5#.
When we went to NZ we had our gravel bikes all bikepacking bags, and camping gear just under 50# each. Cardboard boxes FTW if weight is a big issue.
At check-in, lifting the scale slightly with yer toes helps a bag become a better weight.