The chainsaw thread...

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Originally Posted by LHutz Esq

Sounds like it could be a needle/seat issue? If the seat and or needle gets worn it will allow too much fuel through.


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Thanks! I’m not sure what the “seat” is. I have the illustrated parts list for the saw. I realize that there are multiple names for things.

I took out the “inlet needle” and shot it with carb cleaner. I took out a lot bits and pieces and shot lots of holes and jets with carb cleaner. If that doesn’t do the trick, maybe replace that needle or just buy and install a new carb kit (I’ve done that before for this saw a few years back).

I forgot to mention, I haven’t been using the decompression button very often. I’ve heard those can help flood the engines (not sure how).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LHutz Esq

Sounds like it could be a needle/seat issue? If the seat and or needle gets worn it will allow too much fuel through.


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Attachment 292379

It’s not th greatest pic - but that little groove on the needle is no bueno. This came from a vintage skidoo tundra but same idea just smaller in a saw I believe.




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You can get a whole new carb for <$30. Just sayin’.
https://www.amazon.com/Hicello-Carbu...df_B07FTMXNXD/

Well that’s pretty cheap! Definitely worth a consideration!

I’ll take that needle out again and take a closer look with a magnifying glass. Looking online, I see what a “seat” is now.

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Originally Posted by bodywhomper

Thanks! I’m not sure what the “seat” is. I have the illustrated parts list for the saw. I realize that there are multiple names for things.

I took out the “inlet needle” and shot it with carb cleaner. I took out a lot bits and pieces and shot lots of holes and jets with carb cleaner. If that doesn’t do the trick, maybe replace that needle or just buy and install a new carb kit (I’ve done that before for this saw a few years back).

I forgot to mention, I haven’t been using the decompression button very often. I’ve heard those can help flood the engines (not sure how).

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I find that the trick to working on carburetors is to get rid of the extra parts. After you take it apart and put it back together you’ll find there are a few parts that you didn’t need and you aren’t sure where they went in the first place....

Ha! While I was outside my front door with the carb in pieces, carefully putting that spring loaded needle back in place, and my hands covered in carb cleaner, there was a massive spill in our hot oven (part of dinner). Calls for help, smoke alarms, windows opening (it’s still like 90* outside), and fans blasting as my wife deals solo with the mini emergency and the 9 yr old twins do their best to help and I’m trying hard not to loose that tiny spring... dinner was still really good!

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Originally Posted by neufox47

I find that the trick to working on carburetors is to get rid of the extra parts. After you take it apart and put it back together you’ll find there are a few parts that you didn’t need and you aren’t sure where they went in the first place....

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Heh. Some years ago a friend was rebuilding his truck’s carb and had the parts organized in a egg carton. I had some parts left over from a recent carb rebuild - tiny springs, metal balls, and rods - so I dropped a few in his egg carton when he wasn’t looking. One of my best pranks ever. He finally figured it out, but it took a while.

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Originally Posted by char_

Are you getting a spark? You can ground the plug to the piston head (don't do this with fuel everywhere obviously).

When is the last time you put a new air filter on?

Fucking with the carb settings to fix problems always led to saws that didn't run right in my experience.

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This. Had a similar problem with an old MS 460 and discovered a bad spark plug wire. No spark will flood the saw.

https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/...373-48fd-b3b0/

Ya - the needle is #1 - the seat is the bit it sits into.

I am assuming that in the rebuild you checked the float height - so assuming that is right the needle controls flow to the carb and a warn one will let fuel past flooding the engine. If it is an older saw and sat for a while, the funky fuel may have sat on it in the closed position causing buildup as well. I find the simplicity of that bit of design amazing - but it does have to be fairly pristine.

Could def be bad spark as well - when cut for a living I would replace plug wires on a somewhat regular basis and keep the old one in my pack for a spare.

I recently found out that guitar strings are amazing for cleaning little carb journals by the way. They come in different sizes and musicians just throw em away!


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Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

You can get a whole new carb for <$30. Just sayin’.
https://www.amazon.com/Hicello-Carbu...df_B07FTMXNXD/

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I am not sure the Swedish Chef would approve - has anyone tried one of these Chinesium carbs? Very curious - I am about to tear into my old brush saw’s carb and I am thinking that the carb kit is more than that carb at the local Stihl dealer.


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Originally Posted by LHutz Esq

I am not sure the Swedish Chef would approve - has anyone tried one of these Chinesium carbs? Very curious - I am about to tear into my old brush saw’s carb and I am thinking that the carb kit is more than that carb at the local Stihl dealer.

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Never used one, but I plan to try if I get into carb problems. I was struck how the carbs are cheap compared to the kit. This one might, might be Stihl branded.
https://www.hlsproparts.com/Stihl-MS...1-p/h20361.htm

But it could be worthwhile seeing what the dealer wants for an entire Stihl carb.

BW, if you check and your spark isn’t happening, consider a new magneto/wire assembly. I had the magneto go out on mine once. I keep one around as a spare now - small, inexpensive.
https://www.hlsproparts.com/Stihl-MS...l-p/h45361.htm

I was getting blue spark on the weekend, using method described by char. I will check again for spark.

I had assumed that it could be functioning differently and needing carb adjustment because of the new plug. Is that a bad assumption?

It could be the filter. I’ll see if I can get it to fire up without the filter on.

I’ll check float height. Didn’t do that before.

Thanks
/Knob

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Originally Posted by bodywhomper

I had assumed that it could be functioning differently and needing carb adjustment because of the new plug. Is that a bad assumption?

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In my unpaid-for unqualified opinion, that doesn’t seem likely.

Float? I dunno, man.

This past weekend, I cut a couple of white birches that were heavily leaning into a field.
The first was about 20" at the stump. The top 1/3rd of the tree was dead. I did a face cut and a plunge cut in the back leaving a 2" anchor on the backside to hold the tree and to prevent a barber chair. That tree went down perfectly as planned.

The second one which was completely dead but still solid... well that didn't go as quite as planned. This one was only about 16" at the stump. I got the face cut done and went with the same method of the plunge cut with a rear anchor. I started my plunge about 2" higher than the corner of my hinge and about 3" back from it, I was cutting back toward my anchor point with a plan to leave 2" of anchor. Just before I got to that mark BOOM, the rear anchor ripped out and the tree snapped off the 3" of remaining hinge.
Luckily there was no barber chair that this method is supposed to prevent and it fell and landed just as I had planned. However, there was no cracking sound or any other warning that the tree was ready to fall. It scared the shit out of me as I barely had time to take a step back from the tree as it let go.
Looking back, with the tree being fully dead, the fibers in the tree had started to break down. This had weakened them to the point where I needed to leave a thicker rear anchor that wouldn't have ripped out. Or maybe I should have used a different felling method like this one that is used for softer trees...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3EDybH4jjTg

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Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

In my unpaid-for unqualified opinion, that doesn’t seem likely.

Float? I dunno, man.

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I give up, what’s the float? I’m not seeing it the parts illustration.

Is it probably correct to focus on the carb for the flooding problem?

Getting into my slowly growing understanding of function, would something faulty in the carb, like the inlet valve, that’s causing it to flood when trying to start also change how it runs/mixes at idle? I think “yes,” but I’m not sure and I haven’t had much coffee yet.

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Originally Posted by bodywhomper

I give up, what’s the float? I’m not seeing it the parts illustration.

Is it probably correct to focus on the carb for the flooding problem?

Getting into my slowly growing understanding of function, would something faulty in the carb, like the inlet valve, that’s causing it to flood when trying to start also change how it runs/mixes at idle? I think “yes,” but I’m not sure and I haven’t had much coffee yet.

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You mentioned the float height - I was just goofing on that. No float.

I’m no carb expert, but the carb’s where I’d start if there was a spark and the plug was wet. And instead of trying to adjust things I’d either get one of those cheap ones or drop a kit in, full reset. IME once you start trying internal adjustments on a previously working carb you’re going to spend a lot of time fuckin’ with it.

Sorry - it’s a lever not a “float”. Basically the thingy that adjusts the inlet needle.

the lever with the spring I was trying not to loose as my house was filling with smoke yesterday.... :)

Sounds like it. I now think you should purchase the 30$ carb and give it a test for us. In a true ginny-pi...I mean consumer advice fashion.

Lol. Of course, I’m trying to get some some sawing shit taken care of ASAP when I’m not swamped with my day job.

Took a close look at the inlet needle and seat. They look good to me (no nicks or scoring that I can see). Button it all back up and test the plug for spark, nothing. Also no spark on my spare plug. Fiddle around with how I’m ground to the piston head (using scrinch), still no spark.

Never dealt with the electric side of the saw before. Getting to learn something new. I’m starting with the tech manual. Suggestions?

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Originally Posted by From_the_NEK

The second one which was completely dead but still solid... well that didn't go as quite as planned. This one was only about 16" at the stump. I got the face cut done and went with the same method of the plunge cut with a rear anchor. I started my plunge about 2" higher than the corner of my hinge and about 3" back from it, I was cutting back toward my anchor point with a plan to leave 2" of anchor. Just before I got to that mark BOOM, the rear anchor ripped out and the tree snapped off the 3" of remaining hinge.
]

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So your hinge didn’t hold/direct?

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Originally Posted by bodywhomper

Never dealt with the electric side of the saw before. Getting to learn something new. I’m starting with the tech manual. Suggestions?

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And I quote:

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Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

BW, if you check and your spark isn’t happening, consider a new magneto/wire assembly. I had the magneto go out on mine once. I keep one around as a spare now - small, inexpensive.
https://www.hlsproparts.com/Stihl-MS...l-p/h45361.htm

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Damnit! Not sure how I missed that before... sometimes using my phone, I miss things.... thanks. That’ll be good for future reference or maybe I’ll get one now for that pending need.

Anyways, I started to investigate the last ignition and realized that I have good spark after all. I guess I was not pulling hard enough before or maybe my scrench was not actually touching the piston top when I tried a little earlier.

Going to button it up tomorrow morning and see if it runs. If not, and the cylinder is still flooding, I’ll track down a carb kit in town and hope that solves this problem. I need a functional medium-sizes saw ASAP.

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Originally Posted by bodywhomper

Damnit! Not sure how I missed that before... sometimes using my phone, I miss things.... thanks. That’ll be good for future reference or maybe I’ll get one now for that pending need.

Anyways, I started to investigate the last ignition and realized that I have good spark after all. I guess I was not pulling hard enough before or maybe my scrench was not actually touching the piston top when I tried a little earlier.

Going to button it up tomorrow morning and see if it runs. If not, and the cylinder is still flooding, I’ll track down a carb kit in town and hope that solves this problem. I need a functional medium-sizes saw ASAP.

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Ok, sparks good. Newish airfilter on the saw?

(No point in putting on a new carb without a new airfilter....)