Lolololol
Busted!
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Lolololol
Busted!
I think southern Utah is gorgeous. But if someone wanted to see the cool canyon shapes and hoodoos etc, go hike at Bryce.
I also thought McKenzie River trail was dull after a few miles. Very pretty, enjoyable for five miles or so, but after 20 miles of the same stuff... Just not that interesting, and repetitive.
FWIW, now that I live here, I’d never ride MRT from end to end. The best short ride is from the highway crossing at Coldwater Cove down to Trailbridge Reservoir. That way starts with nice flow following the river through the upper rapids, waterfalls, and then Blue Pool chunk to old growth finish. And for a longer, mellow riverside, but not wildly repetitive ending, taking out at Frissel Boat Launch is great. And/or adding the razor sharp Clear Lake section by putting in at the top TH.
^^^ Thanks!
I’m more than happy to share more beta if you come back, there’s like 60 miles of trail within 30 mins of MRT that is really amazing (and not flat repetitive riverside riding), and then endless Oakridge riding where you can shuttle up to like 17k vert in a day.
I have a RaceFace Turbine R dropper that doesn’t reliably come up all the way anymore. I haven’t been able to find much in the way of parts, and it’s looking like it might not be a serviceable part. Can anyone confirm/deny?
Turbine R is just a fox transfer with different paint. Verify with fox, but their rebuild kit should fit it.Quote:
Originally Posted by unitofstuff
Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
That may be true but he wasn't wrong either.Quote:
Originally Posted by meter-man
The best part is...I said both things! :FIREdevilQuote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
This is a VERY common problem when the weather turns colder, for some reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by unitofstuff
Had to tighten both, thank you SenseiQuote:
Originally Posted by North
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
nice :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by meter-man
Can someone give me an idea of how much torque a top cap needs to properly preload a Chris King headset (dropset)? It seems like on my bikes with IS type headsets (or bikes that have special cups that use IS standard headset bearings in them), I tighten them up to a point where they aren't really binding, and the headset is OK for a while, but eventually loosens up / the bearings bed in and I start getting a bit of a knock sound when the front brake is applied.
I'm guessing that too much torque will cause the bearings to be overloaded and then eventually loosen up. And too little means it will be loose from the get go. How much torque will be good for a long period of time without fucking with it?
Using a OneUp threaded EDC thing if it matters, and it seems like about 15-18 N-m of torque is what I need for it to be quiet initially.
That seems like a lot. I can't say I've ever actually looked at the torque numbers for a headset top cap, but just going off of feel, I'd bet I'm generally well under 5 nm. Not sure about with the EDC, but with a normal setup, the star nut will start to slip at 10-ish nm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Yeah, just going by the size of the bolt (if it were a normal star nut), it does seem like a lot. That's why I get so frustrated with headsets - going light = creaking, going heavy starts ok but gets creaky.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Maybe try adding one of those super thin spacers under the top cap? It's like a .1 mm metal washer. It's made all the difference on some bikes for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Yeah, that's solved it before in the past, but currently I have plenty of spacers. I add spacers until it's flush with the top of the steerer, then add my K-Edge mount (5mm) and the EDC cap. The whole thing compresses at least 2mm, so I've definitely learned that I need more spacers than you'd think.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I just pulled it apart, wiped everything down, greased everything, reassembled, and then tightened the top until the whole thing no longer makes knocking sounds when I hold the front brake and push the bike forward. No idea what the torque value was, but a lot more than 5. It's about as much as I can do holding a ratchet right over the cassette lockring tool (so minimal leverage). The steering doesn't feel slow, and it doesn't knock anymore, but the whole procedure seems kinda... unscientific.
IME if I take off the front wheel off the fork its easier to feel if the headset is binding/ too tight
lota weight up thar eh ?
Anybody messed around with grip2 high speed compression valving? Worth it? Possible? Where can I source shims for this?
I’ve got a grip2 stripped down on my workbench for a rebuild.
Running a 180mm fox 38, and always run my HSC in full open. I’d like to get 1 or 2 more clicks open, so that I can have adjustment in the other direction too.
That's a good idea if I do it in the stand. Usually I do it on a floor rack, so that I can periodically weight the front to make sure it's fully seated. Worth trying next time though.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
well you do wana make sure its all seated but I can feel the bearing preload better with the wheel off cuz I only do this once a season when the headset starts making noise so I don't have that feel
Sheared off my xt 12 derailleur today. Are the cheap ones on eBay knockoffs?
Nope, I've gotten multiple Shimano groupsets and brakesets from ebay that were legit. They will have no warranty and won't come in an official box but they're the same as on the shelf at your LBS.Quote:
Originally Posted by carlh
That said, just get a Deore for like $40 from the USA. The Chinese ebay sellers will take several weeks to get to you. And if you've got good cables and an XT shifter, you won't notice any difference from Deore to XT, plus at $40 they're basically disposable wear items.
Us shipping xt are $75 and deore are $40 on eBay. I don’t tend to blow up derailleurs often but if they shift the same it’s tempting to cheap out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
I would bet Deore is just heavier ??