Seems like a good opportunity to fell a tree with dynamite in the name of safety.
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Seems like a good opportunity to fell a tree with dynamite in the name of safety.
Just make sure you have a very safe exit and which tree you will be sheltering behind once your strike tree starts to fall.
Oh for sure. Will do. I joke about this stuff but it’s honestly something I take super seriously. I took to LSAT blatto and hiked the Kalalau fried out of my lobe but don’t play with trees in any measure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peruvian
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If you rig a rope, use a longer rope than you think you’ll need.
That’s the plan. I think the throw bag rope isn’t long enough to give me confidence so I’ll use it to drag a longer rope up there. Going to try that option before downing a nearby tree into it.
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I actually meant rigging for a nearby tree to make sure if gets to the ground :).
My thinning exercise of former Doug fir Xmas trees on my property (very dense 35 year old trees) has resulted in many getting hung up on branches of other trees when felling, even when it looked like there’d be enough momentum for the trees to get to the ground. I’ve learned that it’s worth the time to rig up a rope and pull system (out of harms way) in the tree that I’m felling if there’s a even a slim chance of it getting caught up in surrounding branches.
Ah gotcha. Good call.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
I’ve also honestly thought about shooting it with a shotgun at the fulcrum as well.
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Comedy from a tree forum I stumbled on.
https://www.masterblasterhome.com/th...1/#post-929214
I did some ripping with my chainsaw and ever since it the chain runs after taking finger off of throttle. Can easily stop by putting bar on wood but it does cut a bit before it stops. Not a terrible safely issue but would probably put a cut in jeans. Something I need to clean again?
so you are saying the idle speed is high ?
On my sthil I never touched the 2 mixture screws but I could turn the idle up or down, its just a carb linkage stop
The motor runs on an air/ fuel mix so if the airfilter is partialy plugged it will change the mixture so instead of procrastinating I bought a spare (not expensive) so I could wash one filter out and let it dry after every day
I would pull the top cover to clean the engine fins/ clutch area/ flip the bar & clean the slot/ sharpen chain & swap the airfilter after every day of operation and the engine always ran the same, cuz the last thing I wanted was to carry this thing up/ down a ski run and not have it working right
adjusted idle and its pretty good now , will come to a stop after a while but not right away
Bought a 70cc knockoff saw that showed up today to use while I go through my husky(and well N+1). Go to fire it up before doing some wood cutting and it just won't fire. It burped like twice but nothing. Correct starting process. Even pulled plug and dried off. Nothing. I'm thinking well you get what you pay for. I let it sit for a few hours and made a whiskey. Go back out and fires up. Pretty sure it got flooded but whatever. Stoked for a bigger bar and more power. Couple of arborist friends have them and said there's a couple things to swap out but overall good saws. And at like a 1/3 of the cost I'll be psyched to just get a few seasons outta it.
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Taking down a 20 or so footer in my driveway annoyed I brought my docking pole on my boat my second last day out this winter that thing stretches to 12 feet and would let me get the rope where I want it.
Got a really cheap plug in chainsaw I borrowed not sure it'll work.
Never cut many aspen or many deciduous trees, but got this one that's root wad is coming out of the ground as the tree tilts - it's 30 degrees more tilt than before the weekends rain. Is this going to barber chair? 55', 16" DBH
Attachment 471373
If it were me and the root wad is already moving, I'd find a way to pull it over.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner
Yes, if you cut it conventionally.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner
Small face, boring back cut.
Bubba would cut it from the back without thinking twice.
Oh I see Bubba's work everywhere in the forest. My skills were once state of the ark, but that was 35 years ago so I might pass on this one. Thanks for the pointer though.Quote:
Originally Posted by oldnew_guy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joey Joe Joe Junior Shabadoo
I was thinking the same, well we see what the pros want to do the job or perhaps I could get them to knock it down and I'd do the rest.
god I hope you didn't do any other maintenanceQuote:
Originally Posted by DougW
You got a serious danger tree there. Deciduous are more prone to barber. Leaners definitely risk to barber. Also, it’s hung up in the fir tree too. If you got the money hire that one out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner
https://youtu.be/EKzvkRnCF58?si=oIEWf1C7QUBOioOx
https://youtu.be/3EDybH4jjTg?si=JWnT-VRe_T7I2YJY
https://youtu.be/TBNs_nVGNoo?si=jmltRMV6ssq7suYY
pay money to drop that little thing?
funny
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
Thank you.
Actually the cost of removal of the stem and branches is where the expense lies. So the question is do I want to spend a day running a saw, picking up and humping the mess off to the dump AND contend w doing something that's makes me a little uncomfortable. Bottom line - if I need to pay for clean up and disposal may as well have them knock it over too.Quote:
Originally Posted by ~mikey b
I got golf to play and leg blasters to do!!!
well then you’ve answered your own questions
16” dbh? That doesn’t look like a 16” diameter. You mean circumference?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner
Walk out there in shorts and flip flops, lay the bar on the back of that sucker, do the safety squint and let ‘er eat.
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Hell, just put a sign on the tree calling it a Tarzan tree and a couple 12yo local orangutans will bring that tree down to earth in an hour, roots and all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
Multiple massive roots from the spruce cover up the aspen's root wad, so it may appear knocking it over could be a solution I'm sure I'd break something on my truck in the process.
Well it might be 15" dbh, it's been ~40 years since I last cruised timber.
Steady old 395xp left me walking for the first time today. Cutting wood for the RORs charity group today. Ran a tank and half and shut her down for a break and no fire after. Weak and white spark, as well as not wanting to run after being hot, has me thinking a bad magneto. Already checked all the easy things. Tossed in a new plug. Checked the famously crap shut off switch. I will take it to the shop and see what they say, but the mounts are going out too. It’s first 5 years were commercial falling, so it isn’t a spring chicken now that is over 10 years old.
I have been scouting new Huskies. The 395 and 390 are finished and what’s on the shelf are all that are left. Another 395 is appealing to use my old saw for parts. The 390 is a classically good saw and both are still cheaper than the 500 series. The 592 with auto tune is appealing. I can tune a carb, but not having to and having it always right no matter temp or elevation is appealing. Guy at Madsen’s in Centralia says they got the injection pretty dialed. Only knock on it that he hears (they sell a lot of saws) is that the mounts go quick. The price and power of the 585 is appealing and it is a bit simpler since it is still carbureted. Both with the lower emissions is appealing as it would be nice not to smell so bad at the end of the day. Also, but have more power, less vibration, and 1lb. lighter than the 395.
A 70cc saw is probably the best for my needs, but I already have so much 36in chain and bar that it makes sense to stay in the 90cc. A 372 with a power tune can pull 36, but I would rather run it stock.
Might be the time to enter the new millennium and since the 300s are basically a 30ish year platform.
Just thinking out load here. Thanks for listening.
It was good day cutting another load of firewood for the winter. The weather was great with sun and about 50-55 degrees F. The wood is all red oak with a one small maple.Attachment 472148
That’s a full truck!
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What would you all do?
Took my saw to a local shop that should know its shit. Got it back they replaced only the plug wire. I suspected it needed a coil too. Ok take it out wood cutting for the volunteer group. Won’t shut off, so another broken kill switch. I wonder how did they miss that if they had it running, but whatever I will just bypass it and ground it to shut it down and replace the switch later. All is Ok for two tanks of gas. Shut it down for a coffee break and no go after. Again a good indicator of a bad ignition. Get home order a coil and 5 new kill switches; a shitty design if they come in 5 packs for only a few more dollars than one. Parts came today. Put them all in, make a new wire for the kill switch, and boom saw running on first pull after choke. So I should have never bothered with the shop and fixed my own shit. Lesson learned.
Here’s where I need the advice though. Gave the same shop four chains to grind because my old man is away on a hunting trip. Go to put a chain back on and they fucking ground them round when they were all chisel. This is supposed a be a real fucking saw shop in an actual timber town. I didn’t even think to ask them if they can grind chisel bit because every commercial faller here runs chisel. I asked the saw shop in Salem a couple weeks ago and he doesn’t even have a chisel grinder anymore because he mostly serves homeowners. Not only did they change them all to round, they’re not even sharp. So go confront the shop or just never go there again?
The next best shop is a 30 min drive. Damn I wish grandpa would have kept his shop (Barney’s in Newport OR and then later in John Day) running until I was old enough to run it.
Things like that ignition problem are always clear in retro spect
I would complain about the chain grinding if its not what you want
Do you have the vid of it coming down yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner
I guess I’d tell the shop to replace the chains, then never go back again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
Bummer about the chains. Maybe a call first and then a visit to get the replacement chains.
Is there locals that grinds/sharpens in your area? My neighbor has a shop at his home with a full workload. Sharpens any cutting tools: knives, chippers, saw chains, etc.. He’s the go-to for several landscaping companies and restaurants.
Agree on chain comments above. They should know.
You know what you need for a saw, but always nice to go a bit lighter.
I'm not cutting now days but when i did I had an Oregon jig that I could clamp on the bar to do a really accurate job
so i would do 3 chains in my shop while having a beverage which was enough for the next day
when i first did my own sharpening freehand, I did so unevenly so the cut was pulling to one side, so I like the jig
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rideski
Nah, they showed up out of the blue one morning while I was rolling out to the gym. It was a nothingburger so next time I'll know. 1 min cutting, 59 mins cleanup.
Came back to the thread to say they billed me $475, which for a faller, helper, truck, chipper, and disposal for an hour's work plus travel I thought was fair. I may have gotten friends and family discount, but I'm not sure.
Take chains back and ask them to grind square? Saw shops that used to be saw shops are becoming more common. Only one place down here will actually grind square chisel. I hand file all my square chisel now and am looking into getting a Simington.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
I will say that I'm surprised that a saw shop in a timber town missed that in NW OR?
Edit: I'm late to the discussion, as usual.