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That or heat and judicious use of a slide hammer if I can figure out how to get the hooks around the axle to hook on the back. I'm kind of afraid of bending that plate and making things worse if I smack a cold chisel or wedge in there. Thanks for the encouragement.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obstruction
FWIW this is what the new hubs look like Attachment 275738 It's that little ridge that's corroded into the plate and won't let go.
Impact drill with a flat/inert drill bit. With that go through the hub, "drilling" in different spots to make it resonate.
Safer than hammer and can be very effective.
Just take a small pry and claw that shit out like a lobster.
Seriously, the force is with you.
Don't be scared now in the wrenchin thread.
Uggh. I even went and grabbed an electric 15 pound hammer and went to town. No luck, that bastard is in there. #the repwithoutaroadtripcar Oh well, back at it tomorrow. I'm nearly demoralized but can't give up.
Everyone who wrenches has had(many) of those days. Sometimes you just need to walk away and let the rage clear. Or invite a buddy over with promises of beer and make them have a go at it. You'll get er.
Will get pics tomorrow, above bumber since I want to change out for more clearance in futureQuote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Yeah, get those brake shoes out of the way, and get the pry bar and hammer out. Force. Add flame, heat, then force. Gotta beat that fucker out.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
Kroil the joint that's sticking. Then get the brakes out of the way and maul that hubfucker standing up with an 8-pounder to break the seal.
A big enough hammer is key. Cranking the wheel might get you a better angle. Don't pussy around with it, but take care of yourself. Use anti-seize when you put it back together, for the next guy.
So I've got a '77 bj-40 with the original B engine.
It's got a high-idle regardless of whether its hot/cold and seems to be the Edic (which checks out ok on the resistor bench) or the diesel fuel pump which might have a tiny leak or potentially condensate.
Anybody work on these 24v bastards?
isnt the rear axle bolted onto the rear diff output flange? take it off and out of the way so you can hammer it for real.Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
It presses into the dif on this car with no retaining screws. Pro tip - The stop ring stays on the axle not in the dif housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Zander
I still think the most effective way to beat the hub out is to hit the bolts from the inside. Removing the e-brake off of the dust shield and dropping the axle should make it easier to get at the bolts with a long drift punch. Keep in mind the hub is likely sticking in the knuckle andthe dust shield.
At this point you may want to consider just pulling the whole trailing arm/upright so you can hammer on it on the bench, or bring it to someone with a press. Technically, if you don't unbolt the inner rear link toe adjuster it shouldn't need an alignment afterward. Those lower shock bolts are really tight though.
^^Jamal - I thought about it but don't have a good impact wrench and am hesitant to wreck any of the bushings and create a bigger pita for myself.
I just had someone explain to me this morning how to remove the parking brake bits so I may try that today. One thing I noticed when beating on it yesterday is that the suspension seems to take a fair bit of the concussive force out of the hits.Quote:
Originally Posted by basinbeater
Quote:
Originally Posted by highangle
It's rear not front ;) Yup anti seize is an old friend.
When I did that I mushroomed the top of the bolts to the point where they started to compress and I was afraid I'd make it so I couldn't get them out as the threads kept compressing so I stopped. I should probably have been using hardened bolts not Ace Hardware store stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Obstruction
Yeah like I said the rear shock bolts can be a huge PITA, plus it's not uncommon for bolts to seize into the bushing sleeves, so you have to cut it off and replace it all. Taking it all off could defintely be more hassle than it's worth, but you could still try cracking the bolts loose to see. If something isn't coming off, then, well, don't mess with it.
This is an important part if it- actually applying all the force usefully. An other tip would be combining a puller with a hammer. To get a stubborn ball joint out of a control arm for example, I'll pry on it, but also hit the arm on the side. It's not even in the right direction but will usually pop it right out.Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
Possibly you could take a short strip of steel, some threaded rods, and bolts, and make your own puller that threads into the bearing housing holes and presses against the upright. Then when it's nice and tight give the whole thing a couple of good whacks.
Drilled hole in metal plate under the tailgate. Look under M on tailgateQuote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Attachment 276131
Edit: I went with one valve. Got a T connector for the air lines and fill both bags same. I may change it to two valves, going to run it like this for a bit.
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkgt
I’ve read reasonable arguments for one valve and for 2 valves.
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Regarding my leaking valve cover and plug gasket on my subi. Looks like my mechanic may cover it under a warranty. He did a little work on the piston ring (I think) about 350 days ago which corrected a pesky and inconsistent misfire on a cylinder.
You may end up having to remove the whole knuckle off the car to really be able to go to town on it. I've done ones before that I COULD NOT get out, so pulled knuckle off, beat on it, but ended up having to use a cutting wheel and a dremel to cut through it enough to where the force being applied would pop it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by gravitylover
Don't give up.
On a separate note, I hassle some of you guys for pics, but I took none last night. You know that feeling? of VICTORY? Well last night I went to town on my old bimmer again. This poor car, I just drive the piss out of it, and it was a $2000 jalopy when I got it. This time it was fuel filter, oil change, front sway bar end links, and transmission mounts. When I installed the transmission and clutch, I re used the old dual mass flywheel, which you are supposed to replace, but mine looked fine, so I did not. Well the last several months, I have had an engine speed related vibration between 2-3k rpm that was starting to drive me crazy. I was very worried that it was going to be that old flywheel. So I had some new transmission mounts, and when I got in there, sure enough, one of the fancy aftermarket poly mounts that were on the car when I got it, had failed threads. The new trans mounts totally solved my driveline vibration, and the sway bar end links solved my front end clunk. Car is Smooooooooth again.... So happy I don't have to drop $400 on a new fly wheel and drop the trans again.
I did give up, a mobile mechanic is on the way now. I don't have the right tools to take apart the stuff that may need to come apart so the smart thing to do was throw in the towel and call a pro. Even if he's here for 2 hours it will still be less than half the labor a shop wanted because I did one side and it came out just fine. Hey, here's a question for you. The instructions that came with the new hubs said not to use the old axle nuts. I did on the other side and it seems ok but should I run to the parts store and get new ones before this guy gets here? They are the kind where you pop a little dent in it after torquing it down.Quote:
Originally Posted by basinbeater
If it says to use new ones, you should use new ones. But if you didn't, you wouldn't be the first...
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:)
If you could even find new axel nuts...
New ones would only eliminate having to correct the old staked spot. As long as you stake a new area you are fine.
They aren't expensive or hard to come by, no reason not to get new ones. Axle nut torque is pretty important for bearing life so it's not really worth re-using them.
For torque spec, btw, 04 manual says 174 lb-ft and an 07 manual says 177 (oddly higher than all the other cars). This is done with the wheel off the ground to set proper bearing preload (I set the parking brake and then have someone hold the regular brakes down while I torque them.
Sounds right to me. I bought a whole bunch of new gold zinc plated nuts, washers, and common bolts sizes for the BMW and Porsche, and when I pull old ones off, new ones go on whenever possible.
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Done! I had a guy come by and he showed me how to remove (and reinstall) the e-brake.Attachment 276328Attachment 276329
We were able to get a punch/cold chisel in behind it too and beat it to loosen it then wailed on the bearing carrier until it came out. All told I pounded on it for probably 6 hours from a variety of directions and with a slide hammer then he worked it for another hour or so with a bigger hammer and chisel. That thing was so rusted when it came out we were both amazed, especially since the passenger side wasn't. Oh well... plenty of anti seize in there now so if I have to do it again it shouldn't be too bad.
Auto Zone and Advance both didn't have them in stock. The old axle nuts went on just fine and torqued to 180 just like they were supposed to. I gently lifted the punched area to make it easier to remove them so it wasn't all buggered up, the threads were intact and clean. It was off the ground when I put them on, held it from turning with a long rod in between the wheel studs wedged against the ground so it shouldn't have sent anything out of whack (I hope).
That's a win. Congrats.