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I'm not buying Dewalt. Too many stories plus personal experience of batteries failing quickly and motors burning.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I suggest choosing between Makita and Milwaukee. If you want a third add Porter Cable. Honestly, you can't go wrong with either of the first two. Just make sure it's brushless.
Buy hilti if your dentist dollars allow. I have an impact and sawzall and they cannot be beat.
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Bro in law does Hilti for nail guns and some other tools too. Also has a sweet DeWalt battery operated mitre/chop saw with a nice stand. 2 big batteries. Lots of job sites don't have power or easy access/hassle with gennies batteries work for lots but he said the framing nailers aren't there yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by japanada
Side note I bought one of those battery op blowers for easy quick cleanups. Works nice and the Ryobi has a bunch of other garden type tools.
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Haven’t read all thru the thread but noticed trex. We just got a quote of $55k for a full replacement for our wood deck on a newly purchased but not new home. The deck is 10-15 yo.Quote:
Originally Posted by beece
That was a spit take quote. The contractor must have seen the nitrous tank and assumed I was a dentist.
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I own all Makita. I have no issues with their products for homeowner use. I bought them originally because I got a driver / drill combo on sale. Since then I have picked up a bunch of other pieces (hedge trimmer, string trimmer, blower, sawzall, etc...) and have been happy with everything.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
At work, my carpenters and laborers use Dewalt. That’s because we have a national account at Whitecap and Whitecap sells yellow stuff. My guys will burn through a dewalt driver in about 2 years, if it doesn’t get stolen in those two years... Which is 1000s of hours of real use. Dewalt is fine for a homeowner, in 10 years you won’t come close to driving the amount of 3” #10s my guys do in a year... don’t read to much into the Dewalt hate, their stuff is fine. Most of the industry runs Dewalt because of Whitecap and Grainger.
Milwaukee is nicer but it’s overkill for homeowner use. Only buy it if it’s a good deal.
Hilti is WAY overkill for homeowner use. Their shit is awesome though. Check out their torque wrench power pack for the driver, cool shit.
Honestly, the discount big box brands like Ryobi and Rigid are what we should all be buying as homeowners. Yes, they are not built for industry use. But for the amount you actually use the thing the price savings is worth it. You might be able to get a few more pieces for the same money...
Also, I buy unbranded batteries from amazon for 1/2 price of the name brand.... maybe one day my garage will burn down but for now I saved $60.
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In case anyone still isn't familiar with AVE/BOLTR
noiceQuote:
Originally Posted by mtnwriter
Wow, that was an interesting watch, thxQuote:
Originally Posted by JimmyCarter
...and another one goes down the rabbit hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by acinpdx
Buy Festool, except for the Milwaukee Super Sawzall, I did recently got a Makita 18v sub-compact set that I’ve been happy with so far it’s light weight, smaller great battery life [emoji41]Quote:
Originally Posted by japanada
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Yup. I even know the dangers and I still just got sucked into a 30 minute video of.him fixing a German tourist's bike's suspension linkage by making his own pin from a block of chromoly.Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman
yeah but snoqpass^^^ probably doesn't want to watch the festool ones.
Have you watched any of Colin Furze’s vidoes? The guy makes some really cool shit. The thermite launcher could be in t gondola threadQuote:
Originally Posted by iceman
http://youtube.com/watch?v=JEoqrjFX1yI
I have always used drills but recently discovered the benefit of impact drivers. Ordered both a makita 12v impact and a hex drill driver. Is this totally redundant or is it nice to have a smoother more adjustable hex drill in addition to the impact?
Haven't yet but will check them out, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by snoqpass
Not redundant. You will learn to use them for different things, but I would have preferred an impact and standard chuck.Quote:
Originally Posted by skialpy
12v I would not invest in, however.
If one has a standard chuck drill is impact driver and hex drill driver redundant?
Sometimes you have to do some drilling
Sometimes you have to do some driving
Sometimes you have to do a bit of both
Like the other guy said 12v isn’t worth it anymore
Standard chuck is better than hex. Standard makes hex redundant. Hex doesn't quite replace standard though.Quote:
Originally Posted by skialpy
Impact is a different thing used for different tasks - not redundant.
This post, however, is redundant. My bad on that.
For sanding stuff down quicklyQuote:
Originally Posted by iceman
with minimal dust it’s hard to beat the Rotex sander with the extractor hooked up to it
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My laundry room gets hot as fuck. Probably 15deg hotter than the rest of the house. Combination of three issues best I can tell:
1) There is a large window that faces west and gets blasted by sun in the afternoon. Any advice on insulating shades? (cellular shades, solar shades, etc...). Are they worth a damn?
2) The water heater is in there, naked. I wonder if I frame it in, rigid insulation, make it look like a cabinet.... would that make a difference? I think the window is more of the issue...
3) Washer / dryer heatin it up. Nothing really I can do there. I think the issues above are more the cause...
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If the laundry room window is inconspicuous from the outside hang cheap roller shades from the underside of the eaves, if available. We have some bamboo shades that have held up surprisingly well, although we get zero rain in the summer. In a situation where you don't need to be raising and lowering constantly and where appearance is not an issue, shades outside the window are more effective.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
How old is the water heater. If not recent either put a blanket around it or replace it. The new ones are already well insulated.
I assume the dryer is properly vented to the outside.
Wash with cold water.
And the most important thing--spend as little time as possible in the laundry room and the heat won't bother you.
Does it matter what R13 batt I buy? Johns Manville, Owens Corning, etc? Cheaper to buy uncut rolls or really not worth some savings for my time to cut everything? I have maybe 25 batts i need to cut or buy pre-cut.
I'm installing in bare framing (16" studs) with no drywall on either sides.
Brand doesn't matter, no real difference between brands. Pre cuts are 93", so if that works in your bays go for it to avoid the hassle of cutting.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted
Realtor sent me some pics last night, wanted to know if I had time to fix this mess. Thankfully not available. 16 yo house, new owner from Baltimore, came up last week to close on the sale with his family and fix a few bad cedar clapboards. Opened a huge can of worms.
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