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Good to hear you are out and getting a bit. I've found, coming off injuries, I enjoyed the mellow stuff a lot more than I recalled. It does not take much to have a good time in snow and waves.
Today was super glassy, head high, and a bit dis organized. Only 4 guys out at the Slot. Sure, it wa less than perfect, but I would have expected a few more. Still got off a pic or two.
^^Sweet. I was worried that was your Subie in the lot at 4 Mile with the window punched out. Scored Mitchell's around 3pm. Never seen it break like that in my life.
Edit: Screw you guys with your 3/2's and your board short summers. My Patagonia weighed in at 25#'s today. I've been stuck in a 5/4 for the last three years.
I broke my main surfing rule and went out on Sunday when it was pouring rain down here...I am now sick as a dog...a really sick dog.
Way more guys out at the lane this morning. Not great, especially for the crowd, but every once and a while a gem came through. I don't think I can get out today. Hope the winds stay lighter than expected for tomorrow. Swell and conditions look okay for the next several days. Thinking I might stay home and surf this weekend.
Just closed out with Finatic. If you don't mind 5-7 day wait in between fins, it is a pretty decent program. If I had a little more disposable incomes, I could see renting for a longer period. I spent $10.98, bought fins from them, and saved the $7.99 shipping. So, basically $3 to try out two different pair of fins. Had i been on my surf, I think I could have tried at least 4 sets.
still basically flat here on the right coast. no swell since december 30th. flat january and nothing much on the horizon. longest flat stretch all year. ah well at least the skiing is close and has been good. glad yous guys are getting some.
rog
This coming weekend could become exceptionally good. West coasters, figure out your big swell breaks, because if this storm develops as forecasted over the next 48 hours, shit is gonna go off. Conditions look like they could be prime as well. Of course, I am going to be inthe mountains with the family. Shame.
Right now, it is a beach break day perhaps.
fucking finally.
16 days of below the knee. today provided waist high sets, perfect winds, and 60 degree air temps with full sun in york.
just me and a few longboarders and a supper. caught a shit ton of fun lil rights on the lil board. waves had great shape even if kinda slow. lots of fading takeoffs.
tomorrow i close on a house one mile on a private dirt road from where i surfed today. will cut my drive from 16 miles to the beach down to a 1 mile beach cruiser ride with board under the arm. crazy how much gas i'm gonna save. stoked!
may be a wave out there in the a.m. hope you westies get it good!
rog
Congrats on becoming a Maniac. So, the population of your neighborhood grows by 1.8 million percent in summer? You will need to start trying short sands and a few select reefs up shore road now that you are a yorky.
Update on the coming weekend. It looks not huge, but more like epic. Search out your long period breaks, not your big wave breaks. They are calling for 25-27sec periods up here on Saturday morning, dropping to 20 secs on Sunday as the height builds to 8-9 feet. Big spots will top out over 15 feet and be throwing hard. Well protected breaks will be picking up and going off, grinding at a much more manageable size.. I can think of three around these parts that will be killer by Sunday. And conditions look prime. Down south plenty of this stuff will filter through. Swell down to 6@16 by Tuesday. That's an entire weekend of swell. And sunshine. And it is gonna be 70F in town. I'm pumped, and I'm gonna miss it until at least Monday evening.
thanx! haven't been a maniac since 2000. nice to be back. 1.8 mil huh? guess that means 18 more surfers in summer:D. i can handle that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
another coupla fun days in the water. this am was the 1st wake up sesh at the new palace. 4" of new snow and snowing moderately. drove the (gulp) one mile of unplowed dirt road to the beach and had the place to myself in thigh/waist clean sets.
next coupla days look to tick up to chest high by friday. love the daily water time again!
rog
jeezum crow.
drove by york this am and was kinda meh about what i was seeing. wind and tide was better for the river mouth so i poked up the coast to find perfect, clean, powerful, consistent chest high sets with perfect winds and no one out. at 8am. what is wrong with this place?:D
so good. one guy pulled up and watched me the whole time i was out and when i got out i remarked how good it was and he said, "oh, maybe i'll go out then", and started to put on his suit. fucking weird. funny how it can look small from the little lighthouse, but as you walk up the path and get that straight angle on it you can see what's really goin on. he never walked up that far.
off to work
rog
The lighthouse is also pretty high up above sea level, especially at lower tide. Perspective throws folks off. I spot I surf around here will look chest high from the cliff when no one is out, then you climb down and it is well OH. Can fuck with board selection for us quiver guys. Especially since getting down/up the cliff is death defying.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
And rumor has it that the Maverick's contest is a go for Sunday ........
ooh, yeah. bet that's a bit puckery.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
still in awe of this morning. things were coming over thick and heavy for little waves. love when duck diving deep nuff just to get under em and my mitts are scaping the sandy bottom:)
so stoked for morning. an uptick in size me thinks.
rog
Mitts. Thanks for the reminder.
Mavs is scheduled. Harbor Master says 30'. I'm guess smaller than that, but thick as wholly hell with prime conditions. So, more like 23' and throaty. 22s plus expected in the early morning, with size building. Geez. Still, I'm surprise they called it already. JASON1 suggest less size than forecast. Could be sub 20', which is basically not big.
Mav's will be small. Can't believe they're running it. There's a special spot just south of OB that will be all-time. Hopefully the crowds will flock to the contest. Tomorrow will be excellent warm up for Bocas next week!!!
Small? I would not really call it small, unless you live a secret life as a hell man. It won't be huge, but it will be thick. I think they called it due to the weather and the period. And the years they let a day like this weekend's pass w/o runnin it and then never had a chance again that winter. The cool thing is the prize will go to the best high performance big wave rider. Buoy reports are looking good ad of yesterday afternoon. Let's say 22.3' shacks
Where you looking? Pedro's? Rockaway? There will be plenty of deep water spots going off this weekend. Have fun.
Starting to pick up a tiny bit down here. Still not much, but it looks like there is something. I don't know how much we will pick up.
I might be able to get out and freeze tomorrow morning.
I saw 15-20' waves, but nothing that reminded me of a Maverick's comp. I refuse to surf out there, but I would have surfed those waves. I'm guessing that the comp gets a certain amount of funding if they run it, and they wanted the funding. There was a day three weeks ago that had bigger, more consequential waves out there. I was at Ross's, and was surprised. Then again, it wasn't a two day run of perfect weather.
Nah, I mean just south of OB, like five miles. Surf here has been awesome, but you're definitely paying the piper.
today concluded a five day surf week with thursday and today offering the most favorable conditions.
brisk sw winds and a south swell brought me straight to the rivermouth this am. a buddy in nh texted me and said no surf there. not surprised as south swells get blocked by the cape and they just don't fill in to nh. well, ogt was really fun chest/shoulder with good shape and power. just a few folks out and many great waves were had. the lefts were so good as well. surfed from 9am to noon for my longest single session in quite some time. with january air temp of 50 and water temp still a very balmy 47 degrees, conditions were very pleasant.
tomorrow looks flat with maybe an uptick for tuesday. the weekend could be very interesting.
SURFING!!!!!:D
rog
Pictures? I heard OB was all time.Quote:
Originally Posted by BS720
Edit: Never mind:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RU5Rf...layer_embedded
Damn, that right there is why a quiver is a must. Rog, there's no way your 1 board quiver could handle that. Pitched into the flats to rinse cycle if you cheat on foam with waves like that
if we ever had size like that round here, i'd probably have to go up a few inches fer sure:)
rog
Holy Smokin' Lefts!!!!!
We don't really see that size here either, I'm pretty sure I've never surfed anything like those waves in the vid, those guys are charging. I even forgot to mention that I surfed yesterday. Caught some shoulder+ waves with long walls to race down, kinda inconsistent but only 2 other guys out and I lucked into the choice waves of the sets. Being in rhythm with the ocean is rewarding.Quote:
Originally Posted by icelanticskier