The chainsaw thread...

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Originally Posted by Art Shirk

I’m sure it’s been mentioned in here many times but what say yee all about the 462? I have a small husqy but need a work horse and was told to get one of these.


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It’s a classic if you need a 70+ CC saw.

Husky (372) of the same class might make more sense if you already own a husky and the associated maintenance stuff.

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Originally Posted by oldnew_guy

It’s a classic if you need a 70+ CC saw.

Husky (372) of the same class might make more sense if you already own a husky and the associated maintenance stuff.

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I have a ton of work to do with large downed trees and don’t want to want for power. Don’t have a ton of accoutrements for the husqy but that’s a good point.


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For a pro saw in the power-to-weight ratio, you can’t go wrong with a 72cc saw. My 38 is a couple pounds heavier and I’ve never regretted it when faced with several days of hard cutting in front of me. And depending on your height, a 24” bar saves on the back when bucking lots on the ground, without being too tip heavy.

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Originally Posted by Art Shirk

I’m sure it’s been mentioned in here many times but what say yee all about the 462? I have a small husqy but need a work horse and was told to get one of these.


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Sick saw.

I haven’t run the 500i, but have heard that is better pwr/wt, but not by much!

I borrowed a 461 to help with this job. I can’t remember what length the bar was but I know the tree was 40 plus inches at the base and it pulled right through.

Attachment 430458

Husky 572XP is my "big" saw (70cc is very much a mid-sized powerhead, but if I ever needed more power or a bigger bar, I'm calling a pro). Has no trouble throwing chips with a 28" bar fully buried. With a 20" on there it is scary fast to buck with. The anti-vibe system is the best of any saw I've used, which should be a factor in your decision if you're going to be running the thing for hours on end.

I can also swap a chain on it in about 90 seconds, so I'm also firmly in the XXX-er camp of carrying multiple chains and not dealing with sharpening in the field.

You have to buy Stihl's through an authorized dealer, in-store, and the local Stihl dealers here are all a bunch of cocksuckers, so I'm a Husky guy.

What's a good rechargeable one for small stuff around my house?

I've cut a good bit of wood over the last 2y with a 40v greenworks with a 16" bar. It's no pro timber rig and bogs when I force it but it zips right through all the beetle kill that we've got to work with in Colorado. Haven't used one myself but have heard several folks who really like their Milwaukee 18v saws also.

I’m a relative jong with chainsaws, but I like my EGO just fine for about anything I have the motivation to cut down and chop up. I don’t know what I would do with more power if I had it, but comparing to small gas powered saws I don’t notice any deficiencies or particular difference in that department, except I don’t have to screw around with small, fickle, noisy gas engines. I have a little ecosystem going of EGO yard tools at this point, so I run out of time or energy or things to cut well before I ever run out of juice.

If you are in the Makita battery universe, the 2x18v chainsaws are awesome. Greatly exceeded expectations, probably a little less power that a gas stihl of the same bar length, sounds like Ficher Price, but cuts super legit. It really shone on a trail work day, slipped in a backpack, and handled big blow downs no prob.

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Originally Posted by Art Shirk

I have a ton of work to do with large downed trees and don’t want to want for power. Don’t have a ton of accoutrements for the husqy but that’s a good point.


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If you are ready to spend $1000+ for a new one either one will do the job I’m sure.

Be aware that with that power to pull through big logs also comes more power to fuck you up (tip kick back, cutting through things faster than you think, etc). If you don’t have experience already, do some reading or work with someone on how to buck large down trees. You can get yourself into some nasty situations if you aren’t reading the tree right.

Reading bind, offside cut first, wedging, sequence of cuts, boring, etc…

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Originally Posted by HobieTony

If you are in the Makita battery universe, the 2x18v chainsaws are awesome. Greatly exceeded expectations, probably a little less power that a gas stihl of the same bar length, sounds like Ficher Price, but cuts super legit. It really shone on a trail work day, slipped in a backpack, and handled big blow downs no prob.

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Same here. I’ve come around on the makita. It’s great for small work around the cabin, remote campsites etc. don’t try bucking logs with it though.

Overall I’m pretty satisfied w the 16” dual battery model.

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Originally Posted by mooseknuckle

Sick saw.

I haven’t run the 500i, but have heard that is better pwr/wt, but not by much!

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500i feels lighter than a 462/462C in my experience. Power head is much narrower so easier to handle when falling/limbing. Way better fuel economy in my experience. But I think your right that the power is around the same. Personally I would get the 500i over a 462C as the cost is pretty close, I think 160$ at the local dealer. Biggest issue with the 500i is no heated full wrap grip offered, at least last time I checked.

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Originally Posted by oldnew_guy

If you are ready to spend $1000+ for a new one either one will do the job I’m sure.

Be aware that with that power to pull through big logs also comes more power to fuck you up (tip kick back, cutting through things faster than you think, etc). If you don’t have experience already, do some reading or work with someone on how to buck large down trees. You can get yourself into some nasty situations if you aren’t reading the tree right.

Reading bind, offside cut first, wedging, sequence of cuts, boring, etc…

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^Very true.
It's hard to read big trees on bind sometimes. You read it right for the first few cuts and then it changes on the next cut.
I usually take a 2nd saw...and if that gets stuck, I borrow a 3rd one. :)

Btw, I have a pre-Xtorq 372XP and it's a real fine saw. I can recommend it if you find a good used one. Very smooth running compared to some smaller saws I had/have. I've actually considered selling it though because I don't have acres of forest to deal with anymore and it's overkill for smaller stuff, but it's my favorite saw.

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Originally Posted by skisurfmirth

500i feels lighter than a 462/462C in my experience. Power head is much narrower so easier to handle when falling/limbing. Way better fuel economy in my experience. But I think your right that the power is around the same. Personally I would get the 500i over a 462C as the cost is pretty close, I think 160$ at the local dealer. Biggest issue with the 500i is no heated full wrap grip offered, at least last time I checked.

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I appreciate this feedback. Will be getting one or the other, but that’s about as to the point as I could ask for in review. Don’t need more power, but I’ll pay better attention to the power head layout. Thinking a 25” and 20” bar and you can get pretty much anything done.

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Originally Posted by Dr. Adirondack

Husky 572XP is my "big" saw (70cc is very much a mid-sized powerhead, but if I ever needed more power or a bigger bar, I'm calling a pro). Has no trouble throwing chips with a 28" bar fully buried. With a 20" on there it is scary fast to buck with. The anti-vibe system is the best of any saw I've used, which should be a factor in your decision if you're going to be running the thing for hours on end.

I can also swap a chain on it in about 90 seconds, so I'm also firmly in the XXX-er camp of carrying multiple chains and not dealing with sharpening in the field.

You have to buy Stihl's through an authorized dealer, in-store, and the local Stihl dealers here are all a bunch of cocksuckers, so I'm a Husky guy.

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yeah but how fast can you roll a joint ?

the husky dealer here is an idiot while the Sthil/ Jonsered dealer is pretty good, I would be ok with running any of the 3 brands but I'm glad I am dealing with the Sthil guys

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Originally Posted by Art Shirk

I’m sure it’s been mentioned in here many times but what say yee all about the 462? I have a small husqy but need a work horse and was told to get one of these.


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A local lumber jack tells me he runs 3 of them sez they are awesume saws, he sends them away to get Walkerized, mayb cuz he is not that big so he doesnt want to lug around more saw & fuel than he needs to

If you like big saws, big cuts and cute girls, you should follow this lady on Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/tree_being/

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Originally Posted by Timberridge

^Very true.
It's hard to read big trees on bind sometimes. You read it right for the first few cuts and then it changes on the next cut.
I usually take a 2nd saw...and if that gets stuck, I borrow a 3rd one. :)

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what you can do is take 2 bars & the 3 pre-sharpened chains, so if you get a bar jam just unbolt from the tree and mount up another new bar & chain to cut your self out

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

what you can do is take 2 bars & the 3 pre-sharpened chains, so if you get a bar jam just unbolt from the tree and mount up another new bar & chain to cut your self out

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Yup. Only carry a extra power plant if you are getting paid, and too far from repair, like in heli-access ops. Bars and chain are easy to carry.

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

what you can do is take 2 bars & the 3 pre-sharpened chains, so if you get a bar jam just unbolt from the tree and mount up another new bar & chain to cut your self out

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Sure. What's the 3rd chain for?

Or just leave it in there like King Arthur's sword.

Its just another pre-sharpened chain in case you rock #1 and #2

Rock #3 and you will be kneeling in a snow bank with yer file

and rolling joints eh

Got it.
Unless you bring 4 chains.

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Originally Posted by Timberridge

^Very true.
It's hard to read big trees on bind sometimes. You read it right for the first few cuts and then it changes on the next cut.
I usually take a 2nd saw...and if that gets stuck, I borrow a 3rd one. :)

Btw, I have a pre-Xtorq 372XP and it's a real fine saw. I can recommend it if you find a good used one. Very smooth running compared to some smaller saws I had/have. I've actually considered selling it though because I don't have acres of forest to deal with anymore and it's overkill for smaller stuff, but it's my favorite saw.

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Or it rolls on you in a way you didn’t expect and you get a body part squished.

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Originally Posted by BCMtnHound

Yup. Only carry a extra power plant if you are getting paid, and too far from repair, like in heli-access ops. Bars and chain are easy to carry.

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All my ski hill cutting was hiking the only saw i own up or down HBM but if I have a problem I don't lose a 500 $ day like a pro's does

So the oiler on my 261 quit oilin in the middle of a run do i stop cutting or just grit my teeth?

Keep cutting while manualy pouring oil on the chain so I had to buy a new chain/ new bar and fix the oiler but i still made my 3 tickets but I made less $$ that day

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Originally Posted by Timberridge

Got it.
Unless you bring 4 chains.

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maybe you wana lay off the dope ?

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Originally Posted by oldnew_guy

If you are ready to spend $1000+ for a new one either one will do the job I’m sure.

Be aware that with that power to pull through big logs also comes more power to fuck you up (tip kick back, cutting through things faster than you think, etc). If you don’t have experience already, do some reading or work with someone on how to buck large down trees. You can get yourself into some nasty situations if you aren’t reading the tree right.

Reading bind, offside cut first, wedging, sequence of cuts, boring, etc…

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This is a big concern of mine. I’ve done some light duty work around my property with my small husqy - dropped a few trees and bucked em up but nothing major. I’m generally a ask questions later and have a beer kinda guy and things have always worked out for me, but I know this is don’t fuck around territory. Been down some major YouTube holes and will likely have a very experienced buddy help as well.


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While a healthy respect for any chainsaw is merited, don’t think the danger increase is linear with a larger saw. All the same safety precautions, stance, PPE, etc apply. And a cut from a small saw is just as nasty as one from a larger saw (spoken from experience here, but thankfully from the position as 1st aid attendant).

It is even more telling with felling larger trees. Believe it or not, the stats for faller injuries in BC forestry is greater with smaller trees than larger ones. Big trees have more holding wood, can be easier to wedge, are less affected by a breeze, and their size elicits more unconscious respect. Smaller trees are more influenced by wind, pushed by other trees when they fall, twist easier, holding wood and cuts have less tolerance given the surface area, etc, etc. I’d way rather fall a 1.5m DBH Doug Fir than a bunch of <30cm lodgepole pine.

And buddy system is always advisable.

my girl and I 30 years ago trail crewing

Attachment 430733

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Originally Posted by BCMtnHound

While a healthy respect for any chainsaw is merited, don’t think the danger increase is linear with a larger saw. All the same safety precautions, stance, PPE, etc apply. And a cut from a small saw is just as nasty as one from a larger saw (spoken from experience here, but thankfully from the position as 1st aid attendant).

It is even more telling with felling larger trees. Believe it or not, the stats for faller injuries in BC forestry is greater with smaller trees than larger ones. Big trees have more holding wood, can be easier to wedge, are less affected by a breeze, and their size elicits more unconscious respect. Smaller trees are more influenced by wind, pushed by other trees when they fall, twist easier, holding wood and cuts have less tolerance given the surface are, etc, etc. I’d way rather fall a 1.5m DBH Doug Fir than a bunch of <30cm lodgepole all day long. Also, never doubt that extra power means less fighting with the saw to cut through problem wood while technique with smaller saws tend to deteriorate when you have to work it harder to accomplish the same task.

But yes, running saw alone is not like touring alone. The Buddy system is proven to decrease negative outcomes almost every time.

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Good points.

Personally always found the big saw and big bar were less forgiving of mistakes than say a 260 series stihl, often because running a saw that big can be seriously tiring and switching between a short bar to a long bar always had an adjustment period. Also found it was easy to do things like cut right through holding wood because the saw is cutting so much faster, especially when you aren’t pulling a 28-32” bar length of chain through the wood.

Falling was certainly easier in the big stuff often times, but bucking big logs can be tricky if they aren’t just laying on the ground. There can be a lot of weight moving around even if you are just limbing it and not paying attention.

500i looks like a neat saw as well.

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Originally Posted by oldnew_guy

Good points.

Personally always found the big saw and big bar were less forgiving of mistakes than say a 260 series stihl, often because running a saw that big can be seriously tiring and switching between a short bar to a long bar always had an adjustment period. Also found it was easy to do things like cut right through holding wood because the saw is cutting so much faster, especially when you aren’t pulling a 28-32” bar length of chain through the wood.

Falling was certainly easier in the big stuff often times, but bucking big logs can be tricky if they aren’t just laying on the ground. There can be a lot of weight moving around even if you are just limbing it and not paying attention.

500i looks like a neat saw as well.

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Fatigue, lack of familiarity, and focus/complacency are the words I catch in your post. All are risk elements when running any saw. And yes, mass and power will certainly compound the consequences, but again, I think the scale is not linear. But we are splitting hairs. Running saw is one of the most hazardous things a person can do, likely just below driving on a NA highway ;)

well all the models of a given brand are the same color so the average user has no clue what the purpose was of the saw they are running cuz the model numbers don't really line up to mean anything to the average user unless they look them up and nobody does that

they just say I got a bla-bal-bla and it cuts real good

so unless one knows better how much does the saw cost is the biggest parameter when it comes to buying a saw

IMO buy an industrial grade saw if you plan to do much cutting

and don't get hurt

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Originally Posted by oldnew_guy

Good points.

Personally always found the big saw and big bar were less forgiving of mistakes than say a 260 series stihl, often because running a saw that big can be seriously tiring and switching between a short bar to a long bar always had an adjustment period. Also found it was easy to do things like cut right through holding wood because the saw is cutting so much faster, especially when you aren’t pulling a 28-32” bar length of chain through the wood.

Falling was certainly easier in the big stuff often times, but bucking big logs can be tricky if they aren’t just laying on the ground. There can be a lot of weight moving around even if you are just limbing it and not paying attention.

500i looks like a neat saw as well.

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I do a lot of falling with my 261s, but the couple of guys I call on for bigger and more complex jobs have both recently upgraded to the 500i. These guys spend their summers as danger tree fallers on wildfires, and apparently most pro fallers around here are doing the same. I got to play with one, and the power to weight ratio and acceleration have to be experienced to be believed. When they come out with a 50cc version, I’ll be buying one.

Let’s see if this link works.
https://www.facebook.com/story.php?s...&id=1255713230

I got more love for the 500i, with a caveat. Our shot crew started running them last year and we have fully switched over to them as our primary line cutting saws. They're light and powerful and require very little messing around. Sharpen, clean the air filter, change the fuel filter and spark plug at the end of the season, done. They just sing all the time. They all have 28" bars. We tried one with a 36 and a Barkbox muffler cover as a falling saw, it got through big softwood trees but was pretty slow. We have 661s for big falling saws, they are considerably faster.

The caveat for 500i's: If you're cutting stuff that creates lots of fine particulates, like rotten wood or juniper or especially on fires or burned trees with the bark still on, the stock air filter set up won't keep fine particles out. I think it's partially the o-ring in the middle not sealing tightly, and talking to mechanics partly the newer style filters not being as good. We switched to max flow filters and so far so good. Our 661s came with the same filter but had max flows on from new, and they're great but they also see considerably less use than the 500s.

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Originally Posted by claymond

I got more love for the 500i, with a caveat. Our shot crew started running them last year and we have fully switched over to them as our primary line cutting saws. They're light and powerful and require very little messing around. Sharpen, clean the air filter, change the fuel filter and spark plug at the end of the season, done. They just sing all the time. They all have 28" bars. We tried one with a 36 and a Barkbox muffler cover as a falling saw, it got through big softwood trees but was pretty slow. We have 661s for big falling saws, they are considerably faster.

The caveat for 500i's: If you're cutting stuff that creates lots of fine particulates, like rotten wood or juniper or especially on fires or burned trees with the bark still on, the stock air filter set up won't keep fine particles out. I think it's partially the o-ring in the middle not sealing tightly, and talking to mechanics partly the newer style filters not being as good. We switched to max flow filters and so far so good. Our 661s came with the same filter but had max flows on from new, and they're great but they also see considerably less use than the 500s.

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Interesting. Good info and I’ll have to keep that in mind for next fire season for the 500. Didn’t have many fires in my area of work this summer so mostly project cutting/falling and danger tree falling, etc.. I’ve actually been shocked at how little dust gets even to the filter. always used with a 28” but did use a 36” for one standing dead old growth spruce and it worked great.

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Originally Posted by claymond

I got more love for the 500i, with a caveat. Our shot crew started running them last year and we have fully switched over to them as our primary line cutting saws. They're light and powerful and require very little messing around. Sharpen, clean the air filter, change the fuel filter and spark plug at the end of the season, done. They just sing all the time. They all have 28" bars. We tried one with a 36 and a Barkbox muffler cover as a falling saw, it got through big softwood trees but was pretty slow. We have 661s for big falling saws, they are considerably faster.

The caveat for 500i's: If you're cutting stuff that creates lots of fine particulates, like rotten wood or juniper or especially on fires or burned trees with the bark still on, the stock air filter set up won't keep fine particles out. I think it's partially the o-ring in the middle not sealing tightly, and talking to mechanics partly the newer style filters not being as good. We switched to max flow filters and so far so good. Our 661s came with the same filter but had max flows on from new, and they're great but they also see considerably less use than the 500s.

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from what i've read cleaning an airfilter is just another maintenance item that most folks ignore

This Stihl sharpener makes it pretty damn easy. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8fdaad09e6.jpg

I’m strangely attracted to this sawyer.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/ClSbjnNDHn5/

“strangely”?

dude, she’s fkn hawt