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I molded a 26 Pro Tour today in my 25.5 shell. It doesn't seem too long. One foot seems perfect, the other is just slightly loose in the heel. I'm going to ski them and see how they feel. I also have a Tour Wrap on the way, so I'll probably mold those as well and compare.
Anybody sitting on some ZGTP 26.5 shells?
I decided this is the boot I’m going for, 27.5 was about a 2.5cm fit, figure I can punch out a 26.5 far enough in the forefoot to get a good fit.
Does anybody know if the 22/23 ZGTP has an updated liner? Mine says CAS and unmolded is noticeably more usable than the one that came with my green scouts. Trying to decide if it's worth molding - "molding" the old one amounted to zero perceptible change.
One of my pin inserts is a bit mangled (from the top). Should I be concerned? Anything I can do? Fifth season with them I think..
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You'll be concerned when it falls off mid-kick turn on a 35 degree icy ridgeline. Get a new pair.Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyp
Probably in here somewhere, but if these are a little tight over the instep, is there much room to be made? I assume you can't do much to make room other than heat mold the liner? Width wise I'm pretty close and I'm sure I could punch a bit there.
I believe you can grind the boot board a tiny bit
All the standard methods are viable - grind the bootboard, thin the footbed, trim the elastic out of the liner, put foam over your instep and heat the instep area with a heat gun, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
How are these on punching for length? I'm between sizes as with most boots, don't really want to size up but want to be able to do big days. Feet are right at 289/290mm according to a verifyt scan. Morton's toe is probably the biggest issue.
I wear a size 11 street shoe but size down to a size 26.5 in the Cochise Pro 130 and Zero G Tour Scout because of having a very narrow heal/ankle.
I need to create space in the sixth toe and front of both boots. The Cochise definitely has more plastic to work with, but between punching and grinding I have enough space in the Zero Gs. I thought about going a size larger in the Zero Gs for long days but I'm really glad that I didn't.
What size are you trying to fit into? 28.5 should be no problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by bean
The Zero G shells punch fine for length if you have the right tools and technique - the usual caveats apply, namely you can only go as far as you binding(s) will allow. If you plan to use any non-tech or hybrid binding, you have to watch for conflict with the toepiece housing; if you are using a tech binding you have to watch for the toe knocking the lever out of lock mode while touring.
I am giving up on my 26.5 0g scouts. i think the liners have 1 day and I put on the strap from the downhill boot which is a big improvement. They look pretty new except for a bit of crampon scuffing on the forefoots.
Would happily trade for the next shell size up if someone wanted to go the other way.
Anyone know of a 29.5 pair sitting around looking for a new home?
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I think I’m giving up on my ZGTP’s after 3 years of trying to make them work.
They’ve never been all that comfortable for me, nor have they skied particularly well. I could be in the wrong size (went to a different fitter).
Any boots people would suggest checking out instead? I ski a 25.5 Promachine 130 with a few liner modifications but no shell punches (maybe a 8-12mm shell fit?) - they fit amazingly for resort. My ZGTPs are 26.5’s and probably have a 15-18mm fit.
I’ve got a fairly skinny ankle, average-ish width. High instep. Lay some recommendations on me.
Tried a different liner?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bamski
Swapping my ZGPT liner out for the Nordica Strider liners completely changed how the boots fit and ski. The original liner is a piece of crap. This was also the view of the two best bootfitters in Chamonix (and arguably Europe too).
That's been the consensus here. But just curious, what do you consider the best bootfitter in Cham?
Jules Mills at Sanglard. I've gone around the houses a bit, if you want more info, pm me. Would prefer not to slag people off on the interweb!Quote:
Originally Posted by ex-powderbroker
I’ve gone to my local boot fitter and tried tour wraps, shims, spoilers, booster straps, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliBrit
The boot either feels vague and a bit sloppy, or crushing (if I add shims).
Just doesn’t seem to fit me right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bamski
id start with the right size boot.
Guess this is the tricky question for me - my 25.5 boot is _snug_. I live in BC and tour a mix of slackcountry and 10+ hour slogs in cold weather. A friend of a friend lost toes last year due to boot issues.
I’ve always just followed my fitter’s advice on sizing, and they seemed keen on the 26.5 for my touring shoes.
Wearing a performance fit is fine when you can get to a lodge to warm your feet up relatively quickly, but it’s a bit daunting when you’re somewhere off an FSR. Maybe I could size down in a boot with a bit more of a generous instep? Seems like my options are a bit limited there.. Hawx Ultras?
Hawx ultras are one of the tightest insteps in the game, but the shell mold can make a big difference with those. Maybe try the Hawx Prime. I would suggest trying the Dynafit Radical as they have a more forgiving instep but the heel is also pretty wide in those. Dalbello Lupo's and Roxa R3 are probably worth trying as well.
The instep itself is not that low on the Hawx Ultra, but the cuff circumference is very small (it hits the front of the ankle if you have an oblong-shaped ankle, but not the actual intermediate cuneiform). Because of this, people with tall insteps have a problem getting in the boot but once on, it's fine (especially if you heat mold it with foam over the cuneiforms). That also makes it the best fit for a narrow ankle. If he's in a 98mm boot now, the Radical Pro will feel like a boat. Lupo ankle is huge, Roxa R3 fit is much like the Zero G fit but the walk mode is pretty lame if you tour much.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benneke10
PS You can raise the instep in the Zero G with your foot and a heat gun - heat the shell in the instep area as much as possible without melting the soft QuickInstep plastic; wear gloves and hold the buckle out of the way. Put foam over your instep and a sock over it all, put the boot on and buckle it moderately tightly then continue to heat the instep carefully. You should be able to raise the instep by a few mm. Alternately (or in addition) you can grind the bootboard in the midfoot and/or thin your footbed. As for skiing, I felt the stiffness was fine but the boot was a bit too upright for my taste - I ski them with a shim but take it out for skinning as they get knocked off anyway. If you're trying to compare the performance of your touring boot with your sized down Promachine, good luck.
I’ve had 25.5 in all touring boots for 20 years and had to go down to 24.5 for the ZGTP, fwiw. Alpine boots (Lange LVs) are 24.5. So, if you “sized up” from 25.5 alpine for 26.5 zgtp I’m not surprised it’s too big
Sort of, kind of my experience too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyski