Printable View
If I didn’t already have a TCR and TCX, I would have bought a Revolt for my only drop bar bike. Two wheel sets and I’d be set for anything short of a criterium race, which I don’t do anymore anyway. Revolt geo is way better than my very tall TCX cyclocross geometry, but I don’t care enough to switch. I do think the CRUX geo is really solid looking and a bunch of buddies love them for similar purpose as Revolt.Quote:
Originally Posted by buttahflake
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very fair.Quote:
Originally Posted by buttahflake
I have a Giant/LIV Brava Carbon Frame that’s been ridden 10x. It could be sold cheap.
I need to check the size, I believe it’s a Med LIV, so I think 5’5” to 5’9”
I can post a picture if someone is interested.
Giant definitely nailed it with the Revolt. It's such an easy one to recommend.
If a person is between frame sizes based on height... size UP or DOWN when:
1. Long arms and legs, short torso?
2. Short arms and legs, long torso?
1: upQuote:
Originally Posted by summit
2: down
I was googling and literally just read the opposite of that. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I suppose the answer might be different for road vs mountain bikes. I can't really comment on road bike sizing.Quote:
Originally Posted by summit
At least for mountain bikes, I'm long legged / long armed, and almost always prefer to size up. And the few mountain bike companies that offer sizing recommendations that consider arm / leg length seem to agree. And the general rule would be that the higher your ape index, the more inclined you should be to size up.
A bigger mountain bike is longer and more stable, so the trick is being able to move your body around on it enough to still keep it maneuverable. Someone with short arms and legs isn't going to be able to move around as easily - their "biological suspension" has less travel. A person of the same height with longer arms and legs will have an easier time getting off the side of the bike and moving fore and aft in the cockpit.
I brought my bike to the shop. They put a new GX Eagle cassette and chain on. My rear hub is a DT Swiss 240. It used to be pretty silent. Now it is making a pretty loud buzzing sound. Is that anything to worry about?
I'm getting ready for a race on Saturday. 25 miles, 5,000 vert. Wondering if anyone has any thoughts on the Rekon Race (818 grams) vs Ground Control (867 grams) for a front tire? I've never ridden the Ground Control but I have one in the garage. Course will be loose and dusty. I'm a good downhiller but don't try and make up too much time on descents. I'd prefer to take it a bit easy and avoid crashes/flats instead. Just wondering if anyone has thoughts on the traction v rolling resistance on these two.
The issue with sizing down for long legs/short torso is that you’ll end up having a big saddle to bar drop, which could put you in a too-aggressive position. May be able to correct for that by switching to a higher rise stem.Quote:
Originally Posted by summit
Sizing up gets the front end higher, to match the higher saddle height your long legs will require. But you’ll need to put on a shorter stem.
But maybe more importantly than deciding size is to look at the geometry of the bike to see if it matches your proportions. For example, a Cannondale SuperSix has a significantly higher stack and shorter reach then a Canyon Ultimate, so would better suit someone with long legs/short torso (or just someone looking for a less aggressive position).
I just came across these guys recently:
https://www.myvelofit.com/about-sizing
Haven’t tried it out yet, but looks intriguing. Bike sizing is free, bike fit has a few different price options.
Edit: Apparently in more normal sizes a Canyon is run of the mill geometry - I’d be an XL, and at that size it is long/low relative to others.
In middle of the size range, C’dale is still on the high stack/short reach end of the spectrum, Specialized Tarmac would be on the low stack/long reach end.
Also for long legs/short torso it can be worth looking at ‘endurance’ models depending on your needs. They’ll have the higher stack/shorter reach.
I'd choose a Ground Control front over a Rekon every time. GC is a pretty good tire.
IME Ground Control is a LOT more flat resistant, and has significantly better control/traction than the Recon Race. I don't know much about your conditions, but for pretty much any riding I've done, I'd chose the Ground Control as a front for anything with significant descents.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shredeagle
I feel like with the Ground Control you get more control/grip than you'd expect, and less of a loss of efficiency. You'll still notice it rolling faster than the Rekon, for sure, but for me at least, I've been really impressed at how quick that tire feels while still riding really well. And it's definitely more durable.
I’m no dentist, so maybe not your best answer, but here’s my $0.02Quote:
Originally Posted by Shredeagle
Your hub is virtually indestructible. Don’t lose sleep over this.
Guessing the shop monkey popped off the freehub when trying to remove the old cassette (easy to do). Dirt was introduced, so he did a routine 90 second wipe down before adding a very thin layer of over priced grease (as recommended by DT). Previously, it had loads moar grease, which is great if you want to sacrifice a tiny bit of spinny for heaps of stealth.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Whenever I lube my DT240 hubs I feel like it is louder than I remember. Then I go ride it and I barely hear it.
Sweet. Thanks dudes! Just giving in to some paranoia and making sure the bike is ready to race. I didn't want a preventable mechanical to ruin a few months of hard work.
DT hub will sound louder in the work stand after a fresh service, but quieter on the trail under load.
Similar question: I have a DT Swiss 350 hub and its sound is whir-WHIR-whir-WHIR. Like alternating quiet-louder that varies with speed. Is this just more grease packed into one side?
Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums
I have a tricky one: I have stupid long legs for my height (5’8”, 33 inseam) , but relatively short arms and torso. Until really long droppers showed up, if a frame fit my legs, it would be waaaay too long. If it fit my reach, it would be way too small.Quote:
Originally Posted by summit
Open it up and look. It's a tool free systemQuote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Mine does that too. Let me know what you find and then I'll delve into mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
They do that. Just a sign of tolerances being less than perfect. Add grease, make quieterQuote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
That's a tougher question than it used to be.Quote:
Originally Posted by summit
In the past, I would agree with Toast, standover clearance was a primary issue. Short legs meant size down.
Current slacked out/long reach geometry has made things a little less black and white. Reach is now the big factor. It depends more on the torso and arm combo than leg length.
Most manufacturers have brought standover down to reduce it's effect.
Also, seat angle comes into the equation since that affects actual reach.
More than ever, it's important to get on the actual bike if you're a tweener.
I have a buddy with that same issue. I did two custom builds for him and it was tough.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Like you said, long travel droppers have been a savior for him. On the other side his love of 175mm cranks has made low BB height the devil. :nonono2:
My 240 does that too. When I opened it up to re-grease, the alternating sound didn't change but the whole thing got significantly quieter. I kinda miss the old sound--maybe I need to go in and wipe off some excess grease.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Thought it could be a slightly bent axle or something, but I think it is just tolerances.
All the 350s/240s I've ever heard do that. It's no big deal.