Yep. I had the same for a 160/140mm bike. Likely fewer rocks but rarely had issues.
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This stuff is highly personal. Most of my friends are Double Down casings, some with inserts. I run EXO/EXO+ at around 22psi rear and have minimal issues, granted I'm light at 150ish but... ???
I run the same pressure on the hardtail and trail bike, same as my bigger "Enduro" bikes. Ride the HT less aggressively so I guess it evens out.
Gonna be looking at the lightest weight insert I can find to try in the back but a Double Down casing will be the same weight gain.
My Lezyne digital floor pump reads the same as the Lezyne digital mini gauge, Milwaukee 12v inflator, and Jaco dial gauge.
You guys just need better gauges. Prob take a look into the Tool Time thread for some inspiration.
I've gotten two punctures with an insert on my gravel bike. Both times I was able to stick a glueless patch on the inside of the tire and re-seat and inflate it and continue riding. Normally I would just try a plug first but these were dumb handmade challenge tires and sealant was spraying between the casing and glued on tread so I couldn't really get a plug in there. Also the first time I realized I'd forgotten my multi tool so I couldn't take the wheel off and that was my only option and it worked.
The other option is that the insert lives in the forest now and you put a tube in there. But it depends on the insert. I have a tubolight sl so it's pretty easy to deal with. Cush cores and heavier casing tires are much more of a hassle. I assume an insert is going to make most punctures more likely to take a plug vs a big pinch cut at the bead at least.
My topeak gauge reads the same as the other couple of topeak gauges i've tried so I stick with those. The cheap cannondale floor pump is pretty close to them too by my lezyne digital pump with a fancy silca chuck reads like 3-4psi higher, so that's annoying. Anyway, with a new tire I start with what I think will be about right and then adjust from there, and then once I have it figured out then I have a number to set them to on my gauge every time.
I’ve ridden out flat with Tannus Tubeless inserts twice now, and both times I was able to ride several miles without issue. It wasn’t fun, but the inserts kept the tire on the bead, and the insert and wheel were fine for reuse afterwards.
I have never flatted with cushcore pro, but I’d be shocked if riding one of those out flat didn’t go similarly.
I've ridden out with cushcore pro. It's fine, as long as the ride out is mostly downhill. I wouldn't want to do much of a climb on a flat / insert tire.
Also, this thread jinxed me. Started running an exo+ rear a week ago. Got my first flat of the season tonight. Guess I'll be going back to DD or heavier.
I flatted the rear with DD and Cush Pro a couple years ago in a race. Perfect sharp rock cut the sidewall huge. Was able to finish the very long (19 minute) enduro stage and somehow miraculously MOVED UP two positions in the overall. I swear I just pedaled even more than I would have cause I was pissed and I had insane grip in that flat rear. Tire was done but the rim was fine. Without the insert I would have been toasted. Walking down the super long stage. Dead last.
Says the ex pro, aka captain smooth. :D
Or, my somewhat controversial take, without the insert you may not have slashed the sidewall in the first place.
I’m with toast. I hate inserts and prefer the ride of a heavier casing tire. Having said that, if you’re gonna run an insert, run one heavy/burly enough to ride out on cause carrying a sealant soaked insert out is the pinnacle of annoying shit.
Yeah, it's a new one. And I'd agree that it's more supportive than the old / original exo+, but it's still a good bit less burly than a DD. I was doing alright with ~25-26 psi in it (per my digital bontrager pump), whereas I'd usually go 23-24 psi with a DD.
The flat I got appears to have just been from a pointy rock stabbing its way through, so it might have just been unlucky.
I've been running a newer Exo+ on the front of my bigger bike for all riding outside of the bike park. So far I've had good luck with that - no flats while running 23-24 psi.
X2
In fact, I'll go you one farther.
I weigh 180lbs. I live in the sharp and steep of northern NM. I race enduro upper mid pack. My "riding style" has been called the equivalent of George Foreman's boxing style- None.
("Which one da referee? Cus Ima kill the other MFer")
In short, I'm a basher.
My current tires of choice are Tioga Edge22 2.5 front / Kenda Nev2 2.4 rear, both sub 1000 grams with only a thin Huck Norris (rear only). 23PSI/28PSI
To many here, that would put me in the "I'm an Idiot" thread.
But I've had no issues.
Pick a pressure and be a dick about it.
OR
Pick a pump and be a dick about it.
OR
Pick a gauge and be a dick about it.
I fell that as long as you have consistency and adjust your pressure from your “known constant” your good to go.
All my Lezyne pumps are within 2psi at 80psi.
And my Toepeak and PRO hand held gauges also confirm those numbers.
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I got 2 or 3 of those 25$ beto floor pumps from MEC, they were so cheap buy a few eh
I think MEC sourced those from china cuz i've seen the same pump with cool paint/ logo of a chi-chi brand for more than double the price
so is the guage accurate ? well if I only use one pump(s) and they are consistent one might also ask does anyone really know what time it is?
I duno but they seem consistent and red is faster
On the subject of riding on a flat with an insert, for reasons still unknown, my rear tire went flat and wouldn’t hold air this evening, so I got another opportunity to ride 5 miles on a flat with Tannus Tubeless. I kept it mellow and slow, and it everything worked out relatively fine.
I’m suspecting rim tape failure, and kind of remember it being marginal last time I swapped tires. I’m currently out, and need to buy more. Is Stan’s tape still the move, or is someone else making better tape these days?
I think the incidence of tape malfunction with inserts is higher. There's often more wrestling with the tire to shoehorn it onto the rim around the insert, and more aggressive use of tools. All of which increases the likelihood of damaging the tape.
Certainly avoidable if you've got your insert installation procedures dialed. But plenty of people (including myself) do not.
I've heard good things about whisky tape. I used MucOff last go round and it was OK.
Anyone have insights of if we will see a new Shimano drivetrain in the next few months?
Transmission seems “fine” but it’s really not what I need / want in a group.
Dream world would be an updated XTR drivetrain we’re on year 5 of the current group. Thinking of updating my XC bike.
My Tannus rear seems to take a while to seal up usually. Even when doing an installation without the insert first to let the sealant do its thing and then installing the insert I've had it leak maybe 5psi per ride and then one day lose all air overnight at home. Submerging it showed no leaks and my tape job was good. Deflating completely, releasing both beads then reseating got it holding air well for a few rides then same thing again. I searched online and found someone saying let all the air out, ride around the block then reinflate. That completely fixed it for me, I guess it lets the sealant get where it needs to be.
Side note: Tannus is fairly easy to put a tube inside on the trail - a snapped spoke pierced my rim tape last year and I tried it rather than carry the slimy thing home, worked fine.
If you do need new tape I'm on this - it's Tesa but not advertised as such. €11 shipped for 50m so about a quarter of the price of branded stuff and works well for me. Just make sure to pull it very tight when installing. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003780542134.html
Careful with your levers when installing a setup with inserts too. I gave up on the Cushcore lever because its shape and easy leverage makes it far too easy to just muscle the last part of the bead on and damage the tape. Small hooks like Schwalbe's flat levers, Lezyne power levers or the newer Park 4.2s (not the old 1.2) are much safer.