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The bearing shouldn't be tight on the steerer tube. There's a wedge shaped compression ring that snugs up the contact between the steerer tube and the bearing. You just need to break that compression ring free and then everything will be loose. Smack the top of the steerer tube down with a rubber mallet, then push it back up to loosen the compression ring.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lvovsky
Thanks. I’ll try to separate compression ring and the bearing next time I get into it!Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
As mentioned above, a smack with a rubber mallet usually separates the compression ring.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lvovsky
Here are 2 images to help better understand the compression ring.
Attachment 464560
Attachment 464561
Anyone have experience with a Raceface Trace rear hub?
My bike came with one and the freehub seems messed up...Google says the hub is a POS. After a few rides the pedals spin when the bikes coasting and I'll get chain suck if I pedal backwards. Also the freehub sounds squeaky at certain parts of the pedal stroke. I was thinking it was maybe a bad seal? Everything looks clean when I pull it apart.
I've pulled and re-greased the freehub a few times but the problems come back after a few rides. Not really getting better or worse, just requires pulling & re-greasing the freehub every 3-5 rides to keep it running smooth. Annoying for sure...
I had two wheels with Race Face Trace hubs. One set was fine (HG freehub), the other had a disaster of an XD freehub - really bad seals on the freehub body, tiny little coil springs on the 3 pawls. The little springs cracked and the pawls didn't engage.
IIRC Race Face updated the Trace after the version I had. So you might have a different issue than I did.
Might want to pull the axle or check if broken. Internet indicates that is a problem. Assuming you have a washer between FH and hub body? Lighter or less grease, new springs or perhaps try an oil as a test to see if grease was to thick.
This one is a Microspline. I believe it is the most recent model. The free hub has 4 pawls.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Also most pawl freehubs don't work well with grease if it's thicker. I think easton/rf calls for oil in most of their hubs or at least really thin/light grease like slick honey etc.
1- Check for Broken Axle, they had issues with this.
2-They also had issues with seals causing too much drag, and in some cases the seal is being pulled into the pawls. Try pulling the seal, and reinstall the freehub to see if it runs fine without the seal. At least you'll know if it the seal issue.
3.reach out to RaceFace, they are good with they customer service.
As for oil or grease, this is a highly debated topic on what to use. I recommend oil on pawls and springs. A grease needs to be super light to not gum up the pawls.
Mavic's OEM free hub oil was just 5w mineral oil. I use Shimano Brake mineral oil on most pawls. Dumonde Tech Freehub Oil is the choice in many shops, but very specific. Don't use chain lube, as most have waxes in them.
IF you want to go the grease route, I would suggest you make a custom thinned out version by combining your lightest grease and some triflow (or mineral oil).
I've been using a mix of Phil Oil and Park green grease for years. It's sticky and about the weight of Slick Honey. It seems to work well in pawl FHs and in DTs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
I’ve been using slick honey. I’ll try oil next.
I haven’t heard of the axle issues so I’ll check that out.
I was thinking that drag was coming from the seal, so sounds like I’ll be pulling that too and see if it relieves the drag.
Thanks all!
Phil's Tenacious is my go-to for pawls.
Searched and can’t find the right answer. Running 2.4 DHR on the rear of a hardtail. DT 1700 rims. I keep smashing the rim. 25psi. I assume I want an insert? Which one? Less weight is better. Thanks!
The DT Swiss “special grease” is Molykote TP-42
I’ve been running a Tubolight HD in the rear cause I got tired of fixing dented rims. Pretty light, east install with Maxxis or Specialized eliminator I’m running now. Run about $40 shipped on eBay. Now I’m running about 20psi in the rear with straight rims and never a tire squirm. I like em.Quote:
Originally Posted by powcom
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Either an insert or a heavier casing DHR. Both will help. Both end up being similar weights (depending on what casing you go with, or what insert you go with).Quote:
Originally Posted by powcom
Personally, I prefer a heavier casing with no insert. I like how they ride better, the heavier casing provides better flat protection against poky things, and if you do get a flat, it's a whole lot easier to deal with on the side of the trail.
But the most important thing is that, regardless of whether you choose inserts or heavier tires, you stand by your decision and be a dick about it.
Yep - if you're running EXO at 25psi nobody is going to be surprised you're bashing the shit out of your rim, unless you weigh 110lbs soaking wet.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Also this.Quote:
Personally, I prefer a heavier casing with no insert. I like how they ride better, the heavier casing provides better flat protection against poky things, and if you do get a flat, it's a whole lot easier to deal with on the side of the trail.
And this most importantly.Quote:
But the most important thing is that, regardless of whether you choose inserts or heavier tires, you stand by your decision and be a dick about it.
:D
Thanks all. Not exo casing and 200# rider. Gonna try the dh casing first. I’m told I’ve got the dick part nailed down.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
How are you measuring pressure?
My floor pump reads 40 psi when my digital hand gauge (Topeak) reads 22 psi and my hand held analog gauge will read like 24 psi. The floor pump gauge also isn’t consistent…
I’m of the school of thought that everyone runs about the same tire pressure but measures differently. IE the people saying 35 psi in minions might actually be running the same effective pressure as people who say they run 20psi.
Rim damage on a hardtail at 25psi isn’t shocking though at 200lbs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by powcom
It's the seventh commandment of mountain biking: know thy pressure gauge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
I also found my Topeak digital gauge was reading 3-4 psi lower, and stopped using it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
My kids Bronson was clicking under load also. Not sure he solved it yet. My bike was creaking randomly and it was the hanger as well. Maybe the Transmission will solve these mystery hanger noises!Quote:
Originally Posted by Spencer123
Fair. You’re thinking the 7 year old floor pump that lives exposed, in the bed of my truck, for 5 months out of each year might not be accurate? It’s consistent and is the ride I like. Now you’re in my head though and will get a couple other data points just to know - I guess. I want to avoid a broken rear wheel 10 miles from a road. Toast seems right for a first try. Fiddle factor on inserts seems high if flatted on a trail and plugs don’t work. I suppose you just roll out though since you’ve got an insert?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
Consistent is totally fine.
On mine I just know roughly 40psi is the number in the floor pump but ideally I have the handheld gauge with me. Most floor pumps seem to read higher than gauges and even nice gauges are easily 10-20% variance. A handheld gauge is a good tool to own as it does avoid wheel damage and let the bike ride its best.
Quote:
Originally Posted by powcom
This is a bit overblown. I ride a 155/170mm bike with EXO at 23f 25r. I weigh 170 and go fast and live in a place with many rocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
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