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I don't think you can mitigate that ^^ i expect grips to kind of last a year IMEQuote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
what I do is rotate the grip on the bar to wear a different spot
I like the ODI slim profile with 2 rings on each grip cuz without the aluminium ring the grip ends get destroyed by hitting things or in the truck on its side
A buddy got it at launch for his ebike. I'm not sure how many miles he's at on it, but I'd imagine a few hundred at least - he rides every day. He's a big guy (~190-200 lbs) and is often pulling a trailer full of 50 lbs of digging tools. Like what others have said, he tells me sometimes the shifts are slow, but they're perfect every time. I definitely am sold on it for my ebike (currently running GX AXS on it, X01 AXS on my enduro bike), but am in no hurry for the enduro bike.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I haven't decided if I'll sell the GX AXS shifter/RD yet or keep it as backup. Part of me says I should keep it as backup for the X01, but another part says that one's lasted 2000+ miles with no issues, so no reason to. Plus if I do ever manage to destroy the X01, it'll give me an excuse to upgrade that one too.
You don't have to crash to get that, slapping bush?Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
IMO, one year is good and that is a good zone for the wear to happen. Sounds like good grip technique to me! Bar roll, not sure? Maybe try a couple different rolls, mainly for better overall position and bike feel? Grips are cheap consumables and it's always nice getting a new pair.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Minor drift... As long as you don't have the dreaded over gripping/death grip callouses, you should be good.
Here’s a bit of an obscure one… I have a 2017 Enduro Pro Carbon w/ SRAM cranks that I replaced the chainring on last season. Put on a Wolftooth Boost chainring, but it seems like the chain line is too far out, the shifting has never been great since the change (everything else got replaced at the same time) and I had to take off the chain guide due to drag. Do I need a non-Boost chainring even though the rear wheel is Boost?
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Was the BB/crankset replaced? Did you or whoever did the work put the BB spacers on correctly?Quote:
Originally Posted by grubbers
Crank is the same, no spacers on the bottom bracket.
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Seem to be a lot of 2021/2022 Stumpys for sale for cheap AF with good builds on PB. Like really cheap. Is there something I don't know about this bike? Seems like it would be a great trail/everyday bike and raceable on tamer tracks.
Word is they overproduced more than any other company when the factories got cranking again after Covid and the supply chain issues.
And I guess everyone is just trying to unload their 21/22s to get a 23? Brand new 23 Stumpy Evo down from $8900 to $6150. Almost cheap enough to justify buying new. Damn.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Is there any actual difference between the 21, 22, or 23 models?
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Just a word of advice from a few buddies on SJ Evos, they really are not progressive enough for coil, especially in mullet mode. The mullet mode makes the bike even more linear. So if you're eyeing one, plan on running air, unless you're going to really go nuts with like Cascade links etc.
Good to know. On a trail/pedal bike I would stay full 29er and air sprung for sure.
Edit to add: I didn't really realize the Evos were the longer travel versions. I would rather have the regular 130mm.
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Does anyone have a Hayes dominion bleed block and calipers that can post the dimensions so I can print myself one? I can’t find any Hayes stl files online and my Shimano one isn’t a great fit.
pics suck, sorry. lmk if you'd like me to take more pics, write down the dimensions, or just model the thing myself and send a file. Or put it in the mail.
What bike is this on and what's your riding position?Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
Might not be your problem, but when I get lazy on my XC bike - covering miles on smooth terrain - I tend to lock out my elbows and carry / resting weight on the outside of my hand instead of relaxing my elbows and holding the grip like a baseball bat. I squashed through a set of silicon grips in Portugal like this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I was going to answer your question, but looks like you beat me to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I would add that from my limited observation Specialized doesn't seem to have much relative value added to price jumps within model lines. When I bought my no frills Levos, every $2000 price increase would get about $500 in very slightly better components. In most examples, the underwhelming brakes, suspension, and wheels stayed the same as the price point went up. So I bought "cheap" and then upgraded. Good luck finding a premium Special Ed bike with the equivalent of Fox 38 fork, Saint brakes, and DT Swiss 1700 wheelset which I'd consider to be the benchmark for great but not premium/boujee
Thanks Norse I think I can get something close enough for home use from those. Impressed you still have dial calipers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norseman
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5948059Quote:
Originally Posted by carlh
The 2023 Stumpy Pro (not Evo) builds come pretty nicely spec'd for $6100. Nice enough that I would happy ride it as is and really not feel that I need to change/upgrade anything.
Gotta admit, between wheels, drivetrain, and dropper post, that's an impressive build for that price.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
I spent way more for my SB120 two years ago with not nearly as nice of a spec. That bike was fun, but still just a tad too XC for my daily driver.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
If I was single the Stumpy Pro at this price would already be in the mail on it's way to my door lol.
What's the difference between a progressive and linear *damper* (specifically rebound) tune? I ask because of the current line of RS shocks, the retail versions all have light compression, light rebound tunes. But several of the OEM tunes (Specialized, Santa Cruz) spec progressive rebound tunes.
I figure it means one of these 2 things:
a) the rebound shaft speed starts slow (for small shaft speeds) but ramps up in a curve shape for faster shaft speeds.
b) the adjuster knob starts out with smaller (compared to linear tune) rebound speeds, but the rate increases non-linearly the more clicks you open it. i.e. the difference between click 6-7 is much less than between 14-15.
Is it either of these, or something else entirely?
I have noticed (from using a data acquisition system) that for shocks both with linear and progressive rebound tunes, the rebound velocities as a function of travel are non-linear. The scatter plot graph for shock rebound looks roughly linear up until maybe 30-45% of travel, then the slope dramatically reduces. The fork rebound plot usually looks linear throughout travel. I see this across coil and air shocks, and various brands (Fox, RS, EXT). I assume the rebound shim stack is tuned in such a way so that on bigger compressions, the shock rebound speed is less so that the rider doesn't get pitched forward.
Was able to fix my brake issues with isopropyl alcohol and the crc de-sqeaket.
Attachment 463200
It's "a" - shaft speed affects how much damping is happening.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
I believe a progressive rebound setup will allow you to run faster rebound so it'll come back quicker from big hits while still being more controlled and avoiding top outs in the early portion of the travel. Depending on the bike's leverage curve, that may or may not be beneficial.