Husky’s have the electronic tune on the pro saw. My friend doesn’t like his and was just in the shop today for a part and asked the mechanic about them. He thinks husky is trying to put itself out of business with them
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Husky’s have the electronic tune on the pro saw. My friend doesn’t like his and was just in the shop today for a part and asked the mechanic about them. He thinks husky is trying to put itself out of business with them
Not all of the pro saws. The 395xp and 371xp are the same saws they have been making for a long time.Quote:
Originally Posted by cat in january
My grandpa with a McColluch 125 Pro c. 1980. I would love to have one, premium collectible now.
Attachment 419757
My dad 1999 taking the face out. Husky 395XP sitting to the right.
Attachment 419758
The last picture was “take your kid to work day.” I was 15 and not taking school too seriously. I helped my dad fall this tree. I was working on the back cut and the wedges shot out when it came off the stump. In the moment that the tree started falling, the wrong way, I decided I would take school more seriously and be the first to go to college. The tree made a spin and ended up going the right way down the hill.
not having a chain brake is dangerous, also heavy & slow so what you gona do with it ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
Around here people put the old saws on stumps as lawn ornaments in their front yard
It’s the best saw to loan that pesky neighbour who’s always asking to borrow your tools and is slow to return ‘em. Hey bud, here try this homelight- it was my father’s favourite saw! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Great photos there Hood26. In general we have smaller trees out East
That’s awesome. Yeah I really want one just for nostalgia and a wall hanger. Most the old Big Macs got turned into go carts.Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
XXXer, you aren’t wrong about the No chain brake being dangerous. They also vibrate like crazy. Grandpa had terrible carpal tunnel and when my dad and uncles started working he wouldn’t let them have one for that reason. They moved over to the Husky 2100, another insanely priced collectible now too. One uncle had to be difficult and for a Stihl just to be ornery. Grandpa hated Stihls and hated working on them even more.
Thanks Cat in Jan for the compliments. I will see what other old pics I can dig up. See if I can find any action shots of the 2 man’s my great uncle and grandpa ran in the 50s.
my skibro told me he thot chain brakes weren't necessary until that day he almost ate the bar ... went out and bought a modern saw with a chainbrakeQuote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
I sold my Stihl MS361 a couple of years ago for nearly what I paid for it in like 2005. My needs don't include a saw that big anymore.
I did want something small and easy, so I picked up the newest model Makita with the dual 18v batteries. It's absolutely perfect for my current needs. I cut down an 8" tree and broke up the trunk and limbs today and it didn't even flinch, and the batteries still show a full charge. It will be excellent for trail work, especially because it's much quieter than an ICE saw.
I’m kinda getting on the same train. Just wondering if the 10,14 or 16 makita will work best for my moderate homeowner needs.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
there are gas vs E chainsaw compro's on youtube that will show ya the difference and what to expect
Further testing shows that this thing is a beast. You can totally bury the 14" bar and it has enough power to keep going. I cut this ~26" log and halfway through another one on one set of 5AH batteries. This is a very uncommon use case, but that log was blocking one of my backyard gravel roads. I suspect 2 batts will be enough for a lot of regular downed tree clearing, but I'll prob bring a second set just in case (i have a lot of Makita tools so batts are plentiful).Attachment 419909Attachment 419910Attachment 419911Attachment 419912
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I just picked up the 16" and had it out today for a trial run. I made about 5 cuts through a couple large (~18-22") spruce logs and some big aspen. The tool stopped frequently in what i presume to be 'overheat' or 'overload' protection mode and killed the first round of batteries within maybe 15min. i put another set of batteries in and tool stopped so frequently with the two battery lights blinking (again, overload mode?) and i was done for today.
maybe the big logs are too much? i read somewhere that the guy was getting 100 cuts through smaller logs on a single set of batteries. based on this first test, i don't think this saw will meet my needs, which include frequent bucking up 12" or larger logs for splitting.
I’ve used a Milwaukee 18v saw to fall and limb a bunch. Even with the 12ah battery they just dont work that great for bucking. I’ll put a few on the ground with the battery saw and use my gas saw to buck them up.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmedslc
Gotta really make an effort to keep the battery saws running at high rpms cuz they just don't have the juice to recover the way icers do when you really get them deep into a log and bog em down
Agreed. But I’ve had much better luck than jmedslc with my Ego cs1800. On a single charge, I’ve managed to buck approximately 1/2 cord of dry red fir/tam 12-16” diameter on numerous occasions. Lately, I just set my wife loose limbing with the Ego saw while I do most of the felling and bucking with more powerful gas sawsQuote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser
That doesn't sound right to me. Something is off.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmedslc
Yeah, see my experiences with the (newer model?) of that Makita saw above. I cut for way longer than 15 mins in that story on one set of 5ah batteries.
Zero experience operating a battery saws. But the first thing I think of: is the chain sharp and properly tensioned?
have the same makita. it is fantastic for limbing. When i'm falling a bunch of trees with my wife she can limb and buck small stuff with that and ins't scared of it...she won't touch the gas saws.
Looking at the Ryobi 12" 18V for removing downed trees from trails... thoughts? 5 to 14in dead lodgepoles, some aspens...
yeah i thought one set 5ah batteries would last much longer than 15-20mins, but admittedly i had higher expectations and pushed it to its limit on the first day out. i got the makita cause i use makita tools and needed some batteries and the package with 4x5ah batteries, double charger and saw for $400 was a reasonable course of action to keep all the tools running here.
i am gonna hold onto the makita for now and continue using it for smaller limbing felling and quick jobs. i'm also gonna run a side by side comp with the dewalt. i'll just continue using the stihl gas saw for bucking the big logs.
no experience w ryobi, but neighbor says his EGO does better than my initial impressions of the Makita. of course their products have their own 56v system so it's not really apples to apples i guess. ie: EGO saw says equivalent to a 40cc gasser while makita=32cc.
anyway, always good to check in on this thread - lots of experience here!
I've used Ego and I have the Milwaukee. The Milw is better imo. I have a bunch of Milw tools so I use all the different Amp hour batteries depending on what I'm cutting. I only use it for mtn bike trail work, so I'm never cutting up fire wood, although I've cut for a few hours and I've ripped down long ones to flatten a log ride. The thing has been damn good, but definitely not the same balz as a gas powered. But the ease of electric is so nice.
The random sideways pic...idk
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9b6a515433.jpg
2001ish i bought a used Husquvarna Rancher 61. I used it to cut many cords of wood for my primary heat source for 16 years. It was mostly trouble free. The fuel line cracked in the tank and it picked up a bunch sawdust crap and plugged up the carb once. I took it apart, cleaned it out and bolted it back on. I went through a few chains, cleaned lots of bike trail with it but generally no maintenance.
5 years ago it wouldnt start. The spark plug boot had ripped and i figured my spark might be shorting to ground. New boot and new coil cost the same amount so i bought a coil. Still no start. Looking closely i noticed the carburetor fuel line barb was bent. I touched it and it broke. Try to find a replacement fuel line barb local small engine shops were fucking useless. "Nope, you can't buy that part, I'll sell you a carb for $100" i threw all the parts in a box and ignored my saw for years.
A couple weeks ago I finally decided i needed my saw so i ordered a new csrb for $28. I bolted it on and proceeded to flood my saw. I pulled the plug and introduced fire to dry things up, put it back together and it kicked on the next pull. 5 minutes later and a couple tweaks of the carb and my saw was sitting on the floor idleing like new.
Now its time to clean up some shit.
Woot!!!
I installed a carb kit and new air filter in my ms361 and retuned the carb. The saw has a modified muffler. I used this tinman’s saws video for guidance on how to tune a carb. It was amazingly helpful. Previously, I used less helpful text descriptions with short audio clips. I now realized that I’d previously been running too rich at both ends, full throttle and idle. Also feel pretty empowered to tweak the jets as the weather changes or in different wood type/size with less questioning of myself.
https://youtu.be/2j9JyA49cv8
Got an MS310 that cuts about two cords a year for winter heating purposes.
I sharpen my chains with a round file (properly sized) and flat file, but looking for a better (quicker) way. Anybody else like their sharpening tools and recommend their preferred process?
Cut about 1.5 so far this year, and my 3 chains are all dur for a sharpen.
i got a filing jig that does an awesume job but its not any faster just better, it would be hard to justify a sharpening machine for 2 cords of wood a year
Yeah fair enough. I know you canucks cut some big ass trees.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Guess ill just buy a 12 pack and go to town for Thursday Night Football.
The Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener is fast and accurate. Sharpens the chain and lowers rakers in one stroke and gets the angles right.
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Second that. It’s foolproof and quick.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
a buddy told us when he cut the big wood out on the coast they got 3 sharpened chains for every shift and never had to file in the woods but it was scary cutting downed stems 30ft in the air and he quitQuote:
Originally Posted by Percy Rideout
Cutting local ski runs up high the trees were not that big so I would just carry 2or 3 chains and swap them as needed cuz its faster than sitting in a snow bank filing a chain
then sharpen them at home while having a drink
No way is it worth fucking around swapping a chain instead of sharpening it. It takes about 11 minutes to sharpen a saw - 2 to roll a doobie, 5 to smoke it and 4 to file the saw.
If you're cutting standing or freshly dropped wood you should be able to cut a truckload without sharpening. If you're cutting skidded wood you'll probably need to sharpen often (once per log?). If you're driving your tip into the dirt or dont know how to file a saw you'll need a new chain every cord.
I learned to freehand sharpen about 30 years ago slashing runs at the ski hill for 4 summers. Then I heated my house with wood for 25 years and sold firewood for extra cash too many times so i got pretty fucking good at keeping my saw sharp. Typically I need 3 strokes per tooth and its razor sharp. If I tagged a rock, next sharpening one or 2 teeth might get 4 strokes and left a little gnarly. It's important to file them all the same. Same angle, same number of strokes, same pressure. I usually only hit the rakers once in a chain's lifetime.
I was walking up the road last week listening to someone cutting with his chainsaw and thinking it sounded dull, there was no chain bite causing the engine to actually work. Turned out to be an aquaintence, i was chatting and looking at the dust he had made and commented that it looked like his saw was dull. He pulled out a little grinder thing, proceeded to take off way too much metal and only half ass sharpen his chain. He didn't have a flat file and his rakers were too high. I shrugged.
Bought a cheap limbing saw used, but it’s leaking gas and can’t stay running. Cylinder looks good with manifold off. Guessing the ethanol ate the lines, so going to try replacing the fuel lines. Only $20 in so not a big gamble
Beaver gets it.
I don't have any passion for selling fire wood or heating my house,
I just wanted a sharp chain to cut ski run right now,
If one ain't good enough to free hand sharpen then one shoud use a jig and swap chains
X2.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
Although I'll admit that my freehand sharpening doesn't come out quite as good as when I use a file guide. If I freehand it a couple times, I'll use the guide the next time to tidy everything up and keep it cutting straight. I just use the little roller guides though - they're quick, simple, cheap, and don't take up much space in my pack.
I use the roller guides, too. When I duff my chain or hit metal and get some big nicks, I have my neighbor resharpen for $5. 5 minute walk to his shop. He’s a pro with a long client list. Restaurants, chefs, tree services, equipment rental companies all use him.
yeah I don’t know why these other dorks can’t just sharpen with a file and move onQuote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
no big deal