It's especially useful to have the butt shoot out the exact wrong way uncontrollably if the tree happens to settle back onto the back cut.
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Wedge? But in that vid, he was felling in direction of the lean
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A guy "who's been cutting his whole life" told me the angled back cut prevents the tree from sitting back and pinching your bar. When I asked if the lean of the tree and not the angle of your back cut would determine if the tree was going to sit back he just gave me a puzzled look and waved his hand at me.
Not defending. Does not make sense to me.
I somewhat follow the construction rules established by the city anytime I’m considering start times. 8am Mon-Sat and I have a self imposed start of 10am on Sun.
Sundown is fine for stop time
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Noise ordinance often dictates legal times for outdoor power tool use. At my in-laws, it’s like at 7pm, even I’m June and July when it’s light out until 9pm.
It looks like that ^^ one went completely sideways, so did you bang in a wedge or 2 opposite the notch to land it where you want?
the other pict you asked about looks to me like there isn't enough room to put these trees down which might be why you are getting leaners
That one ^^ twisted and spun on the hinge on the way down. It was being hugged by an oak a little more than I thought. I cut it off the hinge and butt and worked my way up the trunk to get it unstuck: big and shallow open face notch on top, back cut until it releases usually with a fairly thick hinge.
I’m thinning very thick Doug fit “sprouts” that have grown as an understory below pondo pine, incense cedar, and oak. Reducing biomass and bringing in some light. I’m leaving a few Doug firs where they are in an open canopy or are super wrapped up with an oak. About half to a third of the trees I’m cutting hang up because it’s so dense. I try to be strategic.
My main large leaner was a dead oak stem. I was inquiring about people’s techniques because I’ve read a few.
The technique I’ve been using a lot with the smaller tress I’m cutting with a little back/side lean that is keeping the trees from rocking back onto my bar, I’ve seen called the quarter cut technique. It’s worked really well for me.
I always hammered on the safety wedge when I was instructing or evaluating. It's a waste of time until its not. Keeping a 6" wedge in my back pocket to slam in the kerf with my hand saved me a few times and a nice tap with an axe is always a confidence booster that the tree is going where you want.
If you are seriously interested in timber falling methods you might see if you can find a copy of Professional Timber Falling by Douglas Dent.
The problem with hanging trees up is eventually you are going to stand one straight up as you work it down and have no idea where it is going next. Straight back at you, off the side? Who knows. Not to mention it is exhausting and awkward.
Much better to plan your overall falling operation and even learn to fall against the predominate lean to stay out of these situations. In your off the side of the stump picture you might have been able to drop it through the hole to the right of where it ended up with some creative wedging.
Wish I had a tree lot to thin, looks like fun.
Thanks. Ive heard of that book before and will check it out.
That quarter cut technique, I'm using a wedge.
That tree was sitting fell nicely in another oak in that picture. These smaller trees that get stuck, when they get near vertical with the butt in the ground, sometimes i knock the butt outward, decreasing the angle, and keep them moving outward until the tree is on the ground. I've definitely encountered the uncertainty of not knowing where the stuck tree will end up when it gets near verticle. I've been as mindful aas i can, and have utilized my escape routes.
As the density of trees decreases, less are hanging up. Initially, i made some "windows" for dropping many of them. That worked pretty well....
This years thinning is almost done. I'll still have a lot of bucking to do, several slash piles to chip, logs to split, woodshed to built, and river to jump in to cool off.
Anyway, back to collecting slash and raking some deep needle duff before river time!
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Every day from here out is closer to winter.
Attachment 239703
^ I have that same exact saw.
I’ve had that Rancher 55 for close to 20 years. One rebuild and it runs like a champ.
I wish I was better at sharpening the chain. Took a bit too much off the rakers this afternoon which caused it to bog down and heat up the wood/bar until I cut enough to start dulling the cutting edge. Probably burnt the chain enough to have to replace it for next season.
Mines about the same age. Only thing I've had to do was just now replace the fuel tank vent.
I never touch the rake and sharpen the cutting teeth (one or two strokes with the file) every tank.
http://en.oregonproducts.com/pro/pro...tFileGuide.htm
I started using one of these ^^ for a super sharp chain but its more of a shop tool
so I do 2 chains at home and just swap chains instead of trying to do it in the bush
no more wasting time sitting in a snow bank with a file
more time spent cutting with a sharper saw
Nice. But you must be better at swapping chains than I! Shoot I think it takes me longer to swap out than filing a 20" bar.
I wouldn't mind one of those at all. I'd have to assume a better file job would not only save cutting time, burn less fuel, be easier on your saw and give better chain life.
I rarely cut more than a tank in the field at once. My typical session consists of taking a tractor with a trailer out to wherever I'm cutting, cut a tank, throw it all on the trailer and park next to the splitter.
yup ^^ but how good is your file job, IME its pretty quick to turn the bar over/clean out the bar channel/swap the chain and you are going to need a new chain one of these days so why not have 2 or 3 ready to go ??
but if you put the chain on backwards it doesnt cut worth a shit eh :)
my buddy tony told me when he cut the big wood out on the coast the outfit he worked for did not allow chain filing cuz it took too much time to do a half ass file job so they just gave him 3 machine sharpened chains beginning of every shift
I don't even burn wood, my typical sesh is to hike down or get dropped on the ski run, cut as much wood as we can for 5 or 6 hrs until we get picked up and as soon as the saw gets turned off ... pop a couple of xtra strength Robaxecet
This thing splits sooooo much better than my regular maul. Granted this is a piece of ash but it is the butt. Took three swings to split it. Second swing it popped, third the halves flew apart.
Edit: With photo
Attachment 241826
So far I've done about 3 cords of hardwood (mostly oak) and 1.5 of Doug fir. About halfway done with my pile then it's back to cutting.Attachment 241834
For the past month, I’ve been mostly jumping in the river. I hurt my back picking up too many bigger trees and carrying/dragging them to the slash pile, instead of cutting them in half. Took two weeks to feel better. Lesson learned.... I have what looks like 20-30hrs worth of bucking and splitting (with hydraulic splitter) of worth of burnable firewood to process. With the 95+* days and my recent 50+ hr work weeks (sitting on my ass!), I currently feel no motivation for outdoor stuff except to swim/lounge in a river, creek, or lake or go on a cool night run with the dog.