I’m running Xtr levers with MT7 calipers and the magura rotors. Most power brakes I’ve used. Way more power than the stock mt7 levers. Regular shimano fluid works just as well as magura blood tooQuote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
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I’m running Xtr levers with MT7 calipers and the magura rotors. Most power brakes I’ve used. Way more power than the stock mt7 levers. Regular shimano fluid works just as well as magura blood tooQuote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
Find a shop with Shimano SP41 Housing, or buy a 10m spool online somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
The Shimano Optislick cables or at least a slick stainless cable.
Then be real gentle with the housing cover. I had same issue as SnowAddict with a dropper 2 weeks ago.
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Do you get the Shimano wandering bite point?Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
Not at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by XtrPickels
Yes…. In theory… in reality I’ve had nothing but pain.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
I feel I need to sacrifice an entire bottle of royal blood for the amount of pain they have caused, haha.
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No, not white lithium.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/complian...08-ENG-GHS.pdf
It’s a silicone base oil, not petroleum distillate base. But it is thickened with lithium soap. Also contains PTFE.
Silicone is usually used instead of petroleum if damaging plastic is a concern.
Do they not use the electric green stuff anymore? That shit was cool.
They do, but it’s not cable grease.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
May actually be Motorex FETT 2000, which they also sell as Motorex bike grease. Not positive, but Motorex and Shimano are both fluorescent yellow calcium grease, and Shimano wouldn’t be making it themselves (listed as made in Germany).
I know they use it on derailluers and springs, but I recall it coming out of the end of a 41 cable when I ran one on the poly coated cables once. I forget what else it was used for, maybe shifter gears?
What he said (although I prefer the Shimano Polymer Coated cables ((XTR)) to the Optislick) and then that cable grease shown above.Quote:
Originally Posted by joetron
The grease really works well with the polymer cables as it gets in all the little "hairs" of the cable.
Also, use good aluminum or bronze housing ferrules, not the Shimano plastic.
Just fucking start a cable queso thread already. Fuck.
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It's time for me to replace rotors anyway, so I'm thinking of going from 180mm to 203mm for a little less fade and more power on long descents. Fork is Fox 36 and brakes are Guide RSC. What adapter do I need? Seems like there are a ton of options and I want to make sure I get it right.
You'll just need a 23mm post mount adaptor.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
I’m sorry you had to endure the trauma of witnessing 5+ posts discussing grease. I hope you’re able to make a full recovery and get back riding in the near future.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
Easy enough. And now that I'm looking maybe 200mm is more common? Also seems like most of the SRAM adapters are 20mm instead of 23mm. Is 200mm what I want?Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
20mm post adaptor for a 200 rotor, 23mm for 203. 203 are shimano rotors, SRAM rotors run 200/220. rotors are fairly cross compatible, but I prefer to stick on brand for less headaches. I might have one for you, let me check and send you a text if so.
Thanks! And yes, I really am this dumb about bikes sometimes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phall
Most 20mm adapters come with some washers that make them work just fine for 23mm. You only need 1,5mm of washers.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Works fine for me, but maybe I’ll die
Yeah, sharing knowledge sucks, just ask DeSantis!Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
So you're saying the 20mm adapter is actually 10mm? :fmicon:Quote:
Originally Posted by sf
So, I went and measured - just beacuse. And the Shimano adapter I had on the bench is 10mm on one side and 8-9mm on the other side.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
This I don’t understand
If you're going from a 180mm *dia* rotor to a 200mm *dia* rotor, the *radius* increase is 10mm. Actual post height changes will be a little bit different than the radius change due to posts not being exactly centered around the axle.
Of course, one being further away etc. Probably should have seen that myself. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
you could figure it out with math but you would need to be one them folks that call them maths
extra points for doing it in your head
Any of you nerds know how to find the Cane Creek or better equivalents for these bearings? My headset sounded like it had rocks in it this weekend.
Upper bearing: FSA MR122
Lower bearing: FSA MR127