Official ATK Binding Thread

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Originally Posted by miketheskier

I got some touring boots but had to swap out the gripwalk soles for alpine soles because I got ski setups with bindings that are like a decade old. Does anyone know if ATK bindings will still let me release properly with the alpine soles? Or do I need to replace the soles on my boots again? I fired them an email but haven't heard back yet.

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Ehh, do you have tech fittings on said alpine soles?

Have some Kuluar 12 LT’s coming. I’ll do will do a direct comparison to the FR14. Elastic travel and two riser heights without turning the heel was what steered me there. Good weight saving over the FR14 and not a huge amount heavier than the Trofeo.

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Originally Posted by waxoff

Ehh, do you have tech fittings on said alpine soles?

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I really don't know but hopefully one of these pictures help. I assume yes because the heel has slits in it? Pictures below, appreciate any help 🙏🏼

Attachment 441175
Attachment 441176
Attachment 441177

^^^Yeah, if they're in good shape you should be good to go.

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Originally Posted by miketheskier

I got some touring boots but had to swap out the gripwalk soles for alpine soles because I got ski setups with bindings that are like a decade old. Does anyone know if ATK bindings will still let me release properly with the alpine soles? Or do I need to replace the soles on my boots again? I fired them an email but haven't heard back yet.

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The only problem I can see (with any tech binding) is that you might have to manually engage the toe when clicking in.

... Thom

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Originally Posted by CaliBrit

Have some Kuluar 12 LT’s coming. I’ll do will do a direct comparison to the FR14. Elastic travel and two riser heights without turning the heel was what steered me there. Good weight saving over the FR14 and not a huge amount heavier than the Trofeo.

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Looking forward to this comparison.

I too am becoming Kuluar curious.

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Originally Posted by Lord Thomas

I too am becoming Kuluar curious.

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The only reason to get the Kuluar is if you need a high lateral release value. The Kuluar 12 uses the same heel spring as the 10 release Trofeo, but it does have lateral release up to 12. They only weigh like 20 grams less than the Crest which can often be found at a similar price, and offers the Cam system which I think is worth a few extra bucks and grams if you're looking at these bindings. The Cam system allows more precise release adjustment and more consistent vertical release.

Actually, the Kuluar heelpiece adds flex compensation. But less BSL adjustment than Trofeo + plate.

Quick shoutout and thanks to Spyderjon. He set me up with some FR14s, all the accessories, and super fast shipping for an excellent price. Throwing these on some Faction La Machines... hoping I've nailed the ultra-fat, "lightweight", Hokkaido touring setup.

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Originally Posted by Benneke10

The only reason to get the Kuluar is if you need a high lateral release value. The Kuluar 12 uses the same heel spring as the 10 release Trofeo, but it does have lateral release up to 12. They only weigh like 20 grams less than the Crest which can often be found at a similar price, and offers the Cam system which I think is worth a few extra bucks and grams if you're looking at these bindings. The Cam system allows more precise release adjustment and more consistent vertical release.

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Not true.

Crest is flat or high, or rotate heel for medium.

Which is a ball ache if you spend you whole uphill in medium/high.

Agree cam system is great.

Weight difference is more than 20g too.

Well I messed up by not doing my research properly.
Bought C-raiders and AL12 toe shims. Apparently they don’t play nicely together. I think the shims are only meant for the raider/freeraider since they don’t match the C-raider toe plate shape particularly well and come with fairly short flat head screws not pan heads. Oops!

Sure you can flip the toe shims easy here

Well yeah probably, but that doesn’t help reduce ramp on the c-raiders though. Should have just bought regular raiders.

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Originally Posted by dcpnz

Well yeah probably, but that doesn’t help reduce ramp on the c-raiders though. Should have just bought regular raiders.

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Still can!

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Originally Posted by CaliBrit

Not true.

Crest is flat or high, or rotate heel for medium.

Which is a ball ache if you spend you whole uphill in medium/high.

Agree cam system is great.

Weight difference is more than 20g too.

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Rotating (pins rearward) gets you only a few mm higher than forward/flap over pins. Think of this as medium and medium plus a little. Its by no means high.

It might make a difference to some, but the main reason for rotating them (pins to the rear) is if you're on rolling terrain and need flat mode.

... Thom

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Originally Posted by dcpnz

Well I messed up by not doing my research properly.
Bought C-raiders and AL12 toe shims. Apparently they don’t play nicely together. I think the shims are only meant for the raider/freeraider since they don’t match the C-raider toe plate shape particularly well and come with fairly short flat head screws not pan heads. Oops!

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Raider toe shim works just fine on the C-Raider.

How do I know? I'm using it. Installed a week ago. Take a minute with a Dremel or belt sander to remove that lip. The shape/hole pattern is fine. It will reduce your ramp by ~4mm, so about 6mm instead of 10.

(

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Originally Posted by upallnight

Raider toe shim works just fine on the C-Raider.

How do I know? I'm using it. Installed a week ago. Take a minute with a Dremel or belt sander to remove that lip. The shape/hole pattern is fine. It will reduce your ramp by ~4mm, so about 6mm instead of 10.

(

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Will be curious how it holds up for you.
Yeah the holes line up but the extended piece below the locking lever is left unsupported.
And what did you do for screws?
Did you source some longer pan heads or just use the flat heads that came with the shim even though they’re too short?

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Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un

Rotating (pins rearward) gets you only a few mm higher than forward/flap over pins. Think of this as medium and medium plus a little. Its by no means high.

It might make a difference to some, but the main reason for rotating them (pins to the rear) is if you're on rolling terrain and need flat mode.

... Thom

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Guess that’s my point. Hence….kuluar.

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Originally Posted by dcpnz

Will be curious how it holds up for you.
Yeah the holes line up but the extended piece below the locking lever is left unsupported.

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what do you think will happen? what is the real concern there? that the binding will open up? that the plate (or binding somehow) will break?

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Originally Posted by dcpnz

And what did you do for screws?
Did you source some longer pan heads or just use the flat heads that came with the shim even though they’re too short?

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I used 18mm (i.e. +4-5mm) pozidrive screws.

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Originally Posted by upallnight

what do you think will happen? what is the real concern there? that the binding will open up? that the plate (or binding somehow) will break?
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That piece of carbon polymer is normally supported by the ski and now its hanging 4mm up in the air so yeah presumably much more prone to breaking when you lock the toe.

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Originally Posted by CaliBrit

Guess that’s my point. Hence….kuluar.

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You said the Crest has low, medium, and high riser positions, and those expecting this will be sorely disappointed. But yes, riser positions for Crest/Kuluar are similar (same?).

Did we cover that the Kuluar is a U-spring heel design with no adjustable vertical release?

Again, it's a consideration for some, and shouldn't be glossed over.

... Thom

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Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un

You said the Crest has low, medium, and high riser positions, and those expecting this will be sorely disappointed. But yes, riser positions for Crest/Kuluar are similar (same?).

Did we cover that the Kuluar is a U-spring heel design with no adjustable vertical release?

Again, it's a consideration for some, and shouldn't be glossed over.

... Thom

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The point I’m making is this. Without turning the heel.

Crest: Flat and whatever the fuck you want to call it.

Kuluar: Medium and high.

Turning the heels gets you other things. Flat for Kuluar and a different riser heigh for the Crest.

For me. Where I tour. Medium and high without turning is what I’m looking for. Happy to turn the heel for flat on the slim occasion I’m in rolling terrain.

I have some vague recollection of reading somewhere that newer Freeraider 14s were shipping with the toe shim to essentially match the Voyager ramp, but now I can't find it. Is that the case or am I losing my mind?

The FR16's ship with the shims included. I don't think the lower release value Freeraider bindings come with the shims when you buy the ATK-branded ones.

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Originally Posted by Benneke10

The FR16's ship with the shims included. I don't think the lower release value Freeraider bindings come with the shims when you buy the ATK-branded ones.

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Thanks. But also damn, I was hoping for the other answer.

I have a NIB ATK Race Brake (70mm) for sale if anyone needs one. $65 shipped.

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Originally Posted by HAB

I have some vague recollection of reading somewhere that newer Freeraider 14s were shipping with the toe shim to essentially match the Voyager ramp, but now I can't find it. Is that the case or am I losing my mind?

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14s do ship with the freeride spacer included though

ATK needs a comparison chart...

What does everyone recommend for:
107mm waist ski being used moderately
145lb expert skier
No brakes
Lighter is nice
Don't need a crazy high lifter, but something a bit higher than the Trofeo.
Some boot adjustability
Freeride spacer sounds nice, but do I really need it?

I was all set to buy the Salomon MTN, but then started reading reviews about loose lifters and I don't really want to deal with that.

https://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/at...specifications

Doesn't include the new Evos but sounds like you're not considering those

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Originally Posted by funkendrenchman

ATK needs a comparison chart...

What does everyone recommend for:
107mm waist ski being used moderately
145lb expert skier
No brakes
Lighter is nice
Don't need a crazy high lifter, but something a bit higher than the Trofeo.
Some boot adjustability
Freeride spacer sounds nice, but do I really need it?

I was all set to buy the Salomon MTN, but then started reading reviews about loose lifters and I don't really want to deal with that.

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Originally Posted by Pins and Skins

https://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/at...specifications

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hadn't seen that before. Thanks

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Originally Posted by funkendrenchman

ATK needs a comparison chart...

What does everyone recommend for:
107mm waist ski being used moderately
145lb expert skier
No brakes
Lighter is nice
Don't need a crazy high lifter, but something a bit higher than the Trofeo.
Some boot adjustability
Freeride spacer sounds nice, but do I really need it?

I was all set to buy the Salomon MTN, but then started reading reviews about loose lifters and I don't really want to deal with that.

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After my troubles with atk toes on wider skins(arm pivot pins coming out, occasional prerelease on hard snow) and the loose, self flopping MTN lifters, I’ve migrated to a Plum Oazo. Very pleased so far. Beefier toe, some adjustments, two lifter choices and flat with a 90 degree turn. 200 grams per binding. Maybe heresy in the ATK thread, but i had to say it.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

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Originally Posted by riff

After my troubles with atk toes on wider skins(arm pivot pins coming out, occasional prerelease on hard snow) and the loose, self flopping MTN lifters, I’ve migrated to a Plum Oazo. Very pleased so far. Beefier toe, some adjustments, two lifter choices and flat with a 90 degree turn. 200 grams per binding. Maybe heresy in the ATK thread, but i had to say it.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

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Looks a lot like the Kuluar without the length elasticity.

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Originally Posted by funkendrenchman

ATK needs a comparison chart...

What does everyone recommend for:
107mm waist ski being used moderately
145lb expert skier
No brakes
Lighter is nice
Don't need a crazy high lifter, but something a bit higher than the Trofeo.
Some boot adjustability
Freeride spacer sounds nice, but do I really need it?

I was all set to buy the Salomon MTN, but then started reading reviews about loose lifters and I don't really want to deal with that.

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Haute Route, or crest with brakes removed.

I have trofeos on a 108 waist ski and they have been fine, but I'm probably going to switch out the heel with a haute route heel. I just hate having to turn it to go between flat and climbing.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I can vouch for the Crest without brakes. I'm also light and ski it at 6. I like the spring loaded heel and BSL adjustment. I wish the high rise was a bit higher.

FWIW I had Salomon MTN on my previous skis (still in use by Ms CE), and the risers are still tight. It's not quite as refined as the ATK, but it's a perfectly serviceable binding. Flat, med, or high without a heel rotation is pretty nice.

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Originally Posted by climberevan

I can vouch for the Crest without brakes. I'm also light and ski it at 6. I like the spring loaded heel and BSL adjustment. I wish the high rise was a bit higher.

FWIW I had Salomon MTN on my previous skis (still in use by Ms CE), and the risers are still tight. It's not quite as refined as the ATK, but it's a perfectly serviceable binding. Flat, med, or high without a heel rotation is pretty nice.

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I do like flat being available without an extra turn. Do you need a brake cover when you remove the brake or is it just recommended?

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Originally Posted by funkendrenchman

I do like flat being available without an extra turn. Do you need a brake cover when you remove the brake or is it just recommended?

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Not necessary but prob reduces snow packing

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Originally Posted by Westcoaster

Not necessary but prob reduces snow packing

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I certainly didn't ever consider it, but snow packing is a problem just like on every other binding I've ever used. Maybe they have a magic pad that snow can't stick to.

Brakes on the Freeraider 14.... removal and installation can be done without removing the binding, correct? Anything else to know if I want to remove them?

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Originally Posted by funkendrenchman

Brakes on the Freeraider 14.... removal and installation can be done without removing the binding, correct? Anything else to know if I want to remove them?

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Yup. It's just the three little torx screws around the brake unit.

The brake release button and the spring that backs it are going to fall out when you take the brake off, but it's easy to reassemble.