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the swell continues............
thigh/waist low tide fun in the protection of nubble this am. lots o north winds the past week have made york the place of choice.
tomorrow looks like some friendly winds for most spots. question is, how much swell will be in the water? thursday/friday looks to be head/head and a half with perfect winds with short boardable surf until then. 13 out of 17 days of surf this month so far. dig it.
rog
choppy stormy windy on this coast his week
but.....winter snow advisory posted in the mtns.
so we got that going for us.
bobby
Actually, today is pretty nice up the coast. Oh well, enjoying my time with little guy. At least I have a 1 hour sunset window tomorrow and tuesday to try out the new board. Not like I would be on it today. Pretty sure I would be choosing the step up or mini gun at scotts zone. Running 13.5@14 from 310 right now. Best estimate puts it in the 14-18' face range up there. Yum. I'll get the full report from my buddy later. He was talking of walking north, but did not mention the shoe, so, he must be a wuss. I bet mavs is moving at the low tide. But, while that would be nice, I just baked a pumpkin pie and am about to go clean a bathroom, so yeah, I'm having a good time anyway.
dude i dig your little santa cruz blog/report, esp. the fact you recognize the pnw. lived in soquel as a youngster and surfed and frolicked steamers lane area.
bobby
Yesterday was super fun around here, but went out a bit too late. Thought I could sneak in a good hour of surf before the tide swamped it, but really only had a couple good waves before they just stopped breaking. This was at Terramar.
I did actually drive down to D Street to check out the waves there, and a little further south like Piggity was saying. Had both boards and would've taken my shorter one in but it seemed pretty sectiony and crowded (this is at 9 or so), so drove back up a bit further north where there were no crowds. In short, I should've just gone out at Terramar right away, or went out anywhere earlier on.
I had plans to go back out once the tide backed off in the afternoon but had too many mimosas at brunch. Fail
Did you surf that madness? Sounds pretty insane, be safe...Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
Looks like the OC - San Diego area will be getting some swell later this week & into the holiday weekend, and with no snow in the forecast I think I will make the trek down south to get my gills wet and some Trestles love.
skied today, no surfing. swell dropped a bit too much to keep me around. tomorrow through the weekend looks good tho.
hope you guys get some!!!!^^^^^^^^^^^^
rog
fun morning, and based on buoy better than expected. took the dog to the beach to kill 2 birds. glad i brought my stuff. nice clean waist high waves coming through at the right tide despite local reports calling for knee high.
was the 1st to paddle out at 9am then joined by the only other guy i regularly see there. waves had good shape and just snuff punch for rail to rail fun.
ah, off to work:)
rog
Sorry mang, it's finicky but your question was about high tide spots and D street is definitely a high tide spot, but it is also sections since it's a beach break. Did you look a couple hundred yards south or just in front? Walk about 3++ blocks south and the crowds get thinner with a little reef as you get closer to B*yards and swamis. You can also drive 5 minutes south and check Pipes if D street isn't working since that is generally a softer and more mellow wave. For reference on crowds, D street's worst day is minor compared to the pack sitting on the peak at blacks on an average dayQuote:
Originally Posted by jtran10
Got back last night from 2 days in the snow, now about to catch a few small nugs rolling through.
Not your fault at all! Had the GF with me, which changes things up for me a bit. We didn't actually head down the steps to the beach, but looking further down south it was much less crowded. Guess I'm just used to a bit less size and a lot less crowds. When there's 10 people out at Terramar on a good day that's a crowd up here. Just need to reset expectations. Glad you got some snow. We were gonna head up Saturday afternoon for a Sunday ski day, back Sunday night, but decided to save the money for later season storms. Upper mountain closed with limited terrain kinda scared me away too, but I'm sure it really wasn't that bad away from the main lodge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Piggity
This NW swell coming in looks like it'll be big. Unfortunately (but not really) heading up to SF until Sunday morning. Sounds like on Thursday it'll be double overhead up there. Any beta on good spots to watch some waves from that the GF would enjoy too? There's a break right near the GG Bridge, right?
Cool, didn't want to steer you wrong. My usual rule of thumb is to surf local if it looks good, if not then check other spots.
Surf right now is ok. Some shoulder+ sets with the incoming tide, slight cross wind putting a light texture on it. Got my best turns in on the closeout section as it was hitting the sandbar, felt fun. Got word the new board is ready, stoked.
Thanks bobby. I started it a an email to fellow chefs who never paid any attention to the weather and would plan corporate bows for lunch right through December. A few go rained out, and I was shocked they had no idea. When I left that job my former boss set up the blog and I've been playing with it ever since. I have friend in the PNW, and loved Xtal when I went, so I always have an eye up there.
1) no. Had my son with me all day. At 18 months, he is only out paddling on flat days. Okay, so that has happened once, but I was stokedQuote:
Originally Posted by PowerWhore7
2) oddly, or not so oddly, buoy are deceiving. Bad reason is my guess, but my buddies report puts it at 8 foot plus. About the same size that the 8@12 showed a week back. From talking to a few folks it was pretty jumbled, an that can kill or build swell. I think it killed this one.
Been a number of years since I've been out in 15 foot plus. A good bunch of 10 foot days, and a handful of 12. A few bigger. But I think it has been a decade since I saw 20 foot plus. Kin of got back into loving big waves a few years ago, and look forward to some 18-20' clean waves, but they are hard to find. Guys like Supu charge and get on it, but I have a hard time with windows these days. But I do try to stay in training. IMO, one big well lined up wave is better than weeks and months I sub head high surf. Just need one. But you need to be on it as often a possible to keep the shoulders and lungs in shape.
Finally tried the new board last night in head high plus jumbled warbled ledging right handers. Want more fin than the AM. Or weaker surf. Might get out tonight at more of te same, with less juice. Have vector EA in now. Catches waves easy and super loose.
Shit. Just looked out at ocean. Looks bumpy... Maybe I go ski instead
Fuck me, I just sat in traffic for two hours getting through LA after already driving 5 hours from June this morning. There better be some god damn waves this week (sorry for the language & rant but...SoCal).
Surfline is calling for some NW-WNW (285-300) + SSW (190-200) love for the SoCal area over the holiday, should be a peaky, bowly shitshow at all the popular breaks. Hopefully it gets overhead and the size will sort out the shitshow quick like.
sounds terrible. you coulda flown here and surfed head+ uncrowded starting tomorrow into sunday with no traffic and early season skiing just barely 2 hours away. did i say no traffic?:biggrin:Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerWhore7
rog
will he be able to get gas?
happy holidays surfmags, go get some today:biggrin:
LA traffic is the suck but 80* weather would be nice.
hope its kosher to pop in here every so often?
bobby
late in reporting, but this morning was fun maine. solid head to a coupla feet ohead with the buoy reading 7.5ft @ 10/11 seconds. forgot how much easier head+ is to surf than waist-.
easier in, no speed generating needed. no effort.
north winds had no ill effect on north longsands, just a few folks out as well.
buoy is now at 8+ feet @ 10/11 seconds with winds going light offshore. just enough size to keep the longboarders/noobies on the beach break shore:)
will be on it early, happy t day y'all!!!
rog
Sounds good in the old homeland. Get sum
this morning was REALLY good. my 9th day out of 11. 16 surf days this month so far with 4 more good ones stacked up ahead. the 2 days i missed were small/junky but were fun ski days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
longsands again. head/ohead and cleaner/better lined up than yesterday. really pretty. most folks were surfing far north end, but i hung just south in front of the bath house where there seemed to be a bit more size and only 1 or 2 guys kinda near me. had a couple stellar right ohead set waves that yielded beautiful drops and big sweeping t2b carve turns. that 5'8 kechele set up thruster was fantastic. carve on a dime and short enough to really snap tight arcs when the wave stood up well.
may head back out this afternoon for the lower tide. tomorrow is looking REALLY good again, and the weekend will still be in the chest high range with the best winds for everywhere.
quite the fall we've been having. maybe a 100 sessions between late august and winters beginning? getting very close:)
rog
my math wuz wrong. 11 out of 13^^^^. this morning i decided on a high tide beach break in new hampshire due to the 1st south winds entering the picture in the past 2 weeks. a break that i am VERY familiar with. FKNA. chest/head aframed lefts/rights with very few folks out due to the fog. total viz tho once past the inner crumblers. some of the lefts were blowing the mind. perfect paced waves, no speed adjustments, just t2b rail 2 rail perfection.
after 2 weeks of wonderful swell, the winds get stupid good for everywhere starting tomorrow before 1st light. should be at least waist/chest with straight offshores both tomorrow and sunday, with fun leftovers monday.
quite the run:D
rog
I must apologize for ranting about SoCal & blaspheming the sacred city of San Clemente and it’s many superb surf breaks. I sit here with sore spaghetti like arms, pulled muscles in my back & reef cuts on my feet - but all for the visions & memories of dark, sandy barrels and overhead, clean reeling surf for the past 3 days.
The crowds weren’t bad at all (except Lowers) the surf was super clean and had some decent energy behind it. Not having surfed in over a month I mostly surfed the 9fter, but every-time I took a wave away from some 5’6” rocket quad dude I pretended it was Rog and it turned into a fun little game :biggrin:
Some shitty pics of Trestles from the 5...
Middles
http://imageshack.us/a/img580/3442/dsc07562s.jpg
Lowers
http://imageshack.us/a/img24/6613/dsc07560jy.jpg
That stretch of coast can be pretty fun. You sound like a Californian calling it the 5. I thought you were a Jersey boy.
Been up in the mountains with family. Good times despite the rained upon snow surface and the great surf conditions down on the coast. Glad someone is scoring this good swell and weather.
Turkey week has been fun. Caught some fresh snow last Sun/Mon then drove home and caught some surf on Wed pm and Thursday AM, then turns on Friday and yesterday. Thinking about surfing today but my knees, quads and back are screaming hell no
^^^how is Mammy skiing? Mostly firm from the rain up our way. Still fun, especially once the crust got beat down. Have a few windows to surf the next two days. Nothing special expected, but surf none the less.
HA-ha, when I first moved here I called it Route 5 but I guess I have become a product of my environment :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
Fast & firm, but it looks like some serious dumpage is on the way. It doesn’t look too good for you guys but I have my fingers crossed that somewhere in this storm cycle is the cold air needed to drop those snow levels for Tahoe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
I'm not too worried about Tahoe. I like to stay high. Up high.
I would have though you called it "fucking route 5" when you were fresh from the north east. Coming from Maine I was callin it. "faaaaaaackkkin rouuuute fiiiiivvve, ayut.". Now I just call it Pure Hell.