Ask the experts

I should have my fork issue behind me in a couple days on the Gnarvana thanks to maggot power!

There really isn't a one bike quiver as we all know unless you only do one kind of riding. I definitely need a shorter travel or at least lighter build bike for everyday/fitness rides/riding with the GF etc. The SB120 was super fun, but almost too XC. I definitely overworked the 34 on a lot of the trails around here. I could crush the uphills on it, but on anything with sustained downhill or good amount of rocks I definitely had to dial back my speed quite a bit. I see why a 130/150 bike with no inserts and an airshock might just be the ticket. It will still feel very light on the uphill compared to my GG hog, but sounds more than capable on the down. If Rhys is getting the podium on a Druid then us mere mortals will not be able to take it to it's limits very easily if at all.

Anyone ever have a OneUp EDC tool start to rattle? I've had one (steer tube, threaded mount) for about 18 months now. Recently started chasing down a rattle on my bike, thought it was finned XT metal brake pads, headset, internal cable routing but nope, the multitool in my EDC is ratting within the carrier. If I take the EDC out and put in my pocket, noise stops. If I shake the EDC I can hear the allen keys/tools rattling against each other. It was definitely silent before, not sure how it's developed play. Going to email OneUp but thought I'd ask here in case I'm missing something obious.

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Originally Posted by gramboh

Anyone ever have a OneUp EDC tool start to rattle? I've had one (steer tube, threaded mount) for about 18 months now. Recently started chasing down a rattle on my bike, thought it was finned XT metal brake pads, headset, internal cable routing but nope, the multitool in my EDC is ratting within the carrier. If I take the EDC out and put in my pocket, noise stops. If I shake the EDC I can hear the allen keys/tools rattling against each other. It was definitely silent before, not sure how it's developed play. Going to email OneUp but thought I'd ask here in case I'm missing something obious.

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Check the bottom plug. I've had that slide down over time and stop doing it's job (keep the tool from rattling against the steerer tube).

I've also had the multi-tool rattle in the pump style. I tightened it up (too much first time) and all was good.

Yep, try tightening up the ‘axles’ of the multi tool and see if its individual tools or the whole unit.


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Originally Posted by joetron

Yep, try tightening up the ‘axles’ of the multi tool and see if its individual tools or the whole unit.


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Thanks guys, it was this. Didn't realize the axles were threaded... and yeah, cranked them down then realized that prevents the tools from rotating on the axle so backed it off a bit and viola no more noise.

Okay next question regarding my gravel bike, the frame is one size too big and Specialized still haven’t released frame-sets for this season. When they do, I’ll be downsizing to a 54. The bike is very rideable for me as a 56, I shortened the stem from a 100 to a 90, but it’s just not exactly perfect. My question is related to the setback seat post, if I were to replace it with a zero setback post what benefit would that afford me, if any?

Seat position fore-aft should not really be used to adjust reach. Ideally you find your preferred position WRT the BB so that you are balanced and so that you produce the most power. THEN you put your bars where they need to be to achieve the right reach and drop by getting a frame with the right reach and using the right stem length. Stem length also affects handling, of course, so you don't want to the all extreme trying to force a frame to "fit".

So whether you need a zero setback post to do the above depends on seat tube angle rather than frame size. If your preferred position is really far forward you might need one.

You're aware that there are frame manufacturers other than Special-Ed, yes? Some of them likely even have 54s available.

If you’ve ridden a Crux, it’s kinda hard to look at other frames, they really are that good. If Santa Cruz releases the new Stigmata soon, I might check that out, I can get a deal on Santa Cruz, ski shop is a dealer. Thoughts on Stigmata’s?

Carbon bars... are they worth it?

Currently running the stock Specialized Trail 7050 alu bars (800mm/35). Can't find the weight anywhere online, the closest I've found is a review for a 780mm/31.8 bar that supposedly weights 365g.

I'd like to shave some weight but understand it probably won't be anything crazy, more interested in the ride quality and damping.


Specifically looking at Deity Speedway FWIW.


ETA: Deity Speedway spec'd at 245g, so if my current bars are anywhere near 365g that's actually more significant than I thought.

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Originally Posted by east or bust

Carbon bars... are they worth it?

Currently running the stock Specialized Trail 7050 alu bars (800mm/35). Can't find the weight anywhere online, the closest I've found is a review for a 780mm/31.8 bar that supposedly weights 365g.

I'd like to shave some weight but understand it probably won't be anything crazy, more interested in the ride quality and damping.


Specifically looking at Deity Speedway FWIW.


ETA: Deity Speedway spec'd at 245g, so if my current bars are anywhere near 365g that's actually more significant than I thought.

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To me it's more about feel than weight, yeah 120g is nice and the $/g isn't bad compared to other stuff. Some bars I've used are really stuff, Race Face SIXC 35mm for example. Have been using a Renthal Fatbar carbon 35mm for a few years now (came with a previous bike) and like the overall balance, stiff but forgiving enough I don't beat up my hands. If I was buying a bar today I would be looking at the OneUp, lots of friends have them and rave about the feel. I have found 35mm aluminum bars in the past (Race Face Turbine/Atlas) are uncomfortable on long descents, compared to 31.8mm bars. No experience with the Deity.

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Originally Posted by east or bust

Carbon bars... are they worth it?

Currently running the stock Specialized Trail 7050 alu bars (800mm/35). Can't find the weight anywhere online, the closest I've found is a review for a 780mm/31.8 bar that supposedly weights 365g.

I'd like to shave some weight but understand it probably won't be anything crazy, more interested in the ride quality and damping.


Specifically looking at Deity Speedway FWIW.


ETA: Deity Speedway spec'd at 245g, so if my current bars are anywhere near 365g that's actually more significant than I thought.

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I read a Loam Wolf review recently where they said Deity carbon bars were the harshest they'd tried.

I've run RF SixC and Turbine R bars in the past, and they were uncomfortably stiff. I've been running OneUps ever since with no discomfort. I recently tried Renthal Fatbar Lite Carbon 35s, and again, very painful on the outside edge of my hands.

Just get OneUps if you already are running 35 and want carbon. Hard to go wrong with them.

Broken record time: unless they are doing a blind test and controlling every other variable (especially tire pressure and terrain) perfectly, comparisons of bat stiffness are worthless. Just get the lightest ones you want to pay for.

At any given time you’ll find good offers and good reviews on the Nukeproof Horizon bars. I’m happy with mine

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Originally Posted by climberevan

Broken record time: unless they are doing a blind test and controlling every other variable (especially tire pressure and terrain) perfectly, comparisons of bat stiffness are worthless. Just get the lightest ones you want to pay for.

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But most of us do exactly that. We ride the same trails, at the same ballpark pressures.

Going from stock generic AL to One-up carbon feels like maybe a 10-15% improvement in terms of forearm pump and hand fatigue on generic tech trails. Noticeable kinda, would buy again, but it's not a life-changing difference.

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Originally Posted by Huskydoc

But most of us do exactly that. We ride the same trails, at the same ballpark pressures.

Going from stock generic AL to One-up carbon feels like maybe a 10-15% improvement in terms of forearm pump and hand fatigue on generic tech trails. Noticeable kinda, would buy again, but it's not a life-changing difference.

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Yup. Doesn't need to be blind if you're riding the same trail you've ridden several hundred times before, with the same suspension settings, grips, width, cockpit setup. 2 rides on the Renthals and my hands hurt like shit both times. Switched back to OneUp next ride, and hand pain was gone. I even *wanted* the Renthals to work, because I liked the 7* sweep better.

That said, there is a YouTube video out there (I think it was Biker's Edge), where the guy bought 2 identical Renthal bars, one AL 35, one carbon 35. Same rise, cut to same length. He had his buddy install them on his bike and wrap them in tape so he couldn't see them at all. Did back to back laps, had buddy switch bars. He found the ALs to be harsher.

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Originally Posted by Andeh

Just get OneUps if you already are running 35 and want carbon. Hard to go wrong with them.

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What he said

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Originally Posted by gramboh

Thanks guys, it was this. Didn't realize the axles were threaded... and yeah, cranked them down then realized that prevents the tools from rotating on the axle so backed it off a bit and viola no more noise.

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Mine still rattled after the axles were tight. I solved it by tightening the fit of the parts than snap in together with sticky back velcro pieces. It’s been silent since.

A pine closet rod feels better than an AL 35mm bar…. I can’t believe the bike industry continues to spec ‘em…


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A pine closet rod feels better than an AL 35mm bar…. I can’t believe the bike industry continues to spec ‘em…


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Originally Posted by climberevan

Seat position fore-aft should not really be used to adjust reach. Ideally you find your preferred position WRT the BB so that you are balanced and so that you produce the most power. THEN you put your bars where they need to be to achieve the right reach and drop by getting a frame with the right reach and using the right stem length. Stem length also affects handling, of course, so you don't want to the all extreme trying to force a frame to "fit".

So whether you need a zero setback post to do the above depends on seat tube angle rather than frame size. If your preferred position is really far forward you might need one.

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I'll echo this advice. It's relatively easy to find if you're in the ballpark using a Knee over Pedal Spindle positioning. It was in-vogue for a while to crap on this - around the time that people discovered steeper seat-tube angles for triathlon - but I think it still holds merit for "normal" bikes being ridden in a variety of terrain. So, while I will not advocate that this is the end-all-be-all, in this case I think it's useful to see if a Setback or Zero offset seat post is best.

1. Set Bike in Trainer
2. Level Bike (using a level between front and rear axles works well.
3. Find a Friend
4. Sit on saddle in comfortable position
5. Have friend make sure your are sitting with the crank arms level (at 3 and 9)
6. Have Friend drop a plumb bob from the bony protrusion on the tibia (shin) just below your knee cap - not the knee cap itself
7. The plumb bob should fall to the inside if your foot with the string passing by the pedal spindle
8. Have friend observe if the string is in front of, lightly touching the pedal spindle, or distinctly pressing on it.
9. Adjust saddle forward or backward until the string is lightly grazing the front of the pedal spindle
10. Repeat process for other side
11. If the opposite side is drastically different positioning, contemplate why you're sitting crooked on the saddle
12. Crack open a beer, chug
13. Give up and go for a ride.

If you are unable to achieve the proper position with your current seatpost - or your saddle is slammed completely forward on the rails, then a zero-offset is likely beneficial. Once this is set, I would then adjust the cockpit as needed. It wouldn't be uncommon to come down to an 80 or 70mm stem or to use a shorter reach handlebar.

I got to chatting with a guy at the top of a climb about bike parts yesterday. Claims his I9 hydras, and hub upgrades more generally, accomplish a huge improvement in one's experience. I'm... Still a little skeptical. What am I buying exactly? More precise ratcheting? Longer service intervals? Does higher POE correlate with a proportionally better experience?

You're buying a dream of where you are faster than you would be without spending money.

I’m a big fan of high engagement hubs. Especially for more technical riding. I’m not a fan of the i9’s tho. When I tested them they felt slow riding. I’m a really big fan of the DTSwiss 240s with the high engagement star ratchet. Plus they are one of the most durable longest lasting hubs on the market and dead simple to maintain

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Originally Posted by simple

You're buying a dream of where you are faster than you would be without spending money.

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This, exactly.